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Ed Bannister
Mountain climber
Riverside, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 14, 2009 - 01:04pm PT
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I'm not sure we could call this a thread, because the guy has done something for everyone he knows. For me, Mike instantly included me as a friend when I showed up with a store in Chatsworth, and helped in multiple ways. True, he can't tell the difference between 11c and 5.9. but that is because has the highest strength to weight ratio of seemingly any human. I belayed Mike on his attempt to static Father Figure onsight.
Mike Waugh pulled on a tiny hold to his belly button, and then held it there! are you kidding me? Mike is really, really strong, a committed climber,how long is the list of those who have done the Bachar-Yerian 5 times? and, above all a giving and true friend. Hats off Mike! Ed
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L
climber
Nowhere in particular...and I'm going back soon...
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Jul 14, 2009 - 01:25pm PT
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Mike is one of the greatest all-round athletes I've ever met, much less one of the best climbers. He's also a remarkably generous friend, and as funny as they come.
You just have to be very careful around him at Halloween parties if he's drinking double and sporting a sword...
>^..^>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
Arid-zona
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Jul 14, 2009 - 01:42pm PT
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Forget his athleticism. Just an all around great guy. I remember some great chats with him in the TM parking lot and at the SAR site. Hard not to be smiling with a guy like that around. Where are you Waugh?!?
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Jul 14, 2009 - 01:58pm PT
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Wah-zoooooo!!!!
Mike is fantastic!
Top of Intersection on a birthday/anniversary or something for the Waughs.....
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Jul 14, 2009 - 02:47pm PT
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Mike is by far the nicest & hydraullically strong climber I have ever known. He is also very bold. Climbing runout routes like the Bachar Yerian, You Asked For it, etc. Free solos.
I did Space Babble with him in 1987 & he was so solid & sure. Whazoo is still out cranking hard & having fun every day. Well almost every day!
I gotta have some pics somewhere...
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susan peplow
climber
www.joshuatreevacationhomes.com
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Jul 14, 2009 - 03:36pm PT
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Agreed on all accounts!! Mike is freakishly strong and those blue blue eyes makes a girl swoon. Dedicated loving father, husband, public servant to boot. What a guy!
Russ, tell the story about us following Mike and Eddie Moe up Roseanne on Fairview. We'll let the folks here on the Taco guess who was the "b team"
~Sooze
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Ed Bannister
Mountain climber
Riverside, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 14, 2009 - 04:58pm PT
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great Waugh pics Russ!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Jul 14, 2009 - 05:17pm PT
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currently I think Waugh is the strongest climber at Stoney Point.
great guy knows his stuff. love hang'n with him.
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Jul 14, 2009 - 05:24pm PT
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I climbed with Mike and Dan Hersmann in the meadows in the summer of 1978. Mike broke his wrist (arm?) in a fall on I think it was Sorcerer's Apprentice on Fairview. Because he couldn't climb, he ran down to the Valley and back from Tenaya Lake on the trail past
Cloud's Rest and Half Dome. Way energy!
Bruce
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Anastasia
climber
Not here
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Jul 14, 2009 - 05:26pm PT
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Three Cheers to Mike,
He is a great climber, person, husband and friend. You can't get better than that. Plus he is married to one heck of a woman. Thanks for being you Mike.
:)AF
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Jul 14, 2009 - 05:53pm PT
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Mini TR about Roseanne, with Waugh overtones:
So me and the Sooze are in the meadows for a few days and hook up with the squatters in "Camp Waugh". No idea how they do it but they are up there for months at a time..... anyway.... We have no real plan of action and Waugh and EddieMo say, "hey, lets's go do Roseanne tomorrow..... it's casual". I'm skeptical. Waugh is a known sandbagger and really too good of a climber to even guess how the other half lives, nevermind know how they live. I look at it in the book and decide "yeah, we can do that... it's 5.9... how hard can it be." Done deal... we'll go tomorrow.
Next day we rack up, which is odd for a face climb, and Waugh says some stuff that is starting to get me nervous....like, "got any small nuts? You might need them" and stuff like that.
The base is found and Waugh takes off, being sure to tell me to say close, "cause the "B" team might need some help." He floats the first pitch which you can pro in the corner, if you are in the corner.....
Here is Waugh on the first pitch, with the route drawn in:
Me and Sooze take off shortly after EddieMo is up near the belay of the first pitch. I am of course outside the corner and get like zero pro in and have to do some harrowing moves to clip the bolt at the top of the corner. I yell up for beta and I get back something like, "oh.... don't fall from there... you might deck." This is reassuring as I'm about 70ft up.
Sooze on the first pitch:
Finally I get over to the belay bolts at the top of #1. A "good job" rains down from the "A" team as they are well up the second pitch by now. Sooze come up and I get ready for the second pitch. Waugh is well above but waiting for me to cast off onto the glass.... yeah... I'm not that solid on this stuff.
Pitch 2 glass:
After getting established above the belay I am being directed by the Wazoo and Emoe to where I can wiggle in a TCU and wired before committing to the traverse that gets you into a big corner that will take some pro. I think they are laughing up there..... Some standard hair raising edging and puling will land you at the belay.
For pitch #3, Waugh offers up that if my eyes are good, I might find the old rusted 1/4"er up on the third pitch.... "but it won't hold a fall" he adds. Hopefully the crappy nuts behind a flake will take the teeth out of any 150ft fall I might have in mind. These Tuolumne guys are nuts.....
Looking up pitch #3:
The top of this route is capped by a roof. Waugh is calling it "maybe 5.4"..... I'm thinking "bullcrap... that thing is 11d if I've ever seen it." The "A" team has now disappeared over the summit. I take off out of the belay and start searching for the bolt.... I find it, and they were right... what a piece of crap! I wouldn't hang wet socks over a fire on that hardware... but I clip it anyway. The slot through the roof is right above me.... and eyes be damned, it might actually be 5.4! Thank Satan! The roof goes easily and there is the "A" team on top waiting for us.... knowing we would either be lost or die on the descent.
Summit roof exit:
What a great day out! For sure one of the best days out that entire year, and me and Sooze owe it all to Mike Waugh. Just having him up there above us, point out the pro opportunities, and cheering us on with "ho man... don't fall THERE" encouragement dragged me up from a semi solid Tuolumne 5.8c leader to a 5.9r-beta-from-above hardman! Thanks Mike!
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L
climber
Nowhere in particular...and I'm going back soon...
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Jul 14, 2009 - 06:06pm PT
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Mike does have an inspiring reputation of being a Donini-Don't-Do-Anchors with the pro. Powell told me once that if Mikey carries more than 3 pieces with him on a route in TM, it's only because he's thinking about bivying. ;-)
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
way, WAY out there....(OMG)
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Jul 14, 2009 - 06:20pm PT
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Right on for the Waugh.......WooHoo!!!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Jul 14, 2009 - 06:25pm PT
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some f*#kers were throwing bottles off the top of Stoney point. Waugh waited for them to get back to their car. He then beat the sh#t out of those (told'em not to do that because of the climbers down below). waugh saved the day!
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jimthomsen
Social climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Jul 14, 2009 - 07:41pm PT
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Mike truly is one of the best...climber and friend. I met Mike at Stoney in the 70's and as this list shows, the stories are endless. I take some credit in introducing Mike to Brenda one weekend in Lee Vining. A couple of weeks later we watched him lead Stairway to Heaven in Sorels with crampons sort of tied on. She should have known what she was getting into.
Next year Mike will join my wife and I, sailing from Panama to the South Pacific. There are few, if any, people we would want to be on a small boat with for 30 days. We are looking forward to having Mike aboard.
Here's to you, Mike. See you soon in the Meadows.
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cyndiebransford
climber
joshua tree, ca
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Jul 14, 2009 - 08:10pm PT
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I love Mike and Brenda Waugh! They throw great parties, they know how to camp in comfort, they are fun to climb with and fun to travel with. I really miss seeing you. Maybe when I get settled in Alaska you will come up and party.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Jul 14, 2009 - 08:20pm PT
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Mike is one of the greats that I had the honor to watch at Stoney when I was just a pup. I latter became a fireman and worked with him on occasion at the station in Chatsworth. He was always helpful both at Stoney giving me beta on a problem or at work.
Alspitz,
Was it you who had the climbing shop on Topanga Cyn down the road from Stoney in the mid 80's?
Kevin Mokracek
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Loomis
climber
*_*
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Jul 14, 2009 - 11:40pm PT
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Man, Mike Waugh was so kind to me when I was growing up down in the San Fernando Valley. Bouldering with him at Stoney was great, always learned something new from him.
I am not sure where I was, but I remember Bachar making a comment about Mike "That dude's rad" That pretty much sums it up.
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WBraun
climber
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Jul 14, 2009 - 11:51pm PT
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Mike Waugh will walk up to you as an ordinary man with an amazing extraordinary person underneath.
The guy is a mind blower.
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Robb
Social climber
The Greeley Triangle
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Jul 14, 2009 - 11:56pm PT
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Know the name - can't place the face. BITD pics anyone?
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
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Jul 15, 2009 - 12:03am PT
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I would follow Mike around at Stoney and it was on one of his nightmare problems I blew out my L4/L5 Disk.
At my prime when I was doing laps on crowd pleaser up and over the roof, I could keep up with Mike.
Juan
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Jul 15, 2009 - 12:33am PT
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Mike Waugh bitd. Thanks for being a trooper years ago. Playing and joking with all the kiddos when they were with Dan and I at JTree etc. Great guy and great friend. lynne
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Fixdpin
Trad climber
Porterville,CA
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Jul 15, 2009 - 01:39am PT
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Mike has always been the quiet riot. He used to bicycle around the San Fernando valley like a fiend. The first time I ever heard of a "century" ride Mike was cranking 50 or 60 miles almost every night after work. He just seemed to pop up everywhere I've ever been. One time I thought I was going to sneak out to Clark Canyon and mess around, but there was Mike with his kids and a rope. I can't think of a better climber or nicer guy than Mike. He always has a smile and kind or flattering word.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Jul 15, 2009 - 01:50am PT
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Waugh can climb anything, and he cannot be caught on a bicycle....(except maybe by Rob Raker...)......we are all whimpy in comparison to Waugh......and his wife Brenda is even more awesome than Mike.......it's unreal....
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susan peplow
climber
www.joshuatreevacationhomes.com
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Jul 15, 2009 - 02:41am PT
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"Brenda is even more awesome than Mike.......it's unreal.... "
Yup and to think they bred more of the same!
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Nick
climber
portland, Oregon
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Jul 15, 2009 - 10:14am PT
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I am going to let Mike kick my ass on a ride today. Photos later.
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Jul 15, 2009 - 12:19pm PT
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From what I was told, Mike was a Cat 1 bike racer bitd. That's professional suffering.
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susan peplow
climber
www.joshuatreevacationhomes.com
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Jul 15, 2009 - 12:59pm PT
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Forget the bikeride. If you're in Bend you should climb not bike.
Unless you hardmen want to do a two-fer
Lucky bastards!
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rbolton
Social climber
The home for...
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Jul 15, 2009 - 02:28pm PT
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YOU two on a bike ride? Christ...where do you strap the walkers?
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rbolton
Social climber
The home for...
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Jul 15, 2009 - 03:26pm PT
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OK...all this Waugh worship is getting kinda gooey. Time to bring the dignity down a notch.
The two long suffering widows Tannis Sampson and Brenda Waugh
Guess which one drinks? Mike at his 50th
Two silverbacks grooming at the compound in the meadows
Lovely old couple on the beach in Washington
Captain Wazzi
Arthritis Meds...check, Adult diapers...check, walker...check
Yikes!!!
Looking all french and sh#t
In action with a bad belay
Doing what he does best.
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curt wohlgemuth
Social climber
Bay Area, California
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Jul 15, 2009 - 04:08pm PT
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I knew Mike back in the day, but never climbed with him; he was always totally out of my league. I did *lots* of riding with him when we were both racing; I'd ride over to his fire station and he'd be getting off a shift at 7 a.m. with no sleep. Then we'd go for a long training ride. And he'd still kick my butt, but was always nice about it!
jimthomsen! Haven't seen you in 25 years? Hope all's well with you!
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susan peplow
climber
www.joshuatreevacationhomes.com
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Jul 15, 2009 - 04:40pm PT
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Robert,
Those photos and captions are hilarious. Remind me next time we climb to bring a spotter and get you a grigri.
What's up with that belay?
Side note: Who knew Mikey looked like that with his shirt off???!! Yowzaaaaa Brenda, no wonder you're always smiling :)
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Wheatus
Social climber
CA
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Jul 15, 2009 - 05:13pm PT
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Mike is truly an amazing climber. I have struggled on many boulder problems at Stoney Point and Tuolumne that Mike cruises up like it’s 5.0. Ask him what grade he thinks a climb or boulder problem is……”5.9” or if pressed “5.9+” no matter how hard it really is. He is amazing on Tuolumne knob climbs.
Last time I saw him in the Meadows he was sporting a swami belt. He explained that modern harnesses tend to upend slab climbers. He went on to say that a swami belt is prefect for Tuolumne’s low angle climbs. I did not disagree with Mike because of the story he told me once……
“You Asked for It”
Mike once told me about the day he greased off "You Asked for It". As I remember, Mike said it was a warm day when he greased off a foot hold at the end of the (first?) pitch. He said he tumbled down the face until the bolt stopped him way below. He had split open his scalp and was bleeding profusely. Mike wrapped his t-shirt around his head to stop the bleeding. Brenda was not very pleased when she saw Mike wandering down the trail with his blood soaked turban.
Just goes to show you that even the amazing climbers can be mere mortals if they are not careful.
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Ed Bannister
Mountain climber
Riverside, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 15, 2009 - 05:18pm PT
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Mike never figured on much of a chance at winning a bike race against the 1's who were riding as a lifestyle, well, except he always figured he had a shot ay one race, the one with the most punishment: Bishop to Mammoth.
yep"Art of Climbing" was my shop.
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L
climber
Nowhere in particular...and I'm going back soon...
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Jul 15, 2009 - 05:49pm PT
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Great photos, Bob. I think you just surpassed Russ as Funniest Man Alive.
(What happened to Mikey's hair???)
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Jul 15, 2009 - 05:57pm PT
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hey there say.... i don't know you mike, but i'll throw in a neat appreciation... i just love appreciations... :)
say, after this neat trip report from ol' russ---and some other neat stuff said from these folks...
well, oh MY! I SURE DO appreciate you a whole lot more... :)
god bless to you and the family... and to the climbs!
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curt wohlgemuth
Social climber
Bay Area, California
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Jul 15, 2009 - 06:18pm PT
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Alpspitz says:
"He always figured he had a shot ay one race, the one with the most punishment: Bishop to Mammoth."
I rode with him in this race once. I had the misfortune of getting one of his "special" water bottles from Brenda: water, Coke, coffee, and Excedrin, I think it was. I nearly threw up...
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powderdan
Social climber
mammoth lakes
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Jul 15, 2009 - 07:52pm PT
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mike was one of my first heroes when i was a green horn back at stoney. 88 or 89 i think. when kuan and i took our first trip to the meadows that summer, mike and his wife made us feel real welcome. thanks guys!
its always nice(not frequent enough) to run into him in the sierra. thanks for being a great early inspiration.
AND HOW ABOUT THOSE EYELIDS!they deserve there own appreciation thread!
dan molnar
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Jul 15, 2009 - 08:20pm PT
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Alspitz,
I remember you well, I bought a pair of Sportiva Taos from you, still my favorite shoe ever. I used to climb a lot with Chuck Blackwell.
Now back to giving Mikey his props.
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Nick
climber
portland, Oregon
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Jul 15, 2009 - 10:00pm PT
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Mikey is sitting next to me here after I let him ride me into the ground and I quote .. "all you on line losers get a life" and "Bolton you suck" .
None the less he wanted to see all those photos twice and if he had a heart if would be touched. We already spent a couple of days in central oregon doing the double. Ride AM, climb PM. I wish he would go away I'm getting thrashed.
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matty
climber
po-dunk
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Jul 15, 2009 - 10:40pm PT
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I climb with Mike semi regularly (Stoney) and always have a wonderful time. Mike is kind, friendly and unassuming. During conversations he listens with sincerity. His comments are intensely thoughtful and thought provoking. By watching him climb, I learn. He teaches without speaking. The man drips style. Cheers to Mike, hope to see somma y'all this Aug at "Camp Waugh!"
Matt Stanich
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Ed Bannister
Mountain climber
Riverside, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 15, 2009 - 10:42pm PT
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Tell Mike I am at Phil's shop, working...
knew he wouldn't be in love with the appreciation, just humble Mikey
but the truth is, he is a great guy.
Who else lets Rich Lake sleep in his trailer in front of his house for months because he was, as Largo puts it, residentially challenged?
anyone with Waugh Photos, or sandbag stories, please post...
Ed
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Jul 15, 2009 - 11:17pm PT
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hahahaha! Good stuff Nick!
Hi Mike... when does the "b" team get back to action?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 16, 2009 - 12:06am PT
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Here's to Mike!
modest, soft-spoken, uncompetitive.
Like WTF people?
Have you totally lost it ???
He's a little TERROR !!!
Hi Mikey,
love and kisses...
Roy
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Jul 16, 2009 - 12:50am PT
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Mike, miss you dude.
The first time I did the Vampire was with Mr. Waugh and Mr. Badurka....it was cruise action.
One time many years later we were up at June Lake for a Ice climbing demo (Boreal). We climbed all day and then I was driving home (to Mammoth) later and I see Mike hiking down 395 near Deadman's. I pull over, "Mike," I ask "how about a ride?" He is all " No, I want to walk."
"OK dude."
The next day he is up bright and early for the demo.
What about those "Popeye" arms?
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Jul 16, 2009 - 01:04am PT
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Popeye pulling a one arm from bitd. Haven't seen it, but sure he can still crank it. :D
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Nick
climber
portland, Oregon
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Jul 16, 2009 - 01:04am PT
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Waugh wants to know why all the girls aren't chiming in to sing his praises.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Jul 16, 2009 - 01:07am PT
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One of the single funniest human beings I have ever met.
did I mention the Popeye arms?
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Jul 16, 2009 - 01:16am PT
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Back when trash talk ruled, "horizontical" sock lines were vogue and chalk bags were larger than the shorts they covered. :D
Rad days of yesteryear. lrl
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Ed Bannister
Mountain climber
Riverside, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 16, 2009 - 04:52pm PT
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Tarbuster wrote:
"Here's to Mike!
modest, soft-spoken, uncompetitive."
Mike and Paul Anderson were bouldering at purple stones for the camera.
Paul chalked up while hanging off the lip of an overhang by one hand...
Mike replied by climbing to the same point, cranking halfway through the move, then holding the 90 degree bent one arm, while he casually chalked up with the other, and then he finished the move....
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 16, 2009 - 05:17pm PT
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Stony Point... about 1979.
Mike's hanging out, just him, his pectorals, 'n this cute little dish.
He asks her, (like she cares):
"So what do you want to see me do next: the double dyno?
Or how about maybe I do the one-arm mantel...
Which arm should I use; right or left ???"
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Bart Fay
Social climber
Redlands, CA
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Jul 16, 2009 - 05:27pm PT
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>>Here's to Mike! modest, soft-spoken...
He's not dead, can't we dawg him a little better than that ?
SOFT SPOKEN ?
I've always thought that he was a highly talented Sch!t Talker
and rabble rouser. I always failed in my attempts to keep up.
Seems like he really enjoys getting under some folks skin (Epps ?).
I figured that he honed his skills at work, in the fire fraternity.
Powell gives off the same effluence.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 16, 2009 - 05:34pm PT
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Or how about the footwear SLAP.
BITD, he'd be prancing about on things you could barely stick with your EB's.
In his signature pair of white deck shoes: flimsy at best, like Vans or Keds.
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rbolton
Social climber
The home for...
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Jul 16, 2009 - 06:53pm PT
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NOW we're talking about the real Mikey. I'm so glad we're over the sanguine, rainbows and unicorns sh#t. Quite the vicious little bitch when he wants to be. Definitely all that fire house training. As a sh#t talker, I'd put him in a league with Walling and Clune. That's world class.
Can you say fruity?
Captain Buzzkill and Lucky Charms pull up their boots.
Cragging on a beautiful day in Washington
Tell me THIS ain't scary!
Some old dude perving on Brenda
OK, so maybe he can climb a little.
Needs no caption
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Jul 16, 2009 - 07:00pm PT
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Here's to Mike, great climber, and a fine caddy.
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rbolton
Social climber
The home for...
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Jul 16, 2009 - 07:03pm PT
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Ricky. Good one! Who is the skinny chick in the yellow sweatshirt? Oh...wait. Thats Hensel. My bad.
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Nick
climber
portland, Oregon
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Jul 16, 2009 - 09:25pm PT
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Bolton, Waugh says you are going down this summer. "The gloves are off" . I took him to a Hairy Potter movie. I got to ask... which one is Waugh? Don't give him any clothes or he won't do our laundry.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 16, 2009 - 09:30pm PT
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Dan Hershman 'cud prolly give us some good stuff on Waugh ... right?
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Capt. Buzzkill
Trad climber
Northridge, CA
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Jul 16, 2009 - 10:08pm PT
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After over 25 years of climbing and bouldering with Waugh, I've only heard him use a few ratings: 5.9 (easy), 10c (also easy), 11b (hard), and "can't do it." By his standards, he's never done a 5.12. Anyone heard any different?
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CathC
Social climber
Wyoming
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Jul 16, 2009 - 10:11pm PT
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Great to get to see Mike again after many years!!! So glad you and Kevin stopped by for a visit here in Kelly, Wyoming last October !!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 16, 2009 - 10:25pm PT
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Capt.Buzz:
Yup,
And moreover,
I'd say The Gran Wazoo's fave rating,
For anything real tuff, but just barely leadable, has to be 10D.
He LOVES to down-peg 5.Eleven-whatever at 10D...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 16, 2009 - 10:43pm PT
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Even BACHAR took note, w/some humor, that Waugh rates the BY at 10C.
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rbolton
Social climber
The home for...
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Jul 16, 2009 - 11:18pm PT
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Nick...Yeah, yeah, whatever. What's the little house elf gonna do? Blacken my kneecap? Tell him when he's big enough to wear long pants, come see me.
Mikey, warming up for his nap.
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Nick
climber
portland, Oregon
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Jul 16, 2009 - 11:31pm PT
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Careful Bob, house elfs can be sneaky little bastards. Wouldn't be surprised if Ed was in cahoots with him. Damn, this could be entertaining.
Mikey never cared a whit about a persons climbing. As we learned many years ago and he so loves to quote "It's only rock climbing". That being said, the little house elf sure can pull. Agreed his rating is 3rd class, 5.9 (easy, no falls), 10c (kind of hard, might fall), 11c (falls off but does it) and 5.12 (way hard, sport climbs it). I witnessed his Dad doing a one arm after work with no training as an almost 50 year old, genetics. One of the most talented natural climbers I have ever scene and damn fun to get in trouble with. No dirt...he has too much on me.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Jul 17, 2009 - 12:01pm PT
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Whoa! How did I miss this thread? I go off to Washington for a few days and miss all the fun of picking on Waugh.
Mike and I started climbing together in 1873. We are still climbing together. That's how you know just how nice a guy Mike is because he is still willing to hang with me...
At least that's what he tells me. Hell if I can actually remember.
I tell you though, if there is anyone in the whole world I would rather be in a sticky climbing situation with it is Mike. You just know that no matter how hard it is he isn't going to fall off. And even if the runout is 100' he will get you to the top.
He is and always be one of my best friends.
Hey Nick, don't let him read this!
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Jul 17, 2009 - 12:14pm PT
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1873? Man, maybe I'm not so old after all.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Jul 17, 2009 - 12:35pm PT
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No, that was not a typo, yer just as old Dave. You just forgot...
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rbolton
Social climber
The home for...
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Jul 17, 2009 - 02:07pm PT
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I dunno, Dave...I'm thinking Jan might have been around in 1873.
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Nick
climber
portland, Oregon
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Jul 17, 2009 - 02:12pm PT
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Better living through chemistry
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Dimes
Social climber
Living in the past.
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Jul 17, 2009 - 03:45pm PT
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Since I will be home all weekend and have access to a bounty of "really good stuff-read slander" I need to get a consesus from the group of "are there any limits"?
Powell
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Loomis
climber
*_*
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Jul 17, 2009 - 03:47pm PT
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Dimes, inquiring minds want to know...
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rbolton
Social climber
The home for...
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Jul 17, 2009 - 04:16pm PT
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Kevin...need you even ask?
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Jul 17, 2009 - 04:18pm PT
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Post up Kevin; just remember that payback can be a bitch.
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Jul 17, 2009 - 04:31pm PT
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Dimes.... I respectfully ask that you do not include that horrifically well lighted picture of you $%*&#@** the Wahzoo at the base of the Pink Bug..... besides that one, let 'er rip!
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rbolton
Social climber
The home for...
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Jul 17, 2009 - 04:33pm PT
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Jan, not a really spooky threat coming from someone who looks like this.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Jul 17, 2009 - 05:12pm PT
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Bob, haven't you heard? I have been officially upgraded to an Evil Dwarf now. To quote the experts:
Dwarfs and Gnomes
The dwarfs and gnomes are very similars. They have the same life style, and both associate with the earth. The gnomes are smaller than dwarfs, and have their bodies more proportioned, like if they were tiny people. The capacity of gnomes and dwarfs to detect precious rocks can be because their acute sense of smell and their good taste.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 17, 2009 - 06:26pm PT
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Jan said: "Post up Kevin; just remember that payback can be a bitch. "
Payback ?
Nah: cuz' we're ANONYMOUS here.
That's the beauty of it...
It's your lead Kevin.
All the best,
Roy
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Nick
climber
portland, Oregon
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Jul 17, 2009 - 08:57pm PT
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Show us what you got Kevin! Waugh can take it. Besides our entertainment is paramount.
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jul 18, 2009 - 12:56pm PT
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Mike Waugh.....The original fun hog. Always ready to sandbag your ass, get a cheap laugh and then show you how to do it.
Climbing with Mike is always special.
See you-all in TM
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rbolton
Social climber
The home for...
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Jul 20, 2009 - 12:50pm PT
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Kevin, where are the goods? We need the sleeze.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Jul 20, 2009 - 02:04pm PT
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I can't believe anyone would actually expect Powell to deliver on his inane ramblings. Don't hold your breath. Were you people born yesterday or something? Get real. Has anyone ever seen him actually deliver the goods to back his advertising? Yeah, I thought not. For a bunch of old dudes that have supposedly been around since 1873 you sure are a gullable lot. Hell has 100% more chance of freezing over than you do of ever seeing anything. Talk about naive.
C'mon, give me a break.
Sheesh.
BTW: who's this Mikey guy?
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Jul 22, 2009 - 11:24am PT
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Man I hate it when Henny is right. KP just ain't got no guts.
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scuffy b
climber
Sinatra to Singapore
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Jul 22, 2009 - 01:28pm PT
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He's nice to me, and he's dear to a dear friend, what's
better than that?
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Ed Bannister
Mountain climber
Riverside, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 22, 2009 - 01:57pm PT
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Mike Waugh appreciation list...
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jul 22, 2009 - 02:06pm PT
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did somebody mention PINKBUG???
roobeedoo ftw!
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yeah right
Social climber
Los Angeles
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I had the opportunity to tag along with he and Brenda on a few of their trips to TM. Back in the mid '80's. Occasionally he would help me improve my pathetic climbing skills. I was able to share his campfire which attracted some pretty good climbers. During these times I had a front row seat to a view of some of the greatest climbers in the world. To listen to them, their attitudes, style, values influenced my approach to life and problems.
I remember my first lead in the Meadows, The Great White Book. For me, it was my first climb up there, the first time I lead multiple pitches without protection. That night I listened to everybody talk about the 5.13 routes that they were putting up and all that...then Mike turns to me and sez "well what did you do today, Ivan?" With some embarrasment I replied, "Great WHite Book". Expecting everyone to laugh. Instead they asked me about what I thought of it, how I liked climbing a pitch that yo couldnt protect. And as I shared my experience, everyone listened as though it didnt make a difference whether it was 5.6 or 5.12 but that what mattered that I was pushing some sort of limit. Working out of my zone of comfort. So I have carried that with me till this day. And I thank Mike and Brenda for some really great times and some really great memories.
Oh...and the bike ride preparing for the Mammoth Bike Race. From Mammoth Mountain, along 395, up Tioga Pass, through the Meadows, down into Yosemite Valley, I stopped at the tunnel and Mike cruised to Glacier Point. After the North Face of Mt San Jacinto in the winter the second greatest physical accomplishment of my life.
Oh...and then there was Jan M. :)
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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KP, what do you have to be afraid of? It's all gold dude.
I'm glad this thread resurfaced.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Waugh,.....wasssssup?
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mardi
Social climber
Malibou Lake, Agoura, California
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I certainly can appreciate Mike Waugh! He and Dan Hershman came to work for me at Granite Stairway in the 70's. Great sense of humor and what a brat! From the pix, I can see that glint in those baby blues. What an awesome climber and all around good guy.
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Ed Bannister
Mountain climber
Riverside, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 4, 2009 - 02:19pm PT
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Mike did you get back from the meadows??
and, after 18 years do you still remember the Frost photo was a loan?
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Ed, he ain't ever comin back. And at this point it is the wife you need to deal with.
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CynthiaL
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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I'll see if I can't get KP to post up some photos since he never came through the first time around
P.S. I don't know Mike very well yet, but he always seemed like a great guy!
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Sascha
climber
Sebastopol, CA
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Sep 23, 2009 - 12:37am PT
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I had the pleasure of meeting Mike in the Meadows a few days ago, after he had generously given my climbing partner a ride to Mammoth. Upon a friendly conversation in which he offered useful beta on various routes (and brilliant ideas such as, never mind that awful descent, just rap in and do the last pitch of the Third Pillar! Why didn't I ever think of that?) he joined me on a morning run up the Elizabeth Lake trail. He probably would've had time to work a Sunday crossword while waiting for me at the end of each steep section, but was a perfect gentleman about it. Dang, I thought I was slow huffing up the trail compared to that guy who just floated effortlessly... But now that I'm reading about Mike's athleticism, I don't feel so bad. Dude, you're awesome! See you next year!
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Mar 12, 2010 - 03:51pm PT
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Bump.
Mike has been shanghaied and is going to be out sailing from the Caribbean to Tahiti via the Galapagos Islands. He will return just in time for TM this summer.
So now would be a good time to roast him if you wish, as he will be out of range of the internet.
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EdBannister
Mountain climber
CA
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Mar 12, 2010 - 04:10pm PT
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Mike is going sailing with Jim....
wish i were on that trip!
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sac
Trad climber
spuzzum
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Mar 12, 2010 - 04:21pm PT
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Uuuuuh.... oops sorry.
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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Mar 14, 2010 - 11:37am PT
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well i would have to agree with everyone here that mike and brenda waugh are as good as people come...
always motivated and always willing to lend a hand..
as strong as the top climbers in their day but with out the ego and puff..
i have many a fond memories of hanging and climbing with mike in TM and last August was fortunate enough to reconnect with mike and brenda for an evening before the bachar memorial..
stay free and keep it real.
kurt
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EdBannister
Mountain climber
CA
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Mar 17, 2010 - 06:03pm PT
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bump for the sake of better subject matter
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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May 10, 2011 - 02:16am PT
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Waugh climbing on Geezer
the Stick clip sport wankers!
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Anastasia
climber
hanging from an ice pick and missing my mama.
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May 10, 2011 - 02:19am PT
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Bump for a billion good reasons...
Thanks Mike.
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EdBannister
Mountain climber
13,000 feet
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May 11, 2011 - 01:48pm PT
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One day climbing with Mike, i did one move, one move mind you easier than Mike did, I celebrated...
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