Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 81 of total 81 in this topic |
rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 11, 2009 - 10:41pm PT
|
Sounds like he could use some supertopian good vibes sent his way. Hoping for the best...
"Newsflash: Tomaz Humar reportedly injured on Langtang Lirung's north face"
"Tomaz is stuck on Langtang Lirung's north face, somewhere near 6,300m,"
http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=18864
|
|
neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
|
|
|
Nov 11, 2009 - 10:43pm PT
|
hey there say, yep, we will all step in to pray and such... thanks for letting us know...
oh my...
|
|
Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
Will know soon
|
|
|
Nov 11, 2009 - 11:09pm PT
|
Well, I am now praying. I ask God to help him mentally, physically, psychologically and spiritually .... he is in one tough spot. Peace, lynne
Edit: prayers for loved ones also, both family and friends.
|
|
Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
|
|
|
Nov 11, 2009 - 11:19pm PT
|
It sounds hopeful actually. Langtang Valley where he's stuck, is just north of Kathmandu. It should be easy for rescue teams, including helicopters to reach. The other thing to his advantage is that he's only at 6,300 meters or a little over 20,000 feet, so there are no major oxygen problems. The permanent glacier line only starts about 18,000 feet in the Himalayas. Depending on how severely injured his leg is (blood clots etc) he has a very good chance.
In this year of tragedy, let us hope for the best with many good wishes sent his way.
|
|
Allen Hill
Social climber
CO.
|
|
|
Nov 11, 2009 - 11:23pm PT
|
That's good to hear. He's a great guy. He has the most memorable handshake of anyone I've encountered.
|
|
Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
Will know soon
|
|
|
Nov 11, 2009 - 11:27pm PT
|
Jan, thanks for all the information. Peace, lynne
|
|
GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
|
|
|
Nov 12, 2009 - 12:26am PT
|
Hoping for the best, he sure pushes the envelope pretty hard. I hope he's getting ready to tune it down a bit, he's just too dang bitchin'
|
|
Rob_James
Mountain climber
Aoraki/Mt. Cook Village, New Zealand
|
|
|
Nov 12, 2009 - 12:45am PT
|
F me.
The drongo heads-on with no support crew.
Gets smacked. Radios off to Europe and now others will be compelled to drag his sorry arse off.
Heck. Bring his butt down alive.
But here's the deal. You want to solo then you accept full responsibility. Hire your own damn full-time rescue team for the job on stand-by - quit compelling the risk to others.
Cop the critique sweet Tomaz. We know it's irrespective of altitude - you'd still radio to plea from 24 thousand. Your history-onics show little regard for those who've endangered themselves greatly to keep you alive today.
|
|
billygoat
climber
cruzville
|
|
|
Nov 12, 2009 - 12:46am PT
|
I've heard other alpinists throw down some pretty harsh words about the last time this happened--most notably Steve House. Something along the lines of he gets into these situations as a publicity stunt. Discuss...
|
|
Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
|
|
|
Nov 12, 2009 - 12:53am PT
|
He must have been on something very dangerous to get injured at such a low altitude.
The low altitude should make his rescue fairly straight forward however. At that altitude they can lower people from helicopters or pass him a rope fairly easily I would think. Helicopters in Nepal run about 5,000 dollars an hour however. Let's hope he had insurance.
Meanwhile the Nepalese military pilots get more free training.
|
|
Jerry Dodrill
climber
Sebastopol, CA
|
|
|
Nov 12, 2009 - 01:03am PT
|
Training can kill pilots too. Last time, before Nanga Parbat, he marketed the fact that rescue was impossible, commitment total... blah...blah...blah... Then when things went awry he was crying for a rescue. They saved his ass and now he's back up in the same situation.
|
|
TripL7
Trad climber
'dago'
|
|
|
Nov 12, 2009 - 01:03am PT
|
Jan!
Interesting data/logistics and insight.
Keep on with the info/posting.
|
|
Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
|
|
|
Nov 12, 2009 - 03:26am PT
|
I've been there, thats a big gnarly peak!
can you guys wait until he gets down before you start tearing into him...sheesh whether you like his style or not...he is a human being, a climber just like the rest of us.
"rescue will be fairly straightforward"
^^^lol, thats f*#kin easy for you to say from your office chair.
|
|
shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
|
|
|
Nov 12, 2009 - 04:01am PT
|
its easy to condemn others for what they see as reckless climbing. and as a sar member in yos for ten years, i know the dangers that recuers are put in. i'm sure he did not plan to get hurt, after all, he carries picturs of his family with him on his climbs. the thing is, the call to the mountains is so irrestible to some that to thwart it is to lose one's whole identity and reason for living. some of us our happiest in the mountains and can't say no to the personal challenges of the peaks. i sure hope he makes it back. shipoopoi
|
|
Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
|
|
|
Nov 12, 2009 - 10:30am PT
|
Here's the latest:
http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=18867
Rescue underway on Langtang Lirung: Sherpa team and a chopper trying to reach Tomaz Humar
04:45 am CST Nov 12, 2009
(MountEverest.net/Madrid) A rescue party is trying to reach Slovenian Tomaz Humar – injured and stranded at about 6,300 meters on Langtang Lirung’s north face since earlier this week.
“A rescue team managed to fix ropes up to 6,200m yesterday,” Branco Ivanek told Barrabes.com. “They are 100 below Tomaz, but there's been no way to contact the climber yet. Rescue labours will continue tomorrow - as well as aerial search from a chopper appointed to scout the face.”
No further contact over sat-phone
While details are still sketchy, local media report that Tomaz Humar broke a leg (and possibly some ribs) while on descent on Monday, and called for help over sat-phone.
“A Sherpa rescue team was sent to the spot immediately,” Union of Asian Alpine Associations' president Ang Tshering Sherpa told 24Ur network. “First they fixed up 400m of rope to C1, then went up on a second push with 900 extra meters – enough to fix up to 6,300m. However, they have not been able to find Humar yet. There’s been no further contact over sat-phone either.”
Tomaz Humar was born on February 18, 1969 in Ljubljana, Slovenia. He has been a member of the Kamnik branch of the Alpine Club since 1987, and completed nearly 70 first ascents at home and abroad.
Tomaz's most remarkable climbs have been tough climbs on 6000ers and 7000ers: New routes on Ama Dablam, Lobuche, Nuptse West, Dhaulagiri (no summit), Aconcagua South face, etc.
In October, 2007, he forged a new route in pure alpine style along the right side of the South Face of Annapurna. He climbed on virgin terrain until 7500 meters where he met up with the East Ridge route which he took to the East Summit at 8047 meters. Humar climbed the route in only 2 days (roundtrip) in very tough conditions.
Langtang Lirung (7,200/7,300m depending source), SW of Shisha Pangma, is the highest point in Langtang Himal. Rarely visited, teams usually attempt the summit from the peak's East ridge. Terrain is mostly steep, difficult ice.
|
|
Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
|
|
|
Nov 12, 2009 - 10:36am PT
|
The irony I see in the situation is that climbers like Tomaz choose not to use Sherpas for their ascents, but when they get in trouble, the call goes out for Sherpas to save them. A tad hypocritical it seems to me.
Assuming all get back safely, the Sherpas will have seen it as a lucrative few days and will no doubt joke with Tomaz that next time he should climb with Sherpas from the start, he's going to pay them either way.
As for helicopters, the Nepalese fly goats and kerosene in them and the army does border patrols in them every day. I don't see a rescue as more dangerous than that. And a rescue brings good karma which is important in that part of the world.
|
|
maldaly
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
|
|
|
Nov 12, 2009 - 10:50am PT
|
Awwwww. This doesn't sound good. Tomaz, my thoughts are with you and your bone-crushing handshake. Be well, my friend.
Mal
|
|
philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
|
|
|
Nov 12, 2009 - 11:03am PT
|
I am with Mal. It's hard to fathom folks slagging on Tomaz while he is hurt. Firemen don't opt out of fighting a fire and rescuing someone because they fell asleep smoking. At least wait till he is back and safe before dishing out the bad vibes.
|
|
rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
|
|
|
Nov 12, 2009 - 11:28am PT
|
Good luck Thomaz.
Not sure how I feel about multiple rescues. It seems to me Tomaz' climbs are on a par with some of Steve House's. And I'm always applauding Steve's. Should climbers generally stop doing extreme stuff because a rescue might be necessary? Hell, I might have to be rescued off of Royal Arches one day :). Maybe I should just stay home.
by the way, how many here have ever been rescued? 30 yrs and counting in the mountains and I haven't yet (knock on wood). But the coastguard has picked me up more than once windsurfing (on a strong outgoing tide and dying wind). I guess we're even.
|
|
Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
|
|
|
Nov 12, 2009 - 11:53am PT
|
mt10910, stfu
|
|
Prezwoodz
Big Wall climber
Anchorage
|
|
|
Nov 12, 2009 - 03:12pm PT
|
"mt10910, stfu"
Agreed.
|
|
Brunosafari
Boulder climber
OR
|
|
|
Nov 12, 2009 - 03:31pm PT
|
Many prayers and much concern for Tomaz and our climbing friends in and from Slovenia, some of the greatest people I have ever known. Bruce Adams
|
|
Barcus
Social climber
San Luis Obispo, Ca.
|
|
|
Nov 12, 2009 - 04:01pm PT
|
mt10910, stfu x3!
Marcus
Evil too!
|
|
Dolomite
climber
Anchorage
|
|
|
Nov 12, 2009 - 04:04pm PT
|
The rescue will NOT be straightforward. He hasn't been heard from since Monday, his leg is broken, and thus far, they can't find him.
Best wishes for a positive outcome--
|
|
Jerry Dodrill
climber
Sebastopol, CA
|
|
|
Nov 12, 2009 - 04:21pm PT
|
I really do hope Tomaz pulls this off. Sorry to sound crass above. Wishing him the best of luck.
|
|
Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
|
|
|
Nov 12, 2009 - 04:39pm PT
|
"did you totally miss the pt. of my post"
my point is no one gives a fck about your point...which is all about YOU and has nothing to do with the situation this thread is about.
|
|
Fogarty
climber
Back in time..
|
|
|
Nov 12, 2009 - 04:46pm PT
|
The only thing I can think of is God speed Tomaz.
|
|
Fogarty
climber
Back in time..
|
|
|
Nov 12, 2009 - 04:55pm PT
|
Radical, I agree Let's send good vibes!
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
|
Nov 12, 2009 - 04:57pm PT
|
mt# et al,
Now is not the time or place to do anything but support the friends and family of Tomaz as well as Tomaz. Save it for A DIFFERENT THREAD AFTER THINGS ARE RESOLVED FOR BETTER OR WORSE. Have we not had enough of this this year?
All,
Hopefully he'll be down soon and ok.
kev
|
|
Rob_James
Mountain climber
Aoraki/Mt. Cook Village, New Zealand
|
|
|
Nov 12, 2009 - 05:36pm PT
|
A'h bullocks.
Everyone horraying to go grab the lad only adds to the compelling pressure imposed on the rescuers. In Pakistan, rescue crews were like "No way, too dangerous" until international-lay pressure mounted on the pilots to risk it all. And Tomaz was a right bullocks after being plucked from Nanga.
You can not sepertae your words from your actions. Hell, what sort of 'man' heads-off to solo the Rupal leaving his wife and kids at home to worry, whilst he's having a sexual-affair with a reporter in basecamp?
If he were to do anything meaningful after that jaunt he might at least have climbed back up to collect all the junk he'd left on Nanga.
The guy goes solo in part because few can handle much time with him. I've played in the Julian and Tetra. The local word is he can be suave as, but mighty caustic when he's not trying to sell you something.
Though it should be noted. Tomaz is a pro. When it comes to getting rescued, he nows exactly what to do. No contact could be for a smart, simple stratergy. Sit tight. Don't burn the phone batteries till the rescuers are in sight.
But yeah. Get the so-and-so down if you can. But no more permits.
|
|
Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
|
|
|
Nov 12, 2009 - 09:27pm PT
|
Well here's a new complication.
http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=18868
(Ed note: Details have been sketchy in this situation, due to friends' and related media's wish to honor Humar's request for no public coverage of his climb. One of the confusions therefore seems to involve on which side of the peak the injured climber is located. ExplorersWeb will update with more information as it becomes available.)
If he's on the Tibetan side that could explain why they can't find him. It might also explain why he has requested no publicity.
|
|
rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
|
|
|
Nov 12, 2009 - 09:30pm PT
|
lets put together a Supertopo team and fly over there to help. We've certainly got the depth to pull this off. Werner, you're the chief; are you in?
|
|
Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
|
|
|
Nov 12, 2009 - 09:53pm PT
|
Wow, Rob James sure is an assh0le! Get the f'ck outa here, supertopo is fresh outa room for sh#t talkers like youself.
|
|
Brunosafari
Boulder climber
OR
|
|
|
Nov 12, 2009 - 10:09pm PT
|
I am sick with grief at the drama unfolding and I feel personally offended by RJ's comments.
|
|
'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
|
|
|
Nov 12, 2009 - 10:24pm PT
|
Sh#t, just got out of the cave after 3 days underground. Cool new connection, though. Thanks, Dave, for the link.
I'm praying for Tomaz - he's a good friend of mine, and he is one insanely tough MoFo. If anyone can survive, it's Tomaz.
|
|
Rob_James
Mountain climber
Aoraki/Mt. Cook Village, New Zealand
|
|
|
Nov 12, 2009 - 10:28pm PT
|
Lambone: I resemble that remark :) And I respect hard work. Other peoples opinions as their own. And I respect the dead.
Those who back their words with action don't head-up then ask others to risk it all to pull them down when things get a little tough. And they don't shaft those who worry for them.
O'h it is by no means surprising that some may be offended - but then your neck isn't stuck out chasing a goose with a track record for this lark. Some think they know. Whilst others are looking everywhere for him. But where is he?
Onward,
Stay warm, keep cool Tomaz
|
|
TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
|
|
|
Nov 12, 2009 - 10:32pm PT
|
Sending good thoughts and hoping for the best possible outcome here.
|
|
Blinky
Trad climber
|
|
|
Nov 13, 2009 - 09:07am PT
|
RJ, A broken leg on a steep mountain is more than "a little tough". At this point rescue may end up being recovery... or not even that. He's not some tired lost yuppie with an ELT, he's a seriously injured mountaineer in a bad spot. He knows they will try to get to him... but he also knows they may not be able to. At this point, he's in waaay deep, rescuers were unable to fly all day and conditions are bad.
Professional rescuers aren't the type to whine about attempting a tough mountain rescue, it's what they live for.
|
|
Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
|
|
|
Nov 13, 2009 - 10:04am PT
|
The latest report definitely indicates that things have taken a turn for the worse. The rescue Sherpas have already reached 6,300 meters where he said he was and couldn't find him. and have now retreated due to bad weather and avalanche risk. The Swiss are stuck in base camp for the same reason.
http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=18870
Langtang Lirung rescue update: Tomaz Humar missing, Swiss rescuers stuck in BC
05:30 am CST Nov 13, 2009
(MountEverest.net/Madrid) Concerns grow for Slovenian Tomaz Humar, reported injured and missing on Langtang Lirung. Humar last called his BC crew on Tuesday, while chopper pilots and Sherpa rescuers have been yet unable to find the injured climber on the area he was expected to be.
A second rescue team, just arrived in BC from Switzerland, is currently halted by bad weather and high avalanche risk.
While details are still sketchy, Asian Trekking’s Dawa Sherpa has just updated news on an email to ExplorersWeb.
Monday: First SOS call
“Mr. Tomaz Humar, Slovenian nationality, left towards Langtang Lirung on October 5th, aiming for a solo climb," Dawa wrote.
“On the evening of November 9th, Asian Trekking received an emergency call from BC crew member Jagat: Tomaz had had an accident at approximately 6,300m and requested immediate rescue.”
“The following morning (Nov10th), a helicopter with four Nepalese Climbing Sherpas (geared up with rescue equipment)were sent to BC. The chopper scouted the face looking for a certain location Humar had previously described. The crew was unable to spot the climber though. Then the helicopter dropped the rescue team in Base Camp and returned to Kathmandu.”
Tuesday: Tomaz’s latest call
“That day (Nov 10th) at 10:00am was also the last time Tomaz called Jagat,” dawa continued. “The conversation was very short. Tomaz seemed to be in a very critical condition and his voice was very weak. He said: ’Jagat, this is my last!’. There was no further contact with Tomaz after that.”
“Meanwhile, the Sherpa rescue team set up Camp 1 at 5,800m before nightfall.”
Wednesday: Sherpas find no trace on the spot
“On the following morning (Nov11th) the Sherpas proceeded up to the spot Humar had pointed out as latest location, but were unable to find him.”
“A snow storm unfolding on Nov 12th (yesterday) forced the Sherpa team back to BC.”
Today’s news: Rescuers and choppers grounded
“Three Rescue pilot/climbers from Switzerland are arriving today, together with some Tomaz’s relatives. We’ll discuss further rescue efforts with them.”
Further news arrived two hours later, from Slovenia’s Climbing federation. “Bad weather (thick fog) has kept the chopper grounded today, making any further search flight impossible” Branko Ivanek told Barrabes.com. “The Swiss rescue team has just reached BC, but avalanche risk (after the recent snowfall) is too high to venture up the face.”
“The situation is serious,” Branko added. “We’re being told that Tomaz’s injuries may be worse than expected; besides a broken leg and snapped ribs, he might have back injuries as well. Should that be confirmed, an airlift would be the only possible option.
|
|
Studly
Trad climber
WA
|
|
|
Nov 13, 2009 - 10:12am PT
|
Serious escalation of a bad situation, sheesh. Sounds like he was seriously hurt, and these days of bad weather and no communication cannot bode well. Thoughts and prayers for Tomaz fighting for his life.
|
|
rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
|
|
|
Nov 13, 2009 - 11:39am PT
|
doesn't sound good at all. Good vibes to Tomaz. ("vibes" are prayerful well wishes)
|
|
'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
|
|
|
Nov 14, 2009 - 12:25am PT
|
Wow - it's not looking good:
http://www.etaiwannews.com/etn/news_content.php?id=1107229&lang=eng_news
Snow hampers search for missing Slovenian climber
By BINAJ GURUBACHARYA
Associated Press
2009-11-13 01:50 PM Fonts Size:
Heavy snowfall in the high Himalayas has hampered search and rescue efforts for a missing Slovenian climber who was last reported injured and stranded alone on the icy slopes, rescuers said Friday.
Tomaz Humar, 40, called Monday by satellite phone and said he was injured while climbing 23,710-feet (7,227-meter) Langtang Lirung.
Ang Tshering, who is coordinating rescue efforts, told The Associated Press they found no trace of Humar on Tuesday or Wednesday during searches by air and on foot.
Sherpa guides acclimated to the high elevation were taken by helicopter to the Langtang Lirung base camp then trekked the snowy slopes to the area where Humar was supposed to be, but could not find him, Tshering said.
Heavy snowfall on Wednesday and Thursday forced climbers to postpone further searches because of the increased avalanche risk. Humar was climbing a difficult route up Langtang Lirung, which has made rescue efforts even more difficult.
Tshering said expert rescuers from Switzerland were expected to join the effort in coming days.
Hundreds of mountaineers travel to Nepal every year to climb the highest and most difficult mountains in the world.
Humar, who is married with two children, has climbed many mountains around the world.
In 2005, he got trapped in the Himalayas on an icy ledge of Nanga Parbat mountain at about (19,685 feet) 6,000 meters during a solo climb. Two Pakistani army helicopter pilots eventually saved him and were later decorated with Slovenian highest award for bravery.
Prayers for Tomaz!
|
|
Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
|
|
|
Nov 14, 2009 - 03:47am PT
|
http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=2238764;page=unread#unread
from overlord on RC.com
"One of the best slovenian mountaineers Tomaz Humar passed away somewhere between monday 9. nov. 2009 and today. He was attempting a solo ascent of Langtang Lirung.
Since his solo attempt on Nanga Parbat in 2006 he kept his plans pretty secret because that attempt and the following rescue raised a lot of media attention. He called home and hes sherpas on monday, stating that he was seriously injured and then all contact with him was lost. The rescuers were grounded until today due to poor weather and when the finally could mount a rescue attempt, they found him dead at an altitude of 5600m.
First reports say that he suffered spinal injuries, some damage to the ribs and a leg, but i dont yet know how severe these were. It is most likely that he succumbed to them in the night from monday to tuesday when the contact with him was lost.
Hes adventures really split the slovenian public, some admiring hes courage, othera spurning him for hes supposed lack of common sense (some debates even touched the subject of who was to pay for hes rescue(s))... Personally, i have always believed that he knew what he was doing, even if most people couldnt imagine doing it. Our world would be a bleak place if it didnt have individuals like him, people who are willing to go beyond what other consider 'normal'.
Well, at least he passed away doing what he loved most and not because he was hit by a drunk driver while crossing the street. Rest in peace, Tomaž.
"
|
|
neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
|
|
|
Nov 14, 2009 - 03:56am PT
|
hey there jan, say thanks for the updates, and sadly now, i must say:
dear avit... thank you for sharing this sad news.... :(
my condolences to his family.... :(
it seems so "cold" to just have one lonely word left to say about another's life, but the good lord knows our hearts...
prayers for his family, left behind, as i heard somewhere here, that he has a young child? (edit: got it---two children)
:(
|
|
Fletcher
Trad climber
Pasadena, CA
|
|
|
Nov 14, 2009 - 04:12am PT
|
So sorry... Peace to you and yours, Tomaz!
Eric
|
|
nature
climber
Tucson, AZ
|
|
|
Nov 14, 2009 - 04:41am PT
|
I'm so very sad to hear of this news. The tribe takes yet again another blow.
Condolences offered to family and friends.
Rest in peace, Tomaz.
|
|
Rob_James
Mountain climber
Aoraki/Mt. Cook Village, New Zealand
|
|
|
Nov 14, 2009 - 05:45am PT
|
|
|
martygarrison
Trad climber
The Great North these days......
|
|
|
Nov 14, 2009 - 06:07am PT
|
sad news
|
|
'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
|
|
|
Nov 14, 2009 - 09:27am PT
|
I'm so sad. He was my friend.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=50359
On Monday the 9th of November Slovenian Alpinist Tomaz Humar sustained an injury high on Langtang Lirung's South Face in Nepal.
Humar was climbing solo and found himself stranded at around 6300m. He then telephoned a friend back in Slovenia to raise the alarm and a rescue operation was started.
The rescue service Air Zermatt were contacted and a rescue team was arranged. The operation took several days to reach basecamp due to difficulties in gaining permission for the Air Zermatt pilot Robert Andenmatten to fly a Nepalese helicopter.
In a statement made on the 12th of November (the rescue team had still not got final permission to fly) Air Zermatt's chief pilot Gerold Biner said:
"Our biggest challenge will be to arrange the permit for our pilot to fly a Nepalese helicopter. Sadly it seems difficult to convince the local authorities that our pilots are very experienced 'longline-pilots' (we fly up to 8000 sling load operations a year -cargo and human up to a length of 600 ft. lines). We have the skills and the currency to perform such extreme rescue missions in high altitude. So please if anyone can help us to convince the Nepalese authorities, contact us. Please let us try to save Tomaz."
The rescue team were finally granted permission and two helicopters were scheduled to land at basecamp at 5am on Saturday the 14th. Unfortunately the team was too late.
In a statement made this morning, Gerold Biner of Air Zermatt said:
"We just got a call from our rescue team in Kathmandu. The rescue was made just a few minutes ago. Pilot Robert Andenmatten and rescuer Simon Anthamatten could get Tomaz down from Langthang Lirung. Unfortunately Tomaz did not survive. All our thoughts are with his family and friends.
Tomaz was found at 5600 metres in the south wall. Robert decided to use 25 meters of static rope to bring Simon on the accident site. Robert who was with a Nepali captain, first flew Tomaz to basecamp and went up again to get Simon. Tomaz was further down then expected and had a broken leg. Our team is not sure if he had fallen further in the wall."
Tomaz Humar, a father of two, was one of the most successful super-alpinists of recent years with a number of difficult and dangerous solo ascents to his name. He first gained wide recognition in the climbing world with his audacious solo of Dhaulagiri back in 1999 and went on to climb many other long and committing routes.
In 2005 Humar attempted to solo Nanga Parbat and was rescued from around 6000m by a Pakistani army helicopter crew. He had sheltered for four days in a small snow cave. This story is told in the book (pictured above) by Bernadette McDonald titled simply 'Tomaz Humar'.
Langtang Lirung is a 7227m peak in the Langtang Himal of the Nepalese Himalaya. It was first climbed in 1978 by Seishi Wada and Pemba Tsering via the East ridge.
RIP, Tomaz. You were the best.
|
|
Fogarty
climber
Back in time..
|
|
|
Nov 14, 2009 - 10:37am PT
|
May Tomaz family and frinds now be at PEACE.
|
|
paganmonkeyboy
climber
mars...it's near nevada...
|
|
|
Nov 14, 2009 - 10:50am PT
|
Oh No. Sad News indeed. My thoughts are with the family and friends...
-Tom
|
|
SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
|
|
|
Nov 14, 2009 - 10:52am PT
|
Sad.
My condolences to Tomaz' family and friends.
|
|
Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
|
|
|
Nov 14, 2009 - 10:56am PT
|
|
|
Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
|
|
|
Nov 14, 2009 - 11:54am PT
|
That sucks.
dangerous game he was playing...
I feel bad for his family.
Thomaz's first El Cap route, Reticent solo...blew my mind.
|
|
maldaly
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
|
|
|
Nov 14, 2009 - 12:27pm PT
|
Oh Man, that sucks. I'll miss you my friend.
Mal
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Nov 14, 2009 - 01:05pm PT
|
Peace brother,
Bad month, bad year, I wish his family the best.
Mucci
|
|
Misha
Trad climber
Woodside, CA
|
|
|
Nov 14, 2009 - 01:12pm PT
|
Reading about and getting inspired by Tomaz' adventures was one of the reasons why I started climbing. Seeing him go so soon leaves a big void.
RIP, Tomaz.
|
|
philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
|
|
|
Nov 14, 2009 - 01:35pm PT
|
RIP. Another sad loss.
|
|
habitat
climber
grass pass
|
|
|
Nov 14, 2009 - 01:37pm PT
|
Really sad news. Prayers out to his family, friends, and country.
Thank you Sherpas & Swiss.
|
|
Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
|
|
|
Nov 14, 2009 - 01:38pm PT
|
Here are some more details about the attempted rescue. This was the first time this particular rope technique and model of helicopter were used in Nepal. The pilot was Nepali, the rescuers Swiss.
http://www.explorehimalaya.com/blog/unusual-rescue-by-fishtail-air-helicopter/
Tomaz could not be saved, but this rescue attempt and the technique developed should benefit many climbers in the future.
May his friends and family take some comfort from that thought.
|
|
Jerry Dodrill
climber
Sebastopol, CA
|
|
|
Nov 14, 2009 - 02:51pm PT
|
Damn. Peace to his children and family.
|
|
'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
|
|
|
Nov 14, 2009 - 03:41pm PT
|
When Tomaz Humar came to Yosemite in 1998 to solo Reticent Wall, then one of El Cap's hardest, nobody would give him any beta! They didn't believe he could do it!
Tomaz didn't really have much experience soloing big walls, so I suggested he buy Chongo's book, which he did.
F*#k, man, can't believe he's dead. He cheated death so many times.
|
|
TYeary
Social climber
State of decay
|
|
|
Nov 14, 2009 - 03:45pm PT
|
He was such a prolific soloist on hard alpine, big mountain ground that it was inevitable at some point. I am saddend by his passing, but not suprised. The kind of climbing that Tomaz did is beyond the realm, the experiance, of most climbers and cragers. In my limited alpine carear, I have had the feeling for a while now, that my days doing what I do in the big mountains were coming to a end. One can only spend so long in the shooting gallery, reguardless of skill set, experiance. One day the luck runs out and you are in the right place at the wrong time .........
My condolences to friends and family.
Peace, Tomaz.
Tony
|
|
shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
|
|
|
Nov 14, 2009 - 10:15pm PT
|
wow, this is a surprise...it seemed like tomaz was on of those invincible guys. he played the game hard, and well, and his exploits will continue to inspire the coming hardmen.
my sincere condolences to his friends and admirers. of course, i feel especially bad for the family that he left behind, his kids that have to grow up without their daddy anymore. i
and kudos to the pilot and swiss rescue team for rushing to the scene, and risking their own necks to save tomaz. it is true bravery indeed to man up like that. simon anthabatta(sp?), an aquantaince of mine, was also on the annupurna rescue of last year. his willingness to help out in these situations exemplifies the comraderie that seems to have died in this era of guided big peaks but used to be prevalent BITD. if there is a recuer of the year award, simon would get my vote.
peace, steve schneider
|
|
Conrad
climber
|
|
|
Nov 14, 2009 - 11:05pm PT
|
With condolences and empathy. He was a great man.
From his book "No Impossible Ways":
"I am thankful for the grace I have been given. Where do I go from here? The common denominator of all my expeditions, adventures and aspirations has been the call of the face. Although I will not let you write about me, I wish to add a page to the diversity of humankind."
Thanks Tomaz for adding to the diveristy. I'll miss your iron grip.
|
|
rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
|
|
|
Nov 14, 2009 - 11:50pm PT
|
Very sad ending. He was a hero of sorts for me.
I believe it was after his Dhaulagiri climb that he commented he figured his odds were 50/50 of surviving that climb. How many times can you flip a coin without coming up heads? I think this points to a natural limit to how hard and how far climbers can push themselves - particularly in an environment where the objective dangers are so high. I envy Tomaz' courage even while I wonder where such trajectories lead - both for the individual and for the climbing community broadly, and why..
rest in peace, and say hi to John, Muggs, Bhul, Anatoli, Wanda, Alex and all the rest of our fallen heroes living now on high...
|
|
Binks
Social climber
|
|
|
Nov 16, 2009 - 07:23pm PT
|
I love that picture of him on the Reticent. PTPP can you repost that? It's a triumphant moment and seems the best way to remember Humar.
|
|
Misha
Trad climber
Woodside, CA
|
|
|
Nov 16, 2009 - 08:49pm PT
|
I am not PPTP but I think you have this photo in mind
(reposted from Humar's website)
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
|
|
Nov 16, 2009 - 10:19pm PT
|
Uggghh, this sucks....
Sorry for people that knew him, and more importantly his family. God bless them and may he rest in peace.
Talk about a bad year...
|
|
John Mac
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
|
|
|
Nov 16, 2009 - 10:24pm PT
|
Very sad that he passed away.
When he climbed Reticent, didn't he use just the one Aider?
Great pic by the way.
|
|
Binks
Social climber
|
|
|
Nov 16, 2009 - 10:27pm PT
|
Thanks for posting the pic and thanks to Tomaz for his inspiration. Godspeed Tomaz Humar.
|
|
'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
|
|
|
Nov 16, 2009 - 10:34pm PT
|
Looks like he has three aiders in this photo of Reticent. He used the Euro method whereby you hang the aider off of a fifi.
I always liked this one.
Photos by MATEJ MEJOVSEK, given to me by Tomaz who said I could use them. {sigh}
There's a funny little story that goes with the photos, about how his detractors wouldn't give him beta or even a topo, but he sent anyway.
|
|
Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
|
|
|
Nov 16, 2009 - 11:02pm PT
|
Great guy, full of positive energy. And if you shook his hand, you best be ready (otherwise the bones got rearranged or worse!).
Pretty tough arena to spend time in. Condolences to his friends and family.
Heavy sigh...
-Brian in SLC
|
|
'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
|
|
|
Nov 16, 2009 - 11:04pm PT
|
Oh my gosh, yes - his handshake! Holy frig, was he strong!
|
|
Conrad
climber
|
|
|
May 27, 2010 - 07:39pm PT
|
Just back from Kathmandu and the world of international high altitude climbing. Ed Douglas' article in R & I a few issues back was very well written. Thanks Ed.
Earlier in the winter the heli service that performed the search mentioned the sizeable bill that their work had incurred. I asked again last week and the outfit informed me that the Slovenian Alpine Club (with which Tomaz one might say "was at odds with") came into town, paid the bill in full. No questions, no haggling.
I've always had big respect for Slovenian climbers. In addition to carting 'em around in a wheelbarrow they took care of their own, regardless of differences.
Proud.
|
|
Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
|
|
|
May 27, 2010 - 07:42pm PT
|
Nice. Three cheers for my ancestral peeps.
Glad you're safely back to share, Conrad.
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
|
|
May 27, 2010 - 07:44pm PT
|
That is proud, Conrad. Good for them.
|
|
| Messages 1 - 81 of total 81 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!