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Messages 1 - 31 of total 31 in this topic |
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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No FISH ledges????
I'd add more, even if they're not FISH. Other companies need to be represented, otherwise it's a BD 'commercial'.
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Hi chris. Please put up a fish ledge review page and a metolius. I'm looking into buying a ledge soon and the bd is prob too spendy.
Kalen
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mongrel
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Here's another vote for the gear review pages to include all the main, obvious options a prospective gear purchaser might be considering. What's the rush? Although the beauty of the internet is that pages can be updated, in reality it doesn't happen enough. So I'd say, wait until a really good thorough review can be produced, then put it up. Maybe have a "pre-review" where you identify a couple of brands/models of something, say ledges, and ask for comments from those who have used them (preferably a lot, or have also used different ones), and suggestions of other ones that ought to be included, and make sure to get them in there if a lot of people suggest.
So, for ledges, it seems useless not to have BD, Metolius, and Fish all equally represented. Cost, weight, several significant design differences that people might care about. The gear sling and harness reviews, in my view, are really flawed not to include Misty Mountain. I only have one minimalist, old piece of their gear but it's ace, and people who have their harnesses seem to really love them. They're not in the fixed location stores, all the more reason to get them up there compared with the more widely known brands.
Give it time until you can make a review more evenly representative, or try the pre-review idea.
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bmacd
Trad climber
Beautiful British Columbia
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At 829 USD for a Fish double with fly which costs 80 USD more than a Fish single with fly. Fish econo single ledge 269 USD no fly. Great pricing ...
Maybe let someone submit a Fish review and a Metolius review to you Chris, for posting
What about wall ropes and haul lines reviews too ?
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Prod
Trad climber
Dodge Sprinter Dreaming
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My feeling is that all available ledges/ products should be represented. Especially the little guys, Fish and another guy who has posted about his new design. Can't remember his or his products nome unfortunately.
Cheers,
Prod.
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
شقوق واس
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I use an A5, but many of my partner have run Fish ledges.
Fish ledges are pretty kick azz, IMHO.
Good stuff!
Please add more....Represent!
groove on, Chris. Thanks.
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Slakkey
Big Wall climber
From Back to Big Wall Baby
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Anyone use one of the Fish econo single ledges? Could be the ticket for fast and light. I agree that no ledge review is complete without a Fish review. Never used a Metolius Ledge but agree the BD ones are on the heavy side.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Chris, you run a good shop! How many others ask for user input????
Rock on, C-Mac!
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Slakkey
Big Wall climber
From Back to Big Wall Baby
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Skully those A5 Ledges rocked. Only thing close is the Fish Ledge
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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A5 man, you can still get em on the flea bay. Or those TNF A5 post Duecey inspired, You can still get new ones out there.
Just saying, A5 or Fish, period.
I had a metolius double with the jungus folding cross arms go totally limp on me. The ledge has to be put together on the ground correctly otherwise.....Your sleeping in slings.
Can't beat the tube style. IMHO.
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Slakkey
Big Wall climber
From Back to Big Wall Baby
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The fact is that unlike reviewing cams, stoppers, belay devices, shoes etc. when it comes to Portaledges there are not many choices. So any review on ledges is pretty limited. The Fish Ledges IMO are everything a Ledge should be however and for good reason Russ can only produce so many Ledges a year so many climbers are stuck with basically 2 choices both of which have their downsides not to mention you add a fly are much more expensive. So any Ledge review could be seen as pretty one sided no matter if it is Chris or anyone else reviewing this particular piece of gear.
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Jingy
Social climber
Nowhere
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This just about says it all for me...
"This is the lightest and least expensive portaledge on the market. It is also the longest selling portaledge, having made its debut on Yosemite's big walls in the mid 80s. The ledges are made to order by Russ Walling, an experienced Yosemite big wall climber."
Strangely enough.. I think we all know which ledge this speaks of.....
Thanks Chris, for yet another great addition to the site.
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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Howdy Chris, I tried to buy a Fish Ledge for a casual ascent of the Trip....But was declined and had to pay more for a Metolius Ledge...It's a well built and sturdy system but is a little cumbersome to set up....I've let a friend borrow it for a round on the shield and it's holding up quite fine..No complaints.....But if you were hypo thermic on a wall ( been there on the Salathe), setting up the Metolius ledge could quickly become more then anyone could handle.
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clifff
Mountain climber
golden, rollin hills of California
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Jun 20, 2016 - 07:11am PT
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Sometimes a storm will blast water straight up the face. How well do these flys perform in those conditions?
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Jun 20, 2016 - 10:20pm PT
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FISH is the only one in the portaledge game that is using high-strength cro-moly steel tubing instead of aluminum.
Aluminum is easily dented and damaged. I used a Metolius that got bounced around a bit in a storm, and one of the aluminum tubes wound up with a sizeable dent that threatened to collapse completely and render the ledge unusable. I had to wrap the injury with sliced-open OE 800 cans, and duct-tape them as splints.
The cro-moly steel tubing that Russ the FISH uses is like spring steel, and nearly impossible to damage. He uses a REALLY thin walled tube (about 0.019", as I recall) so his ledges aren't much (or any) heavier than aluminum-framed junk.
If you flag an aluminum portaledge above your pig, you run the risk of destroying it if it hangs up on a little roof, and you keep pulling on the haul line with all your strength. By contrast, I have seen a flagged FISH ledge bend and distort and twist into a pretzel, then pop loose of the roof and spring back into perfect shape, completely undamaged.
Given the choice, I would take a FISH double over my own homemade double portaledge that has carbon fiber tubes and is lighter, but more fragile.
I don't see how a legitimate portaledge review could omit the FISH.
Dood's the Mack.
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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Jun 20, 2016 - 10:44pm PT
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I used a Metolius that got bounced around a bit in a storm, and one of the aluminum tubes wound up with a sizeable dent that threatened to collapse completely and render the ledge unusable. I had to wrap the injury with sliced-open OE 800 cans, and duct-tape them as splints.
yeah right! you were prolly trying to make a pipe out of one of the tubes and overly pinched it. Saying you used oe cans to fix the repair totally discounts your whole story. Everyone knows you must have atleast have the strength of an natty-ice can for such a fix.
edit; dude is the mack tho
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
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Jun 20, 2016 - 10:49pm PT
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The one on the left from housekeeping camp if memory serves ...
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Jun 21, 2016 - 12:23am PT
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You could have Ivo do one on Walmart vs. Target vs. K-Mart lawn recliners.
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Jun 21, 2016 - 04:14pm PT
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Yeah, Billy Westbay's Navy submarine cot probably came from Housekeeping Camp. They were available at military surplus stores, but the Curry Company generously didn't didn't bolt those things down very well.
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