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Park Rat
Social climber
CA, UT,CT,FL
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 11, 2009 - 11:41pm PT
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Note: This was my first post concerning Warren Harding.
Looking back at what I wrote, I felt it was time to rewrite my original post. I have added more detail to the original story. I hope it gives you a picture of the man and the time.
For a more complete overview of Warrens career read,
"A Few Notes on the Life Warren Harding". Thanks, Park Rat
THE WARREN HARDING I REMEMBER
I have been reading Super Topo for some time. I have been reluctant to tell my story until now.
I don’t expect any of the old climbers to remember me. I worked in Yosemite for years, but kept a low profile, not easy as a nearly six foot blond female.
I am not a climber, I didn’t understand climbing. I stayed away from Camp4, so why do I read your blog, well I did have one friend who was a climber.
His name was Warren Harding.
I have many sweet memories of him, I got to know him over two years 1970 & 71 and I came away richer for the experience.
I will try to fill in some of the blanks about Warren from a female point of view.
I am getting a head of myself, let's start with my Park back story.
My name is Susie I was a Curry company employee off and on from 1961-1971.
I was twenty seven, just out of grad school and wanted to spend another summer in the park, this is how I came to meet Warren Harding.
I was offered a job serving drinks in the old Mt Room bar in 1970 & then in 1971.
Looking back it was a dream job. We would be the first females allowed to serve drinks in the park, they hired three girls as a trial.
The only catch was to keep the peace at all costs, one fight & our jobs were gone.
I went to work on tip toes, could I a newly minted elementary school teacher, handle a lot of underage employees trying to drink, the Camp4 climbers, plus keep the tourists happy, that would also turn out to include the Hells Angels.
I was way too worried, the job turned out to be a piece of cake. I could wear my own clothes, no uniform, thank you, I got to eat in the coffee shop for free & best of all, had a room alone in the dorm. We also got free drinks at the end of our shift, only we were not big drinkers, we didn’t smoke or use any drugs.
They did a good job picking a clean cut crew. We were not the norm in the park, in the late sixties & seventies it was wide open drug scene, pot smoking was everywhere. It was the era of experimentation with all sorts of drugs, uppers and downer, not to mention LSD. Hippies were camped out everywhere, I remember stepping around them on the patio steps. They were often seen panhandling the tourists and employees.
I first spotted Warren Harding at a table in the bar. He was drawing route maps of his upcoming assault on the south face of Half Dome, on the back of bar napkins. He was surrounded by a group of young climbers.
I asked the bar tenders, who is the scruffy, smelly, old guy?
They in unison answered that he is the great Warren Harding, he climbed El Cap in the fifties I was not impressed. I had heard his name before, but I didn't know him personally.
It might have ended there except Warren had other ideas, he was the one to befriend me, I just reacted to him, like a deer caught in the headlights.
Looking back there were two Warrens the one the young climbers hung on like fleas on a barn cat. He was on stage for them, all laughs, stories, he loved that they liked him.
I was surprised that, in a one on one, he was so very different. He spoke very softly and slowly. He kept his blue eyes locked on you and really listened, he could not have been nicer or more attentive. Not a hint of the tough mountain climber came through as he spoke. This Warren Harding was nothing like the stories I had heard about him, he was far from being wild or crazy. He was in fact someone I would come to greatly admire.
I slowly got brave enough to ask him to tell me some of his stories. He did over two summers tell me a lot of things, not so much about climbing, just bits and pieces of his life.
I could never have guessed in 1970 that I would be one day telling his story. Our conversations were always spontaneous and generally quite innocent. Warren was a born storyteller, he was always engaging. I found myself always glad to spend a few minutes chatting with him even if what he was saying sometimes made no sense to me, it didn't matter. Warren could take any subject and make it sound fascinating.
We both had a long history in the park, we had a deep love for that experience, that was the glue that formed our friendship. I know I was lucky that he picked me to be one of his friends.
Somewhere along the line, I forgot that he was scruffy, and yes smelly, built like an old jockey, I was a head taller, a lot younger, but that didn’t seem to bother Warren.
He would look up at me and say “ In my next life I will be taller.” Chuckle
Warren did not miss a chance to flirt and yes admire every inch of a women. He did so in a non threatening way. Warren was anything but menacing, he was older and by the time I met him he was funny, low key and very easy to talk with.
I didn’t have to be is girlfriend to see what his women liked about him. He made you think he cared, better than that I believe he did care.
The picture of Warren looking up at El Cap with total attention, that is just the way he looked at ladies.
Warren looked at ladies the way some look at art, with complete rapture.
Now to his drinking, yes, he drank a lot, I never saw him dead drunk, never had to cut him off . I now realize that he did have a serious drinking problem, but I did not witness this personally in 1970.
Working in the Mt Room you would think I would have seen him at his worst, with so many of the park employees, & climbers were stoned, and generally wasted. I never considered Warrens behavior as especially bad. You had to have been there to understand how crazy it was back then. I now suspect he saved his heavy drinking for Camp4.
Sometime in the summer of 1970 the park showed a long movie about Warren. I want to say at least forty five minutes. The movie told a lot about Warrens climbing over the years and featured the hairy night rescue of Galen Rowell and Warren off the South face of Half Dome in the Fall of 1968.
Everyone was there to see it, except Warren, I was surprised that he was not there. After seeing the movie I started realized that he was indeed a unique person, I started to understand a little more of his story. It was still hard for me to picture the gentle person I knew as the same legendary tough mountain climber.
One day I decided it was time to do some hiking & camping in the high country. I had hiking boots & a day pack nothing else.
Warren to the rescue, he said “Don’t buy anything” I have all the stuff you will need, I will supply you and a friend with everything, the best back packs, sleeping bags, etc. I protested that he didn’t need to do this for me, Warren cut me off saying he got stuff free, and why should I have to buy things I only needed a few times. I couldn't imagine that a climber was offering me his own sleeping bag and backpack. I couldn't have been more surprised by his generous offer.
This is how Warren Harding, became my personal outfitter.
He also gave detailed instructions about camping. I remember him suggesting hot chocolate as good choice for a drink on a cold morning.
He did everything but carry the pack and set up the camp, this went on for the next two years.
I never did pay him back for his kindness. Warren was not looking for any payback, he just enjoyed helping people when he could.
I am sure Warren was as tough as nails as a climber, rough & ready, comes to mind.
I really never saw a mean or nasty side to Warren. He was kind and always generous to me and my friends, definitely never mean.
One of my favorite memories of Warren occurred while I was at work in the old Mountain room bar.
I am standing innocently by the front door when, Warren comes striding in to the bar. The next thing I know Warren Harding is on his knees, in front of me, his arms are wrapped firmly around my rather long legs. He has me in a huge bear hug. I remember looking down and seeing his face staring up at my breasts, as if they were his favorite mountains. Chuckle
He calls out at the top of his voice “Woman I need a Drink”. I immediately turned every shade of red and yelling “Warren stop that.”
He is not letting go of me, I am trapped. As I wailed Warren stop that, the entire bar breaks out in gales of laughter, maybe the biggest laugh ever in the Mt Room.
He couldn’t have planned it better it he had tried.
I had no choice but to go with it, I started to laugh & plead “please Warren, let go of me & get up off the floor“. After what seemed an age to me, he finally lets go of me, he casually stands up drifts over to the table and acts as if nothing unusual has happened.
All these years later I remember my embarrassment and how much Warren enjoyed that moment. It was a classic Warren Harding stunt.
Did he repeat this act, of course it was too much fun not to be repeated. I never yelled again, I was now completely in on the joke.
I remember him for being outrageously funny, someone who loved the park as I did and as a wonderful if not sometimes nutty friend.
There were many sides to this gruff, tough guy, for me he was generous as well as humorous. I believe he was a person who would given you his last dollar. That is a trait that only someone with a very big heart could have, Warren Harding was such a person.
I hope I haven't ruined his legendary tough, bigger than life guy image.
There really was more to Warrens story than his mountain climbing or the many ladies and his heavy partying.
Warren Harding was a rock star before the term was ever used. He lived his life on his terms and in his own unique way which is why, I believe he will be remembered as long as man talk about mountains and climbing.
Semper Farcissimus,
Susie
The Harding Stare, Mt or ladies all the same.
A Few Notes On The Life OF Warren Harding
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1369330/A-Few-Notes-on-the-Life-of-Warren-Harding
Mt Room, Warren Harding, Story Behind "Downward Bound"
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1011787&msg=1012036#msg1012036
Warren Harding and The Lost Arrow
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1071324/Warren_Harding_and_The_Lost_Arrow
More Warren Stories.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1010478&msg=1011287#msg1011287
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Nov 11, 2009 - 11:57pm PT
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Thank you 'Susie Fisk' - a pleasure to read
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Cracko
Trad climber
Quartz Hill, California
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Nov 12, 2009 - 12:04am PT
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Thank you Suzie. That is an interesting perspective. There are many "characters" in the history of climbing that I would love to sit down and have a conversation with, and Warren Harding is on the top of the list !!
Cracko
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Ray Olson
Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
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Nov 12, 2009 - 12:11am PT
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wonderful story,
thanks for taking the
time to share.
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John Moosie
climber
Beautiful California
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Nov 12, 2009 - 12:15am PT
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Hey, Great story. How about a picture of you back in the day?
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
Will know soon
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Nov 12, 2009 - 12:20am PT
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Super great read ! I envy you your fun and your memories. Glad you finally shared them here. Wow ! lynnie
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Nov 12, 2009 - 12:22am PT
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Thanks for sharing, I appreciate it. Its a good idea to get these thoughts and feelings down on paper - while they are people and events to you, to many of us younger kids this is history, and a very good history. An interesting perspective, one I never had heard. It all adds to building an idea of his character.
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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Nov 12, 2009 - 12:23am PT
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Thank you so much for these wonderful remembrances! I do hope you will write many more.
I knew Warren in the early to mid '60's and I was married then. Also, whenever I saw him he was always with Beryl so I never saw his flirtatious side. It's nice to hear a woman's impressions however, since everything he did was either aggrandized or vilified it seemed, by the men who knew him.
I always felt a lot was projected onto Warren because he was not from the Berkeley intellectual crowd nor pretending to be. Perhaps some of the impressions of him were class based, though this was certainly below the conscious radar of the people judging him. Mainly though, I think he was perceived very differently by women than men. To women he appeared dark and mysterious, to many men it seems, threatening or even menacing.
I too always observed a very intelligent and funny person who was very attentive and respectful of individual people, though merciless on institutions and hypocrisy. In as much as some climbers were also considered institutions, he was merciless in his lampoons of them too, but only after being provoked first I believe. I think you definitely saw the real Warren and the Warren of notoriety was his response to the tons of criticism heaped on him later on.
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Double D
climber
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Nov 12, 2009 - 12:26am PT
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Susie, great story and portrayal of Warren. He was a very funny and intelligent guy the times I got to hang with him.
"the one the young climbers hung on like fleas on a barn cat"
LOL!
Thanks for sharing around the cyber-campfire.
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Fuzzywuzzy
climber
suspendedhappynation
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Nov 12, 2009 - 12:27am PT
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Great stuff - thank you very much!!
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Nov 12, 2009 - 12:49am PT
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Wow, what great stories. Thanks for sharing... and don't be shy, speak up. We'd all love to hear.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Nov 12, 2009 - 01:38am PT
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Thank you very much for that view into a legend's life!
Climbers history has been shed!
Mucci
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Nov 12, 2009 - 03:13am PT
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Thanks for sharing. Under his gruff exterior Warren was a sensitive, fun loving, generous soul.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Nov 12, 2009 - 03:13am PT
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wow cool, this should be in the trip reports section!
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fareastclimber
Big Wall climber
Hong Kong, but live in Wales...
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Nov 12, 2009 - 04:41am PT
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Really well written and insightful, thanks!
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Nov 12, 2009 - 08:30am PT
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That was great. Thanks for taking the time to write and share.
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Blinky
Trad climber
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Nov 12, 2009 - 08:47am PT
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That's one of the best posts I've read on this site. Thank you Susie.
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Norton
Social climber
the Wastelands
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Nov 12, 2009 - 09:20am PT
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WOW!
I loved your story, out of the blue the top post when I logged in!
Oh yes, yes, yes, tell us more stories about you and Warren!
Tell them all, we love it!
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wildone
climber
GHOST TOWN
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Nov 12, 2009 - 09:30am PT
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That was great Suzie. A good read for all of us.
Out of all of those who came before, there are only a couple that I wish I could spend a day out in the high sierra with, on some alpine granite. Warren tops the list.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Nov 12, 2009 - 10:02am PT
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Thanks Susie for the fun and enlightening portrayal of Warren. ST rocks again!
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Redwreck
Social climber
Echo Parque, Los Angeles, CA
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Nov 12, 2009 - 10:08am PT
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So awesome. Thanks Susie!
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Norton
Social climber
the Wastelands
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Nov 12, 2009 - 10:25am PT
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"My once-keen analytical mind has become so dulled by endless hours of baking in the hot sun, thrashing about in tight chimneys, pulling at impossibly heavy loads.... so that now my mental state is comparable to that of a Peruvian Indian, well stoked on coca leaves..." — Warren Harding (1925-2002), Reflections on a broken down climber.
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Ray Olson
Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
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Nov 12, 2009 - 10:34am PT
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Park Rat,
you rock.
warmest regards,
Ray
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FeelioBabar
Trad climber
One drink ahead of my past.
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Nov 12, 2009 - 10:44am PT
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cool post. thanks!
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elcap-pics
climber
Crestline CA
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Nov 12, 2009 - 10:52am PT
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Thanks for the great post... I knew him from 69 on and he was a great inspiration to me and my climbing ambitions... your words were right on ...
regards
Tom
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Nov 12, 2009 - 11:01am PT
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Thank you for the story.
Makes my day.
gk
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Nov 12, 2009 - 11:34am PT
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Hi Susie. Thanks for joining in and welcome to ST as you shed your lurker status. Great story and personal history.
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PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
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Nov 12, 2009 - 11:42am PT
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Great story.
Thanks for the post (and thanks for the drink or two I'm sure you served me!)
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Nov 12, 2009 - 01:42pm PT
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Really fantastic, Susie! Thanks for that.
To me (and I never met Harding--only have stories and books to go by), it mostly feels like the controversies surrounding him were often stoked by people who were sort of insecure, anxious and needed community recognition of their own feats--not trying to be emphatic here...just a hunch. But the "secure" always upset the "anxious." Though it's obvious that he loved to stir the pot, my guess is it would have happened anyway just by "being" Warren Harding.
Hope you share some more stories!!
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matty
Trad climber
los arbor
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Nov 12, 2009 - 02:54pm PT
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WOW, this is the type of special sauce other taco stands can't deliver. Thanks!
Matt
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Ed Bannister
Mountain climber
Riverside, CA
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Nov 12, 2009 - 02:54pm PT
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Susie,
great post, and I do remember you...
Ed
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Park Rat
Social climber
CA, UT,CT,FL
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 12, 2009 - 04:05pm PT
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Hi Ed,
OMG Sorry your name is not ringing a bell! I need pictures, I think I might have a chance to put bring up some memories.
I am shocked at the wonderful response my musings have had, I think Warren might have said, quit while your ahead kid!
My own motto has been, No Guts, No Glory, this tends to get me in all sorts of trouble. LOL
Best,
Park Rat
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Nov 12, 2009 - 06:02pm PT
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Susie, you are the greatest!
How about another story when you get the chance?
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426
climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Nov 12, 2009 - 06:24pm PT
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Very nice. I've had the privelege of having a couple drinks with Harding a little while before he passed. When a slide of the Cap came up, he feigned innocence...
Classic Batso
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Nov 12, 2009 - 06:25pm PT
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Thanks for posting your recollections of Warren Harding. When people become famous (or notorious) they often become mere caricatures and their humanity and personalities get lost.
More stories please.
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habitat
climber
grass pass
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Nov 12, 2009 - 06:26pm PT
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Susie, easy to see why Warren took to you! Very well said, about his being in awe of the women just like the mountains. That Beryl...she was a lucky gal if you ask me! Must have had her pick. Thanks! ! !
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C. Small wall climber.
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Nov 12, 2009 - 07:31pm PT
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Thanks - a poignant tale. A reminder that all of us have less-known sides, and that our supposed public personas may not be complete or correct. Some acquire and even grow into a caricature, but usually there's more than is immediately visible.
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BrianH
Trad climber
santa fe
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Nov 12, 2009 - 10:26pm PT
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Enthusiasm!
That's what comes through to me, at least.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Nov 13, 2009 - 01:40am PT
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Thanks for preserving these unique recollections of Harding for us all
Bump
Karl
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Nov 13, 2009 - 02:41am PT
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Great stuff, Susie! Thanks for sharing your memories of hanging out with Warren, back in the day. It seems clear that Warren appreciated the chance to share his thoughts and have fun with a beautiful and interesting woman, not in the context of being his girlfriend. Sometimes the sexes get put on opposite sides of a fence and we can lose perspective in the process.
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Paul Martzen
Trad climber
Fresno
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Nov 13, 2009 - 03:12am PT
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Wonderful story, Susie. Thank you very much for sharing.
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KitKat
Trad climber
my van, CA or Mexico
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Nov 13, 2009 - 03:53am PT
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I'll toast a glass of red wine to that story! THANK YOU for sharing...
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Norton
Social climber
the Wastelands
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Nov 13, 2009 - 11:24am PT
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More stories Susie, please!
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MH2
climber
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Nov 13, 2009 - 02:01pm PT
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My own motto has been, No Guts, No Glory, this tends to get me in all sorts of trouble.
Climbing is a process of getting oneself into trouble and then getting oneself out. It looks like you have CA, UT, CT, and FL to choose among as hideouts, so I can imagine there has been trouble.
Thanks for finding the guts to post here. I only heard from people that had met Warren and in particular that his eyes were attention-getting as well as attention-giving. He was the great anti-hero.
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scuffy b
climber
Whuttiz that Monstrosicos Inferno?
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Nov 13, 2009 - 04:06pm PT
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Wonderful to read this, Susie. Thanks so much.
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aguacaliente
climber
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Nov 14, 2009 - 02:19am PT
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Okay, first of all this is wonderful, and thank you.
Many things are said about Warren Harding but I have found the stories of him on supertopo to be generous and warm even as they recollect his foibles (and who doesn't have foibles). When I first started reading about climbing history I got this really oversimplified picture associating Harding = sieges = bolts = bad and others = cleaner style = good. The personalities and the reality of course are much more complex, and that potted version of history clearly doesn't do justice to the man. Reading the recollections of those of you who knew him, even well after his glory years, has led me to a more subtle picture of a tremendous character and I want to thank you all for that.
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okie
Trad climber
San Leandro, Ca
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Nov 14, 2009 - 03:28am PT
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Great stuff and nice pics, Park Rat! I can see why Warren was brought to his knees!
Met him once- at the bar of course. My buddy unashamedly asked him if he was The Warren Harding and Warren looked at him with a whimsical smile and said "I used to be."
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Park Rat
Social climber
CA, UT,CT,FL
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 15, 2009 - 04:03pm PT
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Steve,
I have never posted before, will take all the help I can get!
Thanks,
Park Rat
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 15, 2009 - 04:13pm PT
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Great threads become ongoing oral histories that are get picked up and revived continually. Don't get the least bit worried if there is a lull in people posting on a thread and certainly feel free to bump up your own threads with more recollections as they come to you. Lots of people check in to the ST now and then and miss the really good stuff! No substitute for real firsthand stories and historical accounts like yours!
Thanks for joining us around the ST campfire with your tales. I really miss the old Mountain Room Bar and cherish the good old days in the Valley.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Nov 15, 2009 - 05:18pm PT
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Park Rat - A top notch post really - thanks. I look forward to more!
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Blitzo
Social climber
Earth
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Nov 15, 2009 - 05:29pm PT
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I knew him and climbed with him.
Phil made statues of him.
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Park Rat
Social climber
CA, UT,CT,FL
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 15, 2009 - 05:55pm PT
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Steve G.,
OMG when did I get to be History, I am 67yo not 167!
I remember Ansel Adams not John Muir. Ha Ha
I don’t remember making any history, I am only an eye witness. I am sure I was not special back then, I knew that living in the Park was a privilege.
I still dream, I am back working in the old Ahwahnee dining room or was it a nightmare?
I can think of a lot of park related topics this group might enjoy.
I am new at this posting stuff, not sure of the proper etiquette?
Feel free to bring me up to speed.
I didn't' know there were rules about how to climb a rock?
I just thought you shouldn't’t fall off, what do I know?
I am amazed at what I am learning on this site.
Blitzo,
That is a later & scarier W. H. than I remember, thank God. LOL
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 15, 2009 - 07:26pm PT
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Wasn't that the start of The March of Dimes Climbing Team?!? LOL
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Nov 15, 2009 - 09:15pm PT
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Front page stuff. Thank you Park Rat. You are 67 years young. Wheeeee!
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Norton
Social climber
the Wastelands
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Nov 15, 2009 - 09:43pm PT
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"creamed by a pickup" in 1969,
and climbed South Face of Half Dome and WOEML one year later in 1970
very tough guy
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hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
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Nov 16, 2009 - 01:48pm PT
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Thanks for the great perspective on someone who is such a legend (a friend for those who remember him, but a legend for some of us young bucks). This thread really helps personify Harding, especially with the recent post by Peter Haan sharing the letters he was dropping off the WOEML.
Awesome stuff!
Lets hear some more stories from the 'outsiders' (as in a non-climbers) perspective on some of the experiences of being at the kings table (ie Mt. Room Bar) during such a golden era of climbing! You probably have enough to fill a book!
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jopay
climber
so.il
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Nov 16, 2009 - 01:53pm PT
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Susie, Great memories from a remarkable time in our climbing history. I had the pleasure to meet Warren in Estes sometime in the late 80's, doing a slide show there. Thanks for sharing.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Nov 16, 2009 - 01:56pm PT
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Susie,
Thanks for a totally fabulous thread. Rules? What, are you on crack?
This the Taco - you can put any topping you want on a taco!
I didn't' know there were rules about how to climb a rock?
I just thought you shouldn't’t fall off, what do I know?
Ha! I'm pretty sure that was Warren's philosophy too.
Keep on keepin' on!
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Norton
Social climber
the Wastelands
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Nov 16, 2009 - 02:00pm PT
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Susie, can you tell us anything Alice Flomp may have said about Harding?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 17, 2009 - 08:48pm PT
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This classic Sheridan Anderson cartoon definitely belongs on this thread!
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Nov 18, 2009 - 09:45am PT
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I thought Red Mountain used screw tops?
Interestting that it is not signed.
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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Nov 20, 2009 - 07:57am PT
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Here's what fellow climber Chuck Pratt had to say about Warren during an interview with Jim Hartz, former co host with Barbara Walters of the NBC-TV's Today Show.
http://www.yosemiteclimbing.org/content/chuck-pratt-past-50-and-no-falls
Jim:
"Chuck warmly acknowledged that Warren Harding had been the most immediate influence in that particular group of people when he started climbing".
Chuck:
"We were considered outlaws in Yosemite in those days (the late 50s) ‑‑ in the company of the Hell's Angels and groups like that," Chuck said, "because we were different.
"He (Harding) was an extreme individual even in a collection of individuals.
"It was hard for any of the other climbers to even relate to what he was trying to do. It was such an extreme step, to climb the Nose of El Cap back then in 1957‑58 when I was just getting started.
"He had incredible drive. He was an extreme individual. I admired that at the time, and I still do.”
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Park Rat
Social climber
CA, UT,CT,FL
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 20, 2009 - 11:33am PT
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Jan,
Thanks for the up date. Harding was such a wonderful, colorful character,
a real “one off.”
I almost didn't write about him, I still worry, I will displease someone!
I can almost hear him saying to me “go get them Kid!”
I hope to fine the right words, to do justice to his larger than life spirit.
In 1972. I would have said how much I enjoyed talking with him,
I can now appreciate him much more fully than I did back in the day.
I hope to give a more complete picture of him, not the caricature so many see today.
If I can do that, I will have at last repaid him for all the kindness he showed
to this “big kid.” I owe him that, & will give it my best effort.
I see all of the early climbers as the “barnstormers” of their day, each unique & special, it’s a privileged to have know even one of them.
Have you read the posts of oldguy, Joe Fitschen, lost Arrow Trip report, 9/19/09.
It’s a great read, & it is a perfect lead up to a story I plan to write, about Warren & the Lost Arrow.
Take Care,
Park Rat
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Nov 20, 2009 - 12:47pm PT
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Ditto on the thanks! Seriously, thank you so much for sharing that personal note!
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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Nov 20, 2009 - 02:54pm PT
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I'm definitely looking forward to heaing about Warren and the Lost Arrow.
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Crag
Trad climber
Pennsyltuckey
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Nov 20, 2009 - 03:44pm PT
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a wonderful read.
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Gobee
Trad climber
Los Angeles
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Dec 19, 2009 - 07:03pm PT
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Alpinist illustrator Sean McCabe died on the morning of November 7 from undifferentiated anaplastic carcinoma of the thyroid. He was 46. Sean was a family man, teacher, artist, skier and climber; the bold brush strokes he painted on canvas and through his life will be profoundly missed.
Sean's illustrations—unmistakable expressionistic paintings of climbers, skiers and landscapes in which color and motion catch not just the moment but the life of the experience—appeared regularly in Alpinist and in Cross Country Skier, Climbing and the American Alpine Journal, among others. He was an artist who expressed his joys, many of them athletic endeavors in the wild, with lucid color.
Beyond his art, Sean's greatest talent may have been his ability to teach. The recipient of two Teacher of the Year awards, the Catalyst Award and the Milkin Family Foundation National Educator Award, Sean spent nearly 20 years sharing his joy of life with countless students in Utah and Washington.
Sean is survived by his wife Laura and daughters Novie (7) and Dashe (3).
The Alpinist family is deeply saddened by Sean's passing. With his family's permission, we have run a selection of the work Sean published with us over the years. More of Sean's art can be viewed and purchased at seanmccabestudio.com.
Batso At Rest By Sean McCabe from Alpinist 22
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Dodo
Trad climber
Spain/UK
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Dec 20, 2009 - 07:48am PT
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Brilliant story Park Rat, I have copied it to a UK climbing site, hope you don't mind.
Al
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Park Rat
Social climber
CA, UT,CT,FL
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 20, 2009 - 12:04pm PT
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Dodo,
Feel free to use anything I write about Warren.
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Park Rat
Social climber
CA, UT,CT,FL
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 30, 2009 - 10:39pm PT
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I will be posting a long bio. of Warren in Jan of 2010 I realized a lot of what I want to say, does not fit in my stories, so I am writing a long description of what he was like in person.
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Park Rat
Social climber
CA, UT,CT,FL
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 16, 2011 - 11:21pm PT
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I thought it was time to rewrite my first post about Warren Harding.
I've added a new material and tried to make it a little more readable.
I hope you enjoy my story.
Park Rat
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 16, 2011 - 11:28pm PT
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Susie has added some photos of herself in about 1970, when she met Warren. Check them out.
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Norton
Social climber
the Wastelands
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Aug 17, 2011 - 12:24am PT
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Thanks for the new little gems and the great pictures of you in 1970, Susie!
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Sheets
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 17, 2011 - 01:39am PT
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Great story, missed this thread the first time around.
And I need a time machine to go back to 1970, a mere nine years before I was born!
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S.Leeper
Sport climber
Pflugerville, Texas
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Aug 17, 2011 - 01:40am PT
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Really cool to hear another side of the highpriest of El CAP.
Thanks for sharing.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
or some such
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Aug 17, 2011 - 01:44am PT
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I knew the Warren that told us he was old & washed out but we loved him all the same. Just stoked to have met him, really.
No way that he & Pat Sullivan should be in the same car without a specified driver. Terrifying. Truly.
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Social climber
Retired to Appalachia
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Oct 27, 2011 - 02:57pm PT
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We dug this out from the deep recesses of the closet and dusted off the cobwebs.
We got this business card from Ms. Alice Flomp at Warren Harding's 69th birthday party at a secret meeting of the L.S.E.D.F.S. in 1993. Sadly, Ms. Flomp died in an automobile accident in 2008 at the age of 79.
My brother got a copy of The Vertical World of Yosemite signed by Warren Harding at the party. I got a tequila hangover with Batso.
More than a decade before this, I did a winter solo of Warren Harding's West Face of the Leaning Tower in the later winter of 1980. The day I topped out on the Leaning Tower, David Kays (soloing the Nose) froze to death in a winter storm 250 feet from the summit of El Capitan. I had dropped my bivi gear 2 nights before and was lucky to get off the Tower when I did, or I would havae frozen to death, too. After two freezing nights in nothing but a cagoule in a hammock, I was anxious to get my ass to the top.
The next morning after my epic solo, in the snowy Yosemite Lodge parking lot, I ran into Warren Harding walking a dog. I'll never forget that face - how could you? He was wearing his BATSO T-shirt.
What a coincidence, huh?
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Park Rat
Social climber
CA, UT,CT,FL
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 27, 2011 - 04:27pm PT
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Thanks for posting that.
I have not seen that card before.
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labrat
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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Oct 27, 2011 - 05:01pm PT
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Thanks for posting and the update! I never saw the original.
Erik
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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Oct 28, 2011 - 06:17pm PT
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super great story! He was one of my climbing idols and the few times i got to meet him i was always impressed with his attitude.
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Social climber
Retired to Appalachia
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Oct 29, 2011 - 10:17am PT
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Hey kid, I spent all my free time in Fayettenam kayaking on the New and Gauley Rivers, done some climbing in the New River Gorge with squirt boat Steve
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JerryA
Mountain climber
Sacramento,CA
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Oct 29, 2011 - 11:23am PT
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One time went to Bucks Bar at the Consumnes Gorge to toprope by myself & Warren invited me to climb with him & some friends.
Told him about a partners recent experience at Lover Leap. Some tall guy walked up and asked if he could join them because he had missed connections. The leader demanded to know what he had climbed before & was only satisfied when the tall guy named a few routes and introduced himself as TM Herbert.
Warren said he had a similar experience but did not call himself TM.
It was a grand day !
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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Oct 29, 2011 - 11:57am PT
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Susie-
It's good to see you posting again.
I had a computer crash and have lost your email address.
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Park Rat
Social climber
CA, UT,CT,FL
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 29, 2011 - 07:29pm PT
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Hi Jan,
I'm still here in sunny Florida. I am still trying to get Beryl to contribute to Warrens story, without much success. I am patient if nothing else.
I have to admit I love seeing Warrens stories come back to the front page. I think a lot about the early Warren that we both knew, versus the later Batso that he became as he aged.
I often wonder if I would have liked the older alcoholic Harding nearly as much as I like his younger self.
I hope I can strike a balance between the man I remember and the man he became later in life.
I am grateful that I knew Warren in the early 70s and that I can pass his story along to a younger generation that did not get to experience the full measure of most interesting man.
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Samarina
climber
Redding, CA
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Hi Park Rat (Susie?) -- I just sent you an email. Warren was my dad's uncle, and they were very close. What an amazing collection of memories, and I love reading all the posts about him! I'm sad to hear of Beryl's reluctance to share her memories... If you do speak to her again please send her best regards from the Reece family. ~Sam
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dirt claud
Social climber
san diego,ca
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Awesome thread Park Rat, thank you so much, love reading about this stuff.
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Park Rat
Social climber
CA, UT,CT,FL
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 3, 2011 - 08:43pm PT
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I am so happy to hear from someone who hung out with Harding.
For those of you who have not read my other Harding stories,
I recommend you follow the links to a few notes on the life of Warren Harding.
Feel free to jump in with comments. Thank you very much.
Park Rat
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there say... thanks so very much parkrat, for just simply being you...
neat gal and very good share... time for a
warren harding remembrance, again...
though i am not a climber, i understand the feelings
that move one, to do so... things like this,
are in our family...
:)
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wayne burleson
climber
Amherst, MA
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thanks for bumping this thread. had never seen it before...
Great stories about a great man and hero to many of us!
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
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Apr 11, 2017 - 10:36pm PT
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Apr 12, 2017 - 07:33am PT
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That picture shows what a physical stud Warren was in his youth. He was renowned for his hiking ability and at one time had the fastest time among Camp 4 denizens from the Valley to the top of Half Dome.
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Mark Rodell
Trad climber
Bangkok
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Mar 26, 2019 - 07:31am PT
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Well that video was fun to watch. In it
Warren says that a lot of climbers wanted him to fail on the Dawn. sadly this is true. I was in high school and had been climbing for two years so I knew everything. I got on the bandwagon of bashing Harding. I was young which is my excuse for being such a fool.
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aspendougy
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Mar 27, 2019 - 10:44pm PT
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Dear Park Rat:
This was so sweet, simple and heartfelt. Thank you. I only met the man once, around 1969, never talked with him; He came into the employee dining room at Tuolumne, started talking to Loyd Price. Seemed real friendly and gregarious. Does any one know what became of Dean Caldwell, his Dawn partner?
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