The Classic 'Pumping Sandstone' by John Long (Climbing 1978)

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Messages 17 - 36 of total 82 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Mimi

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 1, 2007 - 09:01pm PT
Hooooman! How bout some of that speckled stuff? The third installment of the series (Pumping Iron, 1977, being the first with that Arnold guy who went on to Pumping Handshakes). Check out his brisketoliciousness™™ at work.





graham

Social climber
Ventura, California
Sep 1, 2007 - 09:23pm PT
I had forgotten this “pumping granite”

Love the last sentence, last paragraph, hell the whole thing!

bob d'antonio

Trad climber
Taos, NM
Sep 1, 2007 - 10:05pm PT
That article was like a small bible that sent me on a search for bouldering salvation.

Classic!
Curt

Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
Sep 2, 2007 - 03:26am PT
I noticed last year that the big old tree behind Largo on the "Way too High" boulder problem has since been cut down.

Curt
jgill

climber
Colorado
Sep 3, 2007 - 05:30pm PT
I have fond recollections of JL and John Bachar coming down to Pueblo for some sandstoning in the 1970s that led to this article. I was pleased they displayed the dynamic style that I was partial to, soaring up many of the local problems with a graceful gymnastic exuberance. Superb athletes, both of them - fun to watch.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Sep 3, 2007 - 05:41pm PT
I am sure they derived equal pleasure from watching you move. As a tall man myself, your power and grace on the stone has long been an inspiration. How did you discover the Pueblo boulders?
jgill

climber
Colorado
Sep 5, 2007 - 10:44pm PT
Mostly by just driving around the local area in 1971, when I moved to Pueblo. However, the Lost Canyon boulders (Pennyante, Juggernaut, etc.) were discovered when a friend of mine, a realtor, was introduced to the elderly gentleman who lived on the edge of the canyon and controlled water diversions from the Huerfano River at that point.

Thanks for the compliment.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Sep 6, 2007 - 11:26pm PT
You and Pat inspired me to breifly venture into gymnastics to develop some power. Best muscle tone that I ever attained came from it. My 5'4" partner Paul Davidson could do these through a loop of 7mm cord but a tall man! All of that rope climbing must have helped.


Any stories connected with the next two photos, also yours, from Climb Godfrey and Chelton, 1977?

Left side of the Eliminator, Ft. Collins.

Pennyrile Forest in Kentucky.
nvrws

climber
Sep 7, 2007 - 05:20pm PT
Wow, I didn't know Mr. Long was hangdogging way back then...
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Sep 8, 2007 - 10:36am PT
Say what.........? There's no hangdogging in the conquest of the boulders.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Nov 2, 2007 - 01:41am PT
Largo- not sure that you even saw this thread so bump.
Mimi

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 3, 2007 - 01:35am PT
From the Verm's classic Stone Crusade - A Historical Guide to Bouldering in America, 1994.

Mark Wilford slaps the lip on Pinch Route, a typically dynamic Gill route on the Mental Block. The pinch hold in his right hand is America's most famous sandstone hold, the mantel above, one of America's most notorious.

Just getting both feet on the rock is a triumph. Steve Mammen on the upper half of Meathook.
Watusi

Social climber
Newport, OR
Nov 3, 2007 - 03:03am PT
I lived by these words indeed!
Tahoe climber

Trad climber
a dark-green forester out west
Nov 3, 2007 - 03:27pm PT
Bump for an awesome thread.
My favorite quotes:

"Keen concentration and focusing of strength provide the top rope, but judgement is always the belayer. With this concentration, plus honoring the consequences of a gigantic whistler, calculation generally replaces the boldness with confidence, providing the ticket to ride. This confidence is gained by slowly pecking away until the sequence is revealed."

"…the excessive telecasting of one’s inner climbing experiences is in poor taste and embarassing – like forcing home videos on a stranger. Anyway, a theological approach to bouldering proves to be just that much more psychological luggage to keep the mere contemplator grounded. The personal beauty of the sport is in the doing, and there alone."

Beautiful, John!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Aug 12, 2008 - 12:24am PT
Raw power bump! For tales of Olympic rope climbing.
dogtown

climber
Where I once was,I think?
Aug 12, 2008 - 12:59am PT
I remember looking at that cover in amazement! It still blows my mind.

More please !
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Aug 13, 2008 - 11:08am PT
Largo!
Are you ever going to join this thread, the spotters have been asking for ya!
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Aug 13, 2008 - 11:56am PT
yes, the people demand more JL and will not be denied!

i lived and breathed those articles; they dumped gasoline on my already-raging bouldering fire and i've never looked back. sometimes writing can shape your life. so it was with pumping sandstone and pumping granite.
Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Aug 13, 2008 - 01:21pm PT
Sorry, doods, but I've been busy and haven't been keeping a bead on ST.

Many, that stuff sure sounds arch and overblown but hell, I was just a kid when I was writing those articles and they served their purpose and got people stoked for bouldering. Look at it now!

Bachar and I sure had fun on those sorties to secret Gill areas. He was our hero. Bachar showed me a bunch of obscure Gillo stuff like Acrobatic Overhang, and other arcane problems at Split Rocks, Ft. Collins, and up at Estes. We became Gill experts.

The Left Eliminator is still one of my favs.

JL
midarockjock

climber
USA
Aug 13, 2008 - 09:59pm PT
Largo your an amazing climber especially with your size.
Messages 17 - 36 of total 82 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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