Climber dies on Yellow Spur

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Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Dec 16, 2015 - 06:31pm PT
I wouldn't have wanted to do this pitch with a single. After this pic it
zigzagged all over the place taking advantage of what manky pro there was,
and none of it was great. With a single you would only have been able to
utilize about half the available placements and probably would still have
had horrendous rope drag.

healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Dec 16, 2015 - 10:56pm PT
Yellow Spur has this rope cutting potential in multiple spots on the route where you go over ledges or turn corners. It happened last in 2010 on the second pitch. Some routes around the country are just that way even though they get climbed thousands of times. Kind makes the case for having a couple of unicore ropes in one's quiver for such routes or for when one feels the necessity for doubles (I see Beal makes bot 8.1 and 8.6 doubles).
LOWERme

Trad climber
NM
Dec 16, 2015 - 11:23pm PT
I never used a belay device.

Word

Let a friend use my new lead line on Hair Lip (Suicide). She fell at the crux and sliced halfway through a Bluewater 11 mil, about 4 ft. out from the figure 8 tie-in.

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