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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 20, 2011 - 03:11pm PT
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That old ACC , BCMC, VOC crew were a total bunch of characters, eh tami?
I remember the sudden change in my appreciation of some of the climbing during that time when my ex-father-in-law told me about his trip to Garibaldi. I was thinking "Yeah, yeah, I've hiked up that thing too, big deal," until he got to the part about taking the train from Vancouver...
Whole different thing. A multi-day adventure climb instead of the pleasant and easy day it is now. Limited information, can't drive to the trailhead, probably plenty of bushwacking, primitive clothing and equipment... And that's for the easy stuff nearby. Just think of what is was like attempting the remote peaks.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 20, 2011 - 03:37pm PT
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For a long time around here, the only "access issue" that usually mattered was whether or not there was a logging road to somewhere in the vicinity of the peak du jour. A somewhat driveable road to Squamish only appeared in the late 1950s, after all.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jun 20, 2011 - 06:17pm PT
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RR, definitely winter lines still to be done
I was sick in bed with flu during a planned winter ascent of this line. The rest of the team bailed after about 5 pitches of steep spindrift with negligible pro up the gully left of the summer line
JH, ditto
Some K Barnard routes waiting for a second ascent.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 20, 2011 - 06:37pm PT
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Kobus was a Mad Thing.
And possessed of the strength of ten ordinary mortals. Anybody know what he's up to these days?
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Jun 20, 2011 - 06:44pm PT
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Kobus is on the faculty at University of Arizona; he's been there for 10 years or so. His list of ascents is absolutely amazing.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 20, 2011 - 06:51pm PT
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"Kobus, what are you doing" my girlfriend asked me. There I was, kneeling on the floor in the middle of the room, with a lighted clock in my hand. I answered, so she reports, "I am moving to above the high water line". Another night I was in a tomb-like crevice. Most of me was back from the trip, but part of me took weeks to come home.
The start of one of his wonderful stories...
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Jun 20, 2011 - 07:05pm PT
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How do these compare to the Cialis Peaks?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 21, 2011 - 11:22am PT
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Routes in the Chehalis are long and hard without any need for help.
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Jun 21, 2011 - 06:12pm PT
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Anatomically speaking, wouldn't the Cialis Peak be a gendarme?
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jun 23, 2011 - 12:01am PT
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So the highest peak in the Chehalis is actually Robertson, pretty obscure, back end of TipellaCreek.
First climbed in an unusual February via snowshoes by Doug Kasian et al.
So Serl and I hooked up to go do it. Got to the end of the Tipella road and one of the tires on his rig went flat. Spare was held on with a chain which has rusted shut. We spent 3 hrs lying on our backs in the dirt sawing thru the chain with a bastard file Serl just happened to have in his truck in case he needed to touch up an ice tool, and got the f*#k out of there.
When we were actually successful on the second ascent, while descending we had to do a 50m overhanging rappel to get down out of the goddamn bush cirque and back into the slide alder. The alder is actually one of the best parts of the approach, there are all these paths under the canopy that you can walk through if you duck down and hunch.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 23, 2011 - 12:47am PT
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The alder is actually one of the best parts of the approach, there are all these paths under the canopy that you can walk through if you duck down and hunch.
Man, you shouldn't be giving away all the secrets. Keep talking like this and pretty soon these mountains will be overrun with Californians...
Not.
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dugillian
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Jun 23, 2011 - 12:52am PT
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A 5 year old is the only person who would even mildly enjoy walking through those friggin' alder jungles.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jun 23, 2011 - 01:50am PT
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I once ventured into the Chehalis with Bruce Fairley. The first day was spent desperately bushwhacking thru serious nastiness. The second we climbed something new on the left side of Ratney, and had an unplanned bivi on the summit. Bruce remarked that we were now supposed to be back in Vancouver. Thanks for that, Bruce. Day 3 started with many raps in the fog and rain, and a slog down to the creek. To avoid the bush we walked the rest of the way out down the creek, but it was still dark when we reached the car. Bruce wanted to put a photo of me walking the creek on the back cover of his SW guide, but the publisher felt it would create a negative impression of the area.
Bruce Fairley made several significant FAs in this area.
HM.
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dugillian
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Jun 23, 2011 - 02:14am PT
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You are right Tami....We lived in SoCal for her first 5 years. She enjoyed wandering around and scrambling the rocks in the desert at Joshua Tree. We moved back here and the bugs freak the hell out of her.
She does though love your comics---Must be something about that truly Canadian sense of humour.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jun 24, 2011 - 01:23pm PT
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Fraser Valley bump
The Pillar of Pi in 2001, before the rockfall.
Interesting feature near Hope
Sprung Cocks Erect avoids the choss on lower Springbok Arete. You can apparently just link the first two pitches with a 60m if you start when there is still snow around (snowline was level with first bolt when this shot was taken).
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 24, 2011 - 02:14pm PT
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here's a video clip of more typical conditions
Now that brings back some fond memories.
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paulb
climber
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For what its worth, this thread prompted my first trip into the range this past weekend.
Walked in Friday and climbed the south side of Viennese under sunny skies on saturday. Enjoyable climbing in an amazing setting. Quite the exposure on the summit. We awoke to steady rain at the bivy at a little before midnight on saturday night. Rain continued into the morning and made for a mildly miserable walk out on sunday. If not for the wet walk-out, our trip might have gone too comfortably to qualify as a true alpine outing.
You guys have me excited to try something on Bardean later in the season.
BK, when are you going to divulge the true location of your new secret wall??
I've had a lot of fun wading through this and other threads detailing BC ranges as of late. Inspiring to say the least. Keep the stories coming.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 4, 2011 - 09:18pm PT
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For what its worth, this thread prompted my first trip into the range this past weekend.
So you say, but where are the pictures?
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