Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
|
|
|
May 14, 2009 - 11:19am PT
|
I guess it's just me, but I've never have been too impressed with the rock in the Portal area. There's lots of it, and it sure looks good in pictures and from the road, but up close, it's kinda chossy and there's lots of blank (unclimbable)rock. And with the exception of Bony Fingers, there's not too many crack climbs. Am I missing something?
What are the best routes? The one's I've tried were pretty grainy, and serious to lead, but that was 10 or so years ago.
And there's those great big crags by Olancha, same kind of rock as the Portal though.
|
|
rbolton
Social climber
The home for...
|
|
|
May 14, 2009 - 02:10pm PT
|
Ummmm...What henny said.
Really, the rock is chossy, camping is almost nonexistant, the bugs are starting to come on right about now, Hensel's routes are all death traps, the approaches are murder, and the cabin owners are ALL psychos. Think Deliverance. Really. Nothing to see here...move along, move along.
|
|
Fluoride
Trad climber
Hollywood, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2009 - 02:16pm PT
|
Great pics F10!!
Fred Beckey did the FA of Premier Buttress back in the day when he was working at a paper company here in LA in the early 70's. He came up on weekends and bagged those routes.
He did the FA's of some classic Portal stuff and he also named the buttresses. I asked him why Premier and he said "well, it's the first buttress coming into the Portal." I think El Segundo Buttress was named after his partner's residence at the time.
|
|
Fluoride
Trad climber
Hollywood, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2009 - 02:26pm PT
|
Oh and Rob don't worry, Marty's new guidebook put this all out there so the can of worms is opened.
But the masses aren't going to make the drive and effort. Runouts, altitude, the unknown...it's only going to be a destination for those of us who want it.
|
|
CJanet
climber
Los Angeles, CA
|
|
|
May 14, 2009 - 03:23pm PT
|
Is anyone interested and available for climbing Memorial Day weekend, Friday through Monday? I'd like to drive up from LA and check out the climbing at Whitney Portal and Mammoth Lakes (and stuff in between if it's not too hot). My dates are flexible within that range as well.
I lead 5.8 trad and 5.10 sport, follow hard 5.10s on sport and trad, and boulder about V2-ish. Minimal trad rack (singles of .4 to 3, one set of nuts), 60m rope, and giant crash pad.
Would also like to hit up the hot springs at some point during the weekend :)
|
|
aldude
climber
Monument Manor
|
|
|
May 14, 2009 - 04:09pm PT
|
2 words : boob scrapage*
|
|
mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
|
|
|
May 14, 2009 - 04:39pm PT
|
...and with the new guide you're on your way to climbing some of the most pristine stone around.
Props to Russ and crew for the great routes at The Portal. Sampled one them .10b's put up last year. Righteous!
|
|
rbolton
Social climber
The home for...
|
|
|
May 14, 2009 - 04:48pm PT
|
That Russ is a slab climbing ANIMAL!
|
|
rbolton
Social climber
The home for...
|
|
|
May 14, 2009 - 05:37pm PT
|
Hensel is just dangerous, PERIOD. You want this guy perving around your tent at night? I think not.
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
May 14, 2009 - 05:45pm PT
|
yup to what the rest said (er, cept that last post. hope these guys know each other. ;) )
 and I want to get on that Uphus/Cramer route. anyone done it recently?
|
|
rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
|
|
|
May 14, 2009 - 06:54pm PT
|
"The BEARS are horrendous!!! "
Yep, one time I came back to my truck after a long day of climbing on WPB, and Bear46 had been chewing on my weather stipping, after he put paw prints and drool all over my doors and windows.
|
|
rmuir
Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
|
|
|
May 14, 2009 - 10:53pm PT
|
Somewhere in the Portal:
Stay away from these guys! They can really make a mess, but the job gets done!
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Jul 27, 2009 - 04:28pm PT
|
possibly out of date range, but bump for climbing
|
|
susan peplow
climber
www.joshuatreevacationhomes.com
|
|
|
Jul 27, 2009 - 04:55pm PT
|
I hear that guy in the pink shirt and green shorts can really lay some asphalt shingles. Can't dress himself but can sure swing a hammer.
|
|
Jim Lawyer
climber
|
|
|
Jul 27, 2009 - 05:04pm PT
|
Tom Yandon following P3, No Country For Old Men, a very long layback.
|
|
gonzo chemist
climber
the Orange Curtain
|
|
|
Jul 30, 2009 - 09:14pm PT
|
Whitney Portal is all choss. No good routes to be found there...none anywhere.
on Tanager Crack (5.10b)
on Pumpy Woof (5.9)
Darshan on PW
-N
|
|
Bargainhunter
Mountain climber
Central California
|
|
|
Jul 30, 2009 - 09:31pm PT
|
Killer post!
|
|
Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
|
|
|
Jul 30, 2009 - 10:22pm PT
|
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Jul 30, 2009 - 11:36pm PT
|
Don't believe the pictures that make it look like there's good climbing in the Portal. It's all smoke and mirrors. Nothing but choss. Nothing but pure, unadulterated, hideous choss.
The Portal Buttress
Pitch 1
Pitch 2 (note the "solid" hanging flakes)
Pitch 7
Pitch 7 "pro"
|
|
The Wedge
Boulder climber
Bishop, CA
|
|
|
Jul 31, 2009 - 12:36pm PT
|
Some of those upper pitches of the whitney portal butt. are as GOOD OF KNOB climbing as you would find in Toulumne, maybe better. Bring you board lasted shoes...NO slippers.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!