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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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I would be delighted to see stills from a 1973 eight mm movie of climbing University Wall, or the movie itself. Apart from the footage of Baldwin & Cooper in 1961, it may be some of the earliest film of climbing at Squamish – Dave N.’s movie of Dave V. and Eric on Sentry Box was from 1975. They had the latter converted from 8 mm to video, and are now getting it further converted into a DVD. Perhaps we need to have a movie/slide night.
Steve Sutton and Hugh Burton did the first ascent of Uncle Ben’s in 1970, a bit before the era if not decade under discussion. A solid test climb. Uncle Ben’s was named for a cheap, popular draught beer called Uncle Ben’s, which in turn was named for a lively character named Ben Ginter - http://www.harbourpublishing.com/title/Ginter (Not for the brand of instant rice!) The kind of swill popular amongst poor teenagers, and Americans. The climb, and another called Ten Years After, were on the fairly blank face between the Grand Wall and University Wall. (Ten Years After was either for the rock band, or for being ten years after the Grand Wall – except the latter was in 1961.) Anyway, fairly modern climbing, up flakes and face cracks and so on. Steve and Hugh had been to the Valley once or twice by then, and done the Nose, and so were bringing back and applying some new things.
Uncle Ben’s was probably also the scene of the first ‘real’ rescue at Squamish, in 1983. (Steve S. and Hugh B. had been lowered a line on the Black Dyke in 1970, to jumar out in a rainstorm, but that doesn’t really count.) Jim B. fell a pitch or two below Dance Platform, and broke one or both wrists. I was sent to get the RCMP, and we had the usual Q&A session with a bullhorn. In the end, a posse was formed and flown to a shoulder of the Chief. Some people crossed Bellygood and hoisted up Jim et al, they got him back across Bellygood, and he was then flown off. As Squamish has slowly come to have a number of experienced climbers who are resident there, a rescue team has gradually evolved. They get some government backing, and put in a lot of effort, although as with all search & rescue groups, most of their efforts are for non-climbers.
'Wall' Climbing at Squamish in the 1970s - Part II
After Cerberus, the next long route was Humpty Dumpty, which takes a tenuous line of flakes in the middle of the Grand Wall. Scott F. and Carl A., maybe with helpers, did it during winter and spring 1977, an extraordinarily dry winter by Squamish standards. In the middle of the route, there’s a flake named Humpty Dumpty precariously sitting on the wall – and getting around him is part of the fun. I believe that Scott did the last pitch or so by himself.
Daryl and Cam C. did a route in the Western Dihedrals – a series of big bottom to top corners to the right of the Grand Wall – in 1978. Just left of Freeway. It’s called Getting Down on (or in) the Brown, and although mostly aid, involved lots of gardening. It’s probably never been repeated, although with enough effort seems likely to be freeable.
Perry B. and Dave L. did a more interesting route, Zorro’s Last Ride, in 1979. It’s on the wall left of the Black Dyke, and forms a giant “Z” (zed, that is) when seen from afar. The usual stuff – overhangs, seams, flakes, rivets. This is the one which Daryl took a giant fall on, when he broke a buttonhead and ripped a bunch of gear. He went a long way.
And then there’s Pan Granitic Frogman, a six pitch ‘wall’ high on the upper left side of the Grand Wall. Half the battle is getting there, but it’s a very airy spot. (For those who’ve done Squamish Buttress, where the climbing resumes on that route at the end of the forest, go up and right along the narrowing exposed ledge, instead of up and left.) Despite the approach, it’s very exposed, about as exposed a spot as exists on the Chief – very headwally and atmospherish. The routes match, with seams and face cracks and flakes and hooking and stuff. Daryl did this route in 1978, with John S., and then in 1982 another route in the same area. Very rarely done, but quite aesthetic spot.
The other new wall route at Squamish during the 1970s was Freeway. It was the first route apart from the three broken arêtes (Angel’s Crest/North Arete, Squamish Buttress, and North North Arete), the four gullies, and Crap Crags, to go free from bottom to top of the Chief. (North North Arete was probably the first all-free ‘real’ route, done by Eric and Dave V. in 1973.) Freeway seems comparable to Astroman in length and difficulty – sort of an AstroCanuck™®©. It was done by Tom Gibson and Rob Rohn from Ontario in 1979, although they did a lot of cleaning, and used a bit of aid. It was for the most part a new line, too. I guess we should have given them more beer, eh? So that was quite something – big new free route done by easterners. Perhaps Tom can add to the story? Freeway may not have been repeated until 1990, when it was further cleaned and entirely freed, and is now very popular.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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One unusual hazard of climbing at Squamish in the 1970s was the risk of being corrupted by un-Canadian influences. Most conspicuously the sordid fleshpots of our somewhat rambunctious southern neighbours. Despite many temptations, most of us were able to resist, with one notable exception, who now lives in Bishop. One of those temptations was regularly seen on the drive to Leavenworth. About 2/3 of the way there, east of Seattle, this is what our tender young minds were exposed to.
(The sign says “Adult Movies. Closed Circuit TV. Heated Waterbeds. Hourly Rates. Ceiling Mirrors.”)
Yes, it’s that notorious den of iniquity, the Steven’s Pass Motel, after which a route in Leavenworth was named by Peter. We never actually dared to go in, but it all seemed rather Nevada-like. The “ceiling mirrors” bit seemed particularly promising, but I can’t remember if they also had vibrating beds. The kind of stuff they got Socrates for – corrupting the young.
Later they converted to paintball games, which was rather disappointing.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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What an amazing thread!
I hadn't followed it because I never climbed there, though I climbed with a bunch of those from there. Gawd what a stupid merkan I am.
I need to read closer but, any of you Northern types know My brother, Dave, Anderson? Pretty sure he was from Vancouver, a piano tuner by trade, into the wide (runs in the family, what can I say?)did the first ascent of Lost World, on El Cap, had a bunch of Squ-ish stories, met a tragic end in a helicopter accident in Utah, late 90's, I think he was about the same age as Dr Hartouni, not young like Anders and myself (class of '56?)
I'm psyched to go climb up there, though I hear they don't allow n'er do wells such as myself, to pass their borders, these days, sigh.
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mastadon
Trad climber
Tahoe
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Jaybro, get out of here!! You're Dave Anderson's brother????? How can that be? I knew he had family in the NW but didn't know about any brothers floating around out there.
I did a LOT of climbing with Dave in the 70's and have a bunch of great pictures of him.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Not literally, we used to say that, as a joke. Since we had the same last name. Dave started it, he could go on for a long time with a straight face. In salt Lake (where we both lived) we used to spin a whole story about having gone on a mission together and all sorts of nonsense. Those were funny times...
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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I wish to state for the record that neither JayBro nor DaveBro is my son. (Raspy, tortured, wheezy mechanical voice): I....am.....not.....your.....father.
Now I wonder what eeyonkee has gotten up to? He needs to add some stories about their climb of Freeway, not to mention his adventure on Pipeline, a climb which Jaybro would firmly approve of. Paging Greg!
I wonder if my photo of Steven's Pass Motel is unique? Those not from Washington should note that that house of ill-repute is quite close to Index, and I've sometimes wondered if their proximity was coincidental.
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bobinc
Trad climber
Portland, Or
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I was a sophomore in HS the first time I went to Leavenworth ('78 or so). We came up from the Columbia Gorge and drove in from the east so didn't have the opportunity to see the Stevens Pass Motel. By the time I lived in Washington (mid-80s), the infamous motel was shuttered and the descriptive signs carted off.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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I do have a pipeline Jones.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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but Boogie 'til you puke is more of an OW challenge
And if the neighboring Scimitar doesn't make you puke, it will surely have you dry heaving...
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dirtyfloat
Trad climber
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Bump for a great great thread. Relocating to Vancouver in the new year, looking forward to spending some quality time up at Squamish.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Dec 10, 2008 - 04:48pm PT
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While we are - ahem! - waiting patiently for stories if not pictures from the first ascent of Freeway, and the first free (solo) ascent of Pipeline, I'll add something about the first ascent of Pipeline. It's from 1967, which is a little pre-1970s, but a good story.
Pipeline is a 4 - 5 pitch route on one of the subsidiary cliffs at Squamish, now called Slhanay. (Formerly the 'Squaw'.) Some aid, and mixed aid/free routes, were done on the cliff in the mid to late 1960s, and then it was largely unclimbed until the early 1980s. With one notable exception.
Here is a photo of Slhanay, which I have shamelessly borrowed from the Squamish Rock Guides website.(http://www.squamishrockguides.com/squaw.htm);
(Photo Marc Bourdon.)
Pipeline is to the right of "Birds of Prey". In the middle of the photo, there's a big grey slab, which slants up and right. Its left side is bounded by a clean white wall, forming a right-facing corner called Right Wing. To its left, in the middle of the big white wall, is a left-facing corner that swoops up. That's Pipeline. The whole thing is a giant hourglass-shaped flake, tilted to the right.
Pipeline was first done in 1967, by Barry Hagen, Glenn Woodsworth, and Leif Patterson. The first half, to the point where it branches off from what later became Birds of Prey, probably wasn't too bad. However, they got to the base of the big corner - it's over 60 m long - and realized they had nothing that would fit it. Not even these, in Leif's arsenal, and now in the YCA collection:
The largest bongs ever commercially made.
At its narrowest, Pipeline is about 6" (15 cm), and it steadily widens. There's a pod in the middle.
So they left a rope or two and retreated. All three were scientists, and had thought about this problem. Indeed, Leif had a doctorate in mathematics from MIT. So Glenn and Leif visited my father, who then worked for Alcan. He had some aluminum tubing in the basement, which was donated to the project. I'm not sure if they cut up the pipe into correct lengths and took it up, or hauled it up and did it on the spot. Whichever, they cut segments which were seated/cammed by hammer, and so got up the climb. (They placed a bolt belay half way - rope not long enough.)
Perhaps the first use of what later became called tube chocks.
Probably the second ascent of Pipeline was in 1979, when Greg went up one fine day and free-soloed it - a very stout effort.
As MH2 mentions, photos of climbing Pipeline, and indeed other stuff for the widefetish and buildering crew, are at http://www3.telus.net/public/7394243/climbing/offwidths/episode5.html
I wonder what became of all those aluminum bits that Leif, Glenn and Barry mostly left in Pipeline? Museum-quality stuff. If they were still there in 1979, I wonder how Greg got around them?
Perhaps Greg will now add stories and photos about Pipeline, and Freeway.
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MH2
climber
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Dec 10, 2008 - 05:11pm PT
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Waiting patiently....
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mastadon
Trad climber
Tahoe
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Dec 10, 2008 - 06:39pm PT
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That's gotta be one of the burliest first free ascent stories I've ever heard. Done in the day when there were no sponsers, camera crews, people on the ground cheering, rescue top-ropes, nothin'. Zip, zilch, nada... No one to hear you scream when you fall.... That's the kind of life-defining event that would change a person forever.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Dec 11, 2008 - 03:05am PT
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Another good friend from Squamish in the 1970s, who’s still climbing, is Simon T. He appeared about 1975, through mountaineering like most of us, and has graced us with his presence ever since. An always cheerful and energetic companion, and a fine climber, too. Here he is climbing at Hedley Bluffs, a cliff that is most of the way from Vancouver to Penticton (Skaha).
We climbed at Hedley sometimes in the 1970s – hoping to find somewhere dry, and Canadian, to climb in spring and autumn. Skaha wasn’t really explored until well into the 1980s. However, there was an Outward Bound school at Keremeos, a town not far from Hedley, and they climbed regularly there.
There was also a semi-commercial climbing program called Mountain Craft, which operated in the mountains northeast of Whistler. It was run by some ex-Brits, one of whom went on to start an outdoor recreation program at a community college in Vancouver. Other than that, some of the local clubs had instructional weekends, focusing on mountaineering skills, with some rock climbing. That was about it. We might have learned more quickly had there been courses and books and guidebooks and all that, but many of us mightn’t have been very keen on that kind of structure.
I’ve done my share of introducing new people into our little world, sometimes in a fairly structured fashion. Despite that, I still firmly believe that the things that are central to climbing can’t be taught – responsibility for one’s self, accepting and managing risk, having the fire that makes you want to climb, judgment, and leadership. Some of which was brought home by an adventure that Simon and I had in 1978.
“We were climbing on the Chief one day, in the merry merry month of May…” Except it was June, and we were climbing on the Malemute. A nondescript route called Mirkwood Forest, which is three or four pitches, up to middle 5.10. Here’s Simon, following the second pitch, which leads to a two bolt stance belay in the middle of a slabby face.
Just above, there’s a corner that’s often wet. We got partway up it – I can’t remember who was leading, or if it was wet. Anyway, the leader went to clip a buttonhead, and the shaft broke off. It is kind of funny, in retrospect – we thought the darn things (Rawl ¼” x 1 ½” compression bolts) were reliable, and behaved accordingly. But there we were, hangar and a bit of steel in hand, looking silly.
There were shenanigans getting back to the belay. We decided to rappel. I went first. About half way down, I heard a ‘ping’, and dropped a little bit. Simon said “Try not to bounce. One of the belay bolts just broke.” I slid as gently as I could, clipping one of the ropes to any bolts and other anchors available – I figured that if the other belay bolt went, we might then have a chance. Not long after, Daryl took his big fall off Zorro’s Last Ride, also due to a bad buttonhead. There was a defective batch in circulation.
These events quickly led to the introduction of Bosch power drills, five piece stainless bolts, rap bolting, chipping, gluing, and the end of climbing as we knew it. And it’s all my fault! If only we’d kept quiet, joked about it…
Don’t let me get started on people who write guidebooks.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Dec 11, 2008 - 10:35am PT
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So those tubes were definitely in place when I did the route in 1979. They actually gave me pause with each encounter, as I had to get my shoulders in really well in order to bring my leg over the tube. The tubes actually made the route a fair bit harder for me. Frankly, I wish could remember the day and climb a little better than I do. Not only am I a lousy story teller...I can't hardly remember the story I'm telling.
As far as Freeway goes, I remember even less, since I was not personally involved with the ascent. I do know that it took Rob and Tom a few days of effort, and we were all psyched for them. I believe that they rated it 5.12a (back then, 5.12s were pretty rare for our group), and it still had a little bit of aid on it which has since gone free. While Tom and Rob were on Freeway, George Manson and I did the FA of a rather obscure climb with OW, Wild Turkey.
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MH2
climber
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Dec 12, 2008 - 12:58am PT
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WILD TURKEY !!!
Note that it was done in 1979, within the Mighty Hiker mandate.
One of my partners and I, or at least I, have a running joke that goes, "Look Tom, there's no one on Wild Turkey." So far Tom hasn't said okay let's get on it.
According to another partner, Brendan, he and I met Kevin McLane and Utah Steve Seats as they were coming back from Wild Turkey. According to Brendan they said they got well worked by the route.
One day at the Squaw (Shihani-who?) Tom and I met Gord Ross who took the photo of John Furneaux on Wild Turkey that appears in Kevin's latest guide.
I hear the siren call of Wild Turkey.
edit: the guide says line of the finish uncertain for the FA - there are 3 exits now described each of which sounds awful
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MisterE
Trad climber
My Inner Nut
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Dec 12, 2008 - 01:23am PT
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Man, that free-solo story of Pipeline is the stuff of legends. I mean Earl-Wiggins-Black-Canyon-Solo quality all-out-there.
Can't wait.
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