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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Nov 19, 2010 - 03:48am PT
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> does this constitute adventure in any shape or form?
Yes.
Was the Nose FA, with fixed lines from bottom to top, an adventure? Yes.
Having some fixed lines is only one dimension of their climb.
When you are pushing your limits, it's an adventure, even if you are on a toprope.
Here they are committing resources (including prep work over 3 years) into something where the chances of getting it freed are not very certain.
There are all kinds of adventures out there. Many of them are personal and might be hard for others to understand.
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TomCochrane
Trad climber
Santa Cruz Mountains and Monterey Bay
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Nov 19, 2010 - 03:54am PT
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I once stood right at the base of the Nose early in the morning after a big storm. I was looking up as the sun hit the upper part of the rock, which was glistening silver from great sheets of ice.
The ice started breaking loose in huge sheets that sailed down like falling autumn leaves fluttering back and forth in all directions and crashing down into the boulder fields and forest. I realized why there are no trees along the base of the wall.
I was standing in one of the only safe places; as the ice coming down the Nose was either deflected to one side or shattered into a rain of small ice crystals lit by the sun. Everywhere else was being bombarded by ice shrapnel.
There is no glory in getting pulverized by falling ice.
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Nov 19, 2010 - 04:12am PT
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does this constitute adventure in any shape or form? This effort seems a big step into the unknown in terms of the sustained level of concentration it requires. It seems to me that you are asking for something like a spacewalk without a tether.
They have already shown an amazing ability to keep their heads together when facing a long string of really hard, really technical pitches to do. If the effort is interrupted by the weather, then that's a shame, but I for one am really amazed and inspired by this project.
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BASE104
climber
An Oil Field
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Nov 19, 2010 - 09:11am PT
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Here is the Mammoth zone forecast. Tahoe looked pretty similar. Freaking evil winds up high...
CAZ073-200430- MONO- INCLUDING THE CITIES OF...BRIDGEPORT...COLEVILLE...LEE VINING... MAMMOTH LAKES 335 AM PST FRI NOV 19 2010
..WIND ADVISORY IN EFFECT UNTIL 4 PM PST THIS AFTERNOON ...WINTER STORM WARNING IN EFFECT FROM 4 PM THIS AFTERNOON TO 4 PM PST SUNDAY...
TODAY BREEZY. MOSTLY CLOUDY WITH A SLIGHT CHANCE OF SNOW IN THE AFTERNOON NEAR THE SIERRA CREST. HIGHS 44 TO 49. SOUTHWEST WINDS 20 TO 30 MPH WITH GUSTS UP TO 55 MPH. RIDGE GUSTS UP TO 105 MPH.
TONIGHT BRISK. SNOW AND RAIN. AREAS OF BLOWING SNOW AFTER MIDNIGHT. SNOW LEVEL 6000 FEET LOWERING TO THE VALLEY FLOOR. SNOW ACCUMULATION OF 3 TO 5 INCHES WITH 5 TO 10 INCHES ABOVE 7000 FEET. LOWS 18 TO 28. SOUTHWEST WINDS 20 TO 30 MPH DECREASING TO 15 TO 20 MPH AFTER MIDNIGHT. GUSTS UP TO 55 MPH. RIDGE GUSTS UP TO 90 MPH.
SATURDAY BRISK. SNOW. SNOW ACCUMULATION 3 TO 6 INCHES WITH 8 TO 14 INCHES WEST OF 395 ABOVE 7000 FEET. HIGHS 26 TO 31. SOUTHWEST WINDS 15 TO 20 MPH WITH GUSTS TO 35 MPH. RIDGE GUSTS UP TO 90 MPH.
SATURDAY NIGHT SNOW. AREAS OF BLOWING SNOW AFTER MIDNIGHT. LOWS 14 TO 19. SOUTHWEST WINDS 10 TO 20 MPH WITH GUSTS UP TO 35 MPH. RIDGE GUSTS UP TO 80 MPH.
SUNDAY...BRISK SNOW. HIGHS 23 TO 28. SOUTHWEST WINDS 15 TO 25 MPH WITH GUSTS UP TO 40 MPH. RIDGE GUSTS UP TO 80 MPH.
SUNDAY NIGHT SNOW. LOWS 8 TO 13.
MONDAY MOSTLY CLOUDY WITH A CHANCE OF SNOW SHOWERS. HIGHS 25 TO 30.
MONDAY NIGHT AND TUESDAY MOSTLY CLOUDY WITH A SLIGHT CHANCE OF SNOW SHOWERS. LOWS 8 TO 13. HIGHS 24 TO 29.
TUESDAY NIGHT PARTLY CLOUDY. LOWS 3 TO 8.
WEDNESDAY AND WEDNESDAY NIGHT CLEAR. HIGHS 26 TO 31. LOWS 5 TO 10.
THANKSGIVING DAY SUNNY. HIGHS 36 TO 41.
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BASE104
climber
An Oil Field
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Nov 19, 2010 - 09:40am PT
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OK. Hanford has Yosemite in their forecast area. Mammoth one came from the Reno office. So this one is for Yosemite.
CAZ096-200000- SIERRA NEVADA FROM YOSEMITE TO KINGS CANYON- 335 AM PST FRI NOV 19 2010
...WINTER STORM WARNING IN EFFECT FROM 10 PM THIS EVENING TO 10 PM PST SUNDAY...
TODAY MOSTLY CLOUDY. A 20 PERCENT CHANCE OF SHOWERS IN THE AFTERNOON. NEAR THE CREST...A 20 PERCENT CHANCE OF SNOW SHOWERS IN THE AFTERNOON. WINDY. SNOW LEVEL 7500 FEET. HIGHS 44 TO 54 AT 5000 FEET...36 TO 46 AT 8000 FEET. SOUTHWEST WINDS 25 TO 35 MPH. GUSTS UP TO 60 MPH IN THE MORNING INCREASING TO 80 MPH IN THE AFTERNOON.
TONIGHT...SNOW SHOWERS SNOW SHOWERS NEAR THE CREST. WINDY. SNOW ACCUMULATION UP TO 13 INCHES. SNOW LEVEL 6000 FEET. LOWS 29 TO 37 AT 5000 FEET...17 TO 27 AT 8000 FEET. SOUTHWEST WINDS 25 TO 35 MPH WITH GUSTS TO AROUND 70 MPH.
SATURDAY...SNOW AND RAIN...SNOW NEAR THE CREST. BREEZY COLDER. SNOW ACCUMULATION UP TO 16 INCHES. SNOW LEVEL 4500 FEET. HIGHS 29 TO 37 AT 5000 FEET...19 TO 29 AT 8000 FEET. SOUTHWEST WINDS AROUND 25 MPH WITH GUSTS TO AROUND 55 MPH IN THE MORNING.
SATURDAY NIGHT...SNOW SHOWERS. WINDY COLDER. SNOW ACCUMULATION UP TO 21 INCHES. LOWS 22 TO 32 AT 5000 FEET...10 TO 20 AT 8000 FEET. SOUTHWEST WINDS 25 TO 35 MPH WITH GUSTS TO AROUND 80 MPH.
SUNDAY...SNOW WINDY. SNOW ACCUMULATION UP TO 28 INCHES. HIGHS 23 TO 31 AT 5000 FEET...13 TO 23 AT 8000 FEET. SOUTHWEST WINDS 25 TO 30 MPH WITH GUSTS TO AROUND 55 MPH.
SUNDAY NIGHT AND MONDAY MOSTLY CLOUDY WITH A 50 PERCENT CHANCE OF SNOW SHOWERS. WINDY. LOWS 19 TO 29 AT 5000 FEET...8 TO 18 AT 8000 FEET. HIGHS 29 TO 37 AT 5000 FEET...22 TO 32 AT 8000 FEET.
MONDAY NIGHT AND TUESDAY MOSTLY CLOUDY. SLIGHT CHANCE OF SNOW SHOWERS. LOWS 18 TO 28 AT 5000 FEET...7 TO 17 AT 8000 FEET. HIGHS 33 TO 41 AT 5000 FEET...24 TO 34 AT 8000 FEET.
TUESDAY NIGHT...MOSTLY CLOUDY. LOWS 21 TO 31 AT 5000 FEET 11 TO 21 AT 8000 FEET.
WEDNESDAY...MOSTLY SUNNY. HIGHS 36 TO 44 AT 5000 FEET 29 TO 39 AT 8000 FEET.
WEDNESDAY NIGHT AND THANKSGIVING DAY MOSTLY CLEAR. LOWS 26 TO 36 AT 5000 FEET...18 TO 28 AT 8000 FEET. HIGHS 42 TO 52 AT 5000 FEET...37 TO 47 AT 8000 FEET.
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BASE104
climber
An Oil Field
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Nov 19, 2010 - 09:44am PT
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This is the site that all of the weather weenies use:
http://www.stormeyes.org/pietrycha/ca.html
I need to get them the phone number for the forecast office in Hanford. They could just call them and probably get someone to actually talk to them. We did it all of the time.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
wussing off the topout on Roadside Attraction
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Nov 19, 2010 - 10:41am PT
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So four days of storms to sit out, once you frig up to the back of the Dawn Roof and place a bivy anchor, followed by a couple days of berg-frisbee and thawing and then how much sitting around and waiting for the seeps to quit running?
That's a rough way to spend a week. And what exactly is the likelihood of dry conditions after the storm passes?
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JMacomber
Sport climber
Minneapolis, MN
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Nov 19, 2010 - 10:51am PT
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Look guys, if it's leaving you a little weak in the guts, listen to your viscera. If you feel bad about it come down, it will be there next year, and the year after, and the year after that. The rocks not going anywhere.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Nov 19, 2010 - 11:00am PT
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When you are pushing your limits, it's an adventure, even if you are on a toprope
Exactly. A noob on tr in a gym can be as gripped as a pro on a solo grade VII fa. To each his own.
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Adamame
Big Wall climber
Santa Cruz
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Nov 19, 2010 - 11:03am PT
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I would have thought Staying down low around pitches 10-12 looked safer then Wino Tower. I've watched the falling ice before and have noticed it can happen for many days/weeks after a storm depending on how much snow is deposited on top. I think the project is doomed for the year, this storm could make it the wettest November on record. Wino looks like a death trap to me.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nov 19, 2010 - 11:08am PT
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I know what it feels like sitting out a protracted storm in the mountains. The mind and body atrophy to a point and I was never looking at the prospect of having to send 5.14.
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WBraun
climber
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Nov 19, 2010 - 11:18am PT
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They have ropes fixed to the ground.
Why everyone so worried?
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BooDawg
Social climber
Polynesian Paradise
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Nov 19, 2010 - 11:50am PT
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They have ropes fixed to the ground.
Why everyone so worried?
Since I'm heading toward Yosemite today, having lurked this thread since its inception, and having done the Nose under winter, tho not storm, conditions, I am amazed at how many people are concerned for these guys. I don't think it's so much worry as concern about the outcome and most people's desires that this thread doesn't become one of condolences. Most of us understand the choices we've all made between the desire for adventure and our survival instincts. And most of us know the consequences, on both sides, of having to make those choices and the possible outcomes of each choice.
Yesterday, when I'd check into this thread I couldn't help but put myself in the same place that Tom describes upthread with the huge hunks of ice roaring down the Captain like a freight train. Having stood there myself, I felt like it was a war zone. Besides crackin' skulls, even if they have hardhats, the crashing ice can cut ropes as well...
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Nov 19, 2010 - 11:53am PT
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Tommy Caldwell is the man, he will get it done one way or another.
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cleo
Social climber
Berkeley, CA
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Nov 19, 2010 - 11:54am PT
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Well, if Werner's not worried...
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Nov 19, 2010 - 12:01pm PT
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Rain has started 12 hours early in Santa Cruz, but it looks on the satellite maps like we have things forming locally. Interestingly, looking at the GOES weather loop, there are missiles going off and course correcting all over the place off the coast. Too bad with all these clouds we can't see them and do some calculations.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nov 19, 2010 - 12:03pm PT
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A lot of monday morning quarterbacking going on. If those two can't make the right decision, who can?
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Nov 19, 2010 - 12:32pm PT
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Wow this is kinda heartbreaking. So much work to prep for the all-free continuous ground-up ascent. But having to try again next year isn't the worst thing that could happen. I don't think they can hang out in any exposed location with the barrage that is coming.
They are still far away from the dawn roof. Too bad you can't fit a ledge behind Texas flake.
What about hanging out in the alcove? It's not too far off route, but it's really close to the ground. They wouldn't have to come off El Cap and it would be easy for people to bring them extra provisions, but is that defeating the spirit of a continous ascent?
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Nov 19, 2010 - 12:32pm PT
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Rapping off El Cap in 80mph wind gusts sounds like a blast!
Ps, I thought Tommy was married to Beth...who's this Becca girl?
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