1975 "The Eiger Sanction" Routes in Monument Valley & Zion

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KM

Mountain climber
Milan
Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 17, 2009 - 01:55am PT

Dear Sirs

The Eiger Sanction (1975)

I am trying to identify the name of the features which Clint Eastwood climb in Monument Valley.

http://www.mitteleuropa.t35.com/climbs.html


www.mitteleuropa.t35.com/climbs.html


FISSURE

http://mitteleuropa.t35.com/files/snapshot20091215093424.jpg

Monument Valley starts at 00:57:25 after a cut from the canyon above Zion Lodge at Zion in Utah.

Clint Eastwood is climbing up a fissure between a huge spire and the mesa behind it. He reaches the top and appears to jump from the mesa to the spire. Although the camera angle changes a little which makes comparison difficult.

Does any one recognize this feature ?


TRAPEZE


The next scene is when he is pulling himself across a rope between a spire and the mesa. In the background is the Totem Pole

Q: What is the name of this Mesa and what is the name of the climb ?



TOTEM POLE

The next scene is the Totem Pole itself.


Q: On what face of the Totem Pole is the route and does it have a name ?


Thanks for your help.


Kurt.


http://www.mitteleuropa.t35.com/climbs.html
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Dec 17, 2009 - 02:01am PT
I know they climbed the Totem Pole, but I'm not sure about anything else.

John
deuce4

climber
Hobart, Australia
Dec 17, 2009 - 02:19am PT
Much of the footage ( including the "training climb", and most of the close up climbing footage of Clint and George Kennedy, was performed above Goulding's Lodge. The lodge has been rebuilt since the film was made, but if you wander around over there (on the other side of the road from Monument Valley), you will recognise some of the cliffs in the movie.

Of course the Totem Pole itself was climbed too, Eric Bjornstadt was part of the real climbing crew. They climbed the original route, that faces the road, and the route was chopped per agreement after the film was made. All of the (illegal) ascents since were made on the opposite side (the "Bandito Route"), which is hidden from view from the Totem pole turn-off road.

Some of the shots were taken on short cliffs with background scenics, such as this one:

Incidentally, I got to bag the first ascent of the Rooster Rock (with Alan Humphreys), beauty adventure.
deuce4

climber
Hobart, Australia
Dec 17, 2009 - 02:40am PT
Funny, I have never heard of the name "Pioneer Woman". I have always thought of the five smaller spires behind the Totem Pole all as the Yei Bi Chei's (and have climbed the first ascent of two of them).
deuce4

climber
Hobart, Australia
Dec 17, 2009 - 02:48am PT
In any case, get in touch with Eric Bjornstadt, in Moab, Utah (you can usually find a contact for him at Lin Ottenger's Rock Shop). He'll have all your answers.
KM

Mountain climber
Milan
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 17, 2009 - 10:58am PT

PIONEER WOMAN

The name appears to have been given to the cola bottle shaped spire behind the Yei Bi Chei grouping.


http://www6.nau.edu/library/scadb/imagedisplay.cfm?item_num=19985&type=Image

crunch

Social climber
CO
Dec 17, 2009 - 12:06pm PT
The route on the Totem Pole is on the west face.

It was not given a name at the time of the first ascent (1957)--the tower is so skinny, they never thought anyone else might climb another route!

But there are now two routes.

It could be called the West Face of the Totem Pole, or the Original Route, or even the more formal Powell-Wilson-Gallwas-Fuererer. My vote would go to "Original Route," accurate, concise. The west side of the formation is so thin, it's barely a face.

The climbing team on the 1975 movie ascent was Eric Bjornstad and Ken Wyrick.

Jack Burns

climber
Dec 17, 2009 - 01:03pm PT
I always thought the route he's doing when he trundles the rock on George Kennedy is the Cave Route in Zion. It's that wide 5.7 with a bunch of jugs on it that is furthest left on the Cerberus Gendarme. That's what it always looked like to me anyway.

When I did that route, I was thinking "suppose I can't cling to the edges...suppose I got forced down into the gut of the chute."
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 17, 2009 - 01:14pm PT
When I did that route, I was thinking "suppose I can't cling to the edges...suppose I got forced down into the gut of the chute."

Well...

"If the edges are not a go, we'll retreat and follow one of the classic routes."

Friggin' classic quotes...!

-Brian in SLC
Indianclimber

Trad climber
Las Vegas
Dec 17, 2009 - 01:48pm PT
Camster (Rhymes with Hamster)

Social climber
CO
Dec 17, 2009 - 03:26pm PT
Eric Bjornstad strung the TP with rope for the film, then jumared up, yanking the original hardware, and was helicoptered off the top. Weirdly, the entire time Clint and George were on the summit, Eric was just dangling over the edge, out of sight. I have one of the bongs Eric and...darn, who was the other climber?...used in establishing the fixed ropes.
TrundleBum

Trad climber
Las Vegas
Dec 17, 2009 - 03:35pm PT


I have a bong as well as a copy of 'The Eiger Sanction' and just a few nights ago I was using one while watching the other.

Great Movie. Iconic now.
I also have a copy of 'Dirty Harry'. I love the scene where he has confronted/presented Scorpio with the ransom money at the big Cross on the hill in San Fran. When Scorpio has Clint down and is kicking him in the ribs is when Clint knives him in the leg. As the knife blow is delivered the camera view is from Clint's perspective on the ground looking up.
You can see an old leeper hanger up there on the cross. Does that route up the cross still exist and who put it there originally ?
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Dec 17, 2009 - 03:38pm PT
I don't remember wo the other climber was but there is a covedr shot article in either an old Summit or off belay. I will pick it up next week when i'm at the ranch.


What ever happened to the girl from the Eiger sanction?
-Brenda Venus, last seen in 48hrs according to IMDB
KM

Mountain climber
Milan
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 17, 2009 - 03:41pm PT
I had got as far as being unable to match one sequence of film to the next, when looking at the climbs. For instance, in the first frames on the page, they seem to start in Zion Canyon above Zion Lodge, then cut to that huge crack at Monument half way through. OK they never said it was one climb.

http://mitteleuropa.t35.com/files/es_eiger_sanction_clint_eastwood_frame_20091209184556.jpg

http://mitteleuropa.t35.com/files/snapshot20091215093424.jpg


For the others, I was beginning to be mistrustful of continuity in each scene. To the point where unless I had a photographic match, there was no saying where the scene was filmed based on a few seconds of continuity. For example, when Clint Eastwood kills the bodyguard and then holds Miles Mellough at gunpoint. The scene with Melloughs, the Thunderbird and the side of the shotgun just at the edge of the frame

http://mitteleuropa.t35.com/files/es_eiger_sanction_clint_eastwood_frame_20091215102714_01-01a.jpg

I think may have been filmed in a separate location to the fork in the road where Clint Eastwood spins the Ford Bronco around and heads back towards them. I am still trying to find two Mesas to make a narrow gap. Preferably with a road running between

them and even better if the road has a fork. You can make out some detail in the rock on the Mesa which is a help.


In the shot with Clint Eastwood pulling himself over the lip of the edge with Rooster Rock in the background, I could not get a match behind the scene or in front of it. My guess is that, as you point out, they filmed a lot of scenes in&around and then handed it all to the editor.

Poetic license I can live with: The bodyguard is shot not far from the Totem Pole. Miles Melloughs is told to get out of the Ford Bronco "in the middle of the desert" about five hundred meters from where the bodyguard was killed on the other side of the Totem Pole. But the editor intersposing different climbs, as well as pieces of bouldering is enough to drive you to strong drink. The only advantage we gain is that the editor's eye picks out attractive features and attractive features are
easy to identify.


GOULDINGS.

Has Gouldings being rebuilt from 1975 ?

I do not know the area well. I have driven own US163 once but I did not have all my prepared notes with me. I could only have done a day or so of work so this would not have been a big advantage now I have reached this stage with the detail.



Do you recognize the airstrip used to portray Clint Eastwood's arrival ?

https://mitteleuropa.t35.com/eiger_sanction_airfield.html


To drive from Gouldings to Monument Valley Road, Merricks Butte, et cetera. I head South away from Gouldings, rejoin US163, turning right, then take a left into Monuement Valley Road perhaps 1500m from there ? Do I have this right ? I do not have my aircharts / USGS with me as I am traveling in the Middle East.


Anyone know when Harry Goulding died ?

crunch

Social climber
CO
Dec 17, 2009 - 03:50pm PT
Funny, I already posted this name upthread!

The climbing team on the 1975 movie ascent was Eric Bjornstad and Ken Wyrick.

Wyrick was also on the first ascent of the Sundevil Chimney in 1971, with Harvey Carter et al.

What else did Wyrick do? Crooked Arrow Spire FA, River Tower FA, Window Route on Echo Tower FA....
Camster (Rhymes with Hamster)

Social climber
CO
Dec 17, 2009 - 03:55pm PT
Short-term memory loss....
crunch

Social climber
CO
Dec 17, 2009 - 04:46pm PT
Hey Cam, KM would be Kylie Minogue, don't you think?

Hey Kylie, Eric Bjornstad's phone is 435 259 7516. I'm sure he'd be psyched to talk about the Totem Pole, and the movie locations.
Camster (Rhymes with Hamster)

Social climber
CO
Dec 17, 2009 - 06:57pm PT
Ooooohhh.

Steve, you know Kylie's sister....oh what the hell's her name?....is the big thing now.

BTW: I interviewed Eric on video regarding the Eiger Sanction (and other stuff) in October, but his memory has gone to sh#t, sadly.

BTW, I've been egging him on to finish his autobiography.
KM

Mountain climber
Milan
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 18, 2009 - 03:13am PT
>Sewellymon wrote:
>I've always wanted to see a photo of Clint's training partner "George"
>

http://www.mitteleuropa.t35.com/filmlocations_eiger_sanction.html#brendavenus
Wack

climber
Dazevue
Dec 18, 2009 - 08:28am PT
In '85 on the way back from the Cirque of the Towers we ran into Eric at the REI SLC store. We told him we were buying wide pro for Castleton. Eric gave us Linn's name, we were shocked to find out that his Rock Shop actually sold rocks.
KM

Mountain climber
Milan
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 18, 2009 - 09:25am PT

>Jaybro wrote:
>I don't remember wo the other climber was but there is a
>covedr shot article in either an old Summit or off belay.
> I will pick it up next week when i'm at the ranch.
>

I would be very interested in any information, references or scans. This would be very helpful thank you.



>What ever happened to the girl from the Eiger sanction?
>-Brenda Venus, last seen in 48hrs according to IMDB
>

Presumably the equipment started to show its age and she had to move onto other areas of the arts. She seemed to be highly talented, publishing several books:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brenda_Venus

It must be fabulous for a woman to have her beauty immortalized in celluloid like that, however.

KM
Reeotch

Trad climber
Kayenta, AZ
Dec 18, 2009 - 11:17am PT
http://wiijzeman.files.wordpress.com/2008/11/1brenda-venus1.jpg

She'd keep me in shape . . .
rick d

climber
ol pueblo, az
Dec 18, 2009 - 12:36pm PT
http://www.brendavenus.com/

oh boy!
KM

Mountain climber
Milan
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 19, 2009 - 04:37am PT

>deuce4 wrote:
>
>Funny, I have never heard of the name "Pioneer Woman". I have
> always thought of the five smaller spires behind the Totem
>Pole all as the Yei Bi Chei's (and have climbed the first
>ascent of two of them)
>

http://www.mitteleuropa.t35.com/climbs.html#pioneerwoman
KM

Mountain climber
Milan
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 19, 2009 - 04:48am PT

>Cameron Burns wrote:
>
>Ooooohhh.
>
>Steve, you know Kylie's sister....oh what the
>hell's her name?....is the big thing now.
>
>BTW: I interviewed Eric on video regarding the
> Eiger Sanction (and other stuff) in October,
>but his memory has gone to sh#t, sadly.
>

Any salient facts or anecdotes you care to quote I will include.

Did he mention where all the cast and crew stayed while they were filming in Monument Valley ? Did they all camp out like they did in "Lawrence of Arabia" or where they billeted here in and there at whatever Gasthof had space ?

>BTW, I've been egging him on to finish his
> autobiography.
>

Use force, threats, bribery, flattery, pleading, nagging, anything.

"That which is not written down, might as well never have happened."

KM
KM

Mountain climber
Milan
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 19, 2009 - 05:10am PT

ROOSTER ROCK:

http://www.mitteleuropa.t35.com/roosterrock.html

Can any one identify the crag that Clint Eastwood is climbing on in this scene ? It appears to be on the face of or at the base of the Mesa visible in another scene.

Is the axis of Rooster Rock visible in the frame, the long axis or does it run away from the camera ?

Much thanks your helps.

KM
KM

Mountain climber
Milan
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 19, 2009 - 09:07am PT
Any one recognize the location of the airfield and the heading of the aircraft and the Ford Bronco ?


http://mitteleuropa.t35.com/eiger_sanction_airfield.html


The color of the earth and the terrain point to the same area.

rick d

climber
ol pueblo, az
Dec 19, 2009 - 09:30am PT
kurt-

the landing strip is off the highway northeast of stagecoach etc, but the bronco driving scenes are even closer to the mexican hat area (although stagecoach etc are still visible in the backdrop).
KM

Mountain climber
Milan
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 20, 2009 - 03:20am PT
>rick d wrote:
>
>kurt-
>
>the landing strip is off the highway northeast of stagecoach
>etc, but the bronco driving scenes are even closer to the
> mexican hat area (although stagecoach etc are still visible
>in the backdrop).
>

OK - I was beginning to suspect that the scene with the Bronco charging the Ford Thunderbird was outside the area I had been looking (Totem Pole, Merricks Butte, etc).

So the scene where the Bronco spins around and charges the Thunderbird is over in the Mexican Hat / Stagecoach area ?
rick d

climber
ol pueblo, az
Dec 20, 2009 - 09:25am PT

A on the mapping software shows the existing airstrip (2004 software) and B is the little "town" 3.5 miles West South West of Mexican Hat, Utah where dirt roads dump onto highway 163. The distance from airstrip (and plane) to Stagecoach is closer than where the Ford Bronco drives onto the pavement. I believe that one of those dirt roads is the location of the truck filming.

Also, the Hollywood Chimney (Bjornstad, Desert Rock, pg 401, Chockstone press 1988) is really obvious in the notch that leads to Hospital. There is an outstanding thin hands crack through a bulge that Wyrick/Bjornstad et al did not do just left of the Hollywood Chim.


hope that helps
KM

Mountain climber
Milan
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2009 - 11:30am PT


>rick d wrote:
>A on the mapping software shows the existing airstrip (2004 software)
>and B is the little "town" 3.5 miles West South West of Mexican Hat,
>Utah where dirt roads dump onto highway 163. The distance from
>airstrip (and plane) to Stagecoach is closer than where the Ford
> Bronco drives onto the pavement. I believe that one of those
>dirt roads is the location of the truck filming.
>

A Thousand Thanks oh Noble One. And a Blessing on all your Descendants.

I have just spent a couple of man-days straight looking at yet more photographs of Monument Valley (mainly the Stagecoach area) and have just re-visited the airfield photographs and spotted the Stagecoach this morning. I just logged into Supertopo now to find your immensely helpful supertopo.

http://mittleuropa.t35.com/eiger_sanction_airfield.html#stagecoach

http://mittleuropa.t35.com/es_monument_valley_maps.html#stagecoach120

If I ever see another photograph of Monument Valley again ...

There was no stop sign at the exit from Gouldings in 1975, so it is not the exit from Gouldings, so likely you are dead-on about the location of the Bronco turning right.

I may not be able to work out exactly which intersection it was until I re-visit. But I will keep on asking folk who live and work in the area.

It looks like I have found the pilot who flew the aircraft into the airfield in the movie.

Once I identify three points in the Butte/Mesa area around Stagecoach in the frame from the Movie, I will be able to confirm by triangulation from a satellite topo. Comparison with the photograph I have from US163, which is slightly further South, indicates you are in exactly the correct position.


>Also, the Hollywood Chimney (Bjornstad, Desert Rock, pg 401,
> Chockstone press 1988) is really obvious in the notch that
> leads to Hospital. There is an outstanding thin hands crack
> through a bulge that Wyrick/Bjornstad et al did not do just
>left of the Hollywood Chim.
>

OK I will try and piece all this together.

I had to use pilots' photographs of the approach to Goulding's Airfield UT25 to try and perform some elimination and noticed that the Mesa rising behind looked promising.



The bottom line is there is far more work than I realized. That's good because I hate it when I run out of things to hunt down. I was beginning to think that another visit was necessary (now that I am sure that all the targets are in a 10mile by 10mile square) in order to perform some elimination.


I keep updating the

http://mittleuropa.t35.com/climbs.html

page with whatever new information I find or deduce.

Thanks again,

Kurt
Camster (Rhymes with Hamster)

Social climber
CO
Dec 22, 2009 - 11:48pm PT
KM:

//Any salient facts or anecdotes you care to quote I will include.

Did he mention where all the cast and crew stayed while they were filming in Monument Valley ? Did they all camp out like they did in "Lawrence of Arabia" or where they billeted here in and there at whatever Gasthof had space ?//

I need to go back, fully armed, with my notes and have Eric get his out. He couldn't remember sh*t. But I'll keep the interest in the Eiger Sanction in mind.

//Use force, threats, bribery, flattery, pleading, nagging, anything.

"That which is not written down, might as well never have happened."
//

Yeah, good thinking. I'll do what I can.

Camster
Gaar Lausman

Trad climber
behind you
Dec 24, 2009 - 03:13pm PT
I've spent the past 3 years in Zion, and I can say with about 90% accuracy that the first 2 pictures are from the front of the lodge looking right towards employee canyon. I drew an arrow pointing towards emp. canyon in one pic.


The 3rd picture suggests, with the river below, the no longer existant pool, that it was taken from the Spearhead, or Lady Mtn. which are both directly accross from the lodge; as per the route I have no idea

Gaar
Allen Hill

Social climber
CO.
Dec 24, 2009 - 03:40pm PT
Allen Hill

Social climber
CO.
Dec 24, 2009 - 03:42pm PT
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Dec 28, 2009 - 01:44pm PT
Allen, were you there for that shoot? Cool pic of Eastwood and Dougal.

Nope, you'd have been too young methinks.
KM

Mountain climber
Milan
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 30, 2009 - 07:00am PT

Gaar - Thanks for your help. I have not received any information from any one who knows Zion yet and Zion Lodge have been a bit light in terms of help.


http://mitteleuropa.t35.com/zion_lodge.html

>I've spent the past 3 years in Zion, and I can say with about 90%
> accuracy that the first 2 pictures are from the front of the lodge
> looking right towards employee canyon. I drew an arrow pointing
> towards emp. canyon in one pic.
>
>
>The 3rd picture suggests, with the river below, the no longer
> existant pool, that it was taken from the Spearhead, or Lady
> Mtn. which are both directly accross from the lodge; as per
>the route I have no idea
>
>Gaar


I have done some more work on the Zion Canyon and Zion Lodge locations.

I concur with you: The two/three frames with 'canyon' in the background, taken during the Eastwood/Bodyguard fight scene are non-river side, the East side. I cannot find any photographs of that side (in either the movie) or anywhere else and Zion Lodge are a on the light side with help offered so far.

http://mitteleuropa.t35.com/files/es_eiger_sanction_clint_eastwood_frame_20091204154902.jpg

http://mitteleuropa.t35.com/files/es_eiger_sanction_clint_eastwood_frame_20091209184358.jpg



On the river-side/West the key is that frame were Eastwood is climbing above the Zion Lodge, which come into view the moment Eastwood puts his elbow over the top of the lip of the rock. Without this frame, we would be stuck for an accurate fix on the swimming pool because it was demolished in the Eighties.

http://mitteleuropa.t35.com/files/es_eiger_sanction_clint_eastwood_frame_20091228084219.jpg


I have been through the frames from the movie and all the photographs I have and I have pieced together a montage using frames from the movie of what the Swimming Pool area must have looked like. Then, matched it to a position on a satellite image using that one frame from the movie in which the full lodge appears, when Eastwood and Kennedy are climbing above it.

http://mitteleuropa.t35.com/filmlocations_eiger_sanction.html#swimmingpool

Looking North
[url=" http://mitteleuropa.t35.com/files/es_eiger_sanction_clint_eastwood_frame_20091208183135.jpg"]
http://mitteleuropa.t35.com/files/es_eiger_sanction_clint_eastwood_frame_20091208183135.jpg[/url]


Looking South

http://mitteleuropa.t35.com/files/es_eiger_sanction_clint_eastwood_frame_20091209173507.jpg


Looking West/River side
[url="http://mitteleuropa.t35.com/files/es_eiger_sanction_clint_eastwood_frame_20091209184222.jpg"]http://mitteleuropa.t35.com/files/es_eiger_sanction_clint_eastwood_frame_20091209184222.jpg
[/url]

I am trying to work out where the Ford Thunderbird is parked in the above frame. The tourist trains to left of frame suggest that it is in the north parking lot, where the tourist buses halt now. However, this assumes that there have been no changes since that time. Assumptions are dangerous to use when location hunting. I should be able to work it out from the pattern of vehicles parked in the background.

http://mitteleuropa.t35.com/files/es_eiger_sanction_clint_eastwood_frame_20091208183816.jpg

Do you have any thoughts on this one ? If I can work out what building they are in front of, then I can determine the location.

At the moment, I think the Ford Thunderbird is parked in front of the Lodge, and those vehicles parked in the background are in what was the Swimming Pool parking area.

If doubt creeps in on the Swimming Pool, I will obtain some of NASA's satellite imagery from the early Seventies (it is on 70mm roll film at the Library of Congress) and that should settle any question.

Thank again all.



-Kurt
Gaar Lausman

Trad climber
behind you
Dec 30, 2009 - 04:55pm PT
The links are not working for me...Try and post a hard pic in this forum.
I can probably tell you where they are just need to see it.

Feel free to emial me with any more questions in requards to zion.

mynameisgaar@yahoo.com

Gaar
KM

Mountain climber
Milan
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 14, 2011 - 05:19pm PT

http://www.mitteleuropa.t35.com/filmlocations_eiger_sanction.html#trainingclimb

Dear Sirs

Can you help me: I am trying to identify all the climbs in "The Eiger Sanction". Most are known now but there is a large chimney, probably two large chimneys which I cannot identify. I think one is in Zion Canyon and the second in Monument Valley. If I cannot identify them here then I will have to wait until I am on foot in Zion Canyon and Monument Valley.

There is a table showing each stage of the Training Climb sequence, followed by frames from the movie showing the chimneys I cannot identify.

If you have any idea where those Chimneys might be, then even a good guess as to the area would narrow down my area of search and the amount of walking I have to do.

With thanks,


Kurt

KM

Mountain climber
Milan
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 14, 2011 - 05:22pm PT
Here are the images:















seth kovar

climber
Reno, NV
Mar 14, 2011 - 05:32pm PT
First motion picture to show breast implants?
KM

Mountain climber
Milan
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 20, 2011 - 05:23pm PT
>First motion picture to show breast implants?
>

After much consideration, and many hours of inspecting the images, I have arrived at the opinion that they are real.

In my selfless pursuit of all details relating to the making of "The Eiger Sanction" I will investigate this matter more deeply, if necessary placing boots on the ground, and hands on the, uh, the subject matter under discussion.

If one is prepared to identify the tires on the Bronco then it seems sensible to pursue the same depth of detail with every aspect of the movie, you will agree ?
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