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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 17, 2010 - 03:30am PT
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Trip Report - September 21, 1979
New Hampshire Rock Climbing
Ed Hartouni, Mike, Richie, and Bill...
Perhaps the first climbing trip/photos that I have were taken on this trip from New York to New Hampshire to climb at Cathedral and Whitehorse Ledges. I'm not sure I recall all the details. They lived in New York City, while I had moved to Tarrytown, up the Hudson River north of the city that year. However we arranged to meet, we had a 360+ mile drive up to North Conway.
I'm guessing we drove up as early as possible on Friday 9/21. We were in my 1961 split window VW bus, California license plate, gold on brown, ZOT580. Here we are at a pit stop along the way
That's Mike, Richie and Bill, left-to-right.
[these negatives are Kodak Kodacolor II which are not in the greatest of shape... there are a lot of artifacts, fading, etc... the camera was a Kodak Signet 35 Camera, with a Kodak Ektar Lens, 44mm f3.5 which Debbie's sister gave to us]
We setup camp somewhere outside of North Conway, but i don't recall where, it seems to have been a real campground as we have a picnic table...
I'm pretty sure that Mike and Bill slept in the tent, Richie in the yellow tube tent and I slept in the bus.
While both Mike and I had climbed and camped as kids, I'm not sure that either Bill or Richie ever had... perhaps there was some skepticism that food could be cooked on a Bluet stove?
Getting organized for the climb... Mike is wearing classic trousers, revealing his patches as he leans into the van to sort gear
We motor out to the crag, it is a bit different today I know...
Richie finds some friends tied up waiting for their owners to return.
There is nothing quite so wonderful as walking through the woods in the northeast in autumn.
Since Richie and Bill have had only limited climbing experience (probably a few times in the 'Gunks) we pick Beginner's Route 5.4 on Whitehorse Ledge. The Ross and Ellms 1978 guide warns:
"This route is easy but only if one is used to friction climbing on Whitehorse. Beginner climbers should be cautious of attempting to lead the climb as the runouts between protection are long."
It is shown as a 10 pitch climb. Mike belays Bill up the first pitch. I probably lead Richie on the second rope.
And further up the slab Mike and Bill at some belay
The views are typical of the Mt. Washington Valley... verdant.
At the top (?) getting the kit together... state-of-the-art rack for 1979!
The next day we set off for Cathedral Ledge. We choose Refuse 5.5 a five pitch climb.
"One of the most popular routes on the cliff. A good introduction to Cathedral for intermediate climbers."
Here is Mike leading the first pitch:
And the next pitch is described thus "Climb the large fir tree at the back of the ledge to the long large tree covered ledge. Note: the off width, slightly overhanging crack in the corner on the right of the tree can be climbed at 5.8. It is usually dirty and poorly protected." We opted for the tree, here Mike leads through:
note the tied off limb. You can also see the "usually dirty" off width crack! I hear the tree has departed and the route goes someplace else now.
Looking across the valley...
somewhere over there Bierstadt painted these cliffs before there were all the trees...
Moat Mountain, Intervale, New Hampshire, ca. 1862 Albert Bierstadt
Here is a picture of me leading, not so sure how far the top is from here...
...fashionable orange-and-black rugby shirt... maybe they'll come back into style?!
My guess is that we touristed around a bit, checking out the climbs for "the next time"
and what climbs we might do... here I'm pointing out something to Mike and Bill, apparently Richie took this shot (damn hard to see if things were in focus in that tiny view finder).
I've been back several times to these cliffs to climb over the decades but I don't think that Bill or Richie or Mike had been. I have climbed with Mike in the White Mountains, but that was mostly in the winter, and on ice. Mike and I have climbed many other places together over 30+ years, just not N.Conway.
We left on Sunday for the long drive back and were at work on Monday... all of us graduate students at Columbia U.
Sorry for being a bit late on the TR, it sure doesn't seem like 30 years ago.
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Tomcat
Trad climber
Chatham N.H.
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Jan 17, 2010 - 07:57am PT
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Nice Ed ! Great to see those old shots. Everyone had a rugby shirt...lol.
The campground everyone stayed in was North Conway Pines,right near the cliff,your picture looks like it was taken there.The picture of you leading "Upper Refuse" is early on in the upper section,with one shorter pitch above that one.A certain well traveled and renowned climber often signs his letters to Alpinist with the address "Upper Refuse NH".
The Taco's own JimE has a fine and funny tale to tell about the Refuse tree,but it's his to tell,so I'll hope he sees your thread.
Thanks for sharing.
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adamiata
Ice climber
Candia, NH
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Jan 17, 2010 - 08:56am PT
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Awesome trip report.
I've only heard the legend of the Lower Refuse tree, so this was the first time I've gotten to see it.
I'm going to have to look for a print of that Cathedral/Whitehorse painting. I really like it.
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Jan 17, 2010 - 09:19am PT
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Thanks, Ed. I love TRs like this. Also love the tube tent! Until I sold my '67 Westy five years ago (one my life's regrets), I did practically every road trip in that, or a 64 bus, or a '67 bug. There's just something "right" about that, you know? Anyway, thanks for the trip!
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slabbo
Trad climber
fort garland, colo
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Jan 17, 2010 - 09:43am PT
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Ya North Conway pines camp. I used to sleep under the table so I would only get a few rain strips on me. The Refuse tree got so bad that it was like the tree on Royal Arches, just kinda there. JimE's story of the tree is great- it needs to be told again.
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Edge
Trad climber
New Durham, NH
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Jan 17, 2010 - 09:59am PT
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Great TR, Ed.
Ah, yes, my old stomping ground. 1979 was the tear I graduated high school, and from roughly '78 - 84 I probably climbed over 80 days each year there. I remember that old Refuse tree fondly; sadly it's demise made Funhouse even more popular as an approach to the upper pitches.
Here is my friend Steve attempting the crux of Diedre in '80. I tried and also backed off. We returned to the truck and had a couple beers each and some herbal courage before returning where I fired the crux and steve sent the final handcrack. Atop the climb he pulled a Heineken can out of his chalk bag for us to share.
Steve leading the classic corner pitch.
My daughter's first climb was also Beginners on Whitehorse. Here she is at age 7 in 1995; she graduates college this year summa c#m laude with a mathmatics and education degree.
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Edge
Trad climber
New Durham, NH
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Jan 17, 2010 - 11:03am PT
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Here's our very own Slabbo trying to find microcrystals to crimp inside a perfectly good crack.
This was probably taken sometime around 1983, maybe on Cathedral's "Rollin' and Tumblin'.
Or maybe not. Strand any recollection?
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slabbo
Trad climber
fort garland, colo
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Jan 17, 2010 - 11:24am PT
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Must be a long time ago'cause I got socks on.I got NO idea about the route, I have done R&T but....... Nice 2" swami too. I just got some slides from BITD put on disk so there will be some old shots coming soon
john
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Jan 17, 2010 - 11:26am PT
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Nice, Ed.
I had my first trip to those crags not long after, in 1982.
I really enjoyed the climbing there.
Rick
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Edge
Trad climber
New Durham, NH
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Jan 17, 2010 - 11:41am PT
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Must be a long time ago'cause I got socks on.I got NO idea about the route, I have done R&T but....... Nice 2" swami too. I just got some slides from BITD put on disk so there will be some old shots coming soon
john
Looks like you were wearing Fires, so definitely early 80's. Couldn't find the ascent in my notes, but I think I recall climbing Rollin' & Tumblin' with a third?
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J. Werlin
Social climber
Cedaredge, CO
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Jan 17, 2010 - 12:49pm PT
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Thank you for the excellent TR Ed. Really enjoyed the artistic interlude as well.
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Edge
Trad climber
New Durham, NH
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Jan 17, 2010 - 02:16pm PT
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Cathedral/Whitehorse fans will have no trouble identifying these two images:
Climbed a week or two after walking under the FAists as they put it up.
My butt doing my preferred climb, avoiding the piss easy Beast Flake.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Jan 17, 2010 - 02:26pm PT
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Dang! That looks like so long ago! The last time I climbed there was in 1978. Great shots, they really brings back some memories.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 17, 2010 - 02:36pm PT
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Sweet nostagic TR, Ed!
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Edge
Trad climber
New Durham, NH
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Jan 17, 2010 - 02:38pm PT
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Mark, I love the rack shown for the Bridge. Three of us climbed that, pooled all our big cams, and still ended up placing at least half hexes.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 17, 2010 - 02:52pm PT
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the time of Rugby shirts, white painter's pants and EBs,
and a rack of stoppers and hexes with tied slings...
simple things
The "Columbia University Mountaineers" in 2007
Lawrence, me, Bill, Richie and Mike..
...and Gen 1 of 510 OW...
at Porcupine Flats Campground, near Tuolumne Meadows....
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Jan 17, 2010 - 04:05pm PT
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pretty sweet, Ed!
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tradchick
Trad climber
White Mountains
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Jan 17, 2010 - 06:33pm PT
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Edge: Is your first shot of Childrens Crusade?
The second must be the chimney on Recompense? Also my favorite climb on Cathedral but I prefer the beast flake variation.
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Edge
Trad climber
New Durham, NH
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Jan 17, 2010 - 06:35pm PT
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Edge: Is your first shot of Childrens Crusade?
The second must be the chimney on Recompense?
Yes on both counts.
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Jan 17, 2010 - 07:29pm PT
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Nice Ed,
Thanks,
Z
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Paulina
Trad climber
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Jan 18, 2010 - 04:14pm PT
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The separation of discussion from trip report is a bit confusing to me - I replied on the trip reports forum to say 'thanks' and, well, whatever I said there. :-)
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Jan 18, 2010 - 08:08pm PT
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Ah, retro-TRs....
My first trips up Cathedral and Whitehorse came only slightly before Ed's -- in October 1977.
I had just moved out East, clutching a Climbing article by Ed Webster that claimed there
were good climbs to be done.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Jan 18, 2010 - 08:11pm PT
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On a short fall day Steve Larson and I climbed two of those routes Ed had mentioned --
Diedre and Sliding Board. Old hat for Steve, a UNH student then, but brand new
introductions to the two crags for me.
I thought Webster was right, these were cool.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Jan 18, 2010 - 09:55pm PT
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Steve Larson and I graduated in the same class from High School.
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cleo
Social climber
Berkeley, CA
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Jan 19, 2010 - 12:32am PT
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So nice, someday when I'm back home (in Vermont), I'll have to actually go climbing!
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slobmonster
Trad climber
OAK (nee NH)
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Jan 19, 2010 - 07:30am PT
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The crux/"roof" move on Deidre is still pretty funky...
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slabbo
Trad climber
fort garland, colo
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Jan 19, 2010 - 10:03am PT
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Ah Yes Mark- some of the "manchester Bunch" a rather talented group to say the least. I still got my stawberry chalk bag and ya can still chalk to the elbow with it !
john
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Jan 19, 2010 - 10:12am PT
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A Mt Washington article in the latest Rock and Ice mentions Steve "Father Time" Larson.
Funny to read that after recalling Steve as a student.
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Seamstress
Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
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Jan 19, 2010 - 12:17pm PT
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I foundly remember camping in a development to be built just off West Side Road. Lot number 28. We camped there twice a month for several years. Very convenient. Pull in the roughed out driveway, and set up the tent in 30 seconds flat by car head light. The mosquitos could be vicious and inspired a tightly choreographed camp routine. We would shower at the sports club for the $5 per day fee - and use the rest of the facilities. Hit the Big Pickle for breakfast - a lot of climbers were there.
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L
climber
H2O..what is this H2O thing of which you speak?
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Jan 19, 2010 - 03:07pm PT
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Nice amble through the past, Ed. Many thanks!
A question came to mind as I read it, though...an annoyingly persistent question that could have monumental history-rewriting ramifications if it's found to be true.....
Did I actually read...in carved-in-stone cyber-print...that you chose to climb the tree instead of the dirty and poorly protected 5.8 off-width?????
Say it ain't so, Ed!!! Say it ain't so!
;-)
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 19, 2010 - 03:10pm PT
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we certainly cannot be forever held to the sins of our youth, L, as it is in other things, as I aged I came to see the truth in following the world wide ways.
I still hold a particular fondness for "vegetable" holds, though tempered by Debbie's admonishments...
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L
climber
H2O..what is this H2O thing of which you speak?
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Jan 19, 2010 - 03:18pm PT
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Ed,
My aghastment (yes, that's my newly created word as nothing currently in the dictionary is expressive enough) stems not from you touching a tree...but from you choosing a tree over a mossy, dirty, chance-of-dying-or-permanent-disfigurement grovel-fest!
See, I thought the OW fetish thing was genetic...
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Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
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Jan 19, 2010 - 03:33pm PT
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Similar to the late,lamented "rotten log" on Royal Arches, the Refuse "tree", especially in it's later years, had it's own "chance of dying or permanent disfigurement" attractions, so perhaps Ed can get a dispensation for this "lapse".
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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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Jan 19, 2010 - 04:30pm PT
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Nice work Ed. Thanks for the stroll. Anybody know why they call it Whitehorse. Is a Horse, let alone a white one any part of the story?
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Jan 19, 2010 - 04:57pm PT
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Webster's guidebook relates that 19th-century observers discerned the outline of a
white horse in the ceilings to the R of the upper crux of Children's Crusade. Allegedly
this can still be seen, but I haven't tried to look for it.
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L
climber
H2O..what is this H2O thing of which you speak?
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Jan 19, 2010 - 05:56pm PT
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Those are some beautiful photos you posted, too, Larry.
Let me compliment you on them as I bump this fine thread back to the front page where it belongs...
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slabbo
Trad climber
fort garland, colo
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Jan 19, 2010 - 07:02pm PT
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Steve Larson- f/a Heather 12a 8 days 1980. It;s still pretty stiff. When we did the f/f/a of Aiwass, steve was the only one who gave us props. All others said 11+- right
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MH2
climber
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Jan 19, 2010 - 10:16pm PT
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Too bad about the Refuse tree, but if the Bierstadt comparison is accepted then, like John Howe has said about Squamish, the trees are winning.
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Derek
climber
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Jan 20, 2010 - 09:29am PT
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Mark Hudon and Steve Larson in the same HS class, huh? Must of had a helluva gym teacher.
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slabbo
Trad climber
fort garland, colo
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Jan 20, 2010 - 09:32am PT
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And of course another pretty good climber from the area named Dunn.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 20, 2010 - 03:32pm PT
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Nice job Ed!
Those pictures are terrifically innocent and the whole aura appropriately unpolished.
I can see the photographs coming right out of one of those old albums with the sticky backing board and clear sheet.
Not quite old enough for corner tabs...
I love the contrast of Hudon's picture: the period "pro" outfit, the clean & sparse line of slung nuts dangling neat from gear sling.
And you either remember the license plate number on your split window micro bus or you keep excellent records.
I'm guessing it's the former.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 20, 2010 - 10:13pm PT
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ZOT580 was the first car I owned... and it was a partnership ownership with Debbie...
In our senior year a Berkeley we responded to an ad in some local paper were two such vehicles were available for sale as a package. One was sorta working, the other was good for parts. They were both vans with split windshield, and the wrap around window in the rear corners.
This van was the melding of the two. We had the transmission rebuilt in Berkeley. And then drove it to Los Angeles on our way to New York City, in which we fit our worldly possessions including one cat, Wolf Cat, who hid the entire trip.
At some point I think I probably handled every piece on that vehicle...
...lots of good road trips, and lots of memories.
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TrundleBum
Trad climber
Las Vegas
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Jan 20, 2010 - 11:17pm PT
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HOooo Mahn... I just moved...
No net conneck yet (working off the local library right now and they block photobucket requests.0
I'll post up some old pic's when I can get them scanned.
~~~~~~~~~~
'79 If my memory serves me, was the summer that that amazing young Californian named Peter Mayfield blew through town with Leonard Coyne and set the place on fire, freeing the direct finish to 'Women in Love' among other things.
~~~~~~~~~~
I wanted to mention...
Re: Mark Hudon and Steve Larson going to High school together...
Ok so you had all these unreal talented climbers in North Cornflake area at the time.
There was to mention a few.
Mark Ritchie
Mike Hartrich
Rick Wilcox
Bragg (now and again)
Jimmy Dunn
Ed (photo by) Webster
A lot of names just don't come to mind with out the aid of text references but there were a few 'Lesser sung heroes like Kurt Winkler and Jim Tierney etc etc.
But let's talk unsung hero from the Manchester N.H area:
Paul Boissenault (last name sp?) or more affectionately known as 'Base'.
Base is one of my all time heroes. Not just from North Conway climbing but from the Valley as well. I really got to know Base when I did my first season in the Valley. He and Chris Larson had done a road trip through the Wind River, mount Hooker comes to mind? Then they finished their season together by doing somewhere around the 12th or 13th ascent of the P.O Wall.
This is getting far afield from North Conway TR's I realize. However I have many times thought of starting a 'Base' appreciation thread but refrained figuring there would not be much response.
The first time I met Base I was hanging out at Chris Noonan's chalet at the base of the crag. It was about 9pm and there was a blizzard on. There must have been almost a dozen people at the chalet, most were well known N. Conway climbers. This car pulls up outside and everybody is pondering who would be out and about in this weather when someone blurts out "Far out, it's Base" (In his Plymouth, Fury-3 dubbed the "Battle star"). Much to my surprise the place erupts into praise and good words about Base as he is getting his stuff out of the car.
By now I am expecting some super human, super arian, Adonis to step into the chalet. Quite the opposite, this goofy looking/acting guy with a little hunch to his shoulders and a crooked nose enters to the Joy of his friends that were by no means expecting him to come up on a Friday night in that weather.
As I say I didn't really get to know Base until fall '78 in Camp-4. After Chris Larson left for the East Coast Base took me in and dragged me around and even taught me a thing or two. It was with Base that I did my first simul climbing. I had never heard of the term or even thought about it other than on an ice field or glacier.
We roped up at the base of the East Butt of Middle Cathedral Rock, for that I was really glad. Base had this huge rack of tube chocks and said if the East Butt had traffic we'd just do (name escapes me) this offwidth right near by. There was no traffic but we went and looked at the offwidth any way. It was this hideous, .10d, mossy flare from Hell. Thank God there was no Traffic on the East Butt.
Base took the first lead and as he passed the little tree a shortly up the first pitch he looked back down at me and said "When the rope runs out just start climbing, if the rope goes up then yer on." I climbed, and climbed thinking he had one huge arse rope length. Finally I pull over an edge and there is Base sitting at the bottom of the .10c bolt ladder pitch. As I came up he snapped a shot with his 35mm and with a smile and a nod towards the bolt ladder said something like "looks like I did the grunt so you can get all the fun, batter up!"
I wound up driving all the way back too New Hampshire from the Valley with Base. We stopped in Josh, Prescott, Boulder and then home.
~~~~~~~~~~~
I apologize for 'Jack'n this thread but come on...
Slabbo, Hudon, Al Rubin and so many more that are reg's here at the taco...
Let's hear it for the inimitable grace and personality that Base brought to the crags of N.H during the late 70's and 80's
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murcy
climber
sanfrancisco
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Jan 21, 2010 - 12:18am PT
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Once more, Ed comes through with the Premiere content. Plus, who knew he used to have a face?! Wait, maybe you didn't . . . are any of those you?
Thanks, Ed.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 21, 2010 - 12:49am PT
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ok, I'm blessed by climbing partners who have better things to do than take pics of me,
but Mike must have taken this one...
I'm in Orange and Black, Richie is on the right. I'm 25 years old there... more than half a lifetime away
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slabbo
Trad climber
fort garland, colo
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Jan 21, 2010 - 08:57am PT
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I;m on a Base thread. The Battle star , everything.
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Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
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Jan 21, 2010 - 09:56am PT
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Trundle..., Slabbo---I, too, was thinking of posting up on Base, and Gene Vallee, when the subject of the amazing southern New Hampshire climbers from the '70s came up on this thread. Don't forget, if it hasn't been posted earlier, that Jimmy Dunn was also originally from that area, though he began to climb after moving west.While folks like Hudon and Larson moved on, Base and Gene remained centered in Manchester for many years, Base still remaining, climbing and exploring in southern as well as northern New Hampshire and pretty much anywhere else there is rock in a highly capable but always low-key, non-competitive style. I first met them, and climbed on their routes, at Joe English Hill, starting many years of enjoyable companionship and climbing adventures. You shouldn't refer to Base in the past tense, as he is still very much with us, maybe not climbing quite as much as in the past but still working for the Post Office and still showing up at the usual haunts and still very much himself. Gene, I believe, is still living and teaching and, I hope, climbing in Salt Lake, as he has been for the past 15 years or so. There are so many "unsung" amazing climbers of that generation from this part of the country--Mike Hartrich and Steve Arsenault, to mention just two more. I have long realized that it is the people in the climbing community as much, if not more, than the activity itself, that have kept me so involved for so many years.
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TrundleBum
Trad climber
Las Vegas
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Jan 21, 2010 - 06:17pm PT
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Ahhh John, Al...
Thankz for chiming in.
This is a total thread jack so we should leave it to Mr. Hartouni.
I'm going to start a Base appreciation thread.
Here's a shot of my first friction soled shoes, looking down sliding board route.
Red canvas R.R friction soles. I wanted to buy EB's but the R.R were less expensive. Silly economics I had to buy E.B's any way as the R.R frictions were no match for the E.B's
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TrundleBum
Trad climber
Las Vegas
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Jan 21, 2010 - 06:21pm PT
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Ed:
I love that pic from the top of the crags. Looks like Cranmore ski area across the valley.
Neither here nor there but my dad contends that the Cranmore 'Ski mobile' was the first commercial ski lift built in the US.
Cranmore Ski Mobile article
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 21, 2010 - 06:27pm PT
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I don't mind if you hijack this thread... but it would be great for you to start an independent thread with a title that expands beyond a TR...
The history is wonderful a la the Stonemaster thread...
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Tomcat
Trad climber
Chatham N.H.
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Jan 23, 2010 - 10:35am PT
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Ok,in this recent photograph,the "Whitehorse" is plain to see.
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slabbo
Trad climber
fort garland, colo
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Jan 23, 2010 - 10:46am PT
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I think I even see Paul Ross !!!!!!!
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tenesmus
Trad climber
slc
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Jan 23, 2010 - 12:49pm PT
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Very cool. Thanks for sharing.
Ed, you are truly committed to that beard and with justification as its, well, luxurious.
I'm curious, have you been without in a while? What's under that thing?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2010 - 01:11pm PT
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since I could grow a beard (junior in high school) I have been without it only one 3 month period during a stint with the California Division of Forestry (CDF) where I served as a Firefighter the summer after high school (1972) before going off to college... I was assigned to the headquarters station in downtown Orange, CA. The CDF was the fire protection for the town, and we had to be ready to fight structure fires as well as brush fires. That meant I needed to be able to wear a respirator, which didn't seal against a beard.
I did have a mustache during that time...
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