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Eddie
Trad climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 29, 2005 - 01:22pm PT
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What to the masses think?
How would you react if you saw someone doing it?
What would you say about them on this forum?
this should be interesting...
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WBraun
climber
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Sep 29, 2005 - 01:24pm PT
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Stupid question
People have been top roping it for years even Kauk, nobody gives a sh-it.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Sep 29, 2005 - 01:24pm PT
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I wouldn't really care.
I bet someone would though. ML really is center stage.
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Bilbo
Trad climber
Truckee
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Sep 29, 2005 - 01:27pm PT
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You might have a problem with too many people wanting to give it a go.
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Eddie
Trad climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 29, 2005 - 01:35pm PT
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thanks werner.
The impressions I've got from climbers (in person)so far have been:
--If you don't climb v9--don't go near it. You'll wear down the rock for the real climbers.
--Top rope it! are you crazy..someone would cut your rope!
I'm glad to see it is an accepted style.
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landcruiserbob
Trad climber
the ville, colorado
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Sep 29, 2005 - 01:41pm PT
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Eddie, I wouldn't worry about it much. If some 118 lbs punk f's with you just kick their ass.rg
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handsome B
Gym climber
Saskatoon, Saskatchawan
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Sep 29, 2005 - 01:48pm PT
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I thought it was established WITHOUT toproping and that is why people were calling weak sauce on Lynn Hill when she toprope-rehersed it. But I am most likely wrong. Time to consult Stone Crusade by John Sherman.
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Shack
Big Wall climber
So. Cal.
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Sep 29, 2005 - 01:58pm PT
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You'll never send it so what does it matter?...JK ;)
Once I had Kauk and Moffet literally talk me through every move..
well the first 3 moves cuz then I'd pop off every time.
Son of a #@%&$*#@!!!
If anyone gives you crap about toproping it, just tell them
your setting it up for Werner and just thought you'd give it a go before he arrives.
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WBraun
climber
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Sep 29, 2005 - 02:07pm PT
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My response would be then don’t top rope it if you are worried about what some dumb ass thinks is right.
Somebody top ropes it and does/doesn’t do it = nice
Somebody does/doesn’t without the rope = nice
Me, I don’t give sh-it how anybody does it, use a fire ladder if you have to.
Have fun arguing …….. ha ha ha
I'd rather watch the ski jump in San Francisco
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Straight Outta Squamton
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Sep 29, 2005 - 02:11pm PT
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"--If you don't climb v9--don't go near it. You'll wear down the rock for the real climbers."
That's the funniest fuçking thing I've read in a long time!
LOL!!
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handsome B
Gym climber
Saskatoon, Saskatchawan
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Sep 29, 2005 - 02:15pm PT
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Skin v.s. Granite
The Never-Ending Struggle
Who will be here 4,000 years from now?
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Sep 29, 2005 - 02:29pm PT
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does anybody know what's the story on the bolt hole near the start of ML?
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Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
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Sep 29, 2005 - 02:29pm PT
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in defense of that comment, i assume the OP was refering to the "wearing down" by foot traffic. if you doubt the effects of hundreds of dirty shoes dragging up granite footholds, stop by LCC next time you're in salt lake. i'll show you some nice problems that have "no ill effects from hundreds of ascents"
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fear
Ice climber
hartford, ct
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Sep 29, 2005 - 03:05pm PT
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I have to admit on a recent trip I did pose on the first move for a photo shoot with my 5.10 sneakers on. That poor foothold will never be the same I guess now...
The rest looked easy though.. All big buckets...
-Fear
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Sep 29, 2005 - 03:21pm PT
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Are you doing it because you want the world to know or are you doing it because you want to do it?
Who cares what the world thinks as long as you aren't altering the route, or going on tour afterwords and spraying about your accomplishments.... now if you propose to chip holds to make it easier, you're life won't be worth a tinker's damn.
You shouldn't be confused, as Dingus pointed out, top roping ain't bouldering...
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handsome B
Gym climber
Saskatoon, Saskatchawan
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Sep 29, 2005 - 03:26pm PT
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Just because I don't want to put on my climbing shoes doesn't mean I shouldn't be allowed to do Copperhead. But next time I hike the Lightning I will brush off my tenies so that some other people can have a chance at it.
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Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
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Sep 29, 2005 - 03:30pm PT
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why would you use your feet on copperhead?
oh, and fear, it wasn't your feet, it was the 10 behind you in line waiting to take their "me on midnight" pictures
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Eddie
Trad climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 29, 2005 - 03:31pm PT
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Thanks guys. I'm not confused, and I wasn't asking if I should top rope it. I just wanted some true feelings from climbers about what they thought about it. I know people out there have a problem with it, and I know people out there would love to try it on top rope if they could.
I thought it would be interesting to hear another battle on style, attitude, elitism, and plain old arrogance--and I thought there were some particularly interesting elements in this particular battle (visibility, safety, tradition, 'does it count', crowds, etc).
Anyone know the answers to some of the questions people have been posting about who did what how, and when?
And yes, multiple attempts most certainly does affect the climb. So should we save ML for the chosen ones?
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Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
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Sep 29, 2005 - 03:34pm PT
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i'm still trying to figure out what makes a climb "worthy" of the chosen ones.
my guess is you'd get a #4 camalot up the @ss for hauling on the east face of washingtons column, but you better bring a gun if you wanna do moonlight w/ out getting stuck under a haulbag.
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WBraun
climber
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Sep 29, 2005 - 03:37pm PT
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Yes, save it for the gods, they used to come here before the age of Kali.
But you’ll have to wait about 427,000 more years before they’ll show again.
Meanwhile back at the boulder …….
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A Dzzl
Trad climber
Praha, Czech Republic
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Sep 29, 2005 - 03:48pm PT
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I think that they didn't have proper pads when those guys climbed it. Now that they are plentiful, and you will have no problem finding pads donated to the stack in the middle of camp 4, the question is why would you?
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WBraun
climber
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Sep 29, 2005 - 03:59pm PT
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Once Steve Schneider fell off it and broke his arm/wrist? can't remember which, but I see him walking up in the parking lot holding his injured arm.
I think another person fell off it and missed the mattress and broke his ankle.
A few have fallen off onto their backs and had the sh-it/wind knocked out of them.
Ha, funny things have happened since that day Yabo "found" Midnight Lightning on cid.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Sep 29, 2005 - 05:25pm PT
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does anybody know what's the story on the bolt hole near the start of ML?
Werner?
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Sep 29, 2005 - 06:39pm PT
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What's amazing, when you think about it, is that folks are pasionatel arguing whether or not it's "right" to use a nylon rope on a 30 foot high boulder set in a nook of a National Park.
A few miles away tower 3,000 foot high rock monoliths . . .
JL
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Fingerlocks
Trad climber
where the climbin's good
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Sep 29, 2005 - 07:03pm PT
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You are supposed to say that there's nothing to climb in the Valley but the small rocks. You know, crowd control?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Sep 29, 2005 - 08:31pm PT
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Eddie, I think the point is that what you climb and how you climb it is up to you... as long as you don't do anything to alter an established climb...
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WBraun
climber
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Sep 29, 2005 - 08:36pm PT
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Lambone
The bolt hole? I drilled it with the hilti when Minerals wasn't looking. Yabo told me to do it in a dream. Link saw me and I ran like the wind.
As you know no one can capture the wind.
Whoooosh, and I was gone ......
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Burns
Trad climber
Arlington, VA
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Sep 29, 2005 - 10:15pm PT
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I think this all harkens back to the question of style. As far as I can tell, here are the two Rules with a capital R of style:
1) Thou shalt not alter the climb in any way*
2) Be honest about what you did.
*without the express written consent of Major League Baseball...er... the FA party. And really that just means bolts. Any other alterations are a no no.
After that, less is more: "Perfection is acheived, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away" - Antoine de Saint-Exupery (thanks Baba)
If you "headpoint" ML, then say it. If you toprope it and never boulder it, tell people you toproped it. People will most likely mock you when the see you doing it, with or without your knowledge, but who really cares? Do you climb to gain the approval of some dude in camp 4, or because its fun?
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Don't let go
Trad climber
Yorba Linda, CA
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Sep 29, 2005 - 11:43pm PT
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I would like to just get half way up midnight lightning. I've walking up to it and touched the first holds and felt bad for "greasing it up for the 'real' climbers." Now I don't feel so bad. If anyone wants to try to teach a V2 climber the first few moves (I hear they are not half as bad as the rest) this weekend I'd love it. That is as long as I'm not destroying the most beautiful pebble in the valley.
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Watusi
Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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Sep 30, 2005 - 12:26am PT
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I'm kinda old now and after years of falling ass over tea kettle off of boulder problems (with injuries)I wish that it would've been OK to TR some of them in my day...You just go and have fun! If anyone says anything, Screw 'em!!
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landcruiserbob
Trad climber
the ville, colorado
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Sep 30, 2005 - 10:58am PT
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Anything beats climbing down that tree.rg
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Don't let go
Trad climber
Yorba Linda, CA
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Sep 30, 2005 - 12:14pm PT
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Oooo! Oooooo! Ooooo! Can I be in your movie BettyBlowtorch? Please?! Huh?! Can I? Can I? Please!
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Mr_T
Trad climber
Somewhere, CA
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Sep 30, 2005 - 05:10pm PT
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What about dry-tooling Midnight Lightning? If we don't use a TR is that ok?
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fear
Ice climber
hartford, ct
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Sep 30, 2005 - 07:47pm PT
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As long as you're wearing monopoints too it should be fine.
-Fear
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AKutzer
Trad climber
From Texas to Tahoe
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Style only matters when you are considering your own. As others have said above, just be honest about it, and (here's the hard part) truly do not care what others think about it.
If it was me, I would rather, personally, not TR it.
I couldn't care less how someone else does it, provided they don't mess up the climb permanently - no chipping, bolts, scars from dry tooling, etc...)
I think it may have been Croft who was quoted in one of the climbing rags as saying, "The first time you ever compare yourself to another climber, a terrible joke has been played on you..."
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bulgingpuke
Trad climber
cayucos california
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I think we should aid it, slap some heads in here and there, the bolt hold takes a yellow alien. then just hook to the top.
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Eddie
Trad climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 1, 2005 - 04:12pm PT
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Burns said:
"
If you toprope it and never boulder it, tell people you toproped it. People will most likely mock you when they see you doing it, with or without your knowledge, but who really cares? Do you climb to gain the approval of some dude in camp 4, or because its fun?
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I climb because it is fun. I don't really care (everyone does to some extent) what people think of me, but that's not my point. What is really intersting is that you think they will mock the person TR'ing it. I agree that they will. What I want to know is WHY they would mock someone. Why would they do it to their face? And why would they do it behind their back?
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Eddie
Trad climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 1, 2005 - 04:18pm PT
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And just for fun:
How many of you out there (who haven't already climbed it) would WANT to try ML on TR?
Think for a minute...
Okay, how many of you would actually TAKE the opportunity if it was there?
Think again...
Is it harder to say yes?
If it is--why?
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| Messages 1 - 38 of total 38 in this topic |
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