Discussion Topic |
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Fluoride
Trad climber
Hollywood, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 13, 2009 - 02:27pm PT
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I went up there last Sunday, PRISTINE!! The snow has melted off in the Portal. Doug's opened the weekend before last (his french fries are tasty and fresh and the Sierra Nevada's cold). Waterfalls are runnings, campgrounds are closed so the hiker throngs are MIA cause it's only the second weekend of permits. No fishermen cause the lake hasn't been stocked yet.
We have the place to ourselves! And it won't last long!
PERFECTION for day climbing up there. Easy camping in the A-Hills.
The food is cooking, Doug's place opened up the weekend before last. And no waiting in line or looking for a table outside.
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72hw
Trad climber
Pasadena, CA
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May 13, 2009 - 02:31pm PT
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Heading to Whitney / Russell second week of June - how did conditions look higher up? Still a lot of snow?
Can't wait to get up around the Portal!
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Fluoride
Trad climber
Hollywood, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 13, 2009 - 02:37pm PT
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Still snow approaching Outpost Camp higher up per hikers. Not sure about North Fork but you've still got almost a month of more snowmelt 72hw. It'll be a far different story then. Hope you have a great trip.
Here's a view looking up towards the Whitney hiking trail. But right now the Portal is in prime climing conditions!
And just a nice pic on the way up:
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LuckyPink
climber
the last bivy
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May 13, 2009 - 04:16pm PT
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woo HOO getting on it!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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May 13, 2009 - 04:39pm PT
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seriously nice posting job there
hrm, wonder if I can convince the uber to go all the way round
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susan peplow
climber
www.joshuatreevacationhomes.com
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May 13, 2009 - 04:40pm PT
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Russ and I were there a few weeks ago and scored as the store was open for burgers and the best dirty fries on the eastside.
The water should be on for the cabins now and the campground opening up soon (still no host or water when we were there)
Had the place to ourselves except for one other cabin owner.
Weather was fantastic and with the new guide you're on your way to climbing some of the most pristine stone around.
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spyork
Social climber
A prison of my own creation
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May 13, 2009 - 04:47pm PT
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Damn, that stone looks good. Too bad I have no life ...
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salad
climber
Escondido
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May 13, 2009 - 05:23pm PT
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ill be up there next weekend.
MUNGE.
edit - not sure what i can get done on rock. possible broken left hand.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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May 13, 2009 - 06:01pm PT
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I don't know. The place sounds kind of suspect to me. Longish approaches, some sugar rock around, and Bartlett / Slate / Harrington runouts.
Just saying.
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Vulva, Wyoming
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May 13, 2009 - 06:02pm PT
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Two Words: Death Zone
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Redlands
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May 13, 2009 - 06:02pm PT
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Bony Fingers. Let's go.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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May 13, 2009 - 06:04pm PT
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oh yeah, Sal, aren't you anniversarying or sumpin?
In all likelihood, I probably won't head all the way down, but would be good to hang with you guys and maybe hike up to the little hill back there.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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May 13, 2009 - 06:09pm PT
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Portal Buttress, Moonstone, Hairpin Wall, El Segundo, and Premier Buttress.
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Vulva, Wyoming
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May 13, 2009 - 06:11pm PT
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Hey Henny.... you gonna' bring your drilling set-up into the new century this year? sheesh....! Got the beta whenever you think the time is right.
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salad
climber
Escondido
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May 13, 2009 - 06:14pm PT
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anni is june. its tessa's burfday and she has requested a trip to the mtns. love that lil girl.
shane didnt want to go to lone pine. he is scared of that big painted rock off of portal road. he decided it would be ok to go the lp if he could get of the car and call the painted rock a 'jelly bean head'. classic.
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Mtnmun
Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
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May 13, 2009 - 09:29pm PT
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Nice photo's Floride. The waterfalls and granite walls are very inspiring. Where is that water cascade?
I'm heading to the eastern Sierra this weekend to climb and work on oil paintings of stream scenes. Need a climbing partner anyone?
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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May 13, 2009 - 11:07pm PT
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Looks good!
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Fluoride
Trad climber
Hollywood, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2009 - 04:32am PT
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Mtnmun it's the waterfall past Doug's as you're cruising the parking loop next to the lake. It's on the right. The water just to touch it felt sooooo good! Cold and fresh. And that amazing alpine spring smell in the air. I love this time of year.
And those dirty fries are so tasty.
And the rock is so stellar.
Sooze - sweet digs there!
Glad you guys liked the pics. It was so perfect up there I just wanted to share, hope some of you get up there now while the time is prime to climb! Cheers all.
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F10
Trad climber
e350
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May 14, 2009 - 09:03am PT
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The place is great, good rock and you can't beat the views!!!
Not so sure about some of those runout face routes, you have to admire them at the same time. Talk about huevos,
Nice photos Beth, now I am all fired up to get back up there
Here's a couple of photos taken last year on the Premier Buttress,
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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May 14, 2009 - 10:37am PT
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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May 14, 2009 - 11:19am PT
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I guess it's just me, but I've never have been too impressed with the rock in the Portal area. There's lots of it, and it sure looks good in pictures and from the road, but up close, it's kinda chossy and there's lots of blank (unclimbable)rock. And with the exception of Bony Fingers, there's not too many crack climbs. Am I missing something?
What are the best routes? The one's I've tried were pretty grainy, and serious to lead, but that was 10 or so years ago.
And there's those great big crags by Olancha, same kind of rock as the Portal though.
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rbolton
Social climber
The home for...
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May 14, 2009 - 02:10pm PT
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Ummmm...What henny said.
Really, the rock is chossy, camping is almost nonexistant, the bugs are starting to come on right about now, Hensel's routes are all death traps, the approaches are murder, and the cabin owners are ALL psychos. Think Deliverance. Really. Nothing to see here...move along, move along.
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Fluoride
Trad climber
Hollywood, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2009 - 02:16pm PT
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Great pics F10!!
Fred Beckey did the FA of Premier Buttress back in the day when he was working at a paper company here in LA in the early 70's. He came up on weekends and bagged those routes.
He did the FA's of some classic Portal stuff and he also named the buttresses. I asked him why Premier and he said "well, it's the first buttress coming into the Portal." I think El Segundo Buttress was named after his partner's residence at the time.
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Fluoride
Trad climber
Hollywood, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2009 - 02:26pm PT
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Oh and Rob don't worry, Marty's new guidebook put this all out there so the can of worms is opened.
But the masses aren't going to make the drive and effort. Runouts, altitude, the unknown...it's only going to be a destination for those of us who want it.
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CJanet
climber
Los Angeles, CA
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May 14, 2009 - 03:23pm PT
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Is anyone interested and available for climbing Memorial Day weekend, Friday through Monday? I'd like to drive up from LA and check out the climbing at Whitney Portal and Mammoth Lakes (and stuff in between if it's not too hot). My dates are flexible within that range as well.
I lead 5.8 trad and 5.10 sport, follow hard 5.10s on sport and trad, and boulder about V2-ish. Minimal trad rack (singles of .4 to 3, one set of nuts), 60m rope, and giant crash pad.
Would also like to hit up the hot springs at some point during the weekend :)
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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May 14, 2009 - 04:09pm PT
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2 words : boob scrapage*
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mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
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May 14, 2009 - 04:39pm PT
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...and with the new guide you're on your way to climbing some of the most pristine stone around.
Props to Russ and crew for the great routes at The Portal. Sampled one them .10b's put up last year. Righteous!
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rbolton
Social climber
The home for...
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May 14, 2009 - 04:48pm PT
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That Russ is a slab climbing ANIMAL!
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rbolton
Social climber
The home for...
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May 14, 2009 - 05:37pm PT
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Hensel is just dangerous, PERIOD. You want this guy perving around your tent at night? I think not.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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May 14, 2009 - 05:45pm PT
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yup to what the rest said (er, cept that last post. hope these guys know each other. ;) )
 and I want to get on that Uphus/Cramer route. anyone done it recently?
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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May 14, 2009 - 06:54pm PT
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"The BEARS are horrendous!!! "
Yep, one time I came back to my truck after a long day of climbing on WPB, and Bear46 had been chewing on my weather stipping, after he put paw prints and drool all over my doors and windows.
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rmuir
Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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May 14, 2009 - 10:53pm PT
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Somewhere in the Portal:
Stay away from these guys! They can really make a mess, but the job gets done!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jul 27, 2009 - 04:28pm PT
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possibly out of date range, but bump for climbing
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susan peplow
climber
www.joshuatreevacationhomes.com
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Jul 27, 2009 - 04:55pm PT
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I hear that guy in the pink shirt and green shorts can really lay some asphalt shingles. Can't dress himself but can sure swing a hammer.
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Jim Lawyer
climber
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Jul 27, 2009 - 05:04pm PT
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Tom Yandon following P3, No Country For Old Men, a very long layback.
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gonzo chemist
climber
the Orange Curtain
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Jul 30, 2009 - 09:14pm PT
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Whitney Portal is all choss. No good routes to be found there...none anywhere.
on Tanager Crack (5.10b)
on Pumpy Woof (5.9)
Darshan on PW
-N
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Bargainhunter
Mountain climber
Central California
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Jul 30, 2009 - 09:31pm PT
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Killer post!
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Jul 30, 2009 - 10:22pm PT
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Jul 30, 2009 - 11:36pm PT
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Don't believe the pictures that make it look like there's good climbing in the Portal. It's all smoke and mirrors. Nothing but choss. Nothing but pure, unadulterated, hideous choss.
The Portal Buttress
Pitch 1
Pitch 2 (note the "solid" hanging flakes)
Pitch 7
Pitch 7 "pro"
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The Wedge
Boulder climber
Bishop, CA
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Jul 31, 2009 - 12:36pm PT
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Some of those upper pitches of the whitney portal butt. are as GOOD OF KNOB climbing as you would find in Toulumne, maybe better. Bring you board lasted shoes...NO slippers.
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jfailing
Trad climber
A trailer park in the Sierras
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Apr 19, 2010 - 11:49am PT
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The Portal is now open!! Bout that time of year again eh? Gonna start the season off right and do Bony Fingers today. Yee haw!!
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Thorgon
Big Wall climber
Sedr Woolley, WA
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Apr 19, 2010 - 12:59pm PT
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Be careful, you may have to rap off a piece of sage brush in a lightning storm!
Sketchy,
Thor
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Fluoride
Trad climber
Hollywood, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 19, 2010 - 01:02pm PT
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Whoa, blast from last season's past.
Hell yeah Will, Bony Fingers has our name on it. My favorite climb on the Eastside.
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gonzo chemist
climber
Crane Jackson's Fountain St. Theater
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May 11, 2010 - 07:10pm PT
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Anybody have the beta on No Country for Old Men? That layback pitch looks cool...
Where is it? On the Portal Buttress? How many pitches? Bolted anchors?
I don't have a guide to the east side, and MP.com doesn't have any info on it...
thanks,
-Nick
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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May 11, 2010 - 07:27pm PT
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that dude is doing a layback in Tennies!
burl
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The Wedge
Boulder climber
Bishop, CA
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May 11, 2010 - 09:30pm PT
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No country for old men 10c on the whitney portal buttress. Its in the new bishop book. Tunnels behind rock for a pitch. Kinda like Tunnel Vision in RR. Lots of bolt, bring a rack, and two 60m ropes to get off............NO, one 70m will not work.
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Anastasia
Mountain climber
hanging from a crimp and crying for my mama.
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May 11, 2010 - 10:10pm PT
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A heart warming BUMP! Got to love the pics!
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krahmes
Social climber
LP
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May 31, 2010 - 04:27pm PT
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GR
The hardest 5.6 of my life:
MM away on P3:
Myles at the SnoCone Machine:
Candlelight Buttress:
Thor Mountain:
MM adrift:
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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May 31, 2010 - 05:19pm PT
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That tunnel through on Ghostrider is cool, best pitch on the route.
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franky
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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May 31, 2010 - 06:11pm PT
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Ghost Rider is great. The Tunnel through is cool, The pitch after the tunnel cool with good face and good weird awkward widish crack action. the knobs are great too!
The bishop guide calls the tunnel through 5.9 by the way, which it seemed a bit soft for. maybe 5.8 sounds right. Also, the bishop guide says one of the face pitches way up high is 10a, but all the face pitches are comparable difficulty and probably 5.8. Also, there are less bolts than are shown on that topo, unless we missed a bunch!
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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May 31, 2010 - 10:03pm PT
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Can't believe there isn't more snow up there. Have at it folks before parking becomes an issue.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Yesss, photos of chosssy rock, very misssleading!
Ugly scene (kinda' like surfing), bad rock, mean locals, smart people stay home.
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Fluoride
Trad climber
Hollywood, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 1, 2010 - 01:10am PT
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I was up there this weekend. Gorgeous as ever. Weather was perfect. Actually saw a couple of other parties of climbers up there.
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Chinchen
climber
Way out there....
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Such a good thread! I can not tell you how happy I am to be moving to the area next month!
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froodish
Social climber
Portland, Oregon
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Snow wears down shingles at the Portal...
And eventually they need to be replaced...
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Wow Fluoride, missed you by a mere hundred miles.
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kc
Trad climber
lg, ca
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Anyone been on top of Whitney yet? Too much snow still, I'm guessing?
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tbailey
Trad climber
canoga park
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Sep 30, 2012 - 12:28am PT
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Yep been climbing there 20 years. nothing but crap, everybody stay away. heading back for more crap this week, Bony fingers is horrible, the wonderwall sucks,Alabama hills! now thats quality stone, go there instead.
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nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
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Sep 30, 2012 - 04:51pm PT
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Advance advertisement... I'm moving to LA in December. Whitney Portal will be my new Yosemite, and I don't have partners lined up yet. Maybe I'll have to suffer through winter climbing in Jtree for a while first. Life is difficult.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 30, 2012 - 05:41pm PT
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Get Doug to do the rockcourse, attend, meet Miles and Amy. Problem solved!
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jfailing
Trad climber
PDX, North Slope, The Open Road
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May 17, 2013 - 04:06pm PT
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It's that time of year again... Missing my friends in Lone Pine.
Here are some shots of climbing in the Portal (for climbing content of course):
Laybacking on Gangway
Plugging gear on one of the best finger cracks around - Bony Fingers
The Portal at sunset
Local hard-woman Amy Ness following the 2nd pitch of Gangway (yeah I definitely aided it)
Come on Donny, look a little more stoked...
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