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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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I just have the one left. Gave the rest to friends.
You can make the easily if you have a buddy who has a milling machine. The aluminum is very easy to work...
You can pretty much get the dimensions from my pics, or email me and I'll measure the thing up and send you the details. Notice of course that the beak sticks out further than the feet. This is key. It is also a variable you can play with if you make a few.
Also, the use of the wired nut at an angle puts inward pressure on the feet.
It really works (except when it doesn't...)
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 9, 2010 - 09:40pm PT
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OH YEaH Todd!
"Look Ma, no hands!!!"
Classic.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
obsessively minitracking all winter at Knob Hill
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Kris, that hook is sweet!
Seam Stress looks dicey...nice work there. Voyager, over on the left end?
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socalbolter
Sport climber
Silverado, CA
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Todd -
I don't have many pics, despite how many bolts I placed from hooks over the years. You on the other hand, have many pics I'm sure. Please share with us...
 Louie
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 9, 2010 - 11:22pm PT
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Louie- That pic of you with that tipped out skyhook is spooky!
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socalbolter
Sport climber
Silverado, CA
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I'm mainly a rap bolter these days (due primarily to the choss I choose to bolt), but I do have very fond memories of being scared to death either stance drilling or trusting sketchy hooks. This thread has shown me that I'm not the only one who relishes this special type of fear.
Thank you to everyone for sharing your experiences, and for taking the time to give us all more climbing options by bolting in the first place. I, and the community at large, thank you.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Feb 10, 2010 - 12:26am PT
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I hate hooks!
Climb up steep knobs where anything good might break, forearms flaming from overcrimping and the two 3/8" bolts you just hand-drilled in granite, find a hook placement (but of course anything hookable is even more likely to snap!), screw around finding the hook, unclip it, pull it up and it catches on your harness and you almost drop it, fiddle with it to get it free, bring it up to grab with your teeth, switch hands, try to shake out but if you could really shake out you wouldn't need the hook in the first place, then place the hook but oh-shiite-the-hook-doesn't-sit-right-it-only-has-one-foot-on-the-rock, clip it with a long sling, extend the sling, downclimb back to a spot where you can clip it and you dare trying to weight it knowing that you won't actually weight it all the way since it will surely snap (let alone bounce test it), and then your partner wants to take a picture?!?!? so you say OK and try not to fall off while you pretend to fully weight the hook...which you eventually half-weight and then move back up and end up 3/4-weighting with one good foothold while you break out the 1/4" drill and start tapping without even slightly shifting the angle you are weighting the hook at since the last time you dared hang from a hook and you shifted your body angle it popped and took a chunk out of the helmet...
Photos by Jonathan duSaint, 2006 - FA of Kill Bill, South Face of Medlicott (what I've started calling The Wart since it seems more appropriate & less confusing - it looks like a wart on Medlicott from the top of Mariuolumne, there are frogs around, and one of the old routes is Yosemite Barking Toads):
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socalbolter
Sport climber
Silverado, CA
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Feb 11, 2010 - 11:30pm PT
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FA of Crimping Lessons 11c - South Astro Dome - Joshua Tree
People are asking why I'm holding the drill the way I am in this pic. Those of you who have trusted delicate hooks like this one know that body position and ZERO movement is the key to making them stick. This position just worked the best.
Come on people - post your pics!
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climbingtrash
Trad climber
Virgin, Utah
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Feb 11, 2010 - 11:45pm PT
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The "Legendary" Joe French...Happy hooking and hand drilling in Zion.
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Feb 12, 2010 - 12:18am PT
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Andy Genereux is a Calgary local who has put up hundreds of routes including many multi pitch 5.11s done ground up, on the lead, and solo using hooks and a Hilti. One time he was putting up a new route in the Ghost hanging on to a flake with one hand while holding the Hilti with the other. The flake snapped when the hole was partially done leaving all his weight on the drill which was still partially turning. Unfortunately his gear sling was strangling him in the process. He got out of that one and named the route Hang Em High.
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Feb 12, 2010 - 10:16am PT
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climbing bump
EDIT
Actually drilling bump :)
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Loomis
climber
*_*
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Feb 13, 2010 - 02:46am PT
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Feb 13, 2010 - 03:13am PT
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great shot Strider!
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
obsessively minitracking all winter at Knob Hill
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Feb 16, 2010 - 11:50am PT
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climbingtrash, please clarify! WTF is that thing!?
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scottpedition
climber
One valley or the other
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Feb 16, 2010 - 01:49pm PT
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In case you missed the link: http://climbingtrash.com/thewillystick.html
"If you lean into the wall too far the stick will spin and give you a ride we call the Windshield Wiper."
Taking windshield wiper: there's a ride I wouldn't mind missing, especially on rock as featured as that!
Scott
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Feb 16, 2010 - 02:32pm PT
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jghedge,
sounds like modified ground up, aka previewing and rehearsal. It prevents having to drill if the route doesn't actually 'go' - aka avoid a bolt ladder or hook ladder.
what kind of difficulty was the guy working?
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tenesmus
Trad climber
slc
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Feb 16, 2010 - 09:53pm PT
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I think sometimes the situation warrants this. Especially if the route needs a lot of cleaning and you're worried about dropping a bomb on your belayer.
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