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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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Man this thread is awesome. Thanks Guido.
Don't have much to offer in the way of personal experience other that a lifeliong infatuation with the mystery and lore of the place. Here's a little contribution to the thread I just sketched.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Revised transcription of the summit register, thanks to Joe Fitschen's edits above:
1st ASCENT
CASTLE ROCK SPIRE
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APR 27, 1950
WILL SIRI
AL STECK
PHIL BETTLER
BILL LONG
JIM WILSON
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2nd ASCENT
MAY 28, 1950
JOHN SALATHE'
ANTON (Ax) NELSON
DAVID HAMMACK
MANFORD SAMUELSON?
RICHARD? M
CHARLY CRAWFORD?
(15 hours)
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3rd Ascent
June 17-18, 1954
ROY GORIN
MIKE SHERRICK
12 hours
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4th Ascent
October 1, 1955
MARK POWELL
DON WILSON
5 1/2 hours
-
5th Ascent
June 10, 1956
Charles Wilts
Jerry Gallwas
7 1/2 hours
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6th Ascent
July 22, 1956
Mark Powell
John Ohrenschall
7 1/2 hours
--
7th Ascent
Jun 21, 1959
T.M. Herbert
David Rearick
__ hours
----------
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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OK, out with it.
Who's oldguy?
Probably another one we should be celebrating around here.
He's making personal references to Guido, Roper and Sherrick....
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 9, 2010 - 10:31pm PT
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Tis Joe Fitschen-One of the most prolific climbers of the 50s and 60s. Couple minor routes like 2nd ascent NW face of Half Dome, 2nd ascent of the Nose etc etc...............plus many first ascents in the Valley and Tahquitz.
Thus is the derivation of my name "Little Joe" because obviously he was "Big Joe."
Fitchen was the first person I ever heard mention that frightening word Marijuana. It may seem humorous in the world of today but in 1960 it was scarce to even hear the word. Times they have changed. I'll smoke to that.
cheers
Guido
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Dang, I knew I should've recognized it from somewhere else around here.
Sorry Joe 1 & 2, I'm getting senior before my time!!!
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Feb 10, 2010 - 08:18am PT
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Cheers to the Double J's! "Mary Jane" you say? Heck, you missed the gravy train 3 or 4 years ago when she was in abundance out there. You just had to navigate the booby traps to get to some of that booty.
Micro-
When you transcribe that art work onto a t-shirt.....I'll take two.
Guido-
thanks for the email the other day. BTW, I was under the impression George Sessions had done an ascent on The Spire. Just local talk when I was living up in that neighborhood a few years back.
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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Feb 10, 2010 - 04:04pm PT
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Kris....anybody....The stuff I've been putting on here has been mainly about the approach. I'm curious what other climbs can compare to the regular route up the spire??
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 10, 2010 - 04:10pm PT
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If "smiling George" had done an ascent, it would have been with a team of underaged, giggling nubile ladies, and in fear of retribution, the summit register would be bereft of any signatures.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Feb 10, 2010 - 04:28pm PT
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If "smiling George" had done an ascent, it would have been with a team of underaged, giggling nubile ladies, and in fear of retribution, the summit register would be bereft of any signatures.
Now that is funny!
I'm curious what other climbs can compare to the regular route up the spire??
Rene, without spraying beta, this is what I recall. The first crux pitch is a corner after you pass through behind the tower. It’s got some funky stemming and decent jams, maybe kind of like P3 on Don Juan Wall in The Needles but roomier and shorter. The real crux of the pitch is getting out left and around the roof which caps the corner. If you really commit you will be rewarded…
A couple pitches further up is another 5.11 pitch, this one is thin face moves with thin pro. It is steep face, but not as physical as the corner. As I recall, it was kind of all about one move.
Levy lead those pitches also, on the same day I did. Maybe he’ll chime in with his recollections.
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ec
climber
ca
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Feb 10, 2010 - 04:31pm PT
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micronut, get ihateplastic to run a t-shirt of that!
 ec
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Feb 10, 2010 - 04:34pm PT
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micronut, get ihateplastic to run a t-shirt of that!
ec
Yes! What EC said!
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Feb 10, 2010 - 05:29pm PT
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Hey Fitschen, I just caught up with this thread--great read and pictures Joe--and when I got to the picture Mark putting on his jacket and Steve drinking out of water bottle I was struck at how instantly recognizable Steve is, even when we cannot see his face.
I think that it is just his aura of innocence: he always defined the angelic perfection to me.
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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Feb 10, 2010 - 06:23pm PT
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I have been alerted through the various media distribution services that a shirt is needed! I have seen the art and will be in touch with Sir. tinynutz to see what can be done.
Only concern... are there more than 10-20 people out there who need this shirt?
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Feb 10, 2010 - 06:55pm PT
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I would absolutely love one. Email me through this site to make arrangements...
Thanks!
Kris
edit: Hey Joe, It was an honor and a pleasure meeting you up in Idyllwild recently!
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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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Feb 10, 2010 - 07:43pm PT
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Ok fellas. This is gonna cost you. Hold the press on the shirts!
I am a 5.8 climber with a penchant for the remote and bragworthy. I cannot climb 5.11 and get savagely pumped on 5.10 but I have a serious woody for this route. I have basic wall/aid skills and am an expert groveller.
If one of you guys would consider teaming up with me for a go at this route, and was willing to show me the way in and lead all the hard stuff, I'd make us LIMITED EDITION EPIC FREE T-SHIRTS printed on guaranteed to shrink non-organic cotton. I'm dead serious.
We can have Ihateplastic make a generic batch for the wannabee's, has beens and ST lurkers, (summiteers recieve a 5%discount) but the EXPEDITION T will be one of a kind.
Serious inquiries only please. Also, I have a DEA license so I can prescribe Rocephin or Vibramycin for Lyme disease should the need arise.
Here's some new art.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 10, 2010 - 08:07pm PT
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Vibramycin
Wow! would that help restore my old Kronhofer Vibram soles?
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D H
Trad climber
Exeter CA.
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Feb 11, 2010 - 01:06am PT
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This may be of interest to some:
In the fall of 1991 Shawn Hazelwood and I hiked in to climb the Spire by the regular route. We got half way up before realizing we were running out of time in order to make it back to the camp site by night fall. As we were not prepared to spend the night on the Spire, we rapped back to the base and made ready to descend the gully. At the base we noticed what we thought was an old piece of red sling near the start of the climb. Upon investigating it turned out to be the summit register from the Spire. I have no clue how it got there. Maybe a raven found it on top and was making off with it and dropped it? I put it in my pack and headed back to camp, arriving well after dark. While in my keeping I wrote down all that was entered in the register. Below is the list I copied. The following year Shawn returned to climb the Spire and replaced the register on top.
D. Hickey
Castle Rock Spire register
Placed on the Spire by the 9th ascent parted 6/29/63
1st Ascent Castle Rock Spire April 27, 1950. Will Siri, Phil Bettler, Bill long, and Jim Wilson.
2nd Ascent May 28, 1950. John Salathe, Anton (Ax) Nelson, David Hammack, Manford Sanuelson, Richard Michael, and Charley Carley Cranford. (15 hours)
3rd Ascent June 17-18, 1954. Roy Gorin and Mike Sherrick. (12 hours)
4th Ascent October 1, 1955. Mark Powell and Don Wilson. (5 hour 30 min)
5th Ascent June 10, 1956. Charles Wilts and Jerry Gallwas.
6th Ascent July 22, 1956. Mark Powell and John Ohrenuhall. (7hours 30 min)
7th Ascent June 21, 1959. T. M. Herbert and David Rearich. (7hours 30 min)
8th Ascent July 17, 1961. Charles Pratt and Andy Lichtman all day
9th Ascent June 19, 1963. Steve Roper, Little Joe McHemon and Mark Powell. (6 hours)
10th Ascent July 6, 1964. Chuck Pratt, Mark Powell, and Beverly Powell.
11th Ascent May 19, 1969. 1st Ascent West Face. Galen Rowell and Fred Beckey (2 day)
12th Ascent regular route June 8, 1974. Greg Donaldson, Ian Raistrick, and Walt Vennum. (what happened to Frost an Herberts N. Ridge Ascent)
This register, as it is, was placed Labor Day, 1983. By Jack Huntamer, Giant Forest and Matt Hoggard, Santa Barbara, (Welcome to Castle Rock Spire!)
9/4/83. Matt H. (12th asct?) Hey all you low Budget-low Lifes. On top. Good rout (Regular) Later! Beautiful Day, Splendid Climb J. B. H.
13th ASCT (?) see other Reg. 9/8/83. All FREE 5.10/5.11 Pitch above tunnel 5.10+ Pitch above 5.6 chm 5.11? (A1). Last Pitch 5.9. Rob Raker and Dick Leversee.
July 6.1984 So Tired. I forgot the date. Came in from Paradise Ridge Down hideous gully, never again! Did reg. route, Bivy on top. Will rap an climb Fin to get out! E. C. Joe, David Hickey and Jim Marchesin.
May 15th 1988-LA-RCS 15th Ascent 8 hours. Miguel Carmona and Alois Smrz. Did “Silver Lining” on the Finn 2 days ago. This ranks among the best weekends ever. Weather suparb. Reading the Fegister-What a company. We must be the first plaine people up here!! Cheers
July 1. 1989. 15 hours from Buckeye to the top of Spire. Staying the night on top. Great Weather. Art de Goede and David Hickey. Splended night.
May 6. 1990. Kris Solem and Guy Keesee. This is fobulous-WOW!
5/6/1990. 2nd party for the day Meggo Kicks. Did Reg Route All Free 5.11c no falls. Did “Silber Lining” yesorday, very good. Like Faervew Dome in Tuolome. Bill Leventhal and Raehal Weil. Time for libation! “How can the wind with its arms all around me. I feel lost in the city.” Yes hart of summer
Stu Polack, and Tom Hunt 22nd Ascent? Reg Route Free 10/13/90. Part of an elite few it seems. In from Buckeye last night, up Reg Route, hopefully down and out tonight. Great Weater! (Modesto)
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Feb 11, 2010 - 01:37am PT
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DH - Thanks for posting that list!
Just for sh*ts and grins I'd be curious to know how our ascent numbers in true free ascents. I was squeaky clean that day and of course Levy, who was right behind us was as well. Two free ascents that day.
Interesting that Raker and Leversee thought the face pitch was harder than the corner/crack. I thought it the other way 'round, obviously those guys are better crack climbers than I.
Great history, very lucky you came across that register in the gulley that day.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 11, 2010 - 01:42am PT
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"Little Joe McHemon"?
Tis Joe Fitschen-One of the most prolific climbers of the 50s and 60s. Couple minor routes like 2nd ascent NW face of Half Dome, 2nd ascent of the Nose etc etc...............plus many first ascents in the Valley and Tahquitz.
Thus is the derivation of my name "Little Joe" because obviously he was "Big Joe."
I guess he couldn't have the poetic "Bitchin' Joe Fitschen", because that was already taken by BBA.
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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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Feb 11, 2010 - 01:45am PT
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Oops. Good point swellymoon. I'll have to change that up. I was trying to accentuate the "spireness" of the spire. I'm not wearing that thing on my back.
DH, that's so cool. good find. good work.
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