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Orange TCU
Trad climber
GA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 4, 2010 - 03:55pm PT
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Well i have a full set of angles that i would like to turn into sawed offs, and i do not know where to begin, im assuming you saw them in half, but with what? a hacksaw? table saw? band saw? personal experience appreciated!
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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Hacksaw with carbide blade, unless you have access to a band saw, etc. Make different lengths, but mostly on the shorter side. Round off the top corners and fresh edges with a grinder or file. Pretty simple, really. Just don’t get the pin hot if you are using any power tools – it will mess up the heat-treatment/strength/hardness. Dip in water to keep cool.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Use protective glasses and earwear.
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Edge
Trad climber
New Durham, NH
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You can also use a Dremel tool with a Fiberglas reinforced cut-off wheel. You may go through a couple discs, but they are fairly easy to use and don't tend to ruin the temper of the metal.
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
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Second (or third) the notion of keeping 'em cool. Get 'em red hot for too long and you have a weird shaped bashie.
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Orange TCU
Trad climber
GA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2010 - 10:36am PT
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thanks to all!
I used a dremel and it worked great, still have al my fingers, no overheating
bring it on, zodiac, your going clean wether you like it or not
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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So I'm a real neophyte when it comes to aid.
Zodiac clean I can dig
How are sawed off angles useful for clean aid? All I can imagine using them for is to pound into old shallow pin scars, instead of tying off a full length angle.
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justin selmanson
Gym climber
long beach
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FWIW we did zodiac clean without the sawed off angles. The only pitch we noticed they could have really been used was the black tower pitch which was hooked through semi casually. good luck. fun route!
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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1. put piton in vice
2. hacksaw off the tip of the piton.
3. file down the edges with a 10" mill bastard file.
You can also place the piton between your boot and one of the concrete parking barriers in the camp 4 parking lot instead of a vice.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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I made some sawed offs in Camp 4 once with a hacksaw.
Didn't have a clamp so I ended up nailing the pin straight into the wood slats of the picnick table!
Worked pretty well!
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Angle grinder + 1/16" cut-off disk + 5 seconds to cut + 15 seconds to round off the tip + 5 seconds to deburr.
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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you shoudl re-state the question to its basics....
"How does one cut through a metal tube...?"
What that said... a hacksaw may come to mind, or one of many appropriate tools available on the open market specifically designed for this purpose....
good luck with that..
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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great tips in this thread on how to 'hold' the pin so you can hack it.
thx!
:)
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Didn't have a clamp so I ended up nailing the pin straight into the wood slats of the picnick table!
Ha! If you did that today a ranger would bust you for vandalism.
Clever idea though.
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WBraun
climber
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I've cut tons of pins with my sawsall.
What's the big deal?
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Wack
climber
Dazevue
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Chongo specs the length for sawed off angles in his wall manual.
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
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Chongo specs the length for sawed off angles in his wall manual.
No manual required. Just cut 'em to about 60% of their original length. There is no "perfect" size just as every pin scar is a different size.
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Peenemunde
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Get your self a chop saw at OSH.
Bang in a few for me on the Shield.
Thank You
Your are going to DIE!
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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BLaw you, WB and M/dorf are giving out to much info and will be Beamed back to the "Mutha ShiP".....
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Here's another top secret tip:
X-em
Paste-em
Rock-em
then, ....
Sniff 'em!
And for those who have read the plagiarised Freedom of the Hills, check to see if it is "emitting a metallic odour", which will indicate it's integrity.
Otherwise, use your judgement, and if it stinks, get off it!
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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^^^^Classic!
Wonder how often that ritual is done nowadayz?
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Rock!...oopsie.
Trad climber
the pitch above you
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Dang... I was hoping somebody would endorse the table saw idea.
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Top of the 5.2-5.12 Boulder
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Hey, Deucey.
Still laughing robustly over THAT one. Cheers!
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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I used to think the "rules" for heading posted above by Deucey were real! I thought that you could smell the copper oxidizing or something if you put it in wrong. Sheesh.
As for sawed-offs:
Remove about 40% of the blade for 1/2" and 5/8", and about 50% of the blade for bigger angles.
I have sawed-offs of slightly different lengths, that make it handy. You're probably good with two each of the smaller sizes and the larger sizes, but for whatever reason, the 3/4" is the size you will use the most on El Cap. So I would cut three of those in three slightly different lengths.
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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<ahem>Pete--was it you, then, who rewrote the aid section in one of the editions of Freedom of the Hills, paraphrasing greatly, sometimes verbatim, from my "Big Wall Tech Manual" without providing references?
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Top of the 5.2-5.12 Boulder
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It Can't Be Done. Ever.
To do so might upset the balance of the Universe, Man.
Do you want THAT on your conscience?
Assuming that you survive the Upset of the balance of the Universe, of course...........Put the saw down Man. Seriously.
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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yeah, like what are you going to do with all those left over little bits of the tips of the pitons?
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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the aid section in one of the editions of Freedom of the Hills
You mean there is an aid section? It must be hidden away between self-arresting and proper use of a space blankie. I guess I haven't been keeping up on my reading.
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Top of the 5.2-5.12 Boulder
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Dude.
It's the balance of the Universe at stake here.
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