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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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The lounge ought also to be recognized for its central role in Yosemite climbing. Mantles on the fireplace hood. Chess games in the corner. Loud, scruffy climbers everywhere, driving out the tourists. Climbers in the hall by the gift shop after the lounge closed, sometimes tipping the vending machines...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Absolutely rip roaring Naugahyde vortex at times!
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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""Does anyone still do it as an aid climb, or perhaps a largely free, partly aid climb?" "
It's called "MortalMan" if you do a bi-lingual ascent.
Peace
karl
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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I think a lot of folks do it quasi free and get by with a little help from their Friends. LOL
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Phantom Fugitive
Trad climber
Misery
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Apr 18, 2008 - 12:18pm PT
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Al Currano coming out of the slot...
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The Doctor
Social climber
Da Bronx
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Apr 19, 2008 - 12:33pm PT
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Ever since doing Astroman the first time in '92(freed it my second time up in '03) I've been hearing "I'm too big to get through the slot, that's why I only did Astroboy(the first 6 pitches or so). I call B*llsh*t! My friend Nils is 6'4" and about 210 lbs. He fit in just fine. So how many of you out there that are scared of the slot are bigger than Nils? Discuss amongst yourselves, The Doctor P.S. I was told my first time up it didn't matter which way you faced in the slot. That's bad beta. I've done it both ways and there is a big difference which side goes in, and if you haven't been up there yet I' m not saying which is better. So have people lb'ed the outside of the slot, like Largo was purported to have done? An intersting aside. When I did Steck/Salathe I didn't go through the narrows, I went outside, anybody else do that?
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Apr 19, 2008 - 12:52pm PT
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"When I did Steck/Salathe I didn't go through the narrows, I went outside, anybody else do that?"
Yup.
JL
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Nobody answered Largo's ??
Largo, I guess that means you're the only one!
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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>>When I did Steck/Salathe I didn't go through the narrows, I went >>outside, anybody else do that?"
>
>Yup.
>
>JL
Me too. Did that same thing on the SS.
Recall some discussion or other in the early days of wreck.climbing newsgroup about Bruce Bailey (Dr. Offwidth) climbing (leading?) the Harding Slot via layback. Believe he's a pretty big dude. Then again, maybe he was more comfortable doing it that way...
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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There is some pretty good reading on the subject
in my history of free climbing in America book,
commentaries by Bachar and Long, and of course
other events leading up through the years, such as
the first ascent... followed by a very fast and
bolt-chopping ascent by Royal and Frost... and
later the solo ascents...
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john hansen
climber
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Never heard about the bolt chopping on that route Pat.
Wasn't Pratt part of that first ascent with Harding?
Why did Robbins and Frost chop it. Siege tactics?
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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"The lounge ought also to be recognized for its central role in Yosemite climbing. Mantles on the fireplace hood. Chess games in the corner. Loud, scruffy climbers everywhere, driving out the tourists. Climbers in the hall by the gift shop after the lounge closed, sometimes tipping the vending machines... "
Oh my gosh Anders, you brought so many memories and emotions flooding back with that comment. I was just about in tears here for a minute. I'm still on the verge. Absolutely, one of the wildest, most crucial, beautiful parts of my life....to this day.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Yeah, you shoulda seen the smooth-talkin' I had to do when I got back to Seattle after a night in the Bar brought my REI expense account to the auto-conflagration point!
"You spent how much in one night?"
"Uh, it was product research?"
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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John,
The agreement between Royal and Tom was to remove any of the bolts that they found unnecessary during their ascent. Tom removed more bolts on that route than he placed in his entire career!
The excess of bolts was partly due to siege tactics and partly due to improvements in hardware in the interim. T & R were also a rather strong team!
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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I went outside the Narrows on the SS as well, and I was a very tight fit in Harding Slot. I remember feeling like a stuck blowfish in that thing! All I had to do was inhale and I could "drop" my legs or arms for a "rest"...
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
Sprocketville
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That flake below the slot with the serrated edge is ready to go.
Somebody needs to go up there with a pry bar tonight.
Oh, and i hearby declare this climbing season of 2009..
OFFICIALLY ......
OPEN!
Grab your sh#t lets get the hell out of here.
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the Fet
Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
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What a great thread.
Only one man could or would call those guys powder puff boys LOL!
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MisterE
Trad climber
One Place or Another
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bump for a great thread and stories
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