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MH2
climber
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Mar 25, 2010 - 06:05pm PT
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How 'bout a Greg Markov, aka D'Artagnan, bump?
I like it.
I was having some trouble figuring out what had happened to us on a Markov route once, until an inspiration came to look in the phone book. The man answered and explained that they had done the climb in indifferent weather, weren't sure just which summit they had got to, and it happened to get recorded wrong in at least 2 sources: Beckey and the Mountaineers Intermediate Climbs.
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MisterE
Social climber
Across Town From Easy Street
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Mar 25, 2010 - 08:11pm PT
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Reilly - that picture reminded me of our trip report of "Der Diehedral", a 6-pitch variation on Dragontail:
Der Diehedral TR
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mastadon
Trad climber
quaking has-been
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Mar 25, 2010 - 09:01pm PT
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Mr Reilly Sir,
What year did you make your clean ascent attempt on HD with The Count????
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Mar 25, 2010 - 09:39pm PT
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Sir Donald,
In no way should it be construed as a clean attempt. His
Highness and minion were just trying to get up the sucker.
It was only when the Nat Geo came out that we realized we'd
had an unwitting brush with infamy. We were up there early
that spring and those guys were in the fall if I recall.
When the snow started falling after the pendulum any reluctance
to reach for the hammer rather melted away although I really
don't recall using but 7 or 8 pins. By the time we hit Big Sandy
we renamed it Big Snowy. We could have used snowshoes on Thangsgiving.
We were from Seattle so it was just another day out, eh?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mar 26, 2010 - 10:02am PT
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I'll be having burgers in Gustav's on Saturday evening 6/5 and plan to climb for the next three days, I hope to see some of you there.
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Chief
climber
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Mar 26, 2010 - 10:35am PT
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Jim,
Confirming same plan.
Probably won't climb with recent RC repair. (I knew there was a reason I hated bouldering)
Will hike, hold a rope, pound beer and wax nostalgic.
Again, killer bluegrass festival starts the following Thursday at the Chelan Fairground I think.
PB
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mar 26, 2010 - 10:46am PT
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Great! I'll have Jim McCarthy with me and maybe Mark Kroese.
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PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
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Mar 26, 2010 - 11:49am PT
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Jim
I would like to show up.
I could give Chief some support and pack extra beer. I could provide a rather solid anchor, and I fear no belay.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mar 26, 2010 - 11:50am PT
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Phil, I would love to see you. I saw your son in the Creek a few days ago. Gotta run to the airport.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Mar 26, 2010 - 05:56pm PT
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Ha. I think I'll show up, too. And if I do some climbing, it'll make everyone else look really good.
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EdBannister
Mountain climber
CA
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Mar 26, 2010 - 11:57pm PT
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on topic bump
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 27, 2010 - 01:11am PT
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I'll see if I can make it. Somebody should let Rick and Dave know, too.
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Chief
climber
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Mar 27, 2010 - 01:34am PT
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Cool, it's petty much official if Rick and Anders are on board.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 27, 2010 - 01:36am PT
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I wanna go, I wanna go. I'll just lurk in the background and pretend to take pictures...
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 27, 2010 - 01:38am PT
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I could maybe bring the CD from my presentation at VIMFF, with photos (many already somewhere around here), stories, and the 1975 Sentry Box video. The latter, at least, would be worth showing, and it'd probably be OK with Dave and Dave. In fact, maybe they'd be interested in coming...
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TMO
Trad climber
Puyallup, WA
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BUMP! For a GREAT thread. Keep the stories coming please.
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PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
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OK, I have a story.
It's not a Leavenworth BITD story. I didn't start climbing in Leavenworth until the early 80's. But I did know many of the Northwest climbers who annually made the pilgrimage to Yosemite in the late 60's - early 70's. Al Givler and Mark Weigelt certainly stand out. Both had incredible drives to accomplish climbs.
Mark was an amazingly strong climber. Like many of us in those days, he was financially challenged, especially late in the rock climbing season. Thus when he went up on Half Dome's NW face in October with Hans(?) all they could afford for bivouac food was two loafs of white bread and a jar of peanut butter. They made what looked like enough peanut butter sandwiches (minus the jelly) to last the 2 1/2 days it usually took to climb the route. Unforunately, hauling across the pedulium on the Robin's traverse they busted their water bottles, forcing them to finish the route without water and unable to eat the sandwiches with dry mouths.
As a group the Northwest climbers were a fun bunch to climb, camp, and trip with.
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mazamarick
Trad climber
WA
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Al Givler was an amazing climber who taught a climbing class I took in 72. At the time Schurman Rock at Camp Long in West Seattle and the Wedgewood boulder were where everyone honed their skills. I remember watching Weigelt and Givler floating up stuff that seemed way too hard at the time in Kronhofers', Robbin's shoes and RD's! On any given summer night you'd meet just about anyone who climbed rock in Seattle.
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