Essence

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Messages 1 - 16 of total 16 in this topic
martygarrison

Trad climber
The Great North these days......
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 11, 2010 - 01:04am PT
So how many folks have hiked up to do this classic 11 in the valley? I always thought it was one of the best for the grade.....speak up!
WBraun

climber
Feb 11, 2010 - 11:42am PT
Marty

No one does this route.

It's too far to walk and it's unknown ......
hossjulia

Social climber
Eastside
Feb 11, 2010 - 11:46am PT
Intriguing name.
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Feb 11, 2010 - 11:51am PT
A Werner and Don Reid route up past Split Pinnacle. Up in Eagle creek canyon. It does look good, too. One could do that and the East Arete route on Split Pinnacle (a great 5.8/5.10c route) on the same trip. It is a hike.
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
Why'djya leave the ketchup on the table?
Feb 11, 2010 - 11:57am PT
Stu showed it to me Marty. He said a lot of great things about it but we never went up past Split to give it a try. Always thought that formation looked weird the way the rock slid off the pedestal.

DMT
hoipolloi

climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
Feb 11, 2010 - 03:51pm PT
climbing bump



i haven't but I am interested!
martygarrison

Trad climber
The Great North these days......
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 11, 2010 - 06:24pm PT
Folks it's a great day adventure. Pretty hard trudge up there but when you arrive rest assured you will be alone. Two pitches of really nice 11b, great views and a feeling that the Valley is yours alone. This climb should be high on everyones list!
Levy

Big Wall climber
So Cal
Feb 11, 2010 - 07:14pm PT
I've always wanted to go up there to do that.


Anybody got some pictures??

Anybody??
mountain dog

Trad climber
Feb 11, 2010 - 09:19pm PT
Never knew about Essence but now I want to know. Did Split Pinnacle in '98 and it is worth repeating in my opinion. Don't wear your helmet in the chimney and watch for stuck ropes on the rappels.
martygarrison

Trad climber
The Great North these days......
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 11, 2010 - 09:42pm PT
I would do the hike and essence then do split pin on the way down....if you have any gas left. I know for me the hike up, climb multiple 11b pitches then hike down was enough for this old man.
G Murphy

Trad climber
Oakland CA
Feb 12, 2010 - 12:39pm PT
Peter Coward and I did it awhile back. Long steep approahc, but fabulous route. Steep 1st pitch, nice second pitch with off fingers crux. You will have the place to yourself, that's for sure.
Alexey

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Jun 15, 2010 - 01:45pm PT
bump with question:
any advices for approach to Essence - except of written in the book?
Do not want to spent all day trying to find the route. And ruff time to approach nice to know too
WBraun

climber
Jun 15, 2010 - 02:35pm PT
Advice on the approach?

You start hiking up there step by step, inch by inch.

I don't know any other way to do it .....
Alexey

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Jun 15, 2010 - 03:20pm PT
Werner, sometimes it works, sometimes not....

edit: I had several instances where I spent a lot of time to find obscure route and not climb it same day- because it was too late
WBraun

climber
Jun 15, 2010 - 03:51pm PT
Alexey

I looked at the cliff from the road and figured out an approach from that perspective.

Good luck ....
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Jun 15, 2010 - 03:58pm PT
Any pix Werner?

Sounds good.
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