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the Fet
Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
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Aug 14, 2008 - 12:00pm PT
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Are you sure you don't miss working full time and the midwest? ;-)
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Aug 14, 2008 - 12:23pm PT
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Nice Crimpie and Dave! Bummed to have missed you guys in Tuolumne, but will see you at the Facelift.
There actually is a good approach for Power Dome. It's just difficult to find if you don't know where it is. You seemed to get on the right path the first day though, as you got on the traverse section of the approach. I have also approached from closer to the dam. Longer, but less intimidating for noob types.
Bummer about Trapper - the approach is all of 4-5 minutes. The approaches in Courtright really are nice - unless, of course, you're headed over to something like Locke Rock. Yikes! For the most part, however the approaches are all short.
Regardless, looks like an awesome trip and seems that you guys had a ton of fun!
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wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
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Aug 14, 2008 - 12:46pm PT
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Crimpie and Dave...living the life! Sweet trip!!
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Crimpergirl
Social climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 14, 2008 - 01:22pm PT
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Well, the approaches we found didn't kill us (though they tried it seems). I think the key is familiarity. I bet had someone who had been there before taken us, it would have been no big deal. Trying to find it on our own though was tedious work. We spent too long finding Trapper. The whole time I'm saying "eff this, let's go to Tuolumne". I was sick of hiking! Dave has a micron more patience than I so we did finally locate it. After finding Trapper, it's easy to see why it is described as a short walk. You just have to head in the correct direction!
** For those of you visiting and getting the same "Trapper Dome is an easy 10 minute walk from the Trapper Springs campground", know this: Leave the campground, turn left on the dirt road and go a short distance. Look for somewhat worn path on the right. You'll be right there then. Easy ten minute approach. :)
Haha about missing the midwest. I've been having nightmares lately that I'm back there and working. I think the semester beginning has me wigged. I do still have students contacting me all the time. Have a dissertation defense to attend tomorrow (via phone). I can't escape entirely from it!
Life is great out here! I hope to never go back. ever. ever. ever.
Sorry to have missed you Nefarius - we got your note. Maybe next time...
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ec
climber
ca
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Aug 14, 2008 - 05:37pm PT
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Nice!
On that 'spooky' belay. Those appear to be some big azz 3/8" buttonheads w/ stainless hangers. 'Curious to see the hanger bent like that. Still pretty bomber. The spooky thing is you guys clipped into the chain! Bleck!
 ec
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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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Aug 14, 2008 - 06:03pm PT
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Hey Crimpie and Dave, sorry to bail on meeting you guys for Cryin' Time in Tuolumne. My partner couldn't get off work in time but still really wanted to go, then it turned into a major waiting game trying to get outta Fres. It would have been like 11:30 till we got there, so I decided to bail. We ended up heading up and climbing at Courtright insted. Hope you got my text or phone message and didn't wait around too long. The offer is always open in Fresno if you wanna hook up. See you out there somewhere.
Scott
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dsqrd
climber
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Aug 14, 2008 - 06:05pm PT
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Awesome! And on that "the approaches really are short" ...
would anyone be kind enough to post directions to Tiger Wall? I'm in Fresno this weekend unexpectedly but without a guidebook ($93 on Amazon?) I expect I'll epic even worse!
thanks. - dd
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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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Aug 14, 2008 - 06:54pm PT
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Directions to Tiger wall.
The parking area is 100yds BEFORE you get to the lake on the main road in. Youre heading down a nice long straightaway downhill into the reservoir and get your first real glimpse of Power Dome on your right. You have a nice gravel pull out just beyond a right facing utility access road.
Park here and look for a trail heading right (East).
Walk downhill staying on the trail, in 5-7 minutes you will come to a nice 50' wall with toprope potential. Good 5.8-5.9s with bolted anchors up top. Continue slightly uphill for 20yds past this the hang a hard right for another 50 yds. The Tiger Wall will be on your left. A big steep orange and black wall with very sporty routes and some great bouldering. If you are third classing at any time you are lost. Enjoy. Make sure to find the big old glacial erratic sitting on the flat slopes just beyond the Tiger Wall. Bloody good bouldery photoy fun.
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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Aug 14, 2008 - 07:48pm PT
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Great tr and pics!
Yeah I remember the approach to power dome. First time we tried from the road, then across the bottom of the gorge and up, and that sucked. I got off route and spooked from the cumulus and thunder. The next day we drove to the top, then made the downclimb, bushwack approach and I twisted my ankle hopping boulders.
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Indianclimber
climber
Las Vegas
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Aug 14, 2008 - 07:59pm PT
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Thanks crimpie,I always love your reports
Ninfa
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snakefoot
climber
cali
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Aug 14, 2008 - 08:49pm PT
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best granite in cali...great shots
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SammyLee2
Trad climber
Memphis, TN
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Aug 14, 2008 - 09:42pm PT
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Hella TR, Crimpie. Thanks. Kim asked why you didn't yell, when you heard the snake, "Somebody turn the lights on!" Funny how your mind works. It connects but in corners. Ha, ha.
Very much looking forward to RMNP. Gonna be fun.
Really liked the Lambert Dome shots. Last time we were there, we heard the phone call for a rescue, at the store. By the time we got there, rescue was in place. Fortunately, it was just a broken ankle but still impressive as to their response. Plus, Kim saw this blond, young dude, cut like a machine, racking up. Hell, even I turned a head.
Anyway, great TR and pics, as usual.
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L
climber
The Outer Limits of my Inner Sanity
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Aug 15, 2008 - 12:24am PT
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What the? This thing disappeared faster than yer ca$h in Vega$.
Sweet bump for a great TR.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Aug 15, 2008 - 11:02am PT
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You've been cruising a widening range of classic NA areeas and routes this past year!
Looks like so much fun.
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Flashlight
climber
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Aug 15, 2008 - 12:47pm PT
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Hi Callie and Dave...glad I didn't ruin your Courtright adventure for you.
I should have stuck around longer the next day and at least shown you the "two minute approach" to Trapper Dome.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Aug 15, 2008 - 03:32pm PT
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Wow, great pic's, and, a great lookin' trip!
Perhaps the reason there are not many climbers there is because it‘s a pain to get to anything…at least anything on Power Dome. It takes quite some time, is dangerous and it could be argued that the risk and time is not worth the climbing.
Geez, I didn't think it was too bad, but, I probably have a high tolerance for that type of an approach...
Under the pipe...
Down one side, cross the creek, up the other...
T'was a snap...
You guys are havin' a great season! Keep 'er goin'!
-Brian in SLC
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Crimpergirl
Social climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 15, 2008 - 03:35pm PT
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Brian - that looks to be a nice approach. But I wouldn't have crossed the creek during our trip (believe me, we looked). It was raging! That may be the best way for low creek times for sure.
Cool photos too. That may be the only way to get most of Power Dome in a photo.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Aug 15, 2008 - 03:36pm PT
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While that approach would work, it's kinda the long way to go, for sure. Yikes!
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Crimpergirl
Social climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 15, 2008 - 07:10pm PT
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Few more photos from the trip:
Attempted second cat ascent of Lembert Dome (note tourists trying to kill themselves in the background - rangers ended up intervening):
Resident taco "flashlight":
Jaws-looking rock at the Needles:
Excellent campsite in Courtright:
That kooky dam at Courtright:
Evening cat entertainment gone bad:
Dave rapping off of Trapper Dome:
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Flashlight
climber
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Aug 15, 2008 - 08:55pm PT
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Callie...are those tourists heading toward Water Cracks?
What's with the dude in the Club G'itmo shirt?
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