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Blakeb
Big Wall climber
Ashland, Oregon
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WOW! Webmonkey you sound like a real dick. You should maybe start a thread about what you would like to discuss rather than rain on others parade. How is my post doing on the coolness scale for ya?
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Texplorer
Trad climber
Las Vegas
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Nice photo bone, did that route last year. Did you guys find one of the pitches in the illusion chain to be the toughest?
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Holdplease2
Big Wall climber
Yosemite area
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Congratulations on your climb, Lambone! Maybe I'll see you in the valley before you head out. I'll be, uh, pretending to free climb. ;)
-Kate.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 4, 2006 - 10:29pm PT
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Minerals,
I didn't speak with Aaron but overheard Nicks conversation with C-Mac. The highlihts being a full pitch of beaks and tipped out blades...of which he didn't have enough. Also he mentioned that Klaus didn't leave hangers on the belay bolts so he brought a few of his own but forgot a wrench to tighten the nuts down...so his solo belay anchors were kinda scary and ghetto rigged with duct tape. Nick's wall stories are awesome!
Tex, yeah we thought the Aluetion chain was a crux for sure, more scary then technical though...Brook clpped the bolt below the flake placed an arrow then did two bomber hook moves to get past the flake staright up that seam. My pitch before the Bearing Straights was pretty cruxy for me...right off the belay the thinnest nailing on the route for me anyway. We took whippers on the A4 pitch of SS and the first pitch of PO being gumbies in that expando sh#t. Luckily they were steep and clean whips! pretty fun stuff.
Kate, I am already home, just another in and out wall mission. sorry I missed you, have fun!
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BrentA
Gym climber
estes park
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The low bering str8 pitch was thin when we did it too.
Missed your SS whiipper, I was watching too
Cheers
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Holdplease2
Big Wall climber
Yosemite area
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Right on, Lambone, next time...!
-Kate.
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T Moses
Trad climber
Paso Robles
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I wondered who was over on Porcelain Wall. We could see a light from where we were on Dinner Ledge. It was cool to blink at him and get a response. It looked like he topped out yesterday (Saturday), I think.
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up2top
Big Wall climber
Phoenix, AZ
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Nice job Boney! Looks like a lot of fun. More photos when you get the chance.
Kate -- what about you? Any plans?
Ed
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 7, 2006 - 08:29pm PT
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Hey Ammon and Cheryl, how did it go?
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Fluoride
Trad climber
California somewhere
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Lambone, I don't think they're down yet. I was watching them Sunday fixing up to probably around P3 or so.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 7, 2006 - 08:36pm PT
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that's cool...they just made some mention of doing it in a push so I was curious about that.
cheers
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Elcapinyoazz
Mountain climber
Anchorage, Alaska
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Oh no! SHHHHH! Don't tell anyone! They might get scooped.Ya'll sound like a bunch of 4th graders.
Bro brah one above already leaked it is 2nd ascent. AFter all recent hullabaloo and beer offerings concerning "Miles of Holes" aka "Wings of Steel", and it's status as one of the very few w/o a repeat, I'd say it's the obvious choice. But i could be wrong, after all it's been a long time since I was in 4th grade. Duck. Duck. Goose beyotch.
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Cheryl
Big Wall climber
Chicago, Illinois
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Not a push ascent - Ammon and I were just up there having some fun.
I'll let him tell you about it.
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Nice. Good send, Ammon and Cheryl.
EDIT: my intel was bad
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Cheryl
Big Wall climber
Chicago, Illinois
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We weren't going for the send, we were up there playing around on the opening pitches, just checking things out.
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ricardo
Gym climber
San Francisco, CA
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matt ..
good job on SS ..
.. i also found the illusion chain to be a hard pitch -- did it the same way .. clipped the bolt, slammed a pin, and hooked through it quickly .. as it groaned, and gonged! .. fun!
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Anyone have any info on the Sea of Dreams party?
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Ammon
Big Wall climber
El Cap
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Yep, I was up on WOS. I'm working on the Huber Bro. film and will probably have to wait a few weeks before launching. Mean while I will be fixing more ropes.
It looks like someone else here in the Valley has their eye on the route as well (Yep, 4th grade again, I promised not to say who). Whatever. I was mainly curious about the route, than the idea of getting a second ascent.
So far, the route is really good. I took a 50 footer on the second pitch (the left start). I nearly bailed thinking the flakes were no longer there anymore. I went back up with Cheryl and gave the second pitch another try. This time with nothing but a draw and two talon hooks. It took a while to figure out which direction to hook up the blank face, but I finally figured it out.
The hooking was on dime sized edges and was not enhanced. I'll write more in a few weeks, after the drama unfolds.
[edit] Eric Ericson is on Sea of Dreams, can't remember the other guy (not Tommy T).
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