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Jim E
climber
away
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Aug 28, 2009 - 01:55pm PT
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I don't see any RURPS.
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apogee
climber
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Aug 28, 2009 - 01:57pm PT
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Ummm, can't see what the end pieces are, but the three in the middle are hooks, not RURP's.
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apogee
climber
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Aug 28, 2009 - 02:03pm PT
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Sometimes a little attention to grammar and syntax will make your communication understood. Jes' sayin'.
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Steve L
Gym climber
SUR
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Aug 28, 2009 - 02:08pm PT
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RURPS or hooks. Male or female. All that matters are those sweet, sweet tights.
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
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Aug 28, 2009 - 02:08pm PT
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Regardless of the metal used, the question I have is... but why?
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hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
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Aug 28, 2009 - 02:24pm PT
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damn...
but really, that seems bold to propose it as being A6+, Saying its A6 would be a bold statement, even saying A5+ seems bold.
But, I won't argue too much with a guy hanging from 3 grappeling hooks for a belay...
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Slabby D
Trad climber
B'ham WA
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Aug 28, 2009 - 02:26pm PT
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Looks like a fat bolt just down and left of the left most pic. Rope is clipped to it on a bight. Maybe the hooks are for cool magazine photo spread?
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Mark Not-circlehead
Boulder climber
Martinez, CA
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Aug 28, 2009 - 02:33pm PT
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You can piss a bolt hole in at the Fisher Towers........
A5, A6, A6+, it's all relative to the pucker factor.
Good thing at the Fisher's, if you take a 50 footer and hit a ledge, the ledge is just as likly to explode as your femur.....
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Aug 28, 2009 - 03:09pm PT
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A6+?
Beyer touted A6 on the fishers right? What route are they on? Established already at A6+?
That does look like a fat bolt down and left, or a bomber titanium pin or somesuch.
All that Dyneema would probably cut, rip, or blow should that spinner at the belay take a static squat to pee.
Fu(king Euros
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 28, 2009 - 03:38pm PT
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Perhaps there are some things we don't see in the photo, and aren't told about.
Not that I intend to go anywhere near such places. Scary stuff! My Canadian Oxford defines rock as "the hard material of the earth's crust, exposed on the surface or underlying the soil" (emphasis added), and I'm sticking to it.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Aug 28, 2009 - 04:07pm PT
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Looking at that closely, it looks like there are 4 pieces clipped besides the hooks. Looks good though I never much enjoyed the hooks I have hung on.
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
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Aug 28, 2009 - 04:10pm PT
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What a bunch of Brainless Monkeys!
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GDavis
Trad climber
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Aug 28, 2009 - 04:14pm PT
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Sweet link, dude! I would take the rating they give with a grain of salt, no need to armchair mountaineer this one to death ;D
Why are Spanish climbers (i assume they iz spanish) so badass?!?
I look a lot like this.
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WBraun
climber
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Aug 28, 2009 - 05:01pm PT
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Yeah it's a total poser shot. Bomber bolts at the belay and he's on them.
Nobody unless you have death wish would belay off the hooks and a rurp like that.
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goatboy smellz
climber
लघिमा, co
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Aug 28, 2009 - 05:51pm PT
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yo Jeremy, translation via the googles.
David Slap has just come from Titan (USA) in the Fisher Towers, where Esther Ollé has charted a new path "Look Out! Danger " which proposes A6 +. If confirmed by future grade repeaters, would be the first route in the world of this difficulty.
Tell me how this route is that you just opened.
It has 11 long, runs through the north western side of Titan, is a very direct line is about 315 meters of travel. It has three long A5, three A4 +, one of more of A6 and A3/A3 + +. The total number of days employees were thirteen. We set three long, seven days and from there to the top wall. The first idea was not to set any longer, but it is impossible to load up all these meetings, nor is fitted into them. Since the R3 go back around very slowly and very light material loads (up to 15 comebacks to have everything up, go bitch beating). We also had in mind not putting any fixed anchorage, but eventually the wall and sends to overcome a smooth wall section we go through the expansion. Iliad Go! as we had to go to Moab to buy a chipper and tacos, because we did not have anything. In the end we found some super mini rivets and ratty kids that fit right in our path. The meetings do not have any expansion.
What is this degree?
The A6 + no longer a proposal, simply. I have the reference of "Intifada", which is cotada A6. Then, without realizing it, we see that the meeting is actually more precarious that all material on the long out just by looking at and really drop there could be very serious (I will not say what for if you fall you kill yourself, because I hope not have you ever know). But technically speaking we believe that has raised the bar. Moreover, the material used is normally used in Montserrat: timber, lead ... and in this type of rock is super romantic.
In an A6 ... you if you fall to the ground and not survive ... and in A6 +?
Because the ground below you can not fall ...
I like this question because it is typical that everybody makes. I see it differently: the artificial soil technician calibrate it differently. Yes it's true that Jim Beyer proposed "drops 70 meters and threatening" but it is true that the danger of death accompanies us every day since we got up we went to bed (even snoring is there). By this I mean that the proposed A6 + not because I'm thinking that we can kill, if not up a little more technical difficulty, both in meetings and on the sites of the lengths. What I can assure you is that in a drop-in specific, you can freak out quite long.
Meetings "hold out a fall?
Aaaaaahhhh !!!!! That is the great unknown. Meetings are cool, but chung, are painful.
Is the most difficult track in the world fib? And open for a non-American?
Damn! And my fault if the rock does not give the end plugs! I have a passion, and Fishers haunt me ...
Is there much difference between this route and to repeat the year?
Yes, "Intifada" to me is the VIA! Line is a brutal, brilliant, super well met. One way to enjoy (we must never forget where you are), a line that follows a logical system of fissures. Our way, in my opinion, is heavier and lasts. To open a long afternoon of 15 to 17 hours. Too much even for a fanatic like me.
And to put it to Esther, your companion, in a wall to do an activity where the play will not only you but also her. Much you want it to you and you bit it right?
Jajaja ... This time the fault is not mine. This year we rolled it alone, but is lucky to be with someone who shares and respects what you do. I can assure you that if you've come is because she knows every line with a well nochesoñaba alone in the vastness of the Titan ... Aaahhh ... hush, hush, I wear silly ...
His mother does not know, I guess….
Yes, you know. The one who does not know it is mine.
Why the high artificial climbing difficulty?
Why free climbing high difficulty? Why the extreme mountaineering? Why the speed records? Why every day at seven tomorrow currar? Why can not I play the original happy? Why not ?
Mechanical're race bikes do not you have anything else to do in your spare time to return to the mechanical wall?
I just relax, and is truth, is pure mechanical plugs. The best thing is hanging up there do not smell like gasoline.
Tell me about the feeling of opening a channel of these features
Simply brutal. Little more can I say it is one thing I feel inside, you just feel good, no hurry, no clock ... When your arm can only get off the hammock and enjoy the scenery ... and tomorrow. For me it is a brutal stress release.
Seven days for 300 meters is it worth?
I think we should all fight for our projects. This question makes me my mother every time I go climbing. And the answer is always the same: while I feel good, that means it's worth.
Has there been a very dangerous situation? Did you fall?
Well ... there are several sites of tension, one is in the fourth over, that we must go below the ET (and I got him a super mega huge block that holds almost levitating). Here you have to "float", because as you c#m on by to say hello you can have a little problem seriously. And another long chunguillo is the seventh, where a A5r (to drop the "Hilton", the name we gave to the bivouac). Top Fall "? For the first long, just start the first step, the first head I put aluminum. I was lazy and did not want to work, so I stick a rolled "slutty" sort of "armor" [David uses protections for motorists as protection]. After the laughter I thought going to sh#t, the first step and I fell ...
How to sleep in a A6 +?
Better than the parking of the Towers, because there has to be paid in the hammock and not (you know how we are Catalans: the peel is peeling, jajaja)
And if you get scared and want to download ... is it possible to mount something solid to rappel?
You better call the "Power Rangers, jajaja. I will not think. In line rappels where will we go down we have lost a lot of anchors. I have a very interesting collection at home.
Have you wanted to go down many times while paving the way? And Esther?
Not get off. I did not want was to begin. Was too lazy with all the solano falling from noon until he left, and more at night knowing that there would be cool beer. But once the first bivouac bajarías you no longer ever.
Do I need to go to U.S. to find where to open these routes? Have not we field walls so dangerous?
Well, that I ask myself, but what is certain is that the Fisher Towers special characteristics to meet the extreme escalation. And for me all the walls are dangerous, especially those that make the V / V +.
I guess you see in normal artificial way to make high-difficulty (and much risk) is not very common ...
For me what is unusual is to go walking with the bag and the sandwich. Think there's always a minority who share this hobby. And from there, all those "extreme enthusiasts pedal" I thank you for letting me share the other side of the rope, then waits at the meetings are priceless.
Do you still talking Esther after this?
It is really dumb ... ... jajaja, es broma, damn, what if you talking about?, Not to say that next year will do the Camino de Santiago, alone and cycling ... because it will be? Nor does the case so badly! Every day I gave an invigorating shower of mud ....
The first feeling when you reach the top?
Stress, high stress ... It was twenty minutes before dark, the rappel is painful sh#t you makes a wind of the host, Esther and I hear rain above,-ass. Later, later, in the hammock, I visualize the moment and Buuaaa! Brutal !.... Titan Thanks for letting us share your loneliness.
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Scared Silly
Trad climber
UT
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Aug 28, 2009 - 06:23pm PT
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They are all poser shots - but I do not see any reference to belaying from rurps by the authors just in the taco stand title.
The belay shot is a bit of spoof as they are belaying off what looks to be at least one bolt but using hooks and couple rurps to back things ups.
And as for the grade, what ever, if they had fun who cares.
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Eric Beck
Sport climber
Bishop, California
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Aug 28, 2009 - 06:29pm PT
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Didn't Bridwell create a rurp anchor on the FA of Pacific Ocean?
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Aug 28, 2009 - 06:58pm PT
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More anchor overkill. According to Donini, you only need one of those hooks.
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Aug 28, 2009 - 07:16pm PT
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Medusa is correct! You CAN see two eye-bolts below the hooks. A poseur shot for sure! So f-ing euro! Where are the RURP's you guys are talking about? I see no RURP's anywhere.
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WBraun
climber
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Aug 28, 2009 - 07:26pm PT
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There is rurp there.
You need glasses to see.
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Scared Silly
Trad climber
UT
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Aug 28, 2009 - 07:52pm PT
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Werner, if I want to see up close I gotta take my glass off.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
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Aug 28, 2009 - 08:12pm PT
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Hey hosers! hedge already explained the title. Can't you guys read?! Sheesh.
A6+? Intifada? This picture? BWAHAHAHAHA Ghey shit!
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Luke Malatesta
Trad climber
Moab UT
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Aug 28, 2009 - 08:21pm PT
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those guys were in our shop not that long ago (guy and his lady)...apparently they repeated intifada last year and bought a f-ton of #1 peckers and tomahawks for some new route....they were pretty quite about what was going on.....that and bad english.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
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Aug 28, 2009 - 08:29pm PT
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Anyone here done Intifada?
I know some peeps who've done it. They say Beyer is full of sh#t. Had some pretty good supporting evidence too. Pics, etc. Regardless, A6+ is nothing but an ego grade. Not even possible on the aid scale. Pose on, dear Spaniards... Pose on.
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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Aug 28, 2009 - 09:04pm PT
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werner is right. the whole thing is probably a euro poser fest. they probably defecated 10 feet from the base too....covered it with a TP flower...
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fluffy
Trad climber
chainsaw city
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Aug 28, 2009 - 11:15pm PT
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"A6: (Theoretical grade) A5 climbing with marginal belays which will not hold a fall."
so if we have established that the belay is, in fact, bolted, the climb's A6 rating (by definition) will not stand.
i'm sure the climbing is scary and proud and all that but if creating (or creating the appearance of a) shaky belay to achieve an A6 (or even 6+ rating whatever that means)...that's pretty questionable.
one would hope A6 would mean there were no other options than a belay that would experience total failure in a fall. as someone pointed out, in the fishers there is almost always a drilled pin, bolt, snow picket, whatever to be had. it may not be there 2 weeks but its imminently more safe than a nest of hooks or rps.
foregoing a (relatively) safe belay in order to bump up the grade seems brainless to me. faking such a scenario? brainless AND fraudulent.
(disclaimer: i can't pretend to know the FA party's intentions and i have nothing to go on other than the poorly translated narrative and the few pics)
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Aug 28, 2009 - 11:19pm PT
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I thought A6 was pulling the anchor after a full pitch fall....
So A6+ must mean you also kill someone on the ground by landing on them with your entire circus.
RAD!!!!!!1111666
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 28, 2009 - 11:23pm PT
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So A6+ must mean you also kill someone on the ground by landing on them with your entire circus.
Only if the Death Panel™ agrees.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Aug 28, 2009 - 11:30pm PT
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That is what I am thinking, Russ. This whole thread is an effing mess.
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jstan
climber
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Aug 28, 2009 - 11:51pm PT
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I move we just have Chris nuke this whole thread. Not because of the poseur stuff. We see that all the time.
I think we need to get rid of all the references to "f**king euros."
Right about now Americans are looking moronic enough without going out of our way to confirm that impression.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 28, 2009 - 11:54pm PT
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It's not a very polite thing to say about a currency that is key to world economic stability.
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Dirka
Trad climber
SF
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Aug 28, 2009 - 11:57pm PT
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Rawsome!
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up2top
Big Wall climber
Phoenix, AZ
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Aug 28, 2009 - 11:58pm PT
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A7 can't be far behind. That's when you fall the full rope length, rip your anchor, and the blast wave from your high velocity descent rips another party off the wall. All parties vaporize on impact leaving a meteor crater at the base.
Ed
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 29, 2009 - 12:03am PT
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A7+ is when the rope exceeds the speed of sound as you're falling, so failing to warn the parties below that they're about to be scraped off the wall like a burnt egg off a griddle.
Ed is currently working on this problem of physics: http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=335919
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GDavis
Trad climber
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Aug 29, 2009 - 12:05am PT
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A8 is a pitch you lead in your mind listening to Ayn Rand on audio. The odds of self inflicting injury is STAGGERING.
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dogtown
Gym climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
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Aug 29, 2009 - 12:32am PT
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Or maybe you mean like this?
No?
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reddirt
climber
Elevation 285 ft
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Aug 29, 2009 - 01:02am PT
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at least they brought an umbrella in case it rains on that lovely Navajo (or whatever) sandstone
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paul roehl
Boulder climber
california
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Aug 29, 2009 - 01:38am PT
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Jesus that's a sun umbrella! Who uses a sun umbrella? If your not burning you're not having any fun. Proof of european descent is the use of a sun umbrella; they were very popular at Versailles after all... I'm climbing really hard stuff and I need to keep the sun off my cheeks!?
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
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Aug 29, 2009 - 02:32am PT
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The team did Intifada last year, which they thought was a better line ("THE LINE" he says).
He's a mechanic for racing motorcycles in Spain, and apparently uses jingus motorcycle parts for aid? Not clear on that part. His only fall was on the first piece off the ground, one of these motorcycle rivets apparently? No idea what's up with that, just reading the interview.
He bolted in one section on lead (didn't have a drill or bolt, so had to run to Moab to get it).
No bolts in any of the anchors. He says they couldn't have rapped if something went wrong or they got the snail eye because they didn't trust the anchors? That doesn't make much sense.
13 days total. Fixed 3 pitches. After that, seven days to climb 300 meters. Topped out in rain.
My bullshit radar was redlining for much of what I was reading, but who knows?
One of the exchanges --
Interviewer: ¿La vía en artifo más difícil del mundo? ¿Y abierta por un no-americano?
(The hardest aid line in the world? And put up by a non-American?)
Climber: ¡Joder! ¡Y que culpa tengo yo si a la peña no le da por el artifo extremo! A mi me apasiona, y las (Torres) Fishers me hechizan…
(F#ck! It's not my fault if nobody's into extreme aid! It fires me up, and the Fishers bewitch me...)
Hrrrmmm. As the wise man says, Quien sabe?
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
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Aug 31, 2009 - 07:33pm PT
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"He says they couldn't have rapped if something went wrong or they got the snail eye because they didn't trust the anchors?
....13 days total. Fixed 3 pitches."
So, how does that work. You are afraid to rap on your anchors, but hanging your ledge, and all that crap from those "death anchors" is OK. hahahaha
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Ed Bannister
Mountain climber
Riverside, CA
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Aug 31, 2009 - 07:38pm PT
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Russ and Werner,
you guys have missed it!
A6 PLUS is when your cameraman falls
and kills someone on the ground.
Katherine Desnivel?
a self promotional circus all unto herself.
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tonesfrommars
climber
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A6 is when you drag the contents of your entire f&#king garage up some A5: ten foot pole for taking pictures, your TEDDY BEAR, four extra pair of lycra pants, the sun umbrella, pots and pans... you get the idea.
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dogtown
Gym climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
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No Rurp’s no A6. And no A5. Go figure? LOL.
Nice too hear from you MS.
Bruce.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Hey, parasols are what the smart wall folks bring to stave off dehydration and sunburn - lighter and more convenient than extra water. Maybe she got the idea from Melissa:
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seamus mcshane
climber
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To quote Stevie Haston,
"Do you really think I couldn't A5 if I wanted to?" ;)
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BASE104
climber
An Oil Field
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I am pretty sure that there was a hook belay on Zenyatta. There was a bolt about ten feet above it. Buddy of mine did a really early ascent. The hooks were supposedly bomber.....
I have never climbed in the Fishers, either. But my bud also said that when you scrape the crap off, the rock is actually really hard. So you can head the stuff.
All this second hand info....
A6+? Who cares if you think it is bogus? Wait on a repeat.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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I guess the difficulty vs. fall potential thing has never clicked.
In keeping with the spirit of the latter...
I vote A6 = no rope w/ daisies
A6+ = same as above, but daisies are adjustable
A7 = No rope no daisies
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Jeremy, a MUDD GANGSTA like you NEEDS to get to the bottom of this issue...armchair climbers NEED TO KNOW!!!!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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To be a real A6, not only will the belay anchors not hold a fall, but the impact of you hitting the belay anchors must result in something like a million cubic meter rockfall, or say, the whole tower toppling over and squashing not only your corpse but all the tourons at the base and hundreds of meters beyond in any direction.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
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I like Mel's scale. Makes me feel like a badass, as I've done all of those. hahaha Funny, I didn't feel that hard when I did them tho. Is no rope w/ adj. daisies up the first 4 of LT really A6+? I call her version of A7 soloing. :)
Are those outfits like the modern equivelant of Euro tights or something? They look just as silly as the tights did. I'm glad I missed out on the whole tights thing. I jsut can't help but laugh when I think of them getting up in the morning and putting on their climbing "outfits" to go climb. hahahaha
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rick d
climber
tucson, az
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it's A.6 because they did not have peckers! (either the pin or the trouser version)
since I have 7 #1's, 5 #2's (on order), and 5 #3's (again, on order) combined with Jeremy's rack (less that foul #3) we should be set (maybe a few more toucans).
I'm bringin' the freezer for the shrimp and "mimosa" mixin's.
now for the thai server girls mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm
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FeelioBabar
climber
Sneaking up behind you...
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them tight ass Euro grape smugglers he's wearin sure is purdy!
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Help me out on this one, big-wallers out there, please. The second 'biner in from the right of the pic looks loaded on the tri-axis AND gate/nose--what purpose could this possibly serve (in this complex system), low load break-away shock absorber?
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Me and Klaus would crack that sham off in about 3 hours. Toss Gagner into the mix, and it's down to 2:40 with beers at the belays. I'm seeing bolts and showboating.
Next......
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Gagner is old enough to be my father.....
Me and Klaus will take care of the heavy lifting..... poor old guy.... we'll save him the summit pitch.
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rick d
climber
tucson, az
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if we can pry Eric away from his knife collection....
Russ, that means you're in?
dates?
I can get Condor and he pals with Coomer (on the wagon?).
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Walla Walla, WA
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Not bashing them BECAUSE they are euros, but their account of their climb and its rating is pretty obviously ridiculous.
If their rating is based upon Intifada, then even "metric" doesn't get it done. Intifada had one short section of not-even-really-very-hard (like old-school A4), while the rest of it was just grungy (think vertical beach) and pretty easy (except for trying to clean Beyer's useless alumi-blobs from his trenches from below).
Their praise of Intifada is the most laughable of all, IMO. Intifada's line is not "direct," bold, or special in any way. It meanders a lot, ends at the ridge where it shares two pitches, and then heads back onto the face one pitch from the top in order to have one last finale of "difficulty" -- from a BOLT ANCHOR.
So, I take the account of their route with a huge pillar of salt, given that they base their notions of "greatness" and "difficulty" on such a mediocre and quite easy route.
And, think about Intifada this way: if two losers like the Mad Bolters could easily do it, and downgrade it, on their first major desert "rock" outing, how hard could it have been?
Note: Beyer is not the measure of American climbing difficulty or greatness, even on his "specialty:" desert "rock."
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handsome B
Gym climber
SL,UT
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I think the joke is on you guys.
It's hilarious how everyone is frothing at the mouth over a bit of contrived aid wankery.
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Clearly, the question is whether the route is A6c or A6d.
There are some who are even trying to downrate it to A6b!
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Walla Walla, WA
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Well, there's a BIG difference between those letter grades, so I surely hope that no downgrading occurs until many teams have done the route to develop a reliable (read: objective) consensus. Otherwise the rating would be just arbitrary.
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ArtifoATope
Big Wall climber
Spain
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May 20, 2010 - 11:51am PT
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Excuse my English, I studied French in school. use an automatic translator and the result is not always correct.
On the internet they are all good climbers.
Why instead of criticizing without sense, there is a strong team to repeat the itinerary?
David Palmada and Esther Ollé have an impressive record of aid climbing. They deserve respect, as well as climbing in Europe.
There are many routes in Spain that many of the critics would be unable to repeat.
More respect and if not known is better informed before speaking.
They say it is a proposal to be confirmed. WILL CONFIRM!
Santi
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Walla Walla, WA
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Sorry to resurrect a dead thread, but I've been searching the Net for any updated info on this route. I find no topo. I find no way to contact the FA team. Is there any more updated info on this route, particularly a topo of it? Anybody know anything other than that it's on the Titan?
Thanks in advance!
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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/\ Boo yah, get it!
Just read that Infantada TR. Fantastic read.
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Walla Walla, WA
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Thank you.
Any leads on a topo?
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