Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 28 of total 28 in this topic |
phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 28, 2009 - 02:46pm PT
|
I'm overdue to get the sewn sling replaced on a bunch of my old cams (WC Friends and Metolius TCUs). The last time I did it, I was able to send them all off to Wild Country USA in North Conway, but that option no longer seems available.
Is there a reputable service that people trust, who specifically have experience with climbing gear?
Thanks, Phyl
|
|
SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
|
|
|
Nov 28, 2009 - 03:36pm PT
|
Or you can just tie knots in slings. . .
But Fish'll do you right!
|
|
NA_Kid
Big Wall climber
The Bear State
|
|
|
Nov 28, 2009 - 03:56pm PT
|
Yates gear and Mtntools.com do them as well.
|
|
Reeotch
Trad climber
Kayenta, AZ
|
|
|
Nov 28, 2009 - 04:57pm PT
|
Misty Mountain did ours for us, color coded, too.
|
|
slabbo
Trad climber
fort garland, colo
|
|
|
Nov 28, 2009 - 05:11pm PT
|
Some places will not re-sling if a cam is more than 10 years old-what crap ! But i would check before sending them off. Fish for sure or Ragged Equipment in NH.
|
|
Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
|
|
|
Nov 28, 2009 - 05:44pm PT
|
Check the various manufacturers' websites, as to what they recommend. Sometimes you can send cams directly to the manufacturer, and they'll not only replace the sling, possibly with original colour webbing, they'll check the cam, and for an additional fee, can recondition it - if feasible.
|
|
phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2009 - 06:23pm PT
|
Thank you all for the excellent and fast responses!
|
|
Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
|
|
|
Nov 28, 2009 - 06:25pm PT
|
Wouldn't the company who made the cam replace the slings for you? I believe Metolius does this for their cams.
|
|
ninjah
Big Wall climber
a van down by the river
|
|
|
Nov 28, 2009 - 07:45pm PT
|
learn how to tie a water not and sling em yourself
|
|
The Wedge
Boulder climber
Bishop, CA
|
|
|
Nov 28, 2009 - 07:50pm PT
|
Had mine re-done by Yates..you can go nylon or spectra, different lengths too. Quick turn around time.
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
|
Nov 28, 2009 - 09:05pm PT
|
ninjah -- "learn how to tie a water not and sling em yourself"
Yeah, I agree, so simple
|
|
Brian Hench
Trad climber
Anaheim, CA
|
|
http://www.yatesgear.com/climbing/slings/index.htm#9
IMPORTANT NOTE:
We no longer have 12mm Dyneema available.
We will no longer be able to resling cams older than 10 years. Yates Gear reserves the right to decline reslinging of any cams we feel are unsafe because of there condition of use. (ie. Please do not send us cams that are used up and thrashed!) It will be up to the customer to determine the age and condition of their cams before sending them in to us.
We apologize for any inconvenience this may cause.
We can not do Tricams.
We will not re-sling bare cabled cams.
Please send cams in clean.
Please remove the old slings from your cams before
sending them in.
|
|
Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Top of the 5.2-5.10 Boulder
|
|
Hell, send 'em to me. I'll sling 'em for ya.
I can tie a water knot with the best of 'em.
|
|
alpinerockfiend
Trad climber
greater Yosemite
|
|
On a side note, does anyone NOT resling their cams? I've been debating doing it for a while with some from my first set (~7 years old now), but all the slings seem fine other than their normal wear and tear and slight fuzzing. I whipped on them all a bunch this fall. What do you guys think?
|
|
Forest
Trad climber
Denver, CO
|
|
I had yates do mine. They were quick and pretty cheap. Very happy all the way around. at the time, none of my cams were > 10 years old.,
|
|
woof!
Trad climber
texas
|
|
i have some friends that are more than 10 years old and a rigid stem from the late 70's that thats been reslung once with a piece of webbing and a water knot. you're fine amigo
but don't take my advice...i know i sure as hell don't
|
|
WallMan
Trad climber
Denver, CO
|
|
Waterknots - are you guys serious?
Properly reslung cams are safer, lighter, and have less bulk - certainly the way to go if you can afford it.
Climb ohn.
Wally
|
|
phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 9, 2009 - 02:06pm PT
|
Rokjox-
Thank you for your generous consideration for my health and safety! I did not send my cams to Fish, only because Mtn Tools and Carmel are right in my backyard. And because Larry put a photo of me in one of his catalogs once a long time ago which at the time gave me a little thrill. I did buy Russ a beer tho', thru the handy paypal service on his site, and it warmed my heart to do so (tho I would have preferred to buy him a glass of a nice coastal Pinot - I guess that will have to wait for some future occasion).
The simple, cord-slung, water-knot tied hexes will remain in the unused gear box. Simple has its place and sometimes that place is in the garage. As it is, my partners are frightened by the 25 year old rigid stem friends on my rack - now featuring spankin' new sewn runners!
Phyl
|
|
The Skin
Trad climber
Long beach, ca
|
|
|
Jul 13, 2015 - 06:42pm PT
|
So fish does NOT replace slings anymore, they told me to "try Yates".
|
|
Spiny Norman
Social climber
Boring, Oregon
|
|
|
Jul 13, 2015 - 06:53pm PT
|
Misty Mtn
Mtn Tools
Wired Bliss
Yates
And Metolius and BD, at least, will do it on their own cams. Prob. Wild Country and others as well.
|
|
johntp
Trad climber
socal
|
|
|
Jul 15, 2015 - 06:50am PT
|
I've had good results from wired bliss if they are still around.
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Jul 15, 2015 - 08:33am PT
|
Waterknots - are you guys serious?
Properly reslung cams are safer, lighter, and have less bulk - certainly the way to go if you can afford it.
as far as I know, there are no accidents that had a failed tied sling as the "root cause" of the accident. There was a time where everything was tied, then someone had the idea of swaging cable... sewn runners came later (maybe the collective STForum memory remembers when).
It is probably true that sewn slings have less bulk, and that they may be lighter.
But there is nothing "wrong" or "unsafe" about tying slings.
|
|
Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
|
|
|
Jul 15, 2015 - 10:59am PT
|
as far as I know, there are no accidents that had a failed tied sling as the "root cause" of the accident. There was a time where everything was tied, then someone had the idea of swaging cable... sewn runners came later (maybe the collective STForum memory remembers when).
I dimly recall there has been a few. ANAM mentioned a couple and I recall one where a knotted sling around a tree failed (probably due to being improperly tied though).
|
|
JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
|
|
|
Jul 15, 2015 - 11:41am PT
|
Brian, I remember an incident reported in ANAM about 45 years ago of a rappelling accident (where, surprisingly, there was no fatality) caused by an improperly tied fisherman's bend. I, too, remember hearing about a tied sling failure or two, but, again, the most likely explanation was an improperly tied knot, rather than the failure of a properly tied one.
John
|
|
Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
|
|
|
Jul 15, 2015 - 11:55am PT
|
Here's a more recent one (copied below), and, I recall one I think in Zion in a canyoneering accident in the last couple of years.
Some interesting info on water knots:
http://user.xmission.com/~tmoyer/testing/Water_Knot_Testing.pdf
//From 1998 ANAM:
FALL ON ROCK, EQUALIZED SLING FAILURE
Oregon, Smith Rock State Park
On June 7, a climber was being lowered by his partner after climbing the route, Easy
Reader (5.6) at the Dihedrals in Smith Rock State Park.
After descending about 15 feet, the anchor sling failed sending the climber free falling
approximately 60 feet. He landed on his feet, hip, arm and body in that order, and
suffered numerous fractures.
Other climbers in his group provided immediate care until E M T 's from the Redmond
Fire Department arrived. About 45 minutes after the accident, he was evacuated by
helicopter to a Bend, Oregon hospital.
Analysis
After the evacuation, two climbers climbed an adjacent route to inspect the anchor system.
A locked carabiner remained in each hanger, and a locked and regular carabiner
were on the rope. From this it was concluded that the single, equalized sling failed for
some reason. The lead climber had set up the anchor system and then rappelled down to
belay the climber. For climbers that had considered an equalizing sling bombproof, the
accident came as a shock.
Cause of the failure has not been determined. Two climbers independently inspected
the remaining slings in the leader's pack and found all solid water knots. The sling had
carried the rappel load, but then failed with approximately 80% more weight. Tensile
tests were carried out on slings with knots that were intentionally not dressed (twisted or
folded), but these performed surprisingly near to perfectly tied knots.
One possibility was that the knot did not take a set, and slipped through to the melted
end on rappel, and continued slipping on the victim. Regardless of reason for failure, it
is strongly recommended that setting a single sling, equalized or not, should only be
done after careful deliberation as to the risk. It is recommended that any anchor system
with bolts or gear be set with two independent, bombproof anchors, or at least three
good independent anchors by traditional gear placement. Bombproof means two modem
solid anchor bolts with hangers, solid horns or trees.
Independent slings or quickdraws should be clipped to each anchor point to provide
sufficient back-up for an individual sling or anchor point failure. If one judges the need
for an equalized sling, it should be backed up with the rope or slings slightly longer to
allow equalized movement) to each anchor point. (Source: Michael Dianich)
//
|
|
JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
|
|
|
Jul 15, 2015 - 12:13pm PT
|
Good information, Brian. The link, in particular, was interesting, as I've found my own tied ring bends to slip over time, so I always inspect before leaving the ground.
John
|
|
| Messages 1 - 28 of total 28 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!