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| Messages 1 - 16 of total 16 in this topic |
Ray Olson
Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
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I really like bob
friendly engaging person
props for his climbing exploits...
but, sadly, I know few details, because
bob's climbing was somewhat "mythic"
wasn't there a way-fast LTWF ascent
in there somewhere?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Not so, some of the snakes....
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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The moccasins, the motorcycle, the ever present effervescent smile.
'Dude was an enigma, a one-of-a-kind, a bon vivant!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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bob hailed from san diego, and we claim his as our own. f.a. of time machine, right? that's what i recall. super nice guy, came and went like a ghost, mysteriously appearing and just as mysteriously disappearing. best bob story i ever heard involved some acid-influenced skinny dipping at the devil's bathtubs.
just another great bob in a long series of outstanding bobs. whatever happened to him??
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Cool, Drew. Google books is blocking me, so here is the reference on the AAJ site (p.4-5):
http://www.americanalpineclub.org/documents/pdf/aaj/2001/195_alaska_aaj2001.pdf
and the text:
Mt. McKinley, Reality Ridge, First Solo Ascent. I departed on May 6 for the West Fork of the
Ruth Glacier (7,000’), one-half mile from the base (7,200’) of the Reality Ridge, with 204
pounds of equipment. I encountered 5.4-5.5 mixed climbing to 10,200 feet, which I fixed using
my three 200-foot ropes, thus requiring three hauls (four trips up, three down). I climbed five
percent of this unroped. The ridge from 10,200 to 12,600 feet was extensively corniced
(including double cornices in two areas), had deep snow, and was like a knifeblade in two
areas. There were also two sections of aid: one was about 25 feet long and slightly overhanging
(Al), and both were followed by mixed climbing with minimal pro. In the crux area, I
encountered a 50-degree granite slab with no edges and a 15-foot runout above an icy
knifeblade, with 80-degree walls on both sides (very bad fall potential, very committing).
There were also numerous short, steep sections with rotten or soft snow top-outs. Lots of traversing
was encountered; extra snow protection is advised for these areas. Ice was encountered
two feet below soft powder 25 percent of the time. I recommend the following gear: six deadmen,
three long pickets, two short pickets, a double set of 1- to 2 l/2-inch Friends, a single set
of 3- to 4-inch Friends, one l/2 size Alien, ten stoppers, one 2-inch hex, and six ice screws.
I reached the top of Reality Ridge (13,100’) after three weeks. After joining the Southeast
Spur on May 28, I fixed two pitches, then climbed unroped to the base of the wall below the
South Buttress, from which point I fixed 20 to 30 pitches to the top. This was the last time I
fixed. From the South Buttress, I headed to Thayer Basin, then ascended and traversed Thayer
Ridge. I then encountered some fourth class descending to Point 17,200’, and descended to
Harper Glacier. I continued to Denali Pass, encountering one snow bridge and strong winds
on June 10. I gained the summit on June 15 and descended the regular route to Kahiltna Base.
On June 18, I was flown off to Talkeetna with minor frostbite to a thumb tip and small toe.
I chose Reality Ridge because it was a very short distance to the start of the climb and
because I’d never done an expedition and had always dreamed of one.
ROBERT SHONERD
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Bob Shonerd was baddass! He did solo Leaning Tower like in a day I think...Someone told me ropeless...That he was just back-clipping between a couple of shite bolts at a time...Didn't he do Time Machine? I remember in Josh when he kept Rattlers in his tent to deter the rodent and thief vermin! He'd wrangle them in every night before bed and only one time in the years that I knew him got bitten...
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WBraun
climber
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Someone told me ropeless
He had a 40 foot piece of rope as I recall.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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I met Bob Shonerd in Josh a few times, went climbing with him for a day once.
He was a very solid crack climber. Cruised Hercules without breaking a sweat.
Then he was gone. Never saw him again.
Thanks for the Denali news. That is just wild!
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
climber
. . . not !
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"Someone told me ropeless"
"He had a 40 foot piece of rope as I recall."
40 feet of rope is ropeless .
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Find him! Someone knows him! Get him here on McTopo!
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Cool Werner, that's right he had that piece of rope...
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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I first met "Mud Flats Bob", back in 1982. I knew him through my friends Will Oxx & Mike
Guardino - aka- The Gargoyle.
We agreed to do Reeds Direct, got racked up & we took his motorpsycho, whoops!- I meant motorcycle, that he rode out from West Virginia to Yosemite.
We head out from Camp 4 with me on the back & our packs were in some panier like
rigs, on the rear-side of the bike.
Next thing I know wer're going 70 mph & weaving thru cars & 'bago's & bus's & such. We come up to some S-turns that have water running across the road for about 40'.
I yell to Bob to slow down before he kills us. He either pretends not to hear me or just ignores me. We are overtaking
a big bus full of tourons right at this moment as we hit the hardest turn & I'm sure we're goin' under its wheels.
Somehow we made it thru & I can honestly say I don't remember much of the rest of the day.
I later heard about his ascents of Tis-sa-ack in stormy weather with Will Oxx & a 1 day solo of WFLT with
a 50' rope he used a couple of times. Most of the time he was just going piece to piece using just 2 dasies!
Pretty bad-ass & kind of ahead of it's time.
Some might think, that's not so bad. Those bolts up there are bomber!!
But that was not always the case. Those bolts up there used to be junk, I think they were something
weird like 5/32"? Does anybody know what Harding originally used?
He was quite a character to say the least.
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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That's a crack up Bill! His MotorPsycho!!
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Dec 10, 2009 - 12:34am PT
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Damn, good stories!
I heard He really dug the rattlers, had gotten bit so many times he became immune.
Oh and he kept a pet rattler in a rucksack?
Aid bobbin up the West face with those old 3/16 inch bolts....Massive Huevos.
Mucci
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Dec 10, 2009 - 12:57pm PT
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So has Time Machine ever been repeated?
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