Castle Rock Spire with Roper and Powell-1962

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Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Apr 27, 2010 - 06:33pm PT
I'll see if I can find out about the 5.8 bypass. I just talked with Mark today. If they went that fast you can almost bet on it.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Apr 27, 2010 - 07:59pm PT
can't wait!

thx Clint!
Radish

Trad climber
SeKi, California
Apr 27, 2010 - 10:29pm PT
Clint, Great Job on the list! I was involved with every recon out there for trail work between 2005-2007. Also along were Dave Daly and Wil Mundy. A few of the trips others went along- Larry Zulim, Rob Brown, Micheal Daly and Scott and Mike Welch. Lots of work went into those trips and a Big Thanks to those who helped. It was Larry Zulims rack that was cached and got oxidized. My water containers both had big teeth marks in them and the water drained from another cache attempt. Unless someone has climbed it since, the Fin has had 12 ascents to the "Silver Lining" route. I work next to the wilderness office in the summer where you get the permit to go out there. I usually hear about parties going up. Now, with the growers problem, any cars parked for the climb at Buckeye or Hospital Rock that don't show permits are suspect. There is usually not a whole lot of permits issued for these trailheads, mainly due to not alot of interest. Nice to have this history down! Our fastest time was just under 7 hours from Buckeye touching the spire and back. Also,is'nt there a picture in Doug Scott's book about Climbing Big Walls that shows the rack he used for the Castle Rock Spire??
ec

climber
ca
Apr 28, 2010 - 12:27am PT
Unless someone has climbed it since, the Fin has had 12 ascents to the "Silver Lining" route.- Radish

O.K. let's have the elusive Silver Lining list. Leversee, Hickey and myself: second ascent...
 ec
Radish

Trad climber
SeKi, California
Apr 28, 2010 - 10:48am PT
I was with Brandon and Derek when they made the 12th ascent in 2004, though didn't climb due to my tick delimma. This was according to the register under the rock pile in the pic. Also corrected was the name of Ron Carson's route "Nervana" In the guide it was listed as Nirvana and I always wondered about that, knowing Ron and thinking he wouldn't use that kind of name of a band and such.
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Apr 28, 2010 - 11:44am PT
I stood there for a while looking up at that Nervana of Ron's...

That looks like quite a climb there! Has anyone else done that one??!!

I think it is somewhat left of the letter A and upward arrow on pg 274 of the SEKI guide in very steep thin terrain. I wonder what the bolts are like...

5.10dR or 5.11a (depending on whether you're looking at pg 275 or 304.) With Carson involved that could mean almost anything. FA credit says Carson and Brian Jonas in 1992.

Keesee and I climbed The Fin via a new line somewhere between Silver Lining and Charley Knapp route with no bolts. Never bothered to report it. That was on the same day Levy and Rachel did S.L.
Radish

Trad climber
SeKi, California
Apr 28, 2010 - 12:45pm PT
We looked at Nervana several times. It starts with a line of bolts, not too many, going up kind of a crystal dike, then into the Black Water Streak shown in this photo, left up the main face. Great line, serious commitment!


mooch

Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
Apr 28, 2010 - 12:51pm PT
Hmmmm....I wasn't aware of any of the SSCA gang doing CRS???

Were they doing a recon? I know Torey and I don't think she has done it. Rene, help me out here. Don't recall Torey doing it. Then again, I was off in SoYo going after stuff there.
Radish

Trad climber
SeKi, California
Apr 28, 2010 - 12:57pm PT
Dave, Torey, her husband Jay and Daniel Moor all did do it in 07. In fact today is that anniversary. I took Torey out for a recon the weekend before to help her get waypoints.
mooch

Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
Apr 28, 2010 - 01:00pm PT
Right on. Did she ever get photos? Would make a great slide show for the upcoming Needles gig. Funny, I mentioned our upcoming trip and she didn't say a word about her ascent of CRS.
ec

climber
ca
Apr 28, 2010 - 01:20pm PT
I did draw that...
mooch

Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
Apr 28, 2010 - 04:05pm PT
D-Cross

In the photo above for SL, are you (or whoever) at the top of pitch #3?? Refering to the topo, it looks like you skipped the pro option at the 5.8 section and even passed the bolt in the middle of pitch #3. 5.8/5.9X climbing??? Sackage!!

Set me straight if I'm wrong.
Alois

Social climber
Idyllwild, California
Apr 28, 2010 - 06:15pm PT
Miguel Carmona and I did (I believe) the 3rd ascent of Silver Lining in 1988 a day before we did the CRS Regular Route.
mooch

Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
Apr 29, 2010 - 12:53pm PT
del cross = Jim Curl ???

If so, how the hell have you been?!!
mooch

Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
Apr 29, 2010 - 12:55pm PT
Hey Alois....thoughts on your variation start of the Reg Route.
Alois

Social climber
Idyllwild, California
Apr 29, 2010 - 01:26pm PT
Hardly my variation, more like our variation. Miguel and I debated how to get to the notch of CRS from the Silver Lining trees very early in the morning. The gully was hard snow and we had neither crampons,ice axes or hiking boots (just tennies and sticks we picked up). It was getting pretty dicey in the gully. One of us sugested this thing which would avoid the rest of the approach. It worked. Two short pitches (some .9) got us to the "squeeze" flake avoiding the original loose 4th class traverse from the notch. In early season (May, June) the steepening gully can be nasty. Several later parties had to deal with the hard snow too and some couldn't get past it. The gully affects Silver Lining less, the higher up it one goes, the steeper it gets. Of course, coming down the snow gully is super soft and the going is trivial.
mooch

Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
Apr 29, 2010 - 01:52pm PT
Sounds like previous parties didn't do their homework wehen it came to the snow in the gully. Crampons! ;) And the whole weight issue for humping up the approach goes as follows: It's already tough.....get tougher!
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Apr 29, 2010 - 03:17pm PT
We did Alois direct start. It is definitely the way to go. I suppose if you came in from the top the traverse in would seem more sensible, but the first two pitches from below add to the climb.

Crampons? I dunno.

After we got down from the Fin the first day, I went up the gulley on the soft afternoon snow in Fire Flyers, kicking in nice steps all the way to Alois variation. The next morning the gulley was frozen but we had our steps, and nut tools for self arrest...

Maybe OT, but speaking of Alois, He and Miquel did a truly impressive winter ascent of Moon Goddess Buttress in a push recently. Rad for any climber of any age, but that is representing for the grown ups in a big way! Congrats you guys!

Link
Alois

Social climber
Idyllwild, California
Apr 29, 2010 - 07:34pm PT
Agree with Kris, hiking up there in the afternoon and kicking some steps into the soft snow is THE way. It takes about 5 hours to hike to the Spire from your car (if one knows the way), so there is time in the afternoon to put the steps in.

BTW there is a campsite equiped with a fire ring, showel and a flat spot for three people at the top right side of the stream (looking up) that flows from the CRS gully. It is at the base of the first huge boulder one encounters. Water (the stream) is close by. There is a fixed stopper about 10-12 feet up the boulder, to hang one's food off it. A great place to camp, but about an hour from there to the Spire.
mooch

Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
Apr 30, 2010 - 12:28pm PT
Not to sound condescending in anyway guys......but I knew all that. Short of climbing the spire itself, Rene and I have probably been back there more times than anyone person. I can count 3 times in one week during the summer of 2005!

As for the snow, we were back there in mid June a few years back (in the afternoon) and the snow was consolidated enough to warrant crampons. Heck, Brutus and I were packing crampons in because he had issues when they went back there for the FA of Cinco de Mayo.

Yep, I spotted the fixed nut Alois. Left it there, of course. Felt certain at the time that its purpose was exactly for what you said.
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