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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 19, 2009 - 08:18pm PT
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One of the quiet, humble geniuses of rock climbing lives in
a lovely corner of Utah called Alpine, and his name is
Kim Miller. Back in the 1970's Kim, as a young lad, became
one of the best in Utah. Of course at the time Greg Lowe
stole the show, as far as Utah master free climbers go, and
of course Jeff Lowe was the brilliant mountaineer through the
later years, but Kim was right there in terms of ability. He
would come and visit me in Colorado and sight lead such things
as Northwest Corner of the Bastille and Vertigo, and I could
count on Kim to get me back in shape. I had to almost instantly,
otherwise I wouldn't be able to follow the guy. I have always
gone to his state and climbed with him, and I've always felt
a little guilty when I would get some sort of recognition, but
secretly I knew there were climbers better than I was, such as
Kim. He reminds me a lot of Gill, in the sense that he is not
only a fine climber but a very fine and generous person. My hat
off to my good Kim.
Pat Ament
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Nov 19, 2009 - 08:21pm PT
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I don't know the guy but apparently he thinks he knows me.
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hooblie
climber
sounding out stuff , in the manner of crickets
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Nov 19, 2009 - 09:35pm PT
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it's knowing about folks, as you describe, that inspires a more egalitarian approach and i'm all for it. the cult of celebrity is it's own thing, not quite apart from merit, but the sport is better off for the numerous souls who whose talent lies like hidden treasure and rubs off on a close circle. how many top farmers, or great parents are there that never got swept up in the star making machinery?
i find that inspiring pat, to know that the bench is deep and that working hard beneath the radar is not a lesser act of devotion.
that's answer enough for me to the riddle "if a tree falls in the forest... "
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Nov 19, 2009 - 09:42pm PT
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Kim is a solid guy. Not only a great climber, but a wonderful human being. (And funny as well!) We really enjoyed spending time with him in Mexico and look forward to more time together in the future!
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Karla
climber
Colorado
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Nov 19, 2009 - 10:09pm PT
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On a climbing trip to Elephants Perch via COR's, our motley crew of Donini, Jay Smith, Roger Schimmel, Thom Engelbach (Mission) & Malcolm Daly were welcomed into his home to spend the evening(Kim & Jim have been friends for many years). Not only did he offer up his home for the night for all of us, he took us out to dinner...at the steak restuarant not too far from there.
After the Perch, Thom and I came back through COR's and ran into Kim again. He suggested a few routes, which were fun, albeit SPICY! Kim just floated route after route after route.
Great guy, unassuming climber with a wonderful family. Kim, we'll see you soon! Thanks so much for your kindess!
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Nov 19, 2009 - 10:12pm PT
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Kim Miller is awesome....he loves climbing and shares with others .....that is a true measure of an awesome person in my book......Bravo to Kim Miller....
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tenesmus
Trad climber
slc
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Nov 19, 2009 - 11:45pm PT
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I don't know the guy but apparently he thinks he knows me. You sir, are a narcissistic pig.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Nov 19, 2009 - 11:49pm PT
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Well, don't know how to use the quote deal yet, but Pat is talking about RKM, right?
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Nov 20, 2009 - 12:20am PT
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tenesmus???
That is right, isn't it?
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More Air
Trad climber
S.L.C.
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Nov 20, 2009 - 12:39am PT
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Kim, on Ancient Gallery in Zion.
Kim leading on Swiss American, Zion
Sorting gear...and the long drive home.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Nov 20, 2009 - 12:56am PT
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tenesmus?
tenesmus????
Oh yeah, you're great outta the gate, but you drag on the first turn.
Who's petty?
Who's RKM?
Or is it More Hot Air to the rescue?
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Nov 20, 2009 - 12:56am PT
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Thanks Pat, for highlighting the lesser known climbers.
I've always wondered why there wasn't an "Under The Radar" climber magazine. I mean, it's the quality of these people as human beings and their talents as partners that makes them more valuable than the pure number they can climb.
Anyway, there's more under the radar climbers than there are superstars anyway, why can't we have our own rag?
Here it is, right here on Supertopo.......
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Nov 20, 2009 - 01:35am PT
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Oops.
Looks like tenesmus is the Balloon Boy of the Taco.
there he goes,.......
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Nov 20, 2009 - 02:20am PT
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hey there say, appreciations to kim miller... :)
thanks for sharing with everyone about more wonderful climbers...
say, it takes many jewels to make the crown-witness of this host-of-climbers in the world... it SURE is nice to know the names of the various jewels/gems/precious stones that EACH one is....
the vast whole would be much-lacking if all were seen in their
special shine, joined in... :)
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 20, 2009 - 10:28am PT
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Kim was about the first person I know of who repeated
Greg Lowe's difficult routes, really scary runout testpieces
I mean, at City of Rocks. Definitely one of the really
fine climbers of his day, but mostly too humble and wasn't
so well known by the mainstream climbing world.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Nov 20, 2009 - 12:33pm PT
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Is there such a thing as too humble?
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 20, 2009 - 07:03pm PT
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"too" in the sense of "very"
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Nov 20, 2009 - 08:57pm PT
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I get it.
Anybody have any pictures of Kim?
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Nov 20, 2009 - 09:04pm PT
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I've a few photos. But we are out of town so I don't have them with me. Kim's a doll. :)
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 21, 2009 - 01:17am PT
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Mine are black and white or old color prints,
so I'd have to scan them... Imagine Richard Gere,
they look surprisingly alike in certain ways, although
Kim is a far better climber and not nearly the
ladies man.
Utah has produced some of the best climbers of all
time, you know, the Lowe clan, and Kim Miller...
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More Air
Trad climber
S.L.C.
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Nov 21, 2009 - 12:10pm PT
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In 1977 Kim completed a route in Little Cottonwood Canyon called Intensive Care. It was and still is one of the boldest climbs in the Wasatch. Jim Knight first started the route, a beautiful 2 pitch runnout granite slab climb. Soon afterwards he recruited Kim. The steep, flakey slab had few chickenheads to stand on to drill bolts, hence there were long runnouts. On the 2nd pitch, their friend Mark Ward was badly injured in a fall when he flipped over backwards and hit the back of his head. After an impressive rescue, Mark made it to the emergency room where he was put into intensive care.
After this, a dark cloud hung over the route. The prospects of climbing long 5.11 runnouts was daunting. Kim went up and finished the lead which ended near the top of the slab. He was wearing EB's at the time. To this day, even with all of the new sticky rubber shoes, no one has finished to the top. Everyone traverses off right, which is still scary.
Kim loved ice climbing as well. One day we were climbing some new farmed ice at Upper Bridal Veil Falls in Provo canyon. On the second pitch, a vertical, hollow pillar led to a thin smear, which led to the top. Although there was an easier alternative to the left, Kim chose the thin smear..."It looks cool". With a questionable screw in, he calmly climbed the 25' smear. Following, I noticed that the ice was thinner than it looked from below -- about an inch thick on average, and the moves were difficult.
I've been fortunate to climb a lot with Kim. Bold leads are typical. In Zion, Kim's fast aid climbing has allowed us to fix & fire all of the walls we've done. This suits Kim well as he doesn't like to bivy...the hotel in Springdale is much more comfortable! With all of the climbing he has done, he has still made time for a successful career and family life. One of Kim's joys is his son Joe, a down syndrome boy. Kim has a great family. He's funny and to the point. He has always gone out of his way to help others and be generous.
It's been a pleasure.
Brian Smoot
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Nov 22, 2009 - 07:24pm PT
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Kim loved ice climbing as well. One day we were climbing some new farmed ice at Upper Bridal Veil Falls in Provo canyon. On the second pitch, a vertical, hollow pillar led to a thin smear, which led to the top. Although there was an easier alternative to the left, Kim chose the thin smear..."It looks cool". With a questionable screw in, he calmly climbed the 25' smear. Following, I noticed that the ice was thinner than it looked from below -- about an inch thick on average, and the moves were difficult.
Probably not past tense just yet?
That was a crazy day. You and I got an early start and left a full length rope down to the base of the route, as Kim had "duties" that morning. Sure enough, he steamed up the trail, caught us, we belayed him up, and he sent that last pitch (which was frankly frightening). Then, on the way down, the kids next to us knocked a briefcase sized block of ice loose and I watched it clobber Kim square in the face. Really think it would have snuffed a lessor person. He was fairly calm about it and those guys sure felt bad. Looked like someone had shot a deer there was so much blood in the snow. Off to the ER with nary a complaint. Actually, as I recall, he was fairly cheerful... I can't find my photo I had scanned from that day, but, Kim is smilin' through all that blood...(couldn't he breath without his mouth or nose?). Yikes.
Couple of shots from up at the Castle in Idaho:
Not so typical is that he has a rope on...(!) Maybe typical is that he's clipped to the only bolt on the long route and didn't bother with any other gear...
Topping out some route. As you can see, he can follow me with his eyes closed! I rapped off, Kim downclimbed...
Been my pleasure to get to know and share a rope with RKM.
Let's get out again soon!
-Brian in SLC
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 22, 2009 - 10:47pm PT
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Kim has quietly gone about his buisness for years,
when other climbers have risen to the spotlight he has
been the fundamental equal to the best, maybe not the
strongest boulderer, maybe not the master of some or
other thing, but nearly in many cases, and the kind of
spirit you want to be with on rock. He was all one needed
to be, while at the same time he has managed a successful career
and family.
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| Messages 1 - 23 of total 23 in this topic |
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