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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 6, 2010 - 10:06pm PT
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The Gunks, a memoir
I have an incomplete memory of the climbs I did in the 'Gunks, from about 1980 we climbed in the summer and fall whenever we could get away from our studies as graduate students, and later as post docs and eventually professor. The most recent date noted in my guidebook is 2000; I wish it hadn't been that long but it has.
The climbs I did there are certainly not the harder grades, though the 'Gunks grading has a fearsome reputation. I always attributed that to the rather unique style of climbing demanded by the topography, inverted steps, and of the type of rock: Shawangunk conglomerate, and maybe the heat and humidity of the summers but surely the length of the strength sapping winters at a time when there were no climbing gyms.
While Yosemite is a sacred place to me, the 'Gunks seem homey, a beloved place with very fond memories. Though a place where important lessons were learned and cat-lives lost. If you have never climbed there I am sorry for you, that place, like many others, has changed over the intervening decades and a bit of those times will never return.
SuperTopo does tend to be very west-coast centric, but at least there are climbers of note in the 'Gunks' history which post here regularly: John Stanard and Richard Goldstone. I would think about posting this over on the local 'Gunks site, but there are more than one and I never know which one is "the real one." Besides, this is my "internet" home for climbing, more or less... except when I'm climbing and posting on the Wyde Side.
I was not a part of the "climbing scene" of that era, either, as we tended to be weekenders, and often only day trippers. But even for that, it was a place I climbed that made me a better climber.
My partner on this climb is still a close friend, then a fellow graduate student of physics at Columbia U. Here he starts his lead on V-3 5.7. Somehow this is not notated in my guide until 1984, yet we must have done it in 1980, here are the pictures! mixed in with others dating to that year.
The rack is a set of Chouinard Stoppers and a set of Chouinard Hexes, some tied slings and a bunch of 'biners. Mike is wearing his EBs, I don't remember what the harnesses were, except that we were using harnesses.
Here Mike moves right then up into the obvious vee-slot...
Here I am following:
(the film changed somehow during this pitch, I must have been climbing slowly, this was our first outing).
I think that this Mike on Funny Face 5.5
with me on the second pitch lead
and wondering if it were going to rain....
And here on Baby 5.6
moving past his second of four protection points on the first pitch.
In 1984, driving North on the New York State Thruway, I-87, early on a July day
in Lawrence's Ford "Siesta" (as he had dubbed it).
Mike following up to the 'Grand Traverse Ledge'
on pretty typical ground. Route descriptions in the Trapps tend to be pretty much the same: climb through the overhangs to the grand traverse ledge. Exit ledge through overhangs to the top.
White painters pants work pretty good, as do fashionable red bandanas...
I think that chalk bad might still be kicking around in the closet or out in the garage someplace.
Here Mike consults the Williams' "Red" guidebook for options
and a hazy view of Sky Top off in the distance
More summer days in 1985 as Mike prepares to alley-oop on Alley Oop 5.7
and the end-of-day top roping, high concentration on Phoebe 5.10
Mike was soon to move off to Fermilab, and I to UMass. Lawrence and I continued to get together to climb in the 'Gunks, only ~2.5 hours from Amherst, MA, sorta like from Livermore to Yosemite.
Here Lawrence utilizes two rope rigging on Son of Easy O 5.8
My graduate student Jorge's first time out in September of 1987, up Southern Pillar 5.2
apparent stoke...
And the nightmare graduate student scenario, your advisor belaying you up Ribs 5.4
Memory of some very good times
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adam d
climber
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Nice! I love the Gunks too!
That 3 Doves shot is actually Son of Easy O I believe...
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Mark Rodell
Trad climber
Bangkok
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I only climbed there once, a nice weekend. I was in grad school at Syracuse and had just bought a Chey van, bed, sink and lights. It was cozy. Drove a friday night and parked in a turnout near where the carriage rd hits the main road. Wasn't sure if it was cool to car camp there but it was close to midnight. I was up before dawn and and hung out at where there was some sign on the carriage rd, telling of the "rules" of the Gunks. I was in luck, the first person I saw was looking for a partner. Forget the guys name. He put on body building shows in the N.Y.,N.J. area. He'd only been climbing for a few years but was strong and safe and had a passion for the sport. I think we did ten climbs the first day and five on Sunday before I had to drive back to school. Great place. At first, I couldn't believe that some of the routes were rated 5.7 because they look from the base to be much tougher. Took a few climbs before I was willing to lead harder stuff.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Ed, some great shots from back in the day. Although the Gunks are small and friendly, I think it is possible to underestimate the challenge of heading up a very steep face with absolutely no idea where or whether protection will be found. Cams have made the likelihood of getting something in far greater than back in the day, when all you had were nuts and stoppers, and engineering various opposed contraptions while all the strength drained from your forearms was the order of the day.
A correction to one of your shots: The picture you have labeled as Three Doves is actually the second pitch (or the top of the run-together first pitch) of Son of Easy Overhang.
And then there are those memorable summer days of 1885, when we used to go out in our tweeds, Alpenstocks in hand, and thrill to the sound of tricouni nails scratching their way up...up...Alley Oop? 5.7 in 1885? I wonder if Oliver Perry-Smith knew about this.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nice. The Gunks on a clear, crisp Fall day are hard to beat.
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happiegrrrl
Trad climber
New York, NY
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Nice!
Some of my friends were out climbing today. I had two invites, but had to work. Cannot wait to get out again, and your pictures are some great routes. I finally went up V-3 this year - what a nice route. Maybe I'll be able to lead it this year.
Sure can't park along 44-55 like that anymore though. I've had some old timers say that change(no more street parking) was one of the primary changes that make the Gunks so "it'll never be the same."
So lucky to have learned to climb here, and call it my home crag. One of the great things about the Gunks is that it really is a crossroads of climbing. Not only the US but for climbers the world over.
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adam d
climber
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a few more Gunks shots...
2 followers on Jackie, one on her first Gunks climb ever.
the roof at the beginning of p2 of Birdie Party
Modern Times and the High E buttress
Looking up at Son of Easy O (done in 1 pitch)
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2010 - 12:11am PT
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I was wondering why that film stock was so faded.. 1885, hand tinted too!
thanks for the corrections... 30 year old notes aren't as complete as you thought they would be when you wrote them...
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Tomcat
Trad climber
Chatham N.H.
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I'm booting this to the top of the page....
Group effort On Any Monday ^^^^^
Welcome to The Gunks....or Laughing Man....I forget which. ^^^^^
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jstan
climber
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One summer's day I was standing at the waterpipe with the person who had created the Gunks' "Friendly Feeling" since the first day Hans and Fritz had showed up. He studied the pipe for a moment. Then mused, "Too bad this water is not able to reduce the birth rate a little."
Given a choice, sometimes even when not given a choice, humans seem always to prefer the extreme to the middle. From whence do you suppose that comes?
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Great post Ed!
I suppose we have some youngsters here who may not realize that jstan and rgold are legendary figures in the development of free climbing at the Gunks.
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jstan
climber
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You don't really see animals behaving this way. There the extreme usually carries with it risk of injury/death.
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Tomcat
Trad climber
Chatham N.H.
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When the squirrels sh#t in the water supply upstream the pipe,not the birth rate per se,but perhaps the population might be reduced.That memorable incident was the last time I took solice there indeed.
Edit to add: True words jstan. So many times we humans assume the critters feast on the carcasses of other similar sized creatures boldly taken in death matches,only to learn that wolves live on mice.
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L
climber
Hangin' by a thread and lookin' for my wings
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Allllllrighty then! We're back in TR-Heaven and life is looking mighty fine!
Fantastic TR, Ed. Loved the old photos...and this one will live in my mind forever...or at least until Edzilla: The Sequel manifests...heh-heh-heh...(jus' kiddin' wid ya!)
That is such a classic!
Many thanks, Ed.
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taorock
Trad climber
Okanogan, WA
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the 'Gunks seem homey, a beloved place with very fond memories. Though a place where important lessons were learned and cat-lives lost.
I love this Ed. For me that place is the Flatirons and Eldo - mostly as a teenager and in my early 20's.
"Cat-lives lost" is spot on!
I was lucky to be able to partake in the Gunks especially on one lengthy trip in 1976. The routes were incredible and the beauty made this westerner revise many misperceptions about the east coast.
Thanks for this thread.
tao
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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That reminds me, I should plan a trip soon.
As an occasional visitor, one thing that has always intimidated me on Gunks leads is the slightly slippery character of the quartzite, even when it's not humid (and often it is humid). The pebble footholds and smearing often feel just a little less secure than a sandstone-and-granite climber expects.
In that respect and some others, Rumney is the anti-Gunks. You can put your foot almost anywhere and those mica razor blades dig in to the rubber and hold it.
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Tomcat
Trad climber
Chatham N.H.
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I had contemplated posting just about exactly the same Chiloe.After beginning on a shale cliff,the Gunks rock seemed fabulous to me,and the pro too.I never placed much stock in the "stout gradings" concept,it was the only GOOD rock I'd ever climbed on.Later when I began to climb granite,I had to learn smearing,which we rarely did in the Gunks,especially on that smooth bullet quartzite.Now when I go back there,I find the tiny footwork a fierce effort,compounded by my not so great eyesight...lol.
This is Dirty Gerdie, led it barefoot a few times BITD,last trip it seemed desperate in modern shoes!
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Vulcan
Sport climber
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Rgold
I never thought of the Gunks as "small". Four major cliffs
in the guide plus Lost City. Many crags behind Lost City.
Then there is the Gap and more rock off of Crag Road.
And now the Lake is open.
Maybe small in that most climbs are 3 pitches or less.
Anyway it's in my list of top crags in the USA.
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mongrel
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Well, since we're talking 1800s here, I might as well post an old photo of High E that's been up before. Other than the first fixed pin at the beginning, I somehow missed all the rest and ended up running it out to the top, fingers totally numb from the cold. A full value on-sight of this 5.6 classic to be sure.
Which serves to emphasize the epics that can be had even on cliffs that are not too tall, on climbs with nominally humble ratings. Although a California climber originally (well, one roped climb before heading NE for college) and now, I credit the Gunks and NH as the places where I learned what climbing really was about, and learned how to stay in one piece depending on wits and focus rather than gear. There is nowhere else but Tahquitz with such an offering of total classics at every level of difficulty.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Ed--what, no microbus? hee hee hee. . .
Here's me, circa 1975 (notice the PA's), on Baskerville Terrace.
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richross
Trad climber
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Here is a shot of Amazon at Skytop.
Bruce Dicks is following with Geoff Ohland(left) and me on top,mid 80's.
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bparry
Trad climber
New Haven, CT
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Ed,
Thanks for your post which is of special interest to me: I suppose I am constructing my 'Gunks memoir' now. Getting out as often as I can as a graduate student.
Its really neat to see your retrospective view, I hope to be able to say the same in a few years!
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Generation Gap 1976/77?
Maria Double Direct 1977
Barbra Bein on Open Cockpit 1977
The Throne 1983
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Posted earlier as a side note to RGold's classic Red Rock TR (with Steve Molis) --
here's Steve leading CCK on my first visit to the Gunks, 1978:
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Thanks Ed for your memories,
It's a good thread.
Z
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Chiloe
What a grand route!!!!
I loved it!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Thanks, gang - very nice! I'd like to visit the Gunks some time, perhaps in combination with a tourist visit to New York and Washington.
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Tomcat
Trad climber
Chatham N.H.
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This thread is four from p2.Fair warning-I will pollute it with another picture from my youth if it goes to page two.Post up !
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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SteveW:
What a grand route!!!!
I loved it!
I did too, it was a fine welcome to the Gunks.
I've never repeated it, being such an occasional visitor that I can do new (for me)
routes almost every time. But a few years back I climbed CCK Direct (with the left-
hand finish), and thought that might be one of the funnest leads I've done in the
Gunks. Crux after little crux as you wander up this steep wall.
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richross
Trad climber
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Owen Silver on Foops.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2010 - 08:04pm PT
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I did Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope in April of 1988 according to my notes... which seems early...
That pitch is a very memorable one as I recall you walk out to a small crack on an uncharacteristically non-featured face to pull a few moves back into 'Gunks climbing... but that was a long time ago...
Thanks due to two more 'Gunkies Bob D'Antonio and Rich Ross... who don't post here enough... and we haven't heard from Alan Rubin yet either...
happiegrrrl, post some contemporary pictures of your outings!
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storer
Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
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Ed, funny, but you and I never seem to have crossed paths. While a physics grad student at Stony Brook my friend, Shary McVoy, and I used to drive up on the weekends to the Gunks. We continued to do that from Ithaca where I was a postdoc at Cornell. There used to be a campground. I'm wondering if there still is?
For those of you who have never done, say, Disneyland, you should. Only 5.6, I know, but after you finish and sit at the top with your legs dangling over the edge you really feel satisfied. But do it on a fall day. Walking the carriage road with the colors above while deciding what to do next is pure heaven.
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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I had some of the best days ever climbing in the Gunks in the mid-to late 70's. The friends, the routes and fall colors could almost be to much... it was magical.
Rich Romano
Kevin Bein
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2010 - 08:21pm PT
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storer, we kept to ourselves, aware we weren't pushing any boundaries but our own individual ones.. and that was pretty pathetic because we were trying to do research and climb, with research the higher priority...
One September day in 1993 my good buddy Lawrence and I wandered out to Millbrook to do something far from the crowds. We decided on Strange City 5.7 challenging enough for us as neither Lawrence nor I had been climbing much. I remember it being one of those glorious fall days. My notation on this climb next to the pitch 1 description "great pitch," I see Stannard was on the FFA in 1968.
The second pitch ends on a large ledge, and the route walks the ledge southish to the final pitch in a left facing corner. I remember sitting on the ledge for a long time. Lawrence had finished up his thesis and was going to do his post-doc in Salt Lake City at UU, which was the end of an era for me of graduate school climbing partners. I remember trying not to become maudlin, but we looked out over the Hudson River Valley there, with hints of autumn, and an eagle soared under our perch on that ledge. I had never seen an eagle in the 'Gunks. It seemed so appropriate. Like Jobee said on the other thread "just let it go."
Anyway, I remember that good time, the only time I climbed at Millbrook, and thought it would be a great place to return to, far from the the Überfall scene, maybe catching a glimpse of what it was like 50 years earlier...
... I didn't know it then but I would move back west 3 years later.
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richross
Trad climber
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Millbrook Mountain from my saucer shaped weather balloon.
Skytop.
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Kevin Bein was the first Gunkie that I met back in 1976 and what a stroke of luck it was. I visited the Gunks previously but only for a short time and with climbing partners. We just climbed and left. I climbed with Kevin and his wife Barbra and then through them became friends with a number of other Gunks climbers. A lot of those climbers are still life long friends and remembering our times together back then brings a tear and smile to face.
I miss Kevin dearly.
Me, Kevin and Elliot around 1980 at the Uberfall.
Nice tread Ed..thanks for starting it.
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richross
Trad climber
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Hi Bob.
It is still a tough loss for me too.
Barbara,Kevin and Rich Romano at Lake Awosting,mid 80's.
Kevin is wearing his i'd rather be climbing tee shirt.
Thanks for the thread Ed.
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Rich...I remember when you use to show with all those pastries. Good stuff.
It was really good to see you last year at the reunion and looking forward to this year. Hope all is well?
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happiegrrrl
Trad climber
New York, NY
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I really don't have many climbing photos(butt shots from the ground), but will see what I can find. I'm not much of an organizer, and everything is all over the place....
That's me, following my friend Ha's lead up High E, this past fall. Some people we met on the GT Ledge had a good camera, took photos for us and then met us downstairs to exchange email addresses!
Some people in the nears - I don't even know which route, but somewhere not very far in from the road.
Skytop from the atop the Trapps(poor photoshop job screwing around with the sky saturation)
My friend, Irina, leading Ursula
Maybe this year I will get a little bit of shooting done.
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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One of those magical fall days at the Gunks.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2010 - 09:42pm PT
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happiegrrrl - great luck for you to have a wonderful image of you on High Exposure!
Thanks all for sharing on this thread...
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Rock!...oopsie.
Trad climber
the pitch above you
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Hey Happie...
Nice shots. The Nears shot is the top of Layback.
-Bob
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Great shots folks!! What a great place the Gunks are!! Got to visit one time in the '80's...
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adam d
climber
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More Gunks shots, two great corners...
The Winter
and the Spring
No shots but the Spring p2 roof (ironically right above the winter) is sweet as well.
Welcome to the Gunks - 5 cruxes to go!
Higher Stannard
Following on Arrow p2
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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The Fall..1988
Nice shots everyone...thanks.
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richross
Trad climber
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My first time up Foops,1976.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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I basically live in the Gunks and this is making me nostalgic...
Here are a few I haven't posted here somewhere already.
This one I'll caption...me, my daughter, and her boyfriend on the High Peterskill trail a few weeks ago. Lost City and the Mohonk Tower in the background.
Taken with a cardboard drugstore p & s, but it captures the spirit of the land...Millbrook Mountain in the background (the crag is on the other side).
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Ezra
Social climber
WA, NC, Idaho Falls
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bump for the real deal y'all!\
Thanks for the great thread Ed!
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richross
Trad climber
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Bruce Dicks on the V.
Fred Yackulic on the V.
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Tea
Trad climber
Behind the Zion Curtain
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Three cheers for the Gunks!
Where else can you climb a "5.4" with a 5.9 crux that turns a 12 foot roof!!
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L
climber
Hangin' by a thread and lookin' for my wings
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Wow! Amazing photos y'all!
Happie, that pix of you on High E is gorgeous! Awesome colors, great fore/background jux.
And Richie, your photos always elicit a great feeling inside...just beautiful!
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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WOW! I love the photos and stories. Thanks for sharing them. I'm tempted to crawl into storage to get the few photos I may have. It's been five years - can't wait to get back there...
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happiegrrrl
Trad climber
New York, NY
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Here's a match for the tree enshrouded in fog above. Wonder if they are both from the slabby walk-up back behind the Nears?
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Paulina
Trad climber
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Wow, Ed, thanks for this!
I loved the Gunks from the first time I set eyes on it on a wet Spring day back in 2001, I think. Which of course is like saying "back yesterday" in the context of this thread.
A couple of years ago, I led Baby with all the reassurance of present-day cams (although no big cams), and felt so proud of myself! Then as we came back down, a party was roping up for it and asked us for pro beta. The leader's rack consisted entirely of stoppers and hexes. And I hung my head in shame.
Just to let you know some people are still re-creating your valiant ascents of yesteryear in fine style.
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richross
Trad climber
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No I didn't join a cult!
Bob wrote...
Rich...I remember when you use to show with all those pastries. Good stuff.
Me on Mellow Yellow in my bakers outfit when I was the head baker at the Mohonk Mountain House,late 70's,photo by Geoff Ohland.
I used to carry around bags of danish,cookies and brownies to give away.
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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There are a few things that are fused into my mind about the Gunks. I can see them in my mind eye like it was yesterday.
Sunday morning walking up to the Uberfall and seeing Tom sitting on back of the blue Toyota truck, New Times in one hand, coffee in the other and a box of donuts.
Kevin and Barbara with their down coats on no what time of the year it was.
Driving up 299 and seeing the Trapps, no matter how times I did it, the excitement was like seeing it for the first time.
The walk from the Trapps to Skytop...beautiful and always special.
The communal seizing of routes...usually on a Sunday afternoon and no less that 10 to 15 people always laughing at someone and ourselves.
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Ricardo Cabeza
climber
All Over.
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Is it standard at the Gunks to use two ropes?
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Rich wrote: No I didn't join a cult!
Yes you did and so did I. We are still in it. Once a Gunkie...
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FinnMaCoul
Trad climber
Green Mountains, Vermont
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What a great thread, Ed... so happy to see the Gunks getting some love. I was there a ton during that same timeframe in the 80s. My first experience leading multi-pitch was there. It appears I'm not alone in my overwhelming fondness for the place... it seems to have reserved the same special spot in many of our hearts.
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richross
Trad climber
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Jim Munson flying off Witness Protection Program.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Ricardo, there was a time when doubles were very popular, but the pendulum of fashion seems to have swung away from that and it looks to me like the majority of climbers are using singles.
The point about doubles isn't just that routes wander (although some certainly do), it is about full realization of protection possibilities. Since climbs do not necessarily follow vertical cracks, protection can wander considerably even when the climbing does not, and small gear. which is perhaps more typical of the gunks than some other areas, often needs to be placed in profusion in order to increase the chances that something somewhere will actually hold a fall.
Personally, having gotten used to doubles over many years, I feel slightly uncomfortable when I have to climb with just one rope!
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cliffmama
Trad climber
Noo Jerzee
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Driving up 299 and seeing the Trapps, no matter how times I did it, the excitement was like seeing it for the first time.
Bob, I know the feeling. I was just driving up there yesterday with my daughter, and I said to her - after all these years, I still get this happy and content feeling inside whenever I see that view.
Jannette
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MH2
climber
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I have an incomplete memory of the climbs I did in the 'Gunks
Great reflective post, Ed.
My sentiments are similar and well expressed by Bob D'A.
Driving up in the dark, the brilliance of the day, the anticipation and fear, seeing Mohonk House the first time on a rain day, walking to Mohonk in the night and climbing by moonlight, dusty rustling Autumn approaches, climbing Easy V with Allelu Kurtin mother of Jamie Kurtin and puppeteer who met her husband in Hawaii when she impulsively climbed a waterfall and was about to fall from the top when he reached out and saved her.
It probably doesn't matter what era you climbed at the Gunks. If you spent any time at all there you are richer. I made visits from Providence, RI, from '68 to '71 and lived in Poughkeepsie for year and a half after that. This spanned the time from fairly common use of pitons and goldline to nuts and kernmantel.
I bought Daily Permits from Thom Scheuer, encountered Jim McCarthy, John Stannard, Rich Goldstone, Rich Romano, John Bragg, Henry Barber, and many others.
I never took a picture at the Gunks until a non-climbing visit with my wife and young children in 1988. I look at my climbing days there as a wilderness preserve of the mind, not to be visited too often lest the memories somehow lose their force. I did over two thirds of the routes listed in the Williams 1972 blue guide and would not want to confuse those times with newer ones. But when my mind and body get soft enough I will gladly return! There is no better place for easy and moderate routes that I know of. And the hard ones are the same only harder.
This route had been done but it was new to me and not in the guide. It's about 5.6
Double Crack
3 Daily Permits
1) My first day: a blue-tailed skink ran across my hand on Rusty Trifle and spiked my fear level.
2) A year and a half later. Leading 5.6 was a HUGE step up, and was arrived at by many another sweaty-palmed braving of the unknown.
3) A trip in September 1976, I think, during a quarter break from Chicago.
Visit with family in 1988. Entering the signage era. If you need to point out that climbing can be dangerous?
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slevin
Trad climber
New York, NY
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Was climbing at the Trapps on Sunday. Apparently, a large flake just fell off the Lynn Hill traverse and it's like a ghost now - nobody even cleaned the new hold yet. Very reverent.
Anyway, the conditions were just right for a few 10s and an 11. Gunks rule... Tendinitis sucks...
PS. c_vultaggio, please tell me you think The Dangler is overrated...
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richross
Trad climber
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Annie Dubats on Lakeview early 80's.
Needs photoshop help!
Taffy (Kathleen) Bunt on Grey Face 1980.
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Tomcat
Trad climber
Chatham N.H.
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Ruthless Gunks Bump....
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c_vultaggio
Trad climber
new york
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PS. c_vultaggio, please tell me you think The Dangler is overrated...
slevin - I think the move is not so bad, and a short route but exposure is pretty awesome, especially if it is near your limit and it is one hell of a photo op...
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divad
Trad climber
wmass
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The classic Horseman
Beatle Brow Bulge
Birdcage
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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More than most areas, the Gunks offer good photo ops looking down.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 9, 2010 - 01:06am PT
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NYZoo
Trad climber
Gunks
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Rich,
Where is witness protection program? The route looks great..
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richross
Trad climber
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Thanks Ed for the photoshop help.
Witness Protection Program is at Bonticou,I think triple right?
A couple shots from that same day of Rich Romano making the FA, late 80's.
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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Great thread! Here are a few more contemporary pics:
Two of me on the last pitch of Bonnies:
Chiloe begins the exciting traverse on Horseman:
My old partner Chris on Easy V:
GO
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richross
Trad climber
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Barbara Bein and Rich Romano at the Gunks reunion weekend 2008.
Note the Obama cast which didn't keep him from climbing.
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Chip
Trad climber
Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
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Thanks everyone. This is a great "feel good" thread. Sunday at the Trapps was beautiful, slogging up trails with snow sometimes to your knees and then trying to find some way to put on your rock shoes without getting everything wet. Having started climbing there in '78 I remaim a loyal disciple. Most of you were my accquantences and I have always appreciated the friendly spirits I've met there.
I thought I should point out Ranger Todd Swain in the background of one of Bob's pictures.
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richross
Trad climber
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Henry Barber on True Grip.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 17, 2012 - 12:21am PT
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Slater told me to bump this...
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Mar 17, 2012 - 11:50am PT
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Ed-
Nice thread. I have only been there once and need to spend some time serious time there.
Rick
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Zander
climber
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Mar 17, 2012 - 12:29pm PT
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Ed Bump!
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Mar 17, 2012 - 05:06pm PT
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I've posted these pictures to other threads, but surely they belong here as well.
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nevahpopsoff
Boulder climber
the woods
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Mar 17, 2012 - 05:21pm PT
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Took a friend there a couple of years ago, his first time there. When we drove out of town where you get your first view of the cliffs, it was foggy. It cleared just as we were driving through the orchards. I believe his response was "HOLY SH*T!!".
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Mar 17, 2012 - 05:26pm PT
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The Gunks are way choice...
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Rokrover
Trad climber
SB, CA
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Mar 17, 2012 - 06:17pm PT
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What a coincidence! I just sorted through a box of my Gunks archives from 1975 to 2000 and posted a personal retrospective here:
http://rokrover.blogspot.com/2012/03/shawangunk-climbing.html
This site includes a link to pictures.
Nothing special really, except perhaps the first Australian experience there adjusting to a new culture. The Gunks always hold a magic place in my memories.
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OR
Trad climber
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Mar 17, 2012 - 06:30pm PT
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So awesome gang! Bringing back some great memories.
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jstan
climber
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Mar 17, 2012 - 06:31pm PT
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You will have to pardon my lack of skill with a camera.
The first photo is of the first ascent party on Frog's Head, 1941. Photo belongs to F. Wiessner. That would be Fritz belaying Lorens Logan from above. I expect that would be a manila rope. It almost appears Fritz is giving Lorens an over the shoulder belay.
The second photo shows Horseman in 1942. Photo was given me by Fritz Wiessner for the Eastern Trade. This was the photo that, overall, came out best. I got a better shot but you would have had to turn your head to look at it.
For comparison the last photo, also of Horseman was taken in 1972. Same problem that I don't seem to be able to save an image adjusted for tilt. I could try reading the instructions but that would be aid.
Pete Bratt's wife is a lichenologist. She says acid rain, such as that the Gunks gets from The City, pretty much spells the end of the lichen.
I had the soft iron fixed pins I made coated with cadmium to prevent rust. If there are any left you will see a strip of rock below them where nothing grows. Acid rain is carrying cadmium off the pins and it kills whatever is growing there.
Edit:
On his blog Rokrover tells us Curt was convinced I terrorized him. Truth is I was always myself in sufficient trouble so as not to notice such things. But I very much doubt he was ever worried.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Mar 17, 2012 - 06:37pm PT
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Always a great thread to see!
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SCseagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Mar 17, 2012 - 06:51pm PT
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Love this thread. Only knew the Gunks as a child on our way to other vacation spots.
Susan
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adam d
climber
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Mar 17, 2012 - 06:56pm PT
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I climbed in the Gunks a lot from 2002-2006 and am going back for the first time since then in June. Psyched.
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DPerret
Trad climber
Bay Area, California
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Mar 17, 2012 - 07:34pm PT
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Despite growing up less than an hour and a half from the Gunks, I didn't know they existed until after I began climbing in California years later.
Made my first trip up while visiting family over these past holidays... it was cold, but we had a great time! Some pictures:
Was able to get up twice during my visit... once with my brother, and once with a visiting friend. Neither had ever climbed multipitch or trad... we had a wonderful time.
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richross
Trad climber
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Mar 17, 2012 - 08:29pm PT
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A couple of photos from today.
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Vulcan
Sport climber
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Mar 17, 2012 - 09:18pm PT
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Max Factor at Skytop
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saa
climber
not much of a
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Mar 17, 2012 - 10:00pm PT
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Great, thanks Ed,
now I feel like a complete dork. I have been 2 weeks in the general Gunks area and not
climbed. Boooo booo, tears... Rope and rack were shipped to France, but 1 harness
and 2 shoes are here, so little excuse. The weather has been mostly around
70 Fahrenheit...
and I have not put my harness on. Shame on me :)
I think I shall be nominated for "biggest cretin of the year 2012", if
there is such a prize. Ed, you vote, Happy you vote. Happy, Darwin
wishes to know how Teddy is doing, by the way.
Anyhow, I should have posted earlier. Mighty Hiker, sorry I did not
follow suit after talking to you last week. I got entangled in
Homeland Security papers... to leave the USA, not to enter the
USA (!?!?)
I would have liked to climb the Gunks, but I fly to Paris Monday. That
is most likely permanent, even though I will go back and forth across
the pond occasionally. Perhaps, see some of you in JTree? Although I
doubt I'll make the Todd Gordon April 22 blast. Perhaps see you
again..., many of you, at the next Facelift (Kenny, I have a few
nice photos of Facelift 2011 to send you, please remind me).
Ed, by the way, this is the mop sweeper of the Yos amphitheater,
Facelift 2011. You know, one who made planets for a living... and
howled the coyotes awake in deep night at Yellow Pines. :-)
Essentially, to you all, this is goodbye. I doubt I will live in America
again. But I sure hope some will visit me in France. I shall host you
with a kitchen and a shower. Do expect to sleep in a tent though!
Cheers,
Cheers to all of you who crossed path with me, held my rope, shared
beer, sat by a fire, hung at the Tom bridge. And hell, between Camp 4,
Hidden Valley, Squamish, Red and Smith Rocks, San Diego, Moab, etc, that
must be, well, that surely is, a lot of people.
Sabine
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 18, 2012 - 02:26am PT
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I will have not forgotten you Sabine, my floor mopping compatriot!
When my travels take me to France I'll contact you.
Safe travels and do report in on your exploits!
Good luck!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Mar 18, 2012 - 02:55am PT
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Edzilla does the gunks, a prequel. In which Doris gets her oats....
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Mar 18, 2012 - 08:24am PT
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Ed, you looked so different when you were younger. It's hard to tell which one is you...
Very nice memoir. I climbed in the Gunks only once, but it was for 5 weeks in the early Fall. I think it rained once, so we climbed nearly every day. Possibly my all-time favorite trip.
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richross
Trad climber
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Mar 18, 2012 - 09:42pm PT
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Jim Munson on Graveyard Shift , 1987.
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richross
Trad climber
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Mar 18, 2012 - 10:34pm PT
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Doug Strickholm on Land of Milk and Honey, early 80's.
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Mar 18, 2012 - 10:39pm PT
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Go Mongo, go!
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lucander
Trad climber
Shawangunks, New York
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Mar 19, 2012 - 05:44am PT
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Two unsung legends of the cliff, both have been around here for decades. Chances are you've met these fellas if you've been to the Gunks - I'd estimate that 18% of the climbers in America have crossed their path at some time.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 8, 2012 - 11:04pm PT
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feeling nostalgic...
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 11, 2012 - 04:25pm PT
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bump this
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Whitehorse Jeff
Trad climber
Fairfield, CT
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Sep 11, 2012 - 04:56pm PT
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Rich Ross-- I remember the baked goods well and that day at Skytop with Bruce, Geoff and you-- I think Casey Newman may have been there as well--I didn't follow you on Amazon--I could tell she was too much for me! Jeff Lea
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richross
Trad climber
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Sep 11, 2012 - 10:31pm PT
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Hi Jeff. I wonder if it was you who took the photo? I forgot who I gave the camera to. Those were fun times.
Amazon
Here's a couple of me on Amazon from 1980 or 81. Photos by Geoff Ohland
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Sep 11, 2012 - 11:28pm PT
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Rich, very nice POV for the over-view and the follow-up close-up sequence. Easily one of the best in this thread, IMO.
I want to remember Andy Cox (RIP), Wally Shamonist (sp?), Jon Waterman--I am assuming it's the same man, and George Meyers who I n00bily thought of as ex-pats from the Gunks.
They all got their crack-climbing education, as they intended by coming to YV. And wouldn't you know, one died and his story came to be a legend of sorts (AC), one went on to fame as the author of the Yosemite Valley Climbers' Guide (GM), and another has gone on to write nine books on the subjects we like to read about in Tacoville (JW). The Wall, as I privately referred to him, has faded into the mist, but not before he climbed the EB of El Cap and led the Knobbly Wall. He was so thrilled to find good face climbing so high above the ground, you could tell he was Gunkie to the core.
YV owes lots to the Gunkies and Vulgarians.
I have said it before, but I watched Jstan do the Lunatic Fringe. So controlled, so deliberate, yet powerful. That was the day Ike and Throwpie and I were climbing with Pettigrew, Luke, Werner, and a few others up at the Reeds Pinnacle area, early 70s.
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Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
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Sep 12, 2012 - 09:30am PT
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Hello Mouse..., I'm pretty sure that the "Jon" Waterman who was in the Valley in the early '70s with folks like Andy Cox, Wally, (and myself) etc was the late Johnny Waterman of subsequent Mt. Hunter fame, not the still living author Jon Waterman. Both were New Englanders and contemporaries who later became very connected with Alaska but I don't believe that Jon (who is very tall) climbed much (if at all)in Yosemite, while Johnny (short and muscular) did climb there during that period.
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Gunkie
Trad climber
East Coast US
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Sep 12, 2012 - 10:03am PT
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Great thread! Currently in the air using the onboard wifi, about 2 hours out of denver. I hope to get my 16 yo daughter and 10 yo son up casa emilio columbus day weekend. Who knows, maybe my 13 yo daughter and fearful wife will want to come along? Hell, we will turn a 2 pitch 5.2 into a grade IV adventure. So, stay away unless you want to get behind the slowest, loudest Gunkie Gang ever.
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richross
Trad climber
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Sep 12, 2012 - 10:21am PT
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I met Johnny Waterman the first time I went climbing on the carriage road in 1968. I was off to do a climb with John Weichsel. Johnny stood out because he was about the same age as me (I was 14 years old at the time) . It seems everytime I climbed in the late sixties (maybe 10 times) I'd run into him. He was usually with his family. In the summer of 1970 I got to know him a little better and would run into him by himself before I moved to California for four years. When I came back in 1974 he had already left the Gunks. I wish I'd gotten to spend more time with him. I did get to smoke a joint with him once.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Sep 12, 2012 - 10:36am PT
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Alan, glad to hear from you. Thanks to you, as well, Rich...
I wasn't sure about which J Waterman was the one who died, I kinda took a chance, but also knew someone would correct me (99% probablity rate of that happening here on the Taco).
Short he was, definitely. Strong, as well. He accompanied Wally on the EB of El Cap. He had relatives in Monterey where we spent the night on a road trip from YV to the Jass Feztival in 1971. So I credit him with introducing me to author James Branch Cabell, whose works were leatherbound in the library of that house in Monterey.
"J. Waterman" was ready-made to be a trademark!!!
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Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
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Sep 12, 2012 - 10:51am PT
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Sure Mouse---a "99%" likelihood of being corrected on the Taco, but being "correctly corrected" that's another story!!! Anyway, it definitely sounds like you met Johnny not Jon. Johnny, Andy, Wally, I guess I was as well, were all part of an informal "Vulgarian cover group" known as the Degenerates so it would be likely that they would be climbing together in the Valley.What year was your encounter with them? I climbed some with Johnny in "the Ditch" in the fall of '70.
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steveA
Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
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Sep 12, 2012 - 11:00am PT
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Fun thread to stumble upon.
I spent many weekends in the Gunks in the late 60's. Even climbed a few routes with the "Classic" Vulgarians, of the likes of Dave Craft and Dick Whilliams and even a whole week with Art Gran. That was an experience- I the Noobie and expert dish washer.
Unforgetable memories.
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jstan
climber
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Sep 12, 2012 - 12:58pm PT
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John was strong. After he got back from one of his trips to Alaska, he asked me to take about 40# of rosy Alaskan granite down to DC. He had carried it out from one of his mountains as a present for his mom.
We all have known really esteemable people who did not make it for some reason. In quieter moments we wonder how it is we failed to help. This may be the flip side of the Werner Braun rule.
"You got to let people be who they are."
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MH2
climber
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Sep 12, 2012 - 01:02pm PT
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A Shawangunk memory:
Someone quoting Tom Patey: "Any fool can monkey about on rock overhangs, but it takes craft and cunning to beat the Brenva."
Denny Merritt: "I didn't know Craft had been to the Alps. Who's Cunning?"
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Sep 12, 2012 - 01:04pm PT
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So very good of you, Jstan, to say that.
That was a brief moment of silence to remember those gone Gunkies and others.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Sep 12, 2012 - 01:20pm PT
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MH2 so funny, but did you know there are lots of Cunning bastards; most families have several thru the generations.
And the family has trademarked the family crest, the cunning SOBs.
The crest bears a Latin phrase for "The power to rule is the same as justice," very loosely translated).
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Sep 21, 2012 - 05:33pm PT
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Alan, sorry, been trippin.
I met them in 1971, as I had the DORF, which we used to go over to the Jazz Festival that summer, with a pit stop in Merced.
Degenerates in my mother's house? Nothing new there!!!
We polluted the pool and left, trailing sweet smoke.
Merced is still rocking & reeling. I mean, like, some things never change...Except in our memories!
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wilbeer
Mountain climber
honeoye falls,ny,sawdust does not work like chalk
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Sep 21, 2012 - 11:04pm PT
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great thread ed.
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wilbeer
Mountain climber
honeoye falls,ny,sawdust does not work like chalk
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Sep 21, 2012 - 11:26pm PT
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hey stich ,that stuff is all over the catskills and the dacks ,it is on the paper birch trees.ive also wondered of its existance.
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Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
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Sep 24, 2012 - 09:33am PT
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The fellow who committed suicide by jumping off Jackie was Howie Davis. A very nice guy and good climber who apparently suffered from underlying issues that were not obvious to his climbing companions. While it was the end of his affair with another climber's wife that triggered his suicide at a very young age (I believe that he was no more than his early 20s at the time)there was surely much more going on that contributed to his tragic decision.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 1, 2013 - 07:18pm PT
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found this in a photo album,
I'm following Arrow in 1984...
looking at that bolt.. one of the only ones at that time in the Gunks (at least on routes that I would do)... is it still there?
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adam d
climber
CA
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My last time on Arrow was in 2006...
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Bolts are still in original positions, but have been replaced by beefier varieties.
Arrow shot from the seventies.
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richross
Trad climber
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On top after my first lead of Arrow in 1975.
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Mrs. Tea
climber
clio, ca
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I was there in 1980 as well. To bad my pics were stolen from storage.
Hanging with Hans Krause and the Raubenheimer's. Kris of course authered many firsts in the 60's. One of the first hard women of the stone. Cheers to Kris, Wally and Tor. And of course Jon Rose who taught me how to ice climb. Many thanks to you all.
Gill James
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Dec 11, 2013 - 05:09pm PT
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Nice trip down various memory lanes.
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c_vultaggio
Trad climber
new york
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Dec 11, 2013 - 06:08pm PT
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lucander
Trad climber
Shawangunks, New York
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Dec 11, 2013 - 07:41pm PT
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Wishbone!
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DanaB
climber
CT
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Dec 11, 2013 - 07:51pm PT
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A.K.A., Pie in the Sky.
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happiegrrrl
Trad climber
www.climbaddictdesigns.com
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Dec 11, 2013 - 08:05pm PT
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This photo was shot by the guy who's house I was sewing chalkbags in the last few years. Seems like he captured the quintessential Gunks climbing moment....
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jstan
climber
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Dec 12, 2013 - 02:40pm PT
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Two subjects here.
1. On netflix you will find "Steve Jobs: The Lost Interview". Watch it. Absolutely incredible! If you work for a company that is totally screwed up, Steve explains why this is so.
2. Erect Direction
The climb deserves all the attention it gets - and more. After we did it Bragg and I decided we
had to get Wunsch on it, belaying in that scrunched up corner. The leader would then gather a few
feet of slack and jump off while out of sight above the next ceiling. From that position we would fall
past Steve, directly in front of him, while smiling and waving goodbye.
Unfortunately it never came to pass. We just continued to get ever older. Well, I did at least.
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Dec 12, 2013 - 03:00pm PT
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wilbeer
Mountain climber
honeoye falls,ny.greeneck alleghenys
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Dec 12, 2013 - 06:50pm PT
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Nice shot C,careful with those guitar playing hands.Cheers Wilbeer.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 6, 2015 - 07:25pm PT
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what the heck, bump this one too
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EdwardT
Trad climber
Retired
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Thanks Ed.
Excellent OP and thread.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2017 - 12:24pm PT
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feeling the nostalgia bump
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Jan 15, 2017 - 01:56pm PT
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You should come back and visit us!
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Kligfield
Mountain climber
Boulder, CO
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Apr 28, 2017 - 02:19pm PT
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Always nice to read praise for the Gunks! Someone said that you are always a product of your initial climbs--despite your experience in many other areas. I believe many Gunks climbers share this opinion. I know that I do. Hope to hear from others still around from the early days.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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May 30, 2019 - 09:12pm PT
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There are some vertical cracks in the GunksA classic that takes some planning to pull offIf you do try be Careful,
the entire flake at the lip flexes
ughh be back with the goods in an hour or so
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Todd Eastman
Social climber
Putney, VT
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May 31, 2019 - 06:16am PT
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Perhaps the rains will cease for a few days so we can produce more Gunks memories...😊
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