Discussion Topic |
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Messages 1 - 204 of total 204 in this topic |
Weld_it
Trad climber
Chatsworth
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 24, 2010 - 01:39pm PT
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What is an acceptable failure rate for welded shuts as lower off anchors? I've been welding some up in shop class and have since found out that the welds are not really that strong (at least the way I'm doing it LOL) Since there are always two at an anchor how big of a problem is this?
And before you flame me, I know what I'm doing (3rd year of shop) and have been climbing a long time (2 years +) so save your hate for someone else.
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scuffy b
climber
Where only the cracks are dry
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Feb 24, 2010 - 01:40pm PT
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50% or so sounds OK.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Feb 24, 2010 - 01:51pm PT
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Sounds a bit scary... hopefully someone that knows somethign will chime in, interesting.
I personally am saving my hate for Simon Cowell.
He's such a jerk. And I always sing out of key, its my style.
Some wounds just don't heal.
Best of luck!
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Feb 24, 2010 - 01:59pm PT
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I wouldn't expect them to basically EVER fail.
So maybe...50 years MTBF?
have been climbing a long time (2 years +)
When I'd been climbing "2 years +", I didn't feel like I'd been climbing a long time.
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DCCC
Trad climber
Castle Rock, CO
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Feb 24, 2010 - 02:04pm PT
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From my experience, welded coldshuts are plenty strong for lowering off at the belay when placed in tandem.
The real issue with coldshuts is that the repeated use of lowering and toproping wears grooves into the relatively soft metal.
I have been working on replacing many twenty year old coldshut anchors at my local crags.
I would advise against using shuts as protection on route since they are inadequate for repeated falls.
As with all lowering station anchors, cold shuts get grooved with repeated use and require periodic replacement.
This is why it is generally preferable to use something like the beefy Fixe anchors with quick links, chain and descending rings, as the descending rings are more easily replaced.
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Srbphoto
Trad climber
Kennewick wa
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Feb 24, 2010 - 02:06pm PT
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What is an acceptable failure rate for welded shuts as lower off anchors?
If I'm climbing, zero. If your climbing, as many ground falls as you're willing and able to take.
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Feb 24, 2010 - 02:12pm PT
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Weld-it..... Zero failure is about right.
How are you testing em?
Are you the person who is putting in "new stations" at Stoney?
GK
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Prezwoodz
climber
Anchorage
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Feb 24, 2010 - 02:14pm PT
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For me I would say the acceptable rate for failure at regular loads is 0. If it breaks after 500lbs or so of pressure thats just not good enough. Also ive been climbing for 7 years or so and I still feel like a noob lots of the time. Its best not to think your a professional or anything to early, you stop learning that way.
Think about it this way, if your girlfriend was rappelling on it over and over again 300ft off the ground, Would you feel comfortable?
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rectorsquid
climber
Lake Tahoe
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Feb 24, 2010 - 02:14pm PT
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If done right, the welds will be as strong as the original metal. Weld certifications test for this and you should not be able to break the part at the weld any easier than you can break the part anywhere else. What welding technique and materials are you using? What are the parts made from? Is this fusion welding or some other technique like brazing (which is not appropriate for this type of application)?
Can you post pictures of the welds before and after failing?
Dave
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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Feb 24, 2010 - 02:25pm PT
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welded shuts are low budge junk. they wear out fast and are not too strong.
take the time to do it right and use far better systems available today.
ks
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Feb 24, 2010 - 02:28pm PT
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welded shuts are probably a bad idea for anchor set ups due to the above reasons listed above for 'cold shuts' (which you were not asking about cold shuts, to be clear here). If you are using stud anchor bolts (not my preferred anchor) and the shuts are easily removable, then there may be room for using them, but your welds must be (as mentioned above) equal in strength to the metal around them. I'm not a welder and I know this much.
if you list your test methods I'm sure there are plenty of smart folks here with plenty of climbing experience.
since this is your first post here, folks may think you are trolling. if you are so be it. but more info is needed to answer your question if not.
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jstan
climber
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Feb 24, 2010 - 02:31pm PT
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Weld-it:
What answer would give another who asks what you ask but who has climbed for one year and has taken no shop?
Would you feel that person was fully qualified to make decisions that potentially could cost you your life?
You are proposing something extremely serious. You need to know that.
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hagerty
Social climber
A Sandy Area South of a Salty Lake
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Feb 24, 2010 - 02:37pm PT
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And before you flame me, I know what I'm doing (3rd year of shop)...
Judging by your question, apparently not.
...and have been climbing a long time (2 years +)... No, you haven't. Not by a long shot.
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pud
climber
Sportbikeville
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Feb 24, 2010 - 02:43pm PT
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"What is an acceptable failure rate for welded shuts as lower off anchors? I've been welding some up in shop class and have since found out that the welds are not really that strong (at least the way I'm doing it LOL) Since there are always two at an anchor how big of a problem is this?
And before you flame me, I know what I'm doing (3rd year of shop) and have been climbing a long time (2 years +) so save your hate for someone else."[/]
No hate here my friend but if you have to ask questions like this on a public forum YOU SHOULD NOT BE CONSTRUCTING ANCHORS THAT WILL BE PLACED ANYWHERE.
Get your Welding license (Los Angeles City has the most stringent qualifications and is acknowledged worldwide) and your American Welding Society (AWS) Certification and you will know the answers to your questions.
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apogee
climber
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Feb 24, 2010 - 02:43pm PT
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And before you flame me, I know what I'm doing (3rd year of shop)...
...and have been climbing a long time (2 years +)...
Is this a troll?
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Feb 24, 2010 - 02:49pm PT
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apogee - bingo I think you should be nominated for todays taco Spot A Troll award!!
kev
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Feb 24, 2010 - 02:55pm PT
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welded shuts are non-accepted.
use climbing hardware not home depot hardware!
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androo.daveass
climber
Portland
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Feb 24, 2010 - 03:20pm PT
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So you want other people to trust their lives to something that you made in your high school shop class?
Please cut up your harness and take up free soloing. Maybe if you're core enough you can use all of your rappelling experience and do a free-solo-rappel too.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Feb 24, 2010 - 03:26pm PT
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I'd give it T2
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Feb 24, 2010 - 03:33pm PT
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GK: I think I know you from Stoney. My bro has placed some new bolts out there, but I think he took them out.
I think they fell out, it was pretty windy last tuesday.
So I wonder how the welded-shuts will hold up when the hi-liners put them to the "test".
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Feb 24, 2010 - 03:39pm PT
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The genius of this kind of troll is that a lot of nOObs I see at the crags today seem to have no problem declaring themselves seasoned climbers after only two years, so when you initially read something like that, there's a very good chance it might be genuine.
Bravo Batten.
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jstan
climber
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Feb 24, 2010 - 03:41pm PT
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This is probably the most effective attack on fixed protection I have seen.
Dang! Why didn't I think of this?
No. On second thought this will only mean there will be 100 color coded bolts at each station. If people were to put name tags on the anchors they had put in and so were willing to trust, they might get sued when they fail. So they all will be anonymously color coded. You could even encrypt your coding. Keep a record of blue here red there. Chris' topos could help us there. Blue at Suicide is good, red not so much.
But then there will be countermeasures. Someone can go up and paint everything blue. Belay that!. Red. Yes red. Definitely. Then all 100 will have to be replaced with graffiti resistant hardware.
Then what?
I'm thinking!
I'm thinking!
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Feb 24, 2010 - 03:55pm PT
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GK: I think I know you from Stoney. My bro has placed some new bolts out there, but I think he took them out.
Maybe we should as welder-boy's bro about his opinions on 3/8inch bolt removal. Could he maybe make a DIY page for us?
This is one of the funnier trolls of late though.
kev
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nature
climber
Tucson, AZ
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Feb 24, 2010 - 04:42pm PT
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"repelled for years"
Damn.... dude has been repelling ladies for years. I guess you might was well weld if you are not getting laid.
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Feb 24, 2010 - 04:47pm PT
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Weld-it,
Can your brother make a bolt removal tutorial for us? We'd love to see it!!!
Locker,
Play nice. This is a baby troll - it doesn't bite. Hell it doesn't even appear to have teeth....Lots of people here can chime in with how long they've found me repelling for.
kev
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apogee
climber
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Feb 24, 2010 - 04:57pm PT
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Did you 'repel' from one of your 'practis' welded shuts?
stooopid.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Feb 24, 2010 - 05:05pm PT
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Nature beat me to it.
Bastard.
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Feb 24, 2010 - 05:09pm PT
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Weld-it,
Got anymore camp photos. You user id camp photo is classic.
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mstearns
Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Feb 24, 2010 - 05:09pm PT
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The pictures that keep are appearing are priceless.
I can't believe how hilarious this thread has gotten in just a short time.
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bmacd
Trad climber
Beautiful BC
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Feb 24, 2010 - 05:11pm PT
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If you have any nude shots of your Mom, those should be posted too
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jstan
climber
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Feb 24, 2010 - 05:18pm PT
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Calling Lois. Calling Lois. You are needed over here.
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nature
climber
Tucson, AZ
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Feb 24, 2010 - 05:19pm PT
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LEB welds GUD
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nature
climber
Tucson, AZ
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Feb 24, 2010 - 05:38pm PT
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maybe Ragmeat decided to pay us a visit?
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Feb 24, 2010 - 05:44pm PT
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Damn it keep LEB out of this. Don't go and ruin a good post!
Weld-it,
Those are some rad lookin routes over at Northridge Fashion Center.
Did you have to take extra course work to guide there? How's the pay.
Do they tip well?
kev
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Ricardo Cabeza
climber
All Over.
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Feb 24, 2010 - 05:46pm PT
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I always thought you could just gorilla glue them shut instead of welding.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Feb 24, 2010 - 07:19pm PT
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Social... here's two pennies... buy a clue... lol.... todd gordon style posting.... for the... win.......
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EdBannister
Mountain climber
CA
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Feb 24, 2010 - 07:24pm PT
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funny but somehow twisted sad....
anyway:
SMC seamless rap rings, and this is off the top of my head from waaaaayyyy back, fail at a static load of 2200 lbs. two of those on two slings were enough to rap off of, but never lower, because they were too soft.
chains and stainless?? I'll leave that to someone more qualified on this short route lower me off tech...
somehow left wanting here: I kept expecting to read
"Yer Gonna Die"
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Feb 24, 2010 - 08:35pm PT
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Weld-it,
Where do I sign up! I bet you get laid alot huh?
kev
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nature
climber
Tucson, AZ
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Feb 24, 2010 - 08:36pm PT
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Rajmit has been one-upped.
LOL!!!!1111169
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MisterE
Social climber
Across Town From Easy Street
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Feb 24, 2010 - 09:10pm PT
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Really funny. Good ones, Weld-it.
:)
Seriously, the ABSOLUTE WORST are the open-shuts that people hammer shut. Makes the weakest point the very place where the rope runs...
Absolute inability to consider the consequences of one's actions = IDIOT.
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nature
climber
Tucson, AZ
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Feb 24, 2010 - 09:18pm PT
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It's been a long time since we had a good trolling.
Though this one is pretty pathetic it has a certain quality that I find sweet and endearing.
C'mon... tell us how old you're trying to be?
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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Feb 24, 2010 - 09:35pm PT
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You guys are easy. A climber from Chatsworth? Heeellllooooo!!!!!!!!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Feb 24, 2010 - 09:43pm PT
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best thread ever!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Feb 24, 2010 - 09:47pm PT
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leb is from florida?
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climbrunride
Sport climber
Purgatory
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Feb 24, 2010 - 10:08pm PT
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"me doing Loose Bowels, V0-"
hahahhaha
DAMMIT!
*spit beer on my keyboard!*
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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Feb 24, 2010 - 10:18pm PT
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I've been climbing for 32 years and welding for about 2....If one of my welds ever failed (usually structural) It would Knott be acceptable by any standards. Work on your welds and after you've logged a few routes on the Captain and Denali, let us know if your welds are still suspect.
Locker everybody knows the only thing from Florida are " Steers and Queers, and boy you don't look like a steer." Courtesy of the great "Gunny" himself.
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Larry
Trad climber
Bisbee
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Feb 24, 2010 - 11:13pm PT
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When you can explain the 3 sigma rule you will know the answer to "What is an acceptable failure rate for welded shuts as lower off anchors?".
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Feb 24, 2010 - 11:29pm PT
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Hey Weld_it,
Who left the dog turd on your shop project?
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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Feb 24, 2010 - 11:34pm PT
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though I spotted it and KNEW it was a "TROLL" the moment I read it...
You just never know...
We have a "CLIMBER" from Florida that posts on this "CLIMBERS FORUM"...
Does Batten have to hit you guys over the head with a UCLA coed before you get it?
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Feb 24, 2010 - 11:38pm PT
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But I got to say
dog turd!
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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Feb 25, 2010 - 12:04am PT
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So true!
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Shack
Big Wall climber
Reno NV
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Feb 25, 2010 - 12:22am PT
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Weld_it = Russ?
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nature
climber
Tucson, AZ
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Feb 25, 2010 - 12:26am PT
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this is such a bad troll. Breaks four of the first five rools of trolling.
It's not Russ. Dude's way better than this.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 25, 2010 - 02:52am PT
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Can you let us know which climbing certificates you have?
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Shack
Big Wall climber
Reno NV
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Feb 25, 2010 - 03:43am PT
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"Climbing is more than just clippin bolts and hatin' yo."
Werd homie!
"I am doing the Nose this Spring and totally going to do some anchor replacement."
Yea, you could hook up with Nanook.
BTW.."resting at the crux of radness"... Friggin' classic!!
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Feb 25, 2010 - 08:28am PT
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It's all good bro. ...
Climbing is more than just clippin bolts and hatin' yo.
Holy crap! It's Lynne!!!
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Under the Macabre Roof
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Feb 25, 2010 - 08:30am PT
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Cool no hands rest, man.
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Feb 25, 2010 - 11:30am PT
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I donno, I think he's not resting. He's just starting one radass dyno.
Weld-it,
Maybe you should come out to shuteye and help us with new route development. Also talk to Werner - i'm sure he'd love to have you on his team...especially with your repelling skills! That keeps the bears away too!
Locker and Russ,
Don't one of you have a spot open for an intern? Hook up a brah!
kev
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Jim E
climber
away
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Feb 25, 2010 - 01:04pm PT
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Just for more laughs...
What is an acceptable failure rate for welded shuts as lower off anchors?
OK... define failure. At what load?
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nature
climber
Tucson, AZ
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Feb 25, 2010 - 01:18pm PT
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Do some more weed
ho' man!
That sounds like something this guy would say, yo!
I love the well placed misspeelings. But sadly it's one of the troll give aways.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Feb 25, 2010 - 01:40pm PT
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Weld,
Keep up the good work bra! This is good stuff!
I fear you might have your machine set a little hot though,
you're getting a little too much 'penetration'.
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Feb 25, 2010 - 03:21pm PT
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"What is an acceptable failure rate for welded shuts as lower off anchors? I've been welding some up in shop class and have since found out that the welds are not really that strong (at least the way I'm doing it LOL) Since there are always two at an anchor how big of a problem is this? And before you flame me, I know what I'm doing (3rd year of shop) and have been climbing a long time (2 years +) so save your hate for someone else."
ROTFLMAO - THIS IS A BORED RUSS WALLING AS ANOTHER PERSONA! BWAHHHHHAA!
You dudes were trolled! Dude says he's: "have been climbing a long time (2 years +) so save your hate for someone else"
BWAHHHHHAA!
LOL -profile picture - LOL
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nature
climber
Tucson, AZ
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Feb 25, 2010 - 03:23pm PT
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Uh couch... most of us realized this is a troll.
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Feb 25, 2010 - 03:24pm PT
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oh...
nevermind ...
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nature
climber
Tucson, AZ
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Feb 25, 2010 - 03:25pm PT
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actually... it took until the 15th post when apogee asked. Locker knew. It was obvious to me. But yeah... bit of a stringer Russ has running. :-)
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jstan
climber
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Feb 25, 2010 - 03:35pm PT
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Apogee first asked the question on post 16. A couple posts later Locker, as usual, put his high reputation on the line.
We have first rate data showing no one reads preceeding posts. New people will still be falling in at post 500.
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divad
Trad climber
wmass
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Feb 25, 2010 - 04:36pm PT
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I think we got us a refugee from rc.com
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nature
climber
Tucson, AZ
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Feb 25, 2010 - 04:58pm PT
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OK then Weld_it... if you are not a troll then the one thing you can to to help people out:
Stop welding. You obviously suck at it.
though I will say good luck with getting AMGA certified. you probably don't stand a chance but hey... what do I care.
Otherwise... keep on with the trolling. The crazy thing is there's still a few more fishes.
HEY!!!! IT LOOKS LIKE CHUM!!!!
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MisterE
Social climber
Across Town From Easy Street
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Feb 25, 2010 - 05:05pm PT
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Mmmm....chum sushi! Do you have something in Campbell river sockeye? ;)
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nature
climber
Tucson, AZ
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Feb 25, 2010 - 05:10pm PT
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I love the Karl Baba signature "PEace". Troll is trying a little too hard. But with this crew that doesn't really matter. Ragmeat use to troll the sh#t outta this place. It was obvious yet an embarrassing number of Tacostanderers kept biting. He's the king. This is weak sauce compared.
Campbell river Sockeye chum. I'll order some just for you. There's a place in Compton I think I can get it. I hear they also are a weld supply shop. Go figure, eh?
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xtrmecat
Big Wall climber
Kalispell, Montanagonia
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Feb 25, 2010 - 06:00pm PT
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Dude, chum/sushi or not. Stop welding things that people need to stay alive. As a tradesman since high school, your work is nowhere near ready to go out into mainstream anything. It really is bad. Your trolling is almost as bad. And guides usually get interviewed by clients, even slow thinking nieve ones. And I doubt you are ready for an interview, let alone something like picking "the Nose".
Bob
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Feb 25, 2010 - 06:04pm PT
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xtremities,
Leave our pet troll alone. We like weld-it.
Is that a rifle in the background in your pic. You been hangin with Minerals or Mucci?
kev
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Feb 25, 2010 - 07:44pm PT
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Weld-it,
Is this really your chosen career path?
If you ever do figure out how to run a decent bead you might consider this;
Welders are the whores of the construction industry.
All they ever do is complain that they need,
More rod,
More heat,
and More money.
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MisterE
Social climber
Across Town From Easy Street
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Feb 25, 2010 - 09:06pm PT
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^^LOL^^
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Shack
Big Wall climber
Reno NV
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Feb 25, 2010 - 09:11pm PT
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and I love that 3/4"? drill bit! Hahahaha!
Dood, that's a schweet rig, bro.
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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Feb 25, 2010 - 09:13pm PT
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My favorite Weld:
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climbrunride
Sport climber
Purgatory
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Feb 25, 2010 - 09:15pm PT
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"What is an acceptable failure rate for welded shuts as lower off anchors?"
Depends on a lot of factors.
-Like which state are you in? In CA, 50% to 75% should be fine. There are plenty of other climbers to replace those who find some of those bad welds. In ND, not so many climbers, so maybe only 20% failure rate would cut it. And in FL, best to keep it to about 0.05%, since there is only one climber in the whole state.
-And how many shuts are you placing at an anchor. One, two, three? Ten is actually a pretty safe number and helps the rope to run really smooth too.
-Failure is such an ethereal term. How do you define it? Because everything comes apart at some point. If you design each one for a lifespan of 50 lowers-off, then if it breaks on the 53 rEppel, then it didn't fail, it was merely past its expected lifetime. The 51st and 52nd people to rap off it got a total bonus!
But don't worry too much about that stuff for now - they should cover most of it all in the fourth year of shop.
Hope this helps.
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nature
climber
Tucson, AZ
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Feb 25, 2010 - 09:33pm PT
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Geeezus Marty.... do you even read? This guy is a troll (and a bad one at that). Why bother?!?!?! (good tips though ;-)
There isn't much you can learn from Batten but trolling.... oh wait. I mean Ragmeat. Or LEB DMT Russ Walling.
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Feb 26, 2010 - 11:31am PT
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Hahahah, love the shot of the naked chic with the cut saw, she's using a $30 ryobee - classic.
kev
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nature
climber
Tucson, AZ
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Feb 26, 2010 - 11:44am PT
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I'm sorry weld... I didn't realize that being entertained by your troll made me a loser. But you're a sharp kid and I'm sorta dumb so I'll just put my loser tail between my legs and go back to not being entertained.
you too medusa... "L"oser ;-)
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Feb 26, 2010 - 06:16pm PT
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I'm with you locker. Funniest troll ever!
kev
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nature
climber
Tucson, AZ
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Feb 26, 2010 - 06:24pm PT
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mentally... yes... absolutely. Why do you ask?
hey locker... you know you've posted to this thread more than I have. that makes you a bigger "L"oser. We should celebrate with a bowl.
This troll is pretty funny. I cracked up with the picture of his Asian "homies".
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climbrunride
Sport climber
Purgatory
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Feb 26, 2010 - 11:56pm PT
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* can't stop laughing *
-and it's not just the vodka-
I think this troll is so funny partly because of the unsophisticated Nature of it. Even I can get it LOL. We all come together at this virtual campfire and have this e-relationship to each other, but lame s#!t like this Weld_It all together for us.
I'm going to WalMart at midnight and buying me a welder!!! Do they sell hardware too?
EDIT: maybe I shud get a designated driver. LOCKER - ya anywhere near Durango???
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Damn it - knew I needed to hang the 'the mart' more often...
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Kev, I said....
GET BACK TO WORK
NOW!
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Yes sir masser....
:)
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Mason
Trad climber
Yay Area
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GDavis:
OMG! I hate Simon Cowell, too!!
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Mason
Trad climber
Yay Area
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Sorry to all the detectives out there, but I'm not "russ". I'm jess a guy trying out some knew ideas and looking for advice. Runnin g into all ya'll haters I guess was exepted.
PEace
kat in the hat LOL
kat in the hat LOL
Credit: Weld_it
Lynne??
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Ricardo Cabeza
climber
All Over.
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Weld-it wrote;
'Why you rollin the hate trane bra?'
One of the funniest lines ever!
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
Will know soon
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Not likely, I won't even belay half the time.
I have learned alot tho from this Thread. When I top rope and there are bolts etc. for anchors I will be SUR to ask whoever sets the rope if anything up there was welded. If it is......I'm watchin. I don't trust welds. Period. Especially after reading this Thread. lynnie
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
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Mar 16, 2010 - 09:33am PT
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RUST! That's been my experience. It's not the strength of the weld but how do you finish it? There's no way. Even if you had it powder coated. Welds rust fast.
I did not take the time to read through the entire post, sorry if I missed something.
Arne
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Mar 16, 2010 - 12:08pm PT
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bad belays kill more people that bad welds.
Worth remembering and repeating - heh heh..Snicker....
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Peenemunde
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Mar 16, 2010 - 07:07pm PT
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Weld-It we still up for the Nose. I plan to chop a bolt on Pitch 3. But the anchors down from Sickle could use some of your welded shunts.
Juan
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The LG
Sport climber
Salt Lake City
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Mar 17, 2010 - 02:46pm PT
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Check this link for an official rundown of "cold shut" specs from a group of climbing engineers. I've been climbing for "a long time" (15+ years) and I've certainly lowered off of welded shuts as well as double open shuts. The problem isn't that that they have a certain percentage or chance of failing, what seems to be the real pickle is that when they fail, it's more or less catastrophic. Ask yourself when placing anchors, will these last for the next twenty years? Or better yet, will these anchors that I just placed fail and kill someone? Food for thought....
http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/journal/climb/qclab/qc-lab-worn-anchors
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Mar 17, 2010 - 02:48pm PT
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LG you lack the ability to read don't you...Read the thread, the whole thread, and nothing but the thread!
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Mimi
climber
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Apr 29, 2010 - 12:29am PT
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With welds like those, your brains will be one with the rocks of Yosemite and Tahquitz. Like the jagged ones at the bottom.
Give it up jackass!!
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Mimi
climber
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Apr 29, 2010 - 12:33am PT
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Oh, please let's see your new welds. Are they nice and bubbly?
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Mimi
climber
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Apr 29, 2010 - 12:38am PT
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OMG! HOw many weeks did it take for those to cool down?! Dang!
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chez
Social climber
chicago ill
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Apr 29, 2010 - 12:45am PT
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I be weldin it he be they be she be duh. i tink my synapse be welded yo!
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Apr 29, 2010 - 12:52am PT
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Geez, and to think I've seen some good welding in the shipyards of Seattle and the Alaskan Pipeline. WHOA! - I bow and scrape in awe!
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Mimi
climber
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Apr 29, 2010 - 12:56am PT
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Dem welds be bowin' and scrapin' too! Yo!
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Shack
Big Wall climber
Reno NV
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Apr 29, 2010 - 01:04am PT
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If Weld_it isn't Russ, then we may have a new contender for "funiest poster" on ST.
I mean come on, you gotta admit, this picture is pretty f'in funny.
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Mimi
climber
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Apr 29, 2010 - 01:09am PT
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Dat be Weld-it's beotch!? No way yo!
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Shack
Big Wall climber
Reno NV
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Apr 29, 2010 - 01:09am PT
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Oh boy, she looks like a stick welder to me.
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Mimi
climber
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Apr 29, 2010 - 01:30am PT
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That's not Russ. He often looks like this in public. He requires a cloak to conceal his incomparable manhood.
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Lost Arrow
Trad climber
The North Ridge of the San Fernando
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Apr 29, 2010 - 04:49am PT
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weld it i am serious about the Nose.
Email me.
Juan
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Apr 29, 2010 - 10:28am PT
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weld_it like many I am deeply enjoying your posts. Good stuff.
Earlier you mention you climbed trad for 2 years. I for one would love to hear you tell a tale from one of your days out trad climbing.
If the anchor gig doesn't pan out perhaps you could weld trad gear?
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Jingy
Social climber
Nowhere
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Apr 29, 2010 - 10:49am PT
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troll?
"I've been making these shuts in shop class... do you guys think I can use them for saving my life?"
good one
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Hawkeye
climber
State of Mine
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Apr 29, 2010 - 01:04pm PT
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good one weld it!
how does one go about getting your autograph? i know it may be premature at this time but i know someday you will be as famous as that charmin dude oh i mean sharma! hehe
by the way nice nuts! you dont swing both ways do you?
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Apr 29, 2010 - 01:18pm PT
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weld_it, gotta say you post some great stuff, a true diversion from the work day. Even caught myself saying "radness" in the office.
Thanks for clearing up what it means to "free solo", all this time I thought it was a catchy line from Return of the Jedi.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Apr 30, 2010 - 03:49pm PT
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towing capacity, unlimited!!!!
This is why I weld. Err, read teh taco.
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Jongy
Gym climber
Ciudad Juárez, Ch Mexico
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My pops was a welder for 22 years. You should email him your question. Your work is sorta ok. He might consider an apprentice. He lives in Chattanooga. Goes by the name of Billy.
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Shack
Big Wall climber
Reno NV
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Dood, that "free solo" stuff is way rad.
Hey, you should do Half Dome!
Half Dome
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Weld_It is my new Supertopo Hero.
Would you please come with your welding torch to save me from some morons? Perhaps fire will eradicate them.
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Shack
Big Wall climber
Reno NV
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Weld_It is my new Supertopo Hero.
For sure. Weld_it is already ST Hall of Fame material.
Maybe he will post more often if he's not too busy welding bongs in shop class.
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Shack
Big Wall climber
Reno NV
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LOL Classic®©
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Shack
Big Wall climber
Reno NV
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Hey Weld_it... I think T*R is feelin yer radness, and she's single....
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James Doty
Trad climber
Idyllwild, Ca.
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Chet and Scooter, f*#kin killing me. Ready to haul pic had me in tears.
Sitting here at 1am laughing my ass off by myself. Thanks Weldit.
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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nice work there Locker...ol' weld_it rappin' Lembert Dome, beautiful, hahaha
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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El Cap can be pretty rough, have you been practicing your hauls yet? I try to make sure to haul at least 1/2 dozen or so tires during the day, depending on how much time i haev.
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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get your mind off the GF by posting up some more pictures from your trad climbs.
I'll go get another beer...
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Shack
Big Wall climber
Reno NV
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Nice work!
LMFAO!
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crazy horse
Trad climber
seattle, wa
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most commercially made biners are stretched to 50ish percent of their breaking stregnth before they are sold, every last one of them.
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The Enforcer
Trad climber
The Pit of Hell
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May 11, 2010 - 06:25pm PT
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Weld-it,
You've got sack! Will you come worship at the Church of the Fish and help destroy the off topic heathens?
The Enforcer
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
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May 11, 2010 - 07:49pm PT
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Best St Thread.... Period
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 11, 2010 - 08:17pm PT
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As long as those piercings were done with a sterilized Star Dryvin Nail, I think the little nimrod's onto something!?!?!
Werner said that HE would clip in!
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Mimi
climber
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May 14, 2010 - 09:36pm PT
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Space Stations are classic. Total radness! The essence of all things metal yo!
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nature
climber
Tucson, AZ
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May 14, 2010 - 11:10pm PT
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hey Weld_it. I have a bunch of bolts for sale. Check my FS thread. you could really help out the community with the pile I have. I hear there's a few cracks in Josh that need rebolting.
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chez
Social climber
chicago ill
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May 14, 2010 - 11:35pm PT
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Ive got 2 boxes of cold shuts for ya if ya want em, just pay shipping.
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chez
Social climber
chicago ill
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May 15, 2010 - 12:32am PT
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cheap im in mammoth ca
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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May 15, 2010 - 12:34am PT
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You'll have to pay extra if you want it shipped via Wolf City, Wyoming, or Poofter's Froth.
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
Sprocketville
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May 15, 2010 - 12:36am PT
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you need 80-20 or 95-5, non of that CO2 crap, unless you Like microscopic fizzures,
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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May 15, 2010 - 12:47am PT
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crag hag
Mountain climber
foresta ca
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May 18, 2010 - 06:13pm PT
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I recently met Weld-it in his shop and you can take it from me he works around the clock. He is truly dedicated to welding.
I told him he might want to invest in some saftey equipment though, like new gloves.
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crag hag
Mountain climber
foresta ca
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May 18, 2010 - 06:32pm PT
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He and his dad Frank have a lot in common.
They both reallly love welding!!!two peas in a pod
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crag hag
Mountain climber
pacoima ca
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May 19, 2010 - 04:50pm PT
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We met at a bar in the valley called the tonga hut. They teach dancing thereanyhoo... he told me he was getting into this thing called rappeling and did I want to go sometime.
You use ropes and stuff. Sounded pretty cool.He also said he was a welder.
Wow!!!!!
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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May 19, 2010 - 05:01pm PT
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I thought I read in one of the climbing mags that too much rappelling can cause one to have a "low T" count. Prolly just a rumor tho'.
...speaking of rappelling, I am reminded of a funny part in the Huber bros Am Limit where two El Cap rappers meet up with the Hubers..."We rappel El Capitan every year," says one of the guys, "It's a tradition."
The Hubers look at one another with a WTF? expression and then casually say, "Yeah, El Cap has good anchors."
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crag hag
Mountain climber
pacoima ca
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May 19, 2010 - 11:12pm PT
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Well, we went to Stoney Point near his house and I met some of his friends He looked pretty cool in his costume!
I have since heard that a lot of accidents happen when rappeling and I sure can belive it after what I saw that day
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Major Boobage
climber
Hooters
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May 19, 2010 - 11:38pm PT
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This one's for you Weld_it!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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May 20, 2010 - 12:57am PT
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Bro!........ like what happened to "Arizona Jones"?
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crag hag
Mountain climber
pacoima ca
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May 20, 2010 - 05:33pm PT
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I was pretty scared after watching the other rappers so weld it says to me do you want to go someplace else and try it.
So I said sure thing I was thinking his man can looked pretty good in his outfit and well you know how it is......
Anyhoo we head to this place and he makes us put on these other outfits,
Thats me on the bottom. I think I was really getting the hang of it... get it????hang of it. Ha ha LOL
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crag hag
Mountain climber
pacoima ca
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May 20, 2010 - 05:46pm PT
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so then he got a phone call and said he had to go to work but I could come and watch if I wanted to cause I would find it real interesting.
So I say sure thing I'm there.
And It was reallllllllllllllll interesting if you like watching mannequins!
This took him foreverrrrrrrrrrrrrr.
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crag hag
Mountain climber
pacoima ca
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May 20, 2010 - 07:13pm PT
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He said we should try climbing sometime even though he said he was a much better rappler.
Soooooooooo we went back to Stoney Point. That is where I got my nick name.
Weldy says We were at a crag and that I was kind of a hag.
So wha laaa Crag Hag!!!!
Besides it is better than the other nicknames I heard like Britney swallows or the yetti or the
c#m-dumpster!!!!!!! eweieee
Man he sure looked good in his harness that day!!!
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Major Boobage
climber
Hooters
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May 20, 2010 - 11:07pm PT
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ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh....................
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crag hag
Mountain climber
pacoima ca
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May 21, 2010 - 01:08pm PT
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Major boobage needs his mommy.
I guess you got taken off the tit tooooooooooo early!!!!!!!!!!!
No they are not for you!!!!
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crag hag
Mountain climber
pacoima ca
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May 21, 2010 - 02:35pm PT
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Hey welder manRemember you booted me off your my space thingy.
I was devistated dudeThe you came over to my house and got into it with my momThe dogs were confused tooNow YOU say you thought we had a good thing going....
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crag hag
Mountain climber
pacoima ca
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May 27, 2010 - 11:05am PT
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Hey Weldy,
I just wanted to let you know I am over it!!
I never wanted to bug you on your site thingy.
I really wanted to say good job on your welding project at Stoney.
I think it is going to be great when there are shuts over ever root there.
That way you will be able to rappel any where you want!!!!
later days my old pal!!
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crag hag
Mountain climber
pacoima ca
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May 27, 2010 - 09:31pm PT
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I was there but where were you????
I guess your buzy at your class!!
Wow that looks fun...... not!
Anyhow I went out to Stoney and met this really cool dude named Jongy!
He just got into town from T.J. and thinks he might stick around for awhile
He is way into something new called grid bolting.
It lets you climb wherever you want . you just clip your beaners into the bolts and go!!!
He said he was planning on spraying some in at Stoney and I am going to help him.. anyhoo, I am going to be kinda buzy now so well I guess I will see you around.
C.G.
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Jongy
Gym climber
Ciudad Juárez, Ch Mexico
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May 27, 2010 - 11:37pm PT
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cool meeting you out at Stony. I think I'll stay. Bouldering at Stoney is almost like climbing on a real climbing wall. It's just not really grate but its really fun.
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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May 27, 2010 - 11:38pm PT
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you cats should post a TR
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crag hag
Mountain climber
pacoima ca
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May 28, 2010 - 12:37am PT
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that's easy! My last T R was Hot Tuna Butrass at stoney.
the one bofre that is top secrect!!!
Hey Jongy,
I'm glad you are sticking around maybe WE could do a T R together!!!
C H
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Jongy
Gym climber
Ciudad Juárez, Ch Mexico
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May 28, 2010 - 12:45am PT
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That sounds cool.
but whats a T R?
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Fritz
Trad climber
Hagerman, ID
|
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May 28, 2010 - 12:52am PT
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Weld IT! You da BOMB!!
I looked at this thread way back----and had no idea, until tonight, what a "gift to the climbing world you are."
Best of all!!-----260 + posts and the usual "bickerers" have not shown up to argue with your profound truths.
You da dude and da bomb!
Oh! The nurses at the "Old Climbers Home" think you are someone they want to know!
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crag hag
Mountain climber
pacoima ca
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May 28, 2010 - 01:03am PT
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this is it!
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nature
climber
Tucson, AZ
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May 28, 2010 - 01:07am PT
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Where's Pate?
Those nurses will get him all hot and bothered.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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May 28, 2010 - 01:15am PT
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crag hag -- the hydrogen - oxygen variable vectored rocket engines are DECOYS - I need help with this - I need the truth.
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Oxymoron
Big Wall climber
total Disarray
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May 28, 2010 - 01:17am PT
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Truth! Hope you brought a good sieve.
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crag hag
Mountain climber
pacoima ca
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May 28, 2010 - 10:30am PT
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Well Fummy,
You came to the right person, my other job is a rocket scientist.
Rocket engines give part of their thrust .... overall vector that is required, giving only a very small penalty; fixed engines ..... oxygen) are introduced into a combustion chamber in variable mixture ...
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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May 28, 2010 - 11:22am PT
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What do rocket engines have to do with welding and cold shuts?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 28, 2010 - 12:36pm PT
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Is Hammer your Daddy?!?
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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May 28, 2010 - 12:40pm PT
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grag hag I'm starten to feel better it was a rough nite. I want me a truth detector - I need it - I must have it
reilly want don't rocket engines & cold shuts have in common?
they are both at the cutting egde of something
ask weld-it he's deffenantly cutting something with them tourches
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crag hag
Mountain climber
pacoima ca
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May 28, 2010 - 02:12pm PT
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Hey Jongy,
Want to meet up later at Stoney for some
Ps.I don't have your phone number.
Crag Hag
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Fritz
Trad climber
Hagerman, ID
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May 28, 2010 - 09:22pm PT
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Bump for "Truth & Light!"
"Crag hag" You da bombette! (kinda like a bimbette and a bomb---with the best qualities of each.)
Nature: Re Where's Pate?
Those nurses will get him all hot and bothered.
I worry that Pate is getting a little too old and serious for "cutting edge" threads like this.
Poor Guy.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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May 28, 2010 - 09:29pm PT
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I don't need no sieve I got a stick.
rockets help with grid bolt-en.its faster
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crag hag
Mountain climber
pacoima ca
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May 28, 2010 - 10:24pm PT
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Hey fritz,
Wow, man thanks for the compliment. I'm glad to see rocket science chicks are still appreciated in this community. oh yeah and frumy, I got some great ideas to spray them in a bunch at a time.
I got to find weld-it and use his skills to modify the rocket parameters such as payload and fuel mass, and calculate the rocket's launch trajectory.
Hey Jongy,
I lurked around boulder 1 today but you were a no show. I think we should make a defininate plan this memorial day weekend to do some bolting!!!
Yea!!! I think everyone will be super stoked.
everyone!!!
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crag hag
Mountain climber
pacoima ca
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May 29, 2010 - 05:39pm PT
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Hey Jongy,
What about tomorrow.
I think that would be the prefect day for bolting there are sure to be a lot of peeps around and they will be sooooooooooooo happy
they will all look up to us!!!
pssssss.
nice hats!!!
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Fritz
Trad climber
Hagerman, ID
|
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May 29, 2010 - 08:02pm PT
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Pate: Thank You! I'm glad you agree!
It's no prob to cover for you while you "whip up" on everyone else.
Thought this ad might be of interest.
Or maybe it's time to "push back" from the keyboard" and go torture trout?
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Fritz
Trad climber
Hagerman, ID
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May 29, 2010 - 09:07pm PT
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Pate: Good! That Thorazine tab, and thinking of torturing trout must have calmed you.
Take two Pervitin.
Dream of naked trout.
There are secret streams in Idontno, where you won't see another "fish torturer" in days.
"Torture and Release." waters.
Native cuts or bows.
Back to "Cold Shuts."
The family small biz I grew up in: was a welding shop. My "old man" got to cut up the shotgun Hemmingway suicided with.
Never made cold shuts though.
Have I really been Pwned? Remember: WGACA!
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Mimi
climber
|
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Weld_it dude! Your gleaming ass is soooo out now that I've found this commissioned portrait of you at work. At work, making a mess out of all that steel. LOL!
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nature
climber
Tucson, AZ
|
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Weld it has a rather smooth man-can. No wonder his girl is pregnant.
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Fritz
Trad climber
Hagerman, ID
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Weld It & Crag Hag make a lovely couple.
"Weld together forever!"
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Hey Bro,
If that other preggers skank is yankin your chain too hard ya mite wanna
chek out this hotty. Sounds like she's also 'certified'!
Just in case ya wanna see what she can do with that mike:
http://www.myspace.com/onetuffwelderchick
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
|
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May 20, 2011 - 12:18pm PT
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bump - I'd like to know.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
|
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bump - for Weld_it's great question.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
Jul 11, 2011 - 03:47pm PT
|
There is more than one way to skin a cat........
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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
|
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Feb 21, 2013 - 05:53pm PT
|
bump
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
|
|
Feb 21, 2013 - 05:59pm PT
|
Anyone ever hear of someone toproping through open shuts, only to have the rope jump the shuts and suddenly be free soloing?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Feb 21, 2013 - 06:12pm PT
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elcapinyo,
good physics question. could a curly rope cause a twist that might jump the shuts?
(not directed at anyone in particular) regardless, not a great idea to TR thru shuts directly. I tend to use a clove hitch sling to connect to the shuts to set an anchor. Very low chance of a clove hitch loosening enough to slip off, but really shuts are horseshit in general. Mussy's are convenient, but usually I won't TR thru them. Btw, where the hell is Weld-it?
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Feb 21, 2013 - 08:00pm PT
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Yow. Well, it's good to see that you reacted calmly when you saw the
situation. Never can tell about those things.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Feb 21, 2013 - 08:33pm PT
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Munge, it can happen in practice, according to 3rd/4th-hand account from way back (early '90s?) at Owens. A climber was just reaching the shuts when the twisting rope popped out of both. Stayed calm, passed the rope back through, lowered.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Feb 22, 2013 - 01:26am PT
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That would be a mighty uncomfy spot. Good to confirm what I suspected. That they are no good.
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MisterE
Social climber
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May 11, 2013 - 01:49am PT
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3 months tomorrow since we heard from Weld_It, hope the shuts held up.
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Tobia
Social climber
Denial
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May 11, 2013 - 05:03am PT
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6 months tomorrow since we heard from Weld_It, hope the shuts held up.
No, he is just posting under his other (original avatar).
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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May 11, 2013 - 09:38am PT
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Oh...?
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climbrunride
Sport climber
Golf Wall, CO
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May 11, 2013 - 12:23pm PT
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I just re-read the Weld_It's original post. Still one of the best posts ever! haha
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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May 11, 2013 - 04:37pm PT
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A nation in need --- A nation waits
WHERE IS THAT WELD_IT.
I'm afraid he may have found the failure rate of two weld shuts.
Please Weld_it, if you survive the Taco needs you.
This place is hella boring without you.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Oct 22, 2013 - 12:50am PT
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Glad to hear you are sending! AT LAST.
PM me when you get back. I'd like you to do a slide show of your trip and experiences for AAC/SCMA/CTAC/SCSM/SOWR/BSA meetings. Not too many pictures of the wild flowers and ugly local tribespeople, mostly the raddness will do, plus summit victory salute. Crying into your GoPro at 7800M okay.
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MisterE
climber
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Oct 22, 2013 - 01:05am PT
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We have a hero's welcome waiting for you in Chatsworth when you get back - hoping the Sat phone can receive the message...
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Oct 22, 2013 - 11:06am PT
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Weld-it, how did the baby thing work out? Is one of these yours?
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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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Jan 23, 2014 - 01:29am PT
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we've not heard from weld_it since his sat fone cut out. Fear the worst?
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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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Jan 23, 2014 - 11:27am PT
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IT'S ALIVE!!!
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Jan 29, 2014 - 08:32pm PT
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been out in the sticks for a week … weld-it is raging?
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RP3
Big Wall climber
Sonora
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Jan 29, 2014 - 10:02pm PT
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HAHAHA!
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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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Jan 30, 2014 - 01:38am PT
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Weld_it == The Elephant Man?
Ho Man!
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rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Feb 18, 2014 - 07:40pm PT
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What ever happened on K2?
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Feb 18, 2014 - 09:14pm PT
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Not half as much as in Patagonia! Rock (pedal) on Mike!
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kunlun_shan
Mountain climber
SF, CA
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May 28, 2019 - 01:33am PT
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What did happen on K2? Anyone?
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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May 28, 2019 - 10:59am PT
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One of my favorite threads of all time. Supertopo's superstar Troll.
He sounds so much like Russ Walling but there was evidence that not.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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May 28, 2019 - 11:01am PT
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He topped out... sent a morse code message to the forum from the summit... I think he is a big SeaOrg guy now.
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