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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Trad
That silhouette shot is awesome!!!!!!!!!!!!
cheers
guido
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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scwheet
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
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Nice follow up, Trad! In terms of rack, you're saying up to #4 should do it? Always felt the allure of this line.
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Trad and spy,
I'm disapointed. You went with out me. You didn't call, didn't write.
Awesome and fine pics though!
Thanks,
Zander
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Dirka
Trad climber
SF
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Whoop Whoop!
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Trad
Trad climber
northern CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 5, 2009 - 11:46am PT
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Re: the #4, yes I think so. The chimney seems to constrict down in such a way that nothing else fits very well until you get down to the #4 placement way inside. It's a real stretch - I have to push the stem of the camelot with my fingertips in order to get the cam into place (much to the dismay of the follower!). There's good gear options in the horizontal crack at the base of the chimney too, finger-sized to slightly larger. The #9 VG fit the wider part of the chimney really well, and was a lot easier to place than the #4.
(Zander, after you didn't pick us up on Friday we figured you didn't care... ;) )
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spyork
Social climber
A prison of my own creation
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Fukkin hard even on top rope!
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Oct 18, 2009 - 12:13pm PT
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My buddy Mike and I went up yesterday and did this little rascal. Trad, we split the pitch in two just like you suggested. I did the squeeze right side in but I had to use the knob. Now I see the pics I should have been left side in!!!! Godfrey Daniel!! That last move at the top is hard for us short stubby guys. I forgot my belay device, but, you know, the munter works great. We had great day. Sugarloaf is awesome.
Climb on!
Zander
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Oct 18, 2009 - 01:16pm PT
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last time I climbed outside all the holds were "on"
last summer at Vedauwoo, Mainstreet right side in and use the face features was doable for me with a bad back, probably 5.10a, two years before left side in is much more strenuous and requires sustained OW technique... my guess is more difficult than 5.10a
Found the crux of Orange Juice Avenue 5.10a a bit more doable if you leave the crack and use the edges on the face... maybe that's "cheating" but I don't think so.
Starting Generator Crack without using the inside edge?
Trick is to not get locked into a notion of how to do the climb, but to be ready to adapt to the situation.
Good on you guys... I haven't been up to that area in years... maybe this winter if everything knits back together
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Oct 18, 2009 - 01:34pm PT
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Ed, Lets go up there and do that rascal. The entire climb is good from the first pitch on up. I think trying not to use the knob is just a way to improve your OW technique. It's called "Trad's Challenge". If you don't use the knob you have to buy Trad a beer. Wait, is that right?
Zander
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Oct 18, 2009 - 01:44pm PT
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Never done that one, looks, 'crazy'.
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Zoo
climber
Fremont, CA
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Oct 18, 2009 - 06:10pm PT
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Zander did a great job leading this right side in, helmet on then off then on again. I fell on my first attempt when I leaned out toward the knob. On the second attempt, I gained the knob, only to find that the rope was stuck in the crack at the top of the little roof. After retreating to the safety of the crack, Zander was able to unstick the rope, finally I did the tip toe out, grabbed the knob, stepped up on a dish and was able to stem from the main wall to the arete and gain a foot on the knob to finish it off. It was just one part of a great day on some of the great climbs at Sugarloaf.
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Oct 18, 2009 - 07:52pm PT
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cool TR's!!!!
Love them pics
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Trad
Trad climber
northern CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 19, 2009 - 12:07am PT
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Glad to hear you finally got up on that thing!
I did the squeeze right side in but I had to use the knob. Now I see the pics I should have been left side in!!!! Godfrey Daniel!!
Oh well, you have to go back up there and climb it again. Fortunately Sugarloaf season is just starting so you've got another 5 or 6 months. Sounds like Ed's interested but if you need a partner let me know. I never get tired of that route, even if I can't lead it left side.
Kind of tenuous even using the knob, huh? (Stuck rope or not!)
a way to improve your OW technique. It's called "Trad's Challenge". If you don't use the knob you have to buy Trad a beer. Wait, is that right?
Ha ha. *I* will buy you guys TWO beers if you climb it left side in, no knob. Three beers if you post the photos!
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Feb 16, 2011 - 02:41pm PT
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Gary Carpenter and I went up and did this rascal. Our friend Mike (Zoo) was climbing Pony Express so he got some pics from the side of the route.
Here's two shots of Gary leading the bombay flare on the second pitch.
A little farther away.
You can see the squeeze crux high above in the photo. The technical crux is above that.
Here's a pic of Bob (Seneca) on the second pitch of Pony Express. You can just see me leading the second part of TMs up and right.
In the pic I'm trying to come up with a strategy. I lead it right side in last time. This time I turned around and did it left side in. I think left side in is easier.
The first time I did it I had few moments of doubt on the technical crux above. This time it went better. I made a lot of small moves and pretty much dink and dunked it to the top. Still, I did a bit of a beached whale move at the end but all's well that ends well.
Good climb. Gary wants to do it again to try different strategies including not having to clean the #4 with his nut tool. Ha ha. If he leads it then that will be my contribution!!
Zander
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nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
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Feb 16, 2011 - 02:59pm PT
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Man oh man, looks like sugarloaf is the place to be! I was there 2 weekends ago on Pony Express drooling over this line (and ran into Trad too), and I'm going back there this weekend. Probably will have to wait for this route though, cuz there's a limit to how many suffer-fest climbs my lady will do.
Glad to see y'all out there representing the eastbay wide club!
Zander, we have some unfinished business on Middle Cathedral... I hope you're training!
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Feb 16, 2011 - 04:12pm PT
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Oh Yeah Scott,
If the fates allow we will meet on North Buttress this spring!
Z
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steveA
Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
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Feb 16, 2011 - 06:34pm PT
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T.M was a great guy to climb with. Always kept you laughing! I bet he is really enjoying his grandchildren, as am I!
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Feb 16, 2011 - 07:07pm PT
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One of the all-time photos of TM by Fidelmann
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Trad
Trad climber
northern CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2011 - 10:15pm PT
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That's a great portrait. Sounds like some of you folks know TM Herbert; if you could get him to give some details on the first ascent of this route it would be great!
But - the matter at hand - ST won't allow me to edit my last post so apparently I owe someone 3 beers and I always honor my debts. Please advise on brand.
Nice job guys!
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