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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jan 24, 2012 - 08:17pm PT
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Yeah, but that was some fun! Wasn't it Daph?
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Daphne
Trad climber
Mill Valley, CA
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Jan 24, 2012 - 08:23pm PT
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It was the kind of fun that is fun afterward but not during :)
I will always remember sipping drips from the gully drainage on the interminable descent, so dehydrated the thought of giardia didn't mean anything to me.
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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Jan 24, 2012 - 08:28pm PT
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like squirrels, you are,
climbing the stone walls of the godfarm.
a fine adventure exceeding your expectations,
good tale.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jan 24, 2012 - 08:47pm PT
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Finding water on top was cool!.
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
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Jan 24, 2012 - 11:08pm PT
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Gotta love the Old SKOOL 5.7++++!!!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Apr 16, 2013 - 12:12am PT
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Peter Haan posted Plate 10 from Roper's Green Guide:
and I have tried to retrace that line on a composite of the xrez view of Washington Column:
It's not too hard to see that the pitch above the forest (above Lunch Ledge), the Great Chimney, has a bend in it to the left, where there is vegetation, to a parallel slot...
anyone have an opinion?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Apr 16, 2013 - 12:32am PT
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here is page 233 from the Meyers & Reid 1987 guide... the line is straight and the finish is more to the right... also did they get "Lunch Ledge" right? seems like this was higher in Roper's drawing...
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john hansen
climber
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Apr 16, 2013 - 12:44am PT
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Regarding Ferret Leggers post a bit back...
Great story, but could one put in a piton on the first 10 or 15 feet of the rappel and and clip one of the ropes? At least then if the rurp pulled you might not go all the way.
Maybe even the guy who went down first could do this while you still have some kind of upper belay.
I guess it could be interesting for the second to pass this piece.. a prussik above and below would work.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Apr 16, 2013 - 01:18am PT
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http://www.xrez.com/yose_proj/yose_deepzoom/index.html
and then pick which vantage point, and keep zooming in. You will see all detail required. In this case The Column.
I stress that the last pitch of the Direct Route has a number of possibilities, all climbable, but some at a 5.8 or higher level. It pays to really look at what is going on on this last piece of ground.
Once when RR and I were unroping the route and So. Dome, RR above me per usual, he took this uncanny, devious line through this summit jumble and I remember it as less than 5.6. Since then, I haven't been able to recreate the line we took, but I remember going up a dihedral and exiting off left on a sharp horizontal crack (as footholds) around a corner where it diminished even further.
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kaholatingtong
Trad climber
Nevada City
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Apr 16, 2013 - 01:26am PT
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i like your style, mucci.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Apr 16, 2013 - 01:48am PT
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I think this is one of the threads where I knew Mucci was nutz in the right way, and that was ok by me.
Now he's got 3 LBC Walls.
Stacked!
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briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
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Apr 16, 2013 - 02:00am PT
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Now he's got 3 LBC Walls.
Munge I think some second ascents are to be done soon...
or maybe we talk are way into joining one
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Apr 16, 2013 - 02:16am PT
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Boom! That was a great read, from all directions!
Four awesome stories, a little poetry and adventure in full force!
Killer!
Nice overlay photos too
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 16, 2013 - 02:26am PT
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Just read this whole thread as well, so many good tales of adventure! Mucci, awesome Tr! Karl's story is insane, wow! Lots of good insight on this thread, great stuff.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 16, 2013 - 08:00am PT
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Fine adventure!!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Apr 19, 2013 - 01:03am PT
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Seconds?
Prolly too late for that.
But I might be into one of them. I gotta see the Tortilla Chip of Death!
but not in the summer, no damn way!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Apr 19, 2013 - 04:00am PT
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Here's my best photo - evening light from high up on the Apron.
The lighting is key because I believe the Great Chimney and its Chockstone Belay are visible.
Based on this, Ed, your xrez overlay is very good.
3 edits:
1. jog left and then straight up to Lunch Ledge instead of diagonal left
2. keep straight in the Great Chimney - don't jog left (? not sure - see next post with xRez photo)
3. I'm not sure about the finish above the 3rd class forest - apparently nobody is!
And you are correct, Meyers and Reid 1987 has Lunch Ledge marked too low.
Note: I haven't done the route, so there might be mistakes in the above.
But it seems consistent with Josh's topo and my previous overlay.
Roper notes that many people get lost on the first pitch above Lunch Ledge -
instead of the left facing corner, "climb an inconspicuous crack system 25 feet to the left"
which becomes the decomposed Fat Man Chimney.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 19, 2013 - 12:45pm PT
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That's it Clint, right on the money.
My topo leans a bit to the right, but as you climb this route it feel like that due to the wandering.
We gauged our location by how far to the right we were from the line of demarcation.
I want to do the charlie brown corner var next time!@
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Norwegian
Trad climber
the tip of god's middle finger
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Apr 19, 2013 - 03:45pm PT
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i too, set a personal standard to
be merely perfect.
we've both, overachieved mucci.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Apr 19, 2013 - 04:11pm PT
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There is a lot to be said for being young, strong, ambitious, naive, and just a bit.....stupid!
Hear, hear, Michael! What a story!
Clint, I'm not sure, because it's been a while I last did the route, but I remember going left and under a chockstone/tunnel before the final Class-3 forest. I see something that looks like that a bit to the left of your marked line. I know it's possible to go up that squeeze chimney (because I've done that, too), but it's far easier to make the detour left.
John
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