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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 25, 2010 - 12:56pm PT
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I received an e-mail from a high school classmate a few weeks ago asking me if I would help get the summit register from Lower Cathedral Spire (May 1964 to late 1973) to a rightful place. My friend had received it from a mutual friend from 40 years ago, but no one seems to know its whereabouts for the past 37 years or so.
I will send it to Ken Yager, but I scanned a few pages. It is 80 pages long, 6 inches by 3 1/2 inches, bound memo style pages. Some of the pages, and the cover, are water damaged or have faded ink and I cannot make them out. But the one's I scanned (two pages per scan) are fun to read.
The Lower Spire is not hard to get up and it has to be one of the most spectacular summits in the Valley. It is obviously a great place for a fun outing.
Many of the same qualities as reading SuperTopo. Life was so much slower then.
Summer 1965. Sheridan Anderson cartoon. Ascents by Pratt, Frost, McCarthy
Herbert, Sacherer, Fredricks, Marshick. Bob Ashworth and friends. One of several ascents by Tom Kimbrough.
Jim Madsen with Tom Hargis. Dick McCracken and friends. Roman Laba. Antiwar protest.
Prowar. Oh, shutup!
Ed Leeper, friends and numerology. Alan Ruben and Loyd Price. (Edited with assistance of Alan's eagle eye. See below.) Joe Kesley. The Wilsons.
Lichtman. Richard Hechtel. Pratt and friends. "Beautiful, beautiful fall day" (Maybe also beautiful women.)
Dennis Hennek.
Jani and Steve and Dick and Judy--we were all single once. And Steve is always taking heat for his guide books.
Summer, 1969. Bugs McKeath. Reference to 'Wall of the Early Morning Light."
I have been up there twice in this period and several more times afterwards.
Snow is not always fun!
It is always about a bit of land, a pack of cigarettes, and a girl as Mike White and Michael Farrell point out.
Blessings and Marx.
The cover has writing on it. Anyone have special restoration skills?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Feb 25, 2010 - 01:25pm PT
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Guido discovered that the papyrus used in the register made for a good smoke.
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Gene
Social climber
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Feb 25, 2010 - 02:00pm PT
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Nice.
June 24, 1967 - Jim Morrison
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scuffy b
climber
Where only the cracks are dry
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Feb 25, 2010 - 02:01pm PT
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Dennis Mehmet and Bruce Morris, too.
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Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
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Feb 25, 2010 - 03:31pm PT
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It is nostalgic to see my scawl in there--6/11/'66--with Lloyd Price, complete with our rattler encounters, squeezed in a few days after Leeper and 2 before Hudson, Kelsey, and Meitzler---seems like it was yesterday. Well, my handwriting surely hasn't improved!!!!
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2010 - 04:29pm PT
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Sorry I missed that Alan. I would never have read Loyd's name in that scrawl. I have seen more names that I recognize as I have read through it again. I will consider scaning the whole book and posting it.
Does anyone know about a movie titled "Barefoot by Moonlight?" John McMain and Eric Ahola have several entries in the last pages related to the making of a climbing movie.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Feb 25, 2010 - 04:33pm PT
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WOW!!!!
Thanks for the history, Roger!
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Happy Idiot
Trad climber
Santa Fe
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Feb 25, 2010 - 05:00pm PT
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Is it curious how a quote from Alice's Restaurant is on a page from 1965??? Or was it added retroactively?
(or, is that passage from something else? yes, I'm a yung 'un).
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Feb 25, 2010 - 07:40pm PT
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Under the page marked "Dennis Henneck," you'll see the name "Jack Schnurr."
He taught me the ropes.
JL
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storer
Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
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Feb 25, 2010 - 09:31pm PT
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That's amazing that I'm reading the summit register again and here's a picture of Dick Nelson taken on the climb of the first entry. Thank you!
When you get long in the tooth you really cherish old memories of climbs and friends.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Feb 25, 2010 - 09:54pm PT
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the Alice's Restaurant Massacree purportedly took place in 1965 on Thanksgiving Day. The album by Arlo Guthrie, Alice's Restaurant was released in 1967 and the movie followed in 1969. That entry seems to be a direct quote, it could have been added later...
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2010 - 10:11pm PT
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Cool picture, Jon.
With the personal connections from Alan, John and Jon--all of which I missed in deciding which pages to scan--I will scan the whole book. What I posted is about one third of the total.
As a guide, I really liked this route. Most of the climbing is easy. But traversing off the giant ledge above all of that air really gives everyone a jolt. Then easy face climbing and you are on one of the best summits anywhere. I guided it many times.
I had one client, a high end investment banker from New York when there weren't so many as now, who wanted to climb the Lower Spire. He was a good climber but was terrified of heights. I warned him that the pitches off the ledge might be impossible for him but he was insistent. I took extra gear to get us down if we were all strung out. I think it took him a full hour to make the first move. He was elated when he got to the top. Great guy.
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2010 - 10:42pm PT
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I think the "I'm not surprised" at the top of the page and the "I want to kill, kill, kill!! Eat dead burned bodies!" was added later by Bob and Tom Bauman who climbed the "N.E. Chimney route and the crux of the reg. route all done free" on Aug 24, 1967.
It is the same handwriting and in the same pencil.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Feb 25, 2010 - 10:46pm PT
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Ah Bugs, RIP
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John Morton
climber
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Feb 27, 2010 - 12:12am PT
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Thanks Roger, I hope you are inspired to scan the other pages. So many names not seen for years! I spotted Andy Lichtman, and instantly remembered that Pratt liked to call him "Andrew Dorkus Nauseum". (He was OK, just annoyingly young.)
John
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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Feb 27, 2010 - 01:10am PT
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Thanks Roger, for sharing with everyone
If you scan the whole register, I hope it will encourage others to do so as well.
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Scared Silly
Trad climber
UT
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Feb 27, 2010 - 01:18am PT
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Way cool ... great to see a few pictures to match the register.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 27, 2010 - 01:47am PT
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Very nice!
Should there be a statute of limitations or something, on the more embarrassing things we might have written or drawn in such books? Let's just say that not all of it is necessarily publishable literature. :-)
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Feb 27, 2010 - 02:11am PT
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How incredibly cool...
I always like to read summit registers. I always forget to look for them when I'm up somewhere one might be.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Feb 27, 2010 - 03:25am PT
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Scared Silly
I can contribute a couple of photos and I am sure there are others out there that can lend a hand to match up the names with the faces and the places.
Ferrell on the right toking
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!