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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 27, 2009 - 05:33am PT
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ME:
Four days, rain and snow (!!!) in June, on Tribal Rite. We've got lotsa food, water and beer. Hot coffee, soup, etc. We, Wall Masters, will wait it out. The Rescue Helicopter will later fly close later, to see if we're still alive - and see idiots, in their socks drinking coffee - but, we, the idiot Wall Masters, will gain the summit under out own power.
And our amusement during the Crisis? Looking down the Wall: other parties are anxious to make headway quickly between the weather bands of sun-then-storm clouds that move in - a typical Alaskan system. Every time the sun shows, between bands of rain clouds, there was a flurry of activity, way, way, way, down there. As soon as the storm moves back in, the activity = move into shelter.
The down-wall activity is to no avail. This storm is serious, and anybody (except us) who doesn't bail has to later get rescued.
You have to understand:
The weather storm, out of Alaska, is coming in as ribbons of cloud activity - clear, then storm; clear, then storm; clear, then storm.
This is the way the Storms come in - - - recognize it as such.
You can imagine this Storm as being like the open fingers of your opened hand, if you rotate your hand, slowly, across a weather map - and the Fingers of God are the bands of clouds that move across the land, across California, including Yosemite Valley.
This is the way the Alaskan storms come in: clouds, then clear, clouds, then clear . . . .. . . .
Don't EVER forget to bring your cold-weather gear up there, on El Capitan, kids.
I'm not kidding.
You might freeze your ass off, and you might die.
El Capitan is not to be taken lightly.
I got to photograph the Rescue Helicopter, as it swung close to see if PTPP and I were still alive . . . . .
. . . funny, then, that PTTP and I were the only people on the Wall that day who had no need of a rescue . . . .
PTTP and I were just fine.
We finished our route, to the top.
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Gunkie
Trad climber
East Coast US
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Dec 27, 2009 - 11:33am PT
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Taking a huge steamer on our last day on the Nose after holding it in for two days. Relief!
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Dec 27, 2009 - 11:35am PT
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Tom,
I think mine was Tribal Rite also!
We did the third ascent, survived a storm, and got down to discover that my parents had watched us on the final day through a telescope!!
They met us at Ranger Rock and took us to breakfast, AWESOME!
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Dec 27, 2009 - 12:17pm PT
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So Tom, your best experience was watching others suffer while gloating with PTPP how masterfull you were? Interesting.
Mine was Zod in a Day. Success was unknown, our drive was unmatched by any other wall attempt I'd ever made. And we had beer and pizza.
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john arran
climber
sheffield, uk
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Dec 27, 2009 - 12:36pm PT
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"The look on Anne’s face as she approaches the next belay makes me wonder whether this time we really have overdone it. I’m glad she didn’t fall on that pitch; I wasn’t strictly truthful when I said it was safe, and a slip could well have launched her into mid-air, 400m above the verdant roof of the jungle. While unlikely to cause her any physical harm, it would have been a terrifying experience. And then even for a climber of her experience, regaining contact with the rock would be a complex, nervous and energy-sapping trial.
As it is we’re now in the most inaccessible, most intimidating and most lunatic place I can remember ever having the arguable pleasure of belaying; tucked into a tiny corner in the very heart of the huge, bulging roof, under a large ceiling of smooth, compact sandstone. The way here was hard and irreversible, and from here our choices are severely limited by the patently unclimbable ceiling above us and the severely overhanging walls to either side. Our only chance is to the right, where the ludicrously undercut sidewall is teasing us with the promise of a horizontal crack leading out under the ceiling. But from here the crack is tantalisingly out of reach and frustratingly out of clear view.
“The way I see it we have three options,” I explain in as matter-of-fact way as my racing pulse permits. “Ideally we’ll be able to climb directly up to the ceiling from here, and what looks like it may be a handrail will lead from there the fifteen or so metres out right to the edge, where we’ll find big holds to pull round on.” We both look out right, then above us trying to envisage moves up the decidedly blank wall, then back at each other as it is all too obvious this first option isn’t going to happen. No matter how stupid we may have been to find ourselves in this situation, to compound it by trying ridiculously hard moves above the hollow block we’re both tied to would be asking for serious trouble.
“The second option, “ I continue, “is to find some holds around this corner here…” whereupon I extend my tether and lean across from the belay, past the tiny sloping edges we can see, which probably aren’t good enough but just might be, to find that even these melt into a smooth and unclimbable wall. Our eyes meet again, just as Anne is trying to stop her look of ‘this really isn’t fun any more’ from becoming one of genuine terror. For we both know only too well what the third option is.
Our eyes drop as we look down at our feet, where the end of our tiny ledge dissolves into a horizontal fissure running along the very lip of the undercut sidewall ...
If anyone's interested the rest of the story is at http://www.thefreeclimber.com/articles/tfcPizzaEtc.htm
Now we've moved to the Pyrenees we have big adventures on our doorstep, but the nearby granite is 'only' 2,200ft high and usually climbed in a day. Still, it's great to be able to do big routes and sleep in your own bed at night!
http://www.chezarran.com/index.php
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Dec 27, 2009 - 12:45pm PT
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Lambone, you could take it that Tom and PTPP were happy that they had prepared well in regard to the other teams and that they weren't exactly happy that others were suffering but merely that they were not.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Dec 27, 2009 - 09:12pm PT
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Lurking Fear, first El Cap route, great experience full of massive rock slide, storm and long days. I don't know how I can top it at this point, but I'm always looking for the next adventure.
Knowing that you don't have to rush it and that you still have beer makes the experience so much more fun. This is such a key point for myself as well.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Dec 27, 2009 - 10:42pm PT
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Looking at El Cap from the base for the first time after standing on the top for the first time.
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Top of the 5.2-5.12 Boulder
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Dec 27, 2009 - 11:03pm PT
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Whoa. Tough question.
Had some seriously shinin' times on the Tall Stones.
Kinda like climbin' Desert Towers. Each one is the best Damn tower EVER!
Hmmmmm.
AfroMan, maybe? It was pretty sweet. Had an unabashed blast.
Or the Zode, 1st El Cap route, had a storm, came out shinin'.
There are several awesome times, for sure.
I dunno.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Dec 27, 2009 - 11:15pm PT
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Hey there, Matt - you a bit doped up on your pain meds not to see Tom's tongue planted firmly in his cheek? He describes us big wall wankers as "idiot wall masters".
But I'm with Tom - I take great pleasure in being comfortable in the most hostile of environments. I actually look forward to storms on the Captain, because it means a nice rest day warm and dry in our ledges.
Even these guys on El Cap Towers and the Boot Flake looked well prepared:
We dodged the raindrops and snowflakes just long enough to get up the RURP pitch:
The views of the clearing storm, which appeared as Tom describes above, were stunning:
We did manage to escape from our portaledge flies from time to time, long enough to enjoy a nice hot cup of joe:
Yeah, we made the summit, which we shared with Warren Harding's Wall of Early Morning Light, arguably the best El Cap Top-Out there is! Tom has described this perfect haul station in another post, but I can't find it. Does anyone have a link?
Anyway, here's the view from the top, standing on a perfect one-foot-wide hauling ledge, looking down at Tom with the pigs and ledges one pitch below, with the bridge visible at left:
Yeah, we made the summit. But Tom never mentioned in the post above that he dropped his sleeping bag off the wall! I don't remember if he dropped it before the storm, but suspect he did. He spent the rest of the wall sleeping in his pig when possible. I think I loaned him a pair of furry pants.
Anyway, he was so tired on the summit, he fell asleep in his pig, with his head pillowed against a boulder at this impossible angle!
I always had good times on the wall with Tom, and learned lots of cool stuff from him. We should do another one soon, dude...
Cheers,
Pete
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Dec 27, 2009 - 11:41pm PT
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yup I am pretty doped up these days. I enjoy El Cap storms too, but I have been lucky enough to be in the right place at the right time.
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monolith
climber
Berkeley, CA
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Dec 28, 2009 - 01:56am PT
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My partner for Salathe Wall said the best thing about getting away would be not hearing his baby cry for a few days. I knew he would miss his family dearly, so I had his wife record a message on a small tape recorder.
We played it on a beautiful, star filled night on El Cap Spire. The baby was heard crying but I think he shed a tear also.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Dec 28, 2009 - 02:16am PT
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Too many to pick from; I got to be top out guy on every El Cap route I've done, and those were all special. Watching the the dawn over halfdome while the diving peregrines screamed their greeting, and then catching the colonel on a 50+ footer on the seagull is hard to forget, as was jugging up to that ledge on Aquarius and having said faller present me with a freshly brewed cup of Joe, bivvying on the shield headwall where it was so steep that the bags and the ledges didn't touch the wall was cool, Going from vertigo to kinesthetic joy (with exposure) while leading pancake flake, was enlightening....
Melissa might be on to something though. When I did the EL cap lieback with my family, and could, for the first time, piece together all the pitches of Mescalito (days fresh in my brain at the time) was a time I found moving...
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 28, 2009 - 03:30am PT
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I would have to say that surviving a bad storm was also my high point and my low point was being in the storm and wondering about survival.
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jack herer
climber
veneta, or
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Dec 28, 2009 - 04:02am PT
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topping out on zodiac, just below steve muse???(sorry if thats the wrong name) a parapalegic who finally returned to climb el cap again after his accident. watching him struggle to finally get over that lip and when he did i had the most amazing feeling. when i topped out a couple minnutes later seeing his the joy in his eyes is something i will never forget. now that is bad ass.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Dec 28, 2009 - 11:19am PT
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I've spent a fair number of days and nights up there but the best night I ever experienced was my first on the approach to the Shield this October after a 30 year hiatus.
I love the way El Cap blocks out the sky and is totally black and the rest of the sky is filled with stars.
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Ottawa Doug
Social climber
Ottawa, Canada
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Dec 28, 2009 - 01:48pm PT
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Tribal Rite June '08, last night two pitches below the top, 18 year old scotch and a cuban cigar.
: )
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mongrel
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Dec 28, 2009 - 01:54pm PT
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Like Jaybro, I'd say leading Pancake Flake. If that pitch (well, the 5.9 part) were at the ground, it would be mobbed. Where it sits, it's got to be the most exhilarating pitch of its rating anwhere.
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Gagner
climber
Boulder
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Dec 28, 2009 - 02:08pm PT
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Mid to late-ish '80's.
3rd one day ascent of the Salathe with Steve "Lucky" Smith.
Rarely have I had such a perfect day.
No epics - no fixed gear, stuck ropes, or other jive. Just super efficent and epic free climbing. Smoke break on EC Spire because we were 1 1/2 hours ahead of schedule.
Bluebird day - perfect temps, no wind!
Made it down to the bottom of the East Ledges raps just as it got dark.
Paul
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Prod
Trad climber
Dodge Sprinter Dreaming
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Dec 28, 2009 - 02:44pm PT
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I only have 1 wall under my belt. but what I remember the most of that climb was
1. 1st night sleeping on a ledge.
2. Leading the nipple pitch with cam hooks.
3. Deciding that I was going to ask this woman to marry me.
Prod.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Dec 28, 2009 - 03:17pm PT
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Nice one prod!
The King Swing was an Epic moment for me, up in my top 5 "best" EC moments...will never forget that pendi. Super fun....just swinging back and forth thinking "This is so f*#king cool, who gets to do this shit!!!!!"
Wall climbers, that's who.
I also concur with Melissa "Looking up at El Cap for the first time after climbing it." What a rush, unforgettable. Top 5 moments for sure.
Another was smoking a spliff in my first Free Hanging bivi on Tripple Direct. My first route. WOW, talk about a perspective slap in the face.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 28, 2009 - 03:59pm PT
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Nice one, Gagner. Lucky is an old buddy from the Bay Area. A fine partner. Cheers.
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mr p
Big Wall climber
eastside ca
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Dec 28, 2009 - 07:48pm PT
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the white room with walt intense!!!!!
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kent
Trad climber
SLC, Ut
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Dec 28, 2009 - 09:42pm PT
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My first wall, prodigal sun. I was a total gumby climbing with an experienced stranger. We lazily decided to do the wall in a day, but we should have fixed a few before to help the cause. I got to lead 6 of the 9 pitches, including the last three in the dark. Topping out at 2 am, I was overcome with an overwhelming mix of feelings; exhaustion, accomplishment, and excitement for bigger things to come.
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Brendan
Trad climber
Yosemite, CA
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Dec 29, 2009 - 01:00am PT
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PTPP, that is an AWESOME pic of tom in the pig! hahaha.
For me, Getting so lost in the stars that I can't remember where I end and they start.
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 29, 2009 - 04:34am PT
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As PTPP said, "the wall idiots" were able to survive the storm. The reason I count that New Dawn to Tribal Rite ascent as my best Wall Experience, was (go figure) it was the one time hauling all that extra weight made sense. We were able to wait out a long storm, in perfect (sic) comfort.
I should not have written about schadenfreude. That was a cruel, unnecessary thing to mention. I guess my intent was to point out the difference of our methodology of too much weight and too many pigs, compared to the normal system of going up light and fast.
PTPP and I were wall camping, not wall climbing. The weather, then, favored our demented idea of how to go, and attack, The Big Wall. PTPP has had more than his share of ridicule about his wall climbing technique, as being ridiculous. But, that time, on ND to TR, he proved the worth of his conservative style.
I'll never, ever, forget the rescue helicopter coming by, close, to see how we were doing, expecting we were in a bad situation, and calculating how to save another party from the face of El Capitan. Those Naval Aviators out of Lemoore are the best chopper pilots in the world, and they're very smart. When they came by in the clear day after the storm, and saw PTPP and me at ease, drinking coffee in our socks instead of climbing up the Wall, this was probably what they thought:
Those Goddam crazy climbers are insane. Look at these two idiots. I'm never coming back, if these are the lower lifeforms we risk our lives to save . . .. .
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wildone
climber
GHOST TOWN
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Dec 29, 2009 - 05:06am PT
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I'd have to say, pulling up on the worst error bivi ledge, and watching with my partner Eric a Peregrine getting super harassed by a bunch of ravens, and seeing the peregrine gain elevation, dive, then kill the sh#t out of one of the ravens.
Muy infermo. Muy frio.
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 29, 2009 - 05:11am PT
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wildone - I've seen the Birds up there, but not that way.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Dec 29, 2009 - 09:58am PT
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Had a fun time on Octopussy with Kate this fall. Down low, it was so hot I rapped to the ground to grab an extra three gallons of water for fear we would run out.
A week later, it was so cold, we put on our portaledge flies one night just to stay warm. "It's too cold to rain," I declared. "The cold front has come through, no way we'll see precip tonight."
Kate was bivied below, travelling a bit light in anticipation of a third member who decided to bail. So she was without bivi sack - which I think she'll agree could have been a big mistake - and her fly didn't have a floor. There were pretty big holes around the six points of suspension, and she complained of the wind blowing up and through from underneath. She did at least have a good sleeping pad.
In the middle of the night, I was awakened by the increasing thunder of water pouring down on my ledge fly. Evidently it had begun raining, and worst of all, we appeared to be in a runoff zone! I was pretty scared, wondering if my fly could survive the pummelling. It went on for what seemed like several minutes, getting louder and stronger! What made it even more scary was the realization that we were in the exact same spot as where Tommy T. and Erik E. got trapped during The Big Storm. I figured I'd be fine, though, with my floored fly, bivi sack, sleeping pad, extra warm clothes and rain gear.
Eventually, the deluge subsided, and I shouted down to Kate in fear, "Holy frig! Are you OK?!"
Her voice rang up merrily, "Yeah, I'm great! How 'bout you?"
We went back to sleep, and in the morning awoke to discover that it had been snow, not rain, pouring down on our ledges! Thank goodness. We took some cool photos, which I'll post, and declared it to be a Rest Day. Plenty of coffee and hot soup was to follow. We later agreed it was the most fun day of the entire wall.
It was so cold that day, I had to put my bottle of cab into my sleeping bag with me for about three hours in order to warm it up to drinking temperature - sheesh. Had I known how cold it would become, I'd've brought a chardonnay instead.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Dec 29, 2009 - 11:45am PT
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I was there when you guys were up on Tribal Rite. I remember being not worried about you at all, while there were some other parties like up on Salathe and Shield that we weren't so sure about. I remember watching Pete lead the Carrot for like 5 hrs in the Meadow...lol. When I saw the pic with all the screamers I understood.
I forget what we got on that year...but shortly after the weather cleared we hopped on the big stone.
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Gagner
climber
Boulder
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Dec 30, 2009 - 01:05pm PT
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The peregrine story reminded me of a time when Chris Bellizie and I did an early ascent of the PO wall (1980) and we were sitting on our ledges set-up at the Island in the Sky ledge. In a fraction of a second a peregrine flew up from below, obviously oblivious that we were on the ledge, to land on it. At the last second, after it saw us, it stalled out for a sec and then turned and dove away. The bird was less that 6' away from us, and of course it happened in a fraction of a second. That was cool.
Paul
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 30, 2009 - 02:34pm PT
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I remember watching Pete lead the Carrot for like 5 hrs in the Meadow...lol. When I saw the pic with all the screamers I understood.
That Carrot thing is like a gigantic, expando stalactite. If I'd tried to clean the pitch in the normal fashion, it would have closed up and crushed the upper pieces. PTPP had to clean it on rappel, from the top down.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Dec 30, 2009 - 02:56pm PT
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interesting
pretty cool Paul. They are big beautiful birds up close.
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Chief
climber
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Dec 30, 2009 - 03:04pm PT
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My first El Cap route, Mescalito in the fall of 77.
Scott and I did it right after Mark and Max (eighth ascent?).
Five and a half days of golden bliss.
The NA with Schultz and the PO with Sutton stand out as well.
PB
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wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
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Dec 31, 2009 - 04:19am PT
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They have all been spectacular, but a particularly memorable one was Bad Seed in 98 with Brian McCray and Hans Florine. It was my first push of El Cap, the 5th ascent of the route, and we did it in 19:12. When we topped out I remember blurting out, 'that was fun!' I had the biggest smile on my face, for days.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Dec 31, 2009 - 08:39am PT
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Bad Seed was a great route! Not really too hard - although it has its moments as they all seem to - but a really great line straight up the face, nowhere near as wandering as Bad Sign. Bill Russell's 5/16" buttonheads in the belays were still bomber, so we didn't have to replace anything.
The corner systems on Bad Seed are absolutely superb, some great nailing, and really cool geometry. Sharp edges, too - holy. We completely bypassed hauling to one of the belays, the edge was so nasty.
I remember placing lots of heads and beaks, and oh yes - taping down hooks for pro with this really spiffy blue duct tape!
Kate and I did it faster than you guys, though - I believe our time was 10:12. Good Times on Bad Seed!
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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Dec 31, 2009 - 09:01am PT
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being inside of the crescent arch on half dome was quite surreal.
the offwidth off the deck was punishing.
bailing in a snowstorm thru the night was epic. rappelling sideways with a haulbag made quick work of me.
in the photo you can see the cloud ceiling lowering over the lip of the dome. helicopter rescues insued the following morning, as a foot of snow covered the spring break hordes.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
obsessively minitracking all winter at Knob Hill
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The rain was possibly the most sublime hour of my life. Sunshine and intermittent clouds rolled over Tuolumne and the high country; Hoffman and Conness shone between the puffies. A sheet of rain crept around the corner from Cloud's Rest, stalling out around the edge of that piney buttress sticking out into the canyon. The evening sun lit it up with a huge rainbow as I was pulling into the Cave, atop the ramp pitch. Meanwhile, downvalley, Mordor! Evil blackness punctuated with flashes from within had subsumed El Cap and points west. It,too, appeared stationary, at least for the moment. Later I heard they had hail, rain, lightning strikes, the whole bit. I wanted no part of this.
Heaven to the east; hell to the west, and me in the middle counting out lightning strikes from beneath the fangs of the Cave like the Count of Tenaya Canyon: "One! Bwah ha ha, Two!bwah-ha-ha, Three!...Boom!" Eventually Mordor closed in and I rapped back over to the Ramp bivy as dusk settled in. Just as I put myself on rappel and began sliding into the dimness, a huge wave of fog washed up the cliff, enveloping me in the grey nothing...purgatory. No exposure, just quiet oceanic stillness, with occasional flickers of lightning to show me the bags over to which I was jugging. Hopped in the ledge and cracked a cold one.
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Prod
Trad climber
Dodge Sprinter Dreaming
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PFC Caylor
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Mike Lechlinski and I made an early ascent of the Shield (mid-70s), before there were any pin scars. What a location. On one pitch, every pin was a blade or Bugaboo and every last one was tied off.
Another time shortly thereafter, I was on a new route on Watkins with Bridwell, Kauk and Schmitz. We couldn't see but a half a pitch ahead of us most of the time and I couldn't believe the route kept coming together like it did. There was a 5.10a freeway dike that cut across the fact at the 2,500 foot level. Without that the route would have 200 bolts, instead of the 30 or so it has.
Lastly, Hugh Burton and I climbed a new wall in El Gran Trono Blanco, Mexico, and we couldn't even see the line from the ground, and only hoped it was there. It was, though barely, and we had a fantastic time with no rippers. One sling bivy and we were off. I consider that one almost a fluke.
JL
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Denise Umstot
climber
Princess of the El Cap Bridge!
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Pass the Piton Pete...You sure you were on Bad Seed and not some bad weed! There is no way you could climb that in 10:12!
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Whatever do you mean, Princess of the Bridge? I timed it myself. Ten days and twelve hours.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Pete, quit friggin around and finish the TRs. work to be done.
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Denise Umstot
climber
Princess of the El Cap Bridge!
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Pass the Piton Pete...Hahahaha You were moving...you are my hero :)
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Prod
Trad climber
Dodge Sprinter Dreaming
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When I was new (newer) to this forum I remember hearing about how SLOW PTPP was. Then I looked af Hans' page and was also confused...
Prod.
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Top of the 5.2-5.12 Boulder
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Pete is slow on purpose. All good.
I dunno about that "hans page". Hiya, Prod!
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Prod
Trad climber
Dodge Sprinter Dreaming
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Happy New YEars Skully!
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Slakkey
Big Wall climber
From Back to Big Wall Baby
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I agree with Munge, Pete we want TRs :)
Edt, Pete its not nice to fool the Fair Maiden of the El Cap Bridge
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Nor is it nice [if you wanna git any] to undersell the Princess as a mere maiden.
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Denise Umstot
climber
Princess of the El Cap Bridge!
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Mere maiden I am not...PTPP knows best!
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Ben Doyle
climber
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Feb 21, 2011 - 02:16pm PT
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Wow, those are great photos of tribal rite! You mind if I use them for a web site im building for an html class?
Ben Doyle
bejaminjdoyle@gmail.com
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Feb 21, 2011 - 05:18pm PT
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good story about Tribal Rite.
In my years of experience on El Cap, I found that your exact location is highly sensitive to how bad a storm will seem.
When Steve Quinlan and I did Tribal Rite, it stormed every day, but it didn't really slow us down, not because we were bad-ass (but of course we were), but also because the storm was predominately coming in from down-valley, and we were sheltered by the Nose shielding us on our left.
There were no climbers on the left side during that storm.
On the other hand, when I climbed Cosmos with Jimmy Dunn, we were in probably the worst position when a fierce storm hit--completely exposed on all sides at a point where the wall was overhanging below us, sloping above us, and sticking out on both left and right from other parts of the wall. We got slammed. We led two more pitches in the storm in fierce winds and icy sleet, and got to an overhang, where all was calm, and we bivied for a couple nights while the storm passed.
I found the same type of phenomena on the right side. Some places were relatively sheltered, and others completely exposed, but not always obvious which were which until an actual storm hit.
It's a whole 'nother ecosystem up there.
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Feb 21, 2011 - 06:54pm PT
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Pretty light compared to all you heavies but we did the WFLT and I worried and worried about everything the night before, and on the hike up, and as I was tying in-but when I clipped that first bolt and stood on that aider all those scaries went away. I'll never forget how that felt.
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Moof
Big Wall climber
Orygun
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Feb 21, 2011 - 07:30pm PT
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My best? Every one that involved summiting.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Feb 21, 2011 - 09:46pm PT
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Best experience is hard to pinpoint, but my mind keeps coming back to topping out on Iron Hawk after my first solo of El Cap. I purposely chose a route that was longer and harder than anything I had yet climbed, and was pretty gripped the whole time.
Ben - no problem. Send me the link when you're finished. Cheers.
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east side underground
Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
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Feb 21, 2011 - 11:49pm PT
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with only a few El Caps routes to my credit can't compare with you heavys but Zodiac with my bro Fowler (murry) was pure fun , laughing joking just being the fools- unlike our last venture on a failed P.O. attempt where that mean 'ol sun baked us to a crisp. Got to get back on that horse Murry.
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Scole
Trad climber
San Diego
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Feb 24, 2011 - 08:56am PT
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Hanging out on my ledge all afternoon at the base of the Triple Cracks on the Shield on my 30th b-day, 10th E.C. rt, and first solo. I had every treat you can imagine, a big bag of the Yosemite Remedy, plenty of good beer, and my famous El Cap Chicken Dijon.
With the triple cracks fixed (but not cleaned)I was surrounded by color, blue sky, puffy white clouds and golden stone, with pink, purple, and blue flowers. The pitch above was strung with every color of tie-off material available in the mtn. shop, and a Hollywood Rattlesnake tying it all together.
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OR
Trad climber
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Feb 24, 2011 - 10:57am PT
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Getting off Zodiac in 1993 in March after a 3 day sufferfest of rain and sleet.
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