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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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> Is there a route on the North Arete? I know cinco de mayo is on the west face and there is spike hairdo is sorta on the east face, but I think there are 5 established routes. Seems like all the routes start from the notch.
1. Regular Route - E/NE Face
1a. Direct Start
2. NE Face (Frost-Herbert)
3. Cinco De Mayo - NW Face
4. W Face (Beckey, et al)
5. Spike Hairdo - SE Arete
I recall from the Cinco De Mayo trip report that Brandon and Bruce considered doing the North Arete, but it was too blank, so they climbed cracks to its right.
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Jordan Ramey
Big Wall climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Cool, thanks.
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SierraGoat
Trad climber
Quincy, Ca
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Jun 16, 2011 - 02:27pm PT
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Micro and Ihateplastic, those T's still available?
Last weekend we made the epic journey into the elusive spire and climbed the regular route. One of the best adventure climbs and summits of my life. What a special place. Just wanted to thank all those that posted beta on the climb here, as the info was key to our success. Particularly I would like to thank the late Bruce Bindner for the info he put out there on the spire and the surrounding features. The new register is beautifully in tact..thanks mooch and munge.
Cheers
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Jun 16, 2011 - 02:49pm PT
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Nice job Dood!!
Here'e the link for Ihateplastic's website for the CRS shirt:
http://shop.vershke.com/category.sc?categoryId=3
Got some photos to post up? BTW, are the prayer flags still there?
Finally ordered my t-shirt today!
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SierraGoat
Trad climber
Quincy, Ca
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Jun 16, 2011 - 05:03pm PT
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Got a bunch of great pics as we had three cameras going and will be sure to copy the TR into ST or add a link once its completed.... just working on post poison oak and tick treatment and recovering for now. The flags are still there...think they were in the register??? What a wild summit! Did you guys rap spiked hairdoo? We were really concerned about a stuck rope on that gendarme but somehow escaped the wrath of the spire (there was one old stuck rope there already).
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Critter
Trad climber
State of Jefferson
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Jun 16, 2011 - 10:32pm PT
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but somehow escaped the wrath of the spire
Seriously Goat? I dont feel like we have escaped yet. The tick bites... the systemic poison oak... the night terrors.... o well, at least we are out with most of our sanity.
Say
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Critter
Trad climber
State of Jefferson
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Jun 16, 2011 - 10:41pm PT
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The "Gatorita" pitch can be found either on the Cinco De Mayo route, or on the boulder of our base camp.
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Jun 17, 2011 - 04:52pm PT
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Praise be the Saints!! You doods did it in pure style and class.....Brutus would be proud!
nice work boys!
Edit: State of Jefferson........nice, Critter!!
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Jun 17, 2011 - 05:21pm PT
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Salathe attempted the first ascent with Jim Wilson around 1948
hmmmm......makes me wonder if that faded paper we found on the Second Gendarme was their initial attempt. 'Course, Brutus beat 'em to that intended line many decades later, which we all know as 'Spike Hairdo'.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jun 17, 2011 - 07:17pm PT
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SUHWEET! nice job fellas! way to have max fun!
hate them ticksters!
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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Jun 17, 2011 - 07:22pm PT
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Nice Job!! You must have been the 3 hikers with big backpacks that the campground ranger saw going up the paradise trail. Good to hear the adventures are still out there! What were the "Night Terrors"?? and did you have to use crampons on the snow tongue?
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SierraGoat
Trad climber
Quincy, Ca
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Jun 17, 2011 - 11:30pm PT
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crampons and axes were used going up the snow, which amounted to about 1500 vert + -....although critter decided it would be better to craft his ice axe out of an old stick.
I'm surprised the host didn't mention anything about the ridiculous white jumpsuits...and the three crazed lunatics.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jun 19, 2011 - 08:19pm PT
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bump because we talked about this one this weekend with great fondness.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jun 19, 2011 - 08:43pm PT
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Davey, when you get done fooling around on the rocks this weekend, here's the vid clip...
http://www.vimeo.com/12606827
Ritas were made as well this weekend. Good weekend despite no climbing.
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t-bone
climber
Bishop
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Oct 18, 2011 - 01:17pm PT
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Oct 18, 2011 - 01:20pm PT
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Nice aerial shot! I like the way it reveals that the Fin and Castle Rocks are the same ridge.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Oct 18, 2011 - 01:41pm PT
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whoa! really nice.
Got a high res version you'd be willing to send me for my desktop wallpaper?
Taken from a plane?
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D H
Trad climber
Exeter CA.
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Oct 19, 2011 - 12:28am PT
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Here is a shot from this last summer of the back Castles
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Oct 19, 2011 - 12:44am PT
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DH,
that's not that far away. Were you xc or on a spur trail?
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Oct 19, 2011 - 12:56am PT
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That aerial shot sure makes walking in from the top look a lot easier despite
what others have said.
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