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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Sep 25, 2012 - 12:23am PT
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Yes....exploration,,,,the unknown.
They're not "other people's routes."
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2 l l
Sport climber
Rancho Verga, CA
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Sep 25, 2012 - 12:34am PT
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Pigeon Cliffs
Susanville, CA good post.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Sep 25, 2012 - 12:59am PT
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Todd Gordon, you hit 1000 already, right?
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Sep 25, 2012 - 01:32am PT
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yeah;....got to 1000 last year;......We found a couple more FAs last week;.....Whispering Chickens (5.7) and Chee Spurger (5.10+)......new routes are sort of like ants;...they are everywhere.....
Here's a few more to add to the list;......
364. Stark Naked 5.8 R. Ashbachar
365. 5 Barmaids in my Pocket 5.10b/c F. Bentwood, T. Tech, M. Syneck, G. Epperson
366. Miss Weiner Tot 5.10d G. Epperson, Beth
367. Alien Head 5.9+ B. Pinar, Greg, R. Ashbachar
368. Devil's Bacon 5.10+ T. Tech
369. Candyass 5.5 T. Tech, Will, F. Bentwood, James
370. Leaving Las Vegas 5.10- F. Bentwood, Pete, T. Tech, Blitzo
371. Laffy Taffy 5.7 T. Tech, Pete, Frances, G.Barerra, R. Barerra, D. Cox.
372. Holly Hipkiss 5.8 T. Tech
373. Va Jayjay 5.9 T. Tech, S. Swan
374. Funky Fresh (5.8) Wendall, Turk, T. Tech, Resa, Audrey, Marine, Will
375. The Hammer 5.8 Joyce, Wendall, L. Leichtfuss, tall guy
376. Tucker's dirty climb 5.8 (Rattlesnake) Wendall, Turk, Resa, Audrey, Marine, Will
377. Starbonne 5.8 F. Bentwood, G. Epperson, T. Tech
378. Angel's Desire 5.9 T. Tech, Turk, Resa, Audrey , Wendall, Marine
379. The Chick Magnet 5.9 R. Ashbachar, F. Bentwood
380. The Nee Nee 5.10- T. Tech, Pete
381. Horny Goat Weed (5.10-) T. Tech, G. Epperson, F. Bentwood
382. Beatin' Around the Bush (5.6) T. Tech, Teri, Pete, Kattie, Wendall
383. The Golden Parachute 5.9 T. Tech.
384. See Mop Who 5.10- K. Burnham
385. Dr. Dolittle 5.10- T. Pinar, J. Bridwell, T. Tech, R. Ashbachar, Peter
386. Manichean Jacobin 5.10+ Wendall Smith
387. Invisible Baby Jones 5.10+ Tucker Tech, Will Cass., G.Epperson, Tricia, F. Bentwood, R. Ashbacher, Peter
388. The Kracken 5.10- Tucker Tech, Will Cassalaro, G. Epperson, Tricia, Frank Bentwood, Rhesa Ashbachar, Peter
389. Honeycomb (5.10) Tucker Tech, Mary Moser, Frank Bentwood, Cody Dolnick
390. Sonic and the Hot Dog Water (5.5) Tucker Tech
391. Weapons of Mass Consumption (5.4) Tucker Tech, Tony/Vince/Marion Schiarelli, Cody Dolnick
392. Cougar.com (5.9) Tucker Tech, Tony/Vince/Mario Schiarelli, Cody Dolnick
393. Eine Dicke Frau (5.9) Tucker Tech, German Boy
394. Too Far from Water (5.7) Tucker Tech, Tricia Clay
395. Love Nugget (5.9) Tucker Tech
396. Respect The Pouch (5.9) Tucker Tech, Cody Dolnick
397. Doctor Robert Titzer (5.7) Tucker Tech, Cody Dolnick
398. Sugartits (5.9) Tucker Tech, Cody Dolnick
399. Swink (5.7) Tucker Tech, Will/Stephanie Cassalaro, Max Heinz, Max friend, Cody Dolnick
400. Hooters (5.9) Tucker Tech, Tim Pinar
401. Gym Bag (5.8) Tucker Tech, Tim Pinar, Gina/Rich Barrera
402. Have Another Round (5.7) Dave Cox, Justin Sagle,
403. It's All Gravy (5.8) Tony Moser, Mary Moser, Tucker Tech, Tom/Liz, Wendell Smith, Dave
404. Gobbler Traverse ( 5.8) Tony Moser, Mary Moser, Tucker Tech, Tom/Loz, Wendell Smith , Dave
405. Uncle Blazac (5.9) Mary Moser, Dave, Tucker Tech, Wendell Smith
406. General Delivery 5.7 Tucker Tech, Dave
407. Bologna Ponie 5.9 Tucker Tech, Rich Bararra, Wendall Smith, Cody Dolnick, Kurt Sanders,
408. Montana 5.10b Tucker Tech, Montana Couple, Rich Bararra, Kurt Sanders, Cody Dolnick, Wendall Smith , Gina Barrera
409. Wendall 5.6 corner Wendall Smith, Gina Bararra, Tucker Tech,
410. Montana 5.5 crack Montana Couple, Gina Bararra, Tucker Tech
411. Frank's Sandwich (5.10+) Tucker Tech, Kelly Vaught, Greg Epperson, Todd Gordon
412. Flanders 5.8 Sarah Alexander, Josh Flannagan 4-11
413. Rodeo Doggie 5.10b Kelly Vaught, Frank Bentwood, Tucker Tech 5-11
414. Over and Out 5.10- Kelly Vaught, Frank Bentwood, Rebecca Russel, Tucker Tech, Wendall Smith 6-11
415. The Golden One (5.10) Kelly Vaught, Frank Bentwood, Wendall Smith, Tucker Tech, Rebecca Russel 6-11
416. Wika (5.9+) Kelly Vaught, Frank Bentwood, Rebecca Russel, Wendall Smith, Tucker Tech 6-11
418. The Baboon (5.8) Tucker Tech, Wayne Burns, Tim Pinar, Sam, Kelly Vaught 7-11
419. Gerber (5.7) Tucker Tech, Rebecca Russell 7-11
420. Asshat (5.9) Tucker Tech, Rebecca Russell 7-11
421. Wax (5.10+) Kelly Vaught, Miriam Taylor, Shelby Beardsley
422. Hump-a-mania (5.8 ) Tucker Tech, Kelly Vaught, Dino, Miriam Taylor, Tim Pinar
423. Dino's Crack (5.8) Dino Blanco, Mirian Taylor, Tucker Tech, Tim Pinar
424. Space Shuffle (5.10b), Kelly Vaught, Tucker Tech, Miriam Taylor, Rebeca Russel,
425. I'm With Stupid (5.10b) Kelly Vaught, Tucker Tech, Dino Banco, Shelby Beardsley, Frank Bentwood, Cody Dolnick
426. Paco (5.9) Kelly Vaught, Tucker Tech
427. Medicinal Marajuana (5.8) Kelly Vaught, Tucker Tech
428. Blood Bath (5.10-) Dino Blanco, Kelly Vaught, Tucker Tech
429 Nerve Damage (5.10-) Dino Banco, Frank Bentwood, Nick, Tucker Tech
430. Brain Tumor (5.10-) Greg Epperson, Kelly Vaught, Frank Bentwood, Tim Pinar, Tucker Tech, Nick
431. Going Dutch (5.10b) Tucker Tech, Kelly Vaught
432. Cats at the Door (5.9) Rebeca Russel, Larry Tsang, Tucker Tech, Kelly Vaught, Frank Bentwood
433. Fried Monkey Butt (5.10-) Tucker Tech, Rebeca Russel, Tony Yeary, Steven Powell
434. Boing Loin (5.10b) Tucker Tech, Frank Bentwood, Andrew Jones, Shelby Beardsley, Kelly Vaught , Taylor Diel
435. Quat (5.9) Tucker Tech, Taylor Deal, Mark,
436. Honeysuckle Pickle Bear (5.10b) Kelly Vaught, Mark, Tucker Tech, Alley Welsh, Frank Bentwood,
437. Showers with Dad (5.10b) Tucker Tech, Kelly Vaught
438. Hillbilly Handfishin' (5.11) Todd Gordon
439. Squidbillies (5.9) Tucker Tech, Greg Epperson, Kelly Vaught, Shelby Beardsley
440. Taylor's Climb (Conquistador) (5.5) Taylor Diel, Tucker Tech, Ron Gomez, Andy Gorell, Kelly Vaught, Frank Bentwood, Ron Gomez, Matt
441. I Buried Roberta's Goat (5.8) John Long, Tucker Tech, Greg Epperson, Erin Guinn, Shelby Beardsley, Andrew Jones
442. Bee's Dick (5.8) John Long, Tucker Tech, Greg Epperson, Erin Guinn, Shelby Beardsley, Andrew Jones
443. Muffin Top (5.5) F.S.
444. Milkin' the Hamster (5.6) T. Tech, Wendall Smith , Riuchi, Hiroshi
445. Bedang (5.7) T.Tech, A.Jones, S. Beardsley, L.Murry, A. Gorril
446. Pap Pap Pace (5.7) T. Tech, A. Gorill
447. Groin (5.7) T. Tech, Michelle
448. Raid (5.8) T. Tech
449. Cz. Prison for Politicians (5.8) T.Tech, R. Bedan, Radim's friend
450. Loveumba (5.9) T.Tech, T. Madrid, Nick
451. Mighty Mitt (5.10a) T.Tech, Kelly Vaught
452. Glory Hole (5.10c) T.Tech, R. Russell, S. Beardsley, A. Jones, Marine pastor
453. Thunderwood (5.10) K.Vaught, F. Bentwood, T. Tech, G. Epperson
454. Whitney Houston Crack (5.9) T. Tech, W.Smith, Riauchi, Hiroshi
455. Smoked Salmon (5.9) T.Tech, Riauchi, Hiroshi, W. Smith
456. Narrow Minded (5.10b) T. Tech, A. Gorill
457. Bumpit (5.10) T. Tech, W. Smith, A. Gorill, K. Vaught, F. Bentwood, S. Beardsley, A. Jones
458. Polyamorous (5.10) T. Tech, W. Smith, T. Yeary
I like to climb......
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Guangzhou
Trad climber
Asia, Indonesia, East Java
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Sep 25, 2012 - 01:54am PT
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Chiloe: Writing history in guidebooks and having it rediscovered in the 2000 editions. I have to wonder if the Internet and modern communication has made that more possible.
I wrote a small guidebook in the late 90s, finidng the history was extremely difficult. There were only a couple of route developers who put up most of the routes and they had move to other parts of the country. Took me a few month track two of them down for details. Once I had those two, the third was easier to find. Still, the whole process was started by mail, thanks to postal service forwarding service some letters arrived. From mail cam phone conversations.
Eventually three of us got together at an area we all wanted to climb for a week. We climbed and talked about the crag they developed.
Today, I think I could have tracked everyone down much quicker, but even with modern technology and the internet, tracing people is still quite difficult.
A few years back I wrote a guidebook to climbing on Okinawa. I had established roughly 100 routes across the island, new the main developer of routes prior to me, he had roughly 100 routes done too. (not all were included in the guide for various reasons) Other routes, we could find vague references as to who or when they were put up.
Several times I found myself on a first ascent only to discover some rusted piton halfway up a pitch. Some pitons I was able to trace, others will never be known.
To the original question, I guess I have over 500 routes put up now. I've never really counted or kept track. One partner I had counted what I did in Okinawa and then China and told me.
Not sure how many I want to put up. From a first ascent point of view, I've been very lucky, I keep relocating to places that have untouched rock. Of course, it would be nice to go somewhere where other climbers did the work before me on my next move.
Some of my FA are shot, 15 meters sport routes, other are long 15 pitch trad or aid routes. Most are somewhere in between. All were fun to establish and I had some great partners helping. (Read very patient partners)
Cheers
Eman
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Sep 25, 2012 - 02:02am PT
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Eman....
You said it all.
Happy climbing.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Sep 25, 2012 - 02:21am PT
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Climbed a bunch of worthless looking things this summer - all FAs. It was fun.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Sep 25, 2012 - 10:16am PT
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All of my first ascents were scraped away by the last Ice Age.
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steveA
Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
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Sep 25, 2012 - 10:26am PT
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Jim,
Good one!
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Sep 25, 2012 - 08:41pm PT
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My first ascents:
North Rib of Mount Dana, Sierra Nevada, III. 5.4, 1982
Pillar Route, Petite Capucin, Sierra Nevada, II, 5.10a, 1979
North Face of the Hound's Tooth, Bugaboos, III, 5.4, 1982
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Sep 25, 2012 - 10:49pm PT
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I did one first ascent that wasn't scraped away by Donini's last ice age. I'm quite proud of it; it's called Ass Of Dog about 5.3d in JT i think.
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splitter
Trad climber
Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
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Sep 25, 2012 - 10:56pm PT
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donini - all my first ascents were scraped away by the last Ice Age.
This one still remains; FA Torre Egger ('76) with John Bragg!
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Gary
Social climber
Monza by the streetlight
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Sep 25, 2012 - 11:35pm PT
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Tough Shiites, 5.7. Not much of a route, but it was fun. It's always windy at the arete, which is the real crux, sometimes it is really blowing.
Over on mountainproject, somebody followed the line of bolts and claimed a FA.
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wilbeer
Mountain climber
honeoye falls,ny,sawdust does not work like chalk
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Sep 26, 2012 - 11:11am PT
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damn slr,awesome,i hope you skied dana
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sac
Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
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Sep 26, 2012 - 08:24pm PT
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Found this crag... and had some real fun.
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