For Posterity: Your First Ascents

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
This thread has been locked
Messages 1 - 76 of total 76 in this topic
MisterE

Trad climber
One Step Beyond!
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 28, 2009 - 12:16am PT
I think there is one or two - Gotta go back a bit...

Nothing in Yosemite, sadly.
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Mar 28, 2009 - 12:28am PT
Nada, Nothin'. Nope. Just on the shoulders of
everyone else. . .

And I love it!!!!1111
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Mar 28, 2009 - 12:29am PT
Please leave my posterior out of this.
G_Gnome

Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
Mar 28, 2009 - 01:50am PT
Yeah, I have a few. Some I can't do any more, some I don't like anymore, a few are really nice. More pain involved than I ever would have thought. I don't do that much anymore, it's definitely more fun to climb than pound bolts.
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Mar 28, 2009 - 02:13am PT
are you volunteering to keep a list. Erik?
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Mar 28, 2009 - 02:54am PT
5.0 - 5.5

1. Muff Divers H. Starr, C. Bransford, others
2. Tapeworm F.S.
3. Yellow Peril T. Tech
4. Pregnant Missing Woman T. Tech , Robert
5. Pork Circus A. Gordon, T. Tech
6. Men with Cow's Heads B. Sillasen, T. Atherton
7. Unwiped Butt B. Sillasen, A. Bartlett, C. Fry, C. Bransford
8. Shagadelic G. Armstrong, M. Hind
9. Hueco Thanks T. Gordon
10. Tang A. Roberts

5.6

1. Iranian Party Hat T. Tech, C. Gorsky
2. Captain Standish T. Tech
3. Jack T. Tech
4. Fixed Bayonets T. Tech
5. Self Abuse A. Bartlett
6. Solar Technology C. Fry, D. Evans, J. Angione, B. Sillasen, A. Bartlett, C. Bransford
7. Shagaholic G. Armstrong, M. Hind
8. Roach Roof M. Lechlinski
9. Talus Phallus C. Dolnick
10. The Stiffy C. Bransford, R. Vogel, S. Vogel, T. Burke, Maria, Linda, K. Bransford, H. Star
11. Cereal Killer T. Swain



5.7

1. Chicken Run G. Armstrong, Suzette Olsen, Karoosh
2. Screaming Cactus T. Sartin, C. Dillon
3. Gourmet Sausage D. Reid, T. Tech
4. Mission Bells C . Bransford, S. Orr, T. Sartin, E. Brognan, Fonzie
5. S A R S S. Olsen
6. Robotussin S. Olsen
7. 310 lb. Rosie Collapses T. Tech, Robert
8. Irish Toothache T. Tech, Dara
9. Marquess of Lorn T. Tech, L. Butts, Dara
10. Steamy Sluts and Farm Animals T. Tech, B. Povolny
11. Crossroads Finish Stacy
12. Britney Spears T. Tech, G. Armstrong
13. Gatorade Boy G. Armstrong
14. Weo J. Middendorf, G. Hiskes, T. Tech
15. Keep the Worm Firm T. Tech, Cora, Blitzo, G. Armstrong, John
16. Minotaur A. Bartlett
17. Dr. Seuss Vogel C. Boyd
18. Big Bird C. Boyd
19. Overbite K. Ogle, T. Tech
20. Nose Goblin B. Allen, T. Tech
21. The Incredible Shrinking Nose T. Tech
22. Commander Cody C. Dolnick
23. Leap Year Flake C. Bransford
24. Worthwhile Pile A. Roberts
25. Slanta Claus left A. Roberts
26. Skippy the Mudskipper C. Bransford, B. Stokes, B. Christie




5.8

1. Metal Highway Brian , Jenn, S. Orr, R. Raker, A. Bunge
2. Volga Boat Men B. Sillasen, D. Wright
3. Thomson Roof R. Thompson, S. Gordon, M. Brown, H. Boyd
4. Outward Bound Slab Route M. Brown, R. Thomson, H. Boyd, S. Gordon
5. Tuscon Bound A. Roberts
6. Asian Fever T. Tech
7. Hollywood Diet Disasters T. Tech, Robert
8. Randy T. Tech
9. Los Dos G. Epperson
10. Binder T. Tech, G. Armstrong
11. Camp X-Ray T. Tech, G. Epperson
12. Reverend Blitzo's Hairles Boys Choir T. Tech
13. Buck Blitzo, John, Cora, S. Olsen, Chad
14. I Love Brian Piccalo Q. Mc Cleod, B. Sillasen
15. Kate's Bush D. Evans, M. Floyd, D. Gray, J. Angione, E. Charlton, S. Gordon
16. Jane Pauley T. Michael
17. Bryant Gumbel C. Dolnick
18. Aquino D. Evans
19. Grain Surplus A. Bartlett, B. Sillasen
20. Anointed Seagull T. Atherton
21. Wet Pigeon B. Sillasen, J. Angione, D. Evans, A. Bartlett
22. Flat Tire A. Bartlett
23. Grab My Sac for a Toy T. Tech, T. Burke, A. Gordon
24. The Fabulous T. Gordex Cracks T. Gordon
25. Climb of the Coachroaches M. Lechlinski, M. Gingery, C. Bransford, J. Wonderly
26. I-Go-Go-E C. Bransford, P. Nay, D. Adler, D. Reinich, J. Reinich, K. Roseme, M. Rossner, M. Rossner, J. Rossner, T. Burke, D. Evans, K. Lund
27. Night Gallery M. Floyd, J. Angione, D. Evans
28. Karlis Crack K. Ogle, T. Tech
29. Hernie, Hernie, Hernie C. Bransford
30. Perhaps the Surgeion General A. Bartlett
31. Limpy Grandma T. Burke, A. Gordon
32. Possum Pie B. Haslam
33. Arturo's Arete Arturo, A. Tomaszewski
34. Butterfingers Make Me Horny C. Bransford
35. Slanta Claus Right A. Roberts
36. Christian Bonnington Spire A Bartlett
37. Masochism D. Reinich, T. Burke, C. Bransford



5.9

1. Mimo Provoz J. Wilson
2. Dig the Well, Build the Cabin R. Thompson
3. Karoosh's Wedding Crack G. Armstrong, Karoosh, S. Olsen
4. My Love Affair with a Wheelbarrow Becca, T. Burke, T. Tech
5. Hibiscus Shuffle Becca, T. Burke, T. Tech
6. Finger in a Blender B. Gaines, T. Tech, F. Haney
7. Women in Peril T. Tech
8. Bank Note Blues A. Roberts
9. River Phoenix G. Armstrong
10. Techno Sporran G. Armstrong
11. Frank Shorter L. Thomson
12. E. T. Bonne Homme C. Bransford
13. Daravader T. Tech, Dara
14. Bull with Gas T. Tech
15. Gandy T. Tech
16. Mike Hunt T. Tech
17. The Raccoon B. Allen
18. Chicken Mechanics B. Sillasen
19. Thigh Master T. Tech, T. Burke
20. Vorpal Sword B. Sillasen, T. Atherton
21. Hot Crystals B. Sillasen, T. Atherton
22. Treadmark Right A. Bartlett
23. Mike Fink D. Adler, T. Burke, C. Bransford, D. Evans, D. Reinich, J. Reinich, M. Rossner, J. Rossner
24. I'd Slap You But Sh#t Splatters D. Gray
25. Golden Years C. Bransford, J. Angione, D. Evans, M. Floyd
26. Spoodle B. Povolny, S Strong, T. Michael
27. 976 D. Evans, M. Floyd, J. Angione, C. Bransford
28. Ravens do Nasty Things to my Bottom D. Evans
29. Biological Clock D. Evans, K. Duke, D. Hensel, A. Bartlett
30. Dos Perro Negros P. Brennan, D. Evans
31. Happy Happy Joy Joy T. Michael, S. Bocks, D. Dixon, Jeff
32. Carlos C. Bransford
33. Soul Research B. Sillasen
34. Life without T V A. Bartlett, V. Pelton
35. Jumar of Flesh A. Roberts , B. Sillasen
36. Chocolate is Better Than Sex C. Bransford
37. Fat Free C. Bransford, T. Sartin, A. Rogers
38. My First First A. Bartlett, T. Atherton, V. Pelton
39. Gritty Kitty C. Bransford
40. Capt. Stupor's Troopers A. Bartlett
41. The Humidor A. Bartlett
42. Sexy Grandma B. Gaines, A. Gordon, B. Russell
43. Yei-Bei-Chei Crack D. Evans, K. Carrignan
44. Fom Here to Infirmary T. Swain
45. Hot Tubs from Hell T. Swain
46. Hanging Turd of Babylon A. Gordon



5.10 a/b

1. John's Ginger Tufties C. Bransford, Jason Porter
2. B For Beers M. Brown, C. Fry
3. James Brown Celebrity Hot Tub Party G. Archer, Alan Bartlett
4. The Right-Handed Dyke R. Thompson, Karen Long, Linda Marin
5. Reggie on a Poodle R. Thompson, M. Brown, H. Boyd, S. Gordon
6. The Booger Man T. Tech
7. Ass Gasket T. Tech, C. Gorsky
8. G. H. B. G. Armstrong
9. Science Experiments You Can Eat C. Bransford, S. Orr
10. Ben's Magic Weenie T. Tech, M. Synott
11. Glass Onion T. Tech
12. Old Hornington T. Tech
13. The Bazooka S. Olsen
14. Love Gas T. Tech, T. Burke
15. Yasmine Bleath T. Tech, T. Burke
16. Dos Chi Chis T. Tech, K. Burnham, G. Epperson, R. Corbin, G. Armstrong
17. Toby T. Tech, M. Hoffman
18. Blitzo Crack T. Tech
19. The Lemon Head C. Fry, M. Floyd
20. Heavy Meadow B. Elliot, C. Bransford
21. Pear/Grape Route T. Michael
22. Ganado S. Sadlier, D. Evans, C. Fry, M. Floyd
23. Stains of the Stars T. Swain, Derrick
24. Chestwig D. Evans, M. Floyd, J. Angione, S. Gordon, E. Charlton
25. Powered Toast Man C. Bransford
26. Busy Beaver B. Gaines
27. Unnamed (Beaver Dam) D. Reid, A. Bartlett
28. Imelda's New Shoes T. Swain, E. Anderson, A. Bartlett
29. Marcos D. Evans
30. Stop Trundling T. Gordon
31. Moon Your Neighbor S. Parker, A. Bartlett
32. Fantasy of Light B. Sillasen, A. Bartlett
33. Treadmark Left A. Bartlett
34. Santa's Magic Lap C. Miller
35. Burkulator T. Tech, T. Burke
36. Weener Dude G. Armstrong, M Hind
37. A Dog in Heat is Hard to Beat T. Tech, K. Ogle
38. Puto de Yo Yo T. Tech, M. Synott
39. Karlis' White Ass A. Tomaszewski
40. Poodle-oids form the Deep D. Evans
41. Fusion Without Integrity P. Brennan, D. Vaught, F. Bentwood, Q. McCleod
42. Foot Massage D. Adler, R. White, C. Bransford, P. Nay, K. Roseme
43. Norm D. Adler, C. Bransford, J. Angione, B. Haslam, S. Alford
44. I Forgot to Have Babies D. Hensel, D. Evans, K. Duke
45. Poon A. Roberts
46. Gettysburger K. Sisler, T. Atherton
47. Bandersnatch C. Dolnick
48. Touchy feely T. Swain
49. Six-Pack Crack A. Roberts, B. Sillasen, Bob
50. Fissura Luis
51. Pete Fountain Crack A. Bartlett, P. Johnston
52. Celebrity Death Match A. Bartlett, D. Reid, K. Lund, D. Reinich, L. Colella, M. Kelly
53. Butt Buttress D. Evans, M Floyd, M. Brown, T. Petterson
54. I Can't Believe it's a Girl B. Gaines, M. Loehr
55. Upper Cow A. Roberts
56. Sacred Cow A. Roberts
57. Slanta Claus Center A. Roberts
58. N. Face of the Eiger A. Roberts
59. Walker Spur A. Roberts
60. I Love Snakes V. Pelton, M. Floyd
61. Give a Mouse a Cookie C. Bransford, G. Armstrong
62. Rock Out with your C*#k Out P. Brennan
63. Bats with A I D S D. Evans, B. Elliott
64. Mt. Witness C. Bransford
65. Reverend Dick Shook T. Tech
66. Pee Wee's Piton B. Gaines, D. Addis
67. Cyndie's Brain T. Swain
68. Jacuzzi of No Return T. Swain
69. Hot Tub of Death T. Swain
70. Amanda G. Armstrong
71. Blake ( We Never Get The Girls) S. Powers, F. Haney, T. Pinar
72. Female Mud Massacre M. Floyd
73. Biscuit Eater D Evans, K. Carignan
74. I Fought the Ants and The Ants Won R. Briggs
75. Goolabunga D. Evans, J. Angione, C. Bransford
76. Handygland A. Gordon, N. Sheber



5.10 c/d

1. Girls in the Mist D. Evans
2. Sen Blen T. Michael
3. Dimpled Chad T. Tech, M Synott
4. The Fugitive D. Evans, S. Lennard
5. Boog's Route D. Bruckman, D. Evans
6. Manicured Bush B. Gaines
7. The Talking Fish T. Beck
8. Holly Device T. Michael, M. Walters, J. Jarvi
9. Lewd and Lascivious Conduct T. Swain
10. Ceremony D. Evans, C. Fry, J. Angione, B. Sillasen, C. Bransford
11. Hot Buttered Elves C. Miller
12. Barfing at Zelda's T. Michael, M. Walters
13. Horn Dog D. Evans, M. Floyd, B. Povolny, R. Perez, C. Bransford
14. The Three Best Friends Your Car Ever Had R. Vogel, J. Angione
15. Crotch Putty T. Tech, Sean
16. Free Bubba John T. Atherton
17. The Wolfman A. Bartlett, B. Allen, M. Wilson, T. Atherton
18. Ahoj R. Bedan, B. Dolge, T. Atherton, Phil, Beth
19. Clive Live R. White, D. Reinig
20. Badger's Choff Piece N. Conway, S. Critchlow
21. Liquid Rats, B. Elliott, D. Evans, J. Angione
22. Shana Grant B. Gaines, T. Swain
23. Marooned C. Bransford
24. The Wonderful World of Art R. McClenahan
25. Hands Up T. Gordon
26. Slim Jim J. Angione, D. Evans
27. Grey Cell Green D. Wilson
28. Oat Cuisine T. Swain
29. Land of the Long White Cloud J. Madgwick
30. Skinwalker D. Evans
31. Pretzel Logic D. Evans
32. Kalkowski Crack M. Kalkowski



5.11

1. History Brian Sillasen, F. Bentwood
2. The Leg Lifter S. Strong, T. Michael
3. Smarter Than the Average Ranger R. Vogel
4. Mandarina B. Gaines, D. Reinich
5. Pump up the Volume C. Bransford
6. Blackjack B. Gaines, Y. Gaines, C. Bransford
7. Pocket Pussy B. Sillasen, T. Atherton
8. R. S. Chicken Choker M. Lechlinski, T. Gilje, M. Gingery, S. Cosgrove
9. Bad Czech Girl R. Bedan
10. The Bullfighter B. Gaines, T. Romero
11. Puzzlin' Evidence D. Evans, C. Fry
12. Brother From Another Planet D. Evans
13. We Must Improve Our Bust D. Evans, R. Thomson
14. Me Mum Sh#t the Bed N. Conway
15. Worms in Your Brain J. Angione
16. Symbolic of Life T. Swain, T. Atherton, D. Mayville
17. The Ringwinker N. Conway, S. Critchlow
18. Breakdancing B. Gaines, M. Paul, W. Shipley, R. Powell, B. Micklish
19. Dinodamage R. Vogel, S. Vogel
20. Zygote D. Evans, J. Angione




Aid Climbs

1. Conqueror Worm D. Vaught
2. Army Armstrong T. Sartin
3. Some Like it Hot J. Murray
4. A Bolt, A Bashie, and a Bold Mantel C. Cole, D. Evans

262 total




1. K P's Pot Belly 5.5 A2 M. Loehr
2. Amature Sheep Shaggers (A. S. S.) 5.7 A3 G. Armstrong
3. Sleezy Morman A2/3 M. Ross
4. Hey McCleod, Get Off Of My Ewe A 2+ G. Armstrong
5. Jesus Saw You Take It 5.9 A3 F. Haney
6. Shu Poo A2 G. Armstrong, K. Burnham
7. Turd Burgler A2+ M. Weber
8. Kentucky Waterfall A 2+ T. Pinar
9. Tits on a Bull 5.11- T. Tech
10. Booby Love 5.11 T. Tech, T. Pinar
11. Paris Hilton 5.11 T. Burke
12. Derrick's Route (King Dome) 5.10c D. Reinig, T. Tech
13. Riding The Cotton Pony 5.11 T. Tech, T. Burke
14. Dirty Pinch 5.11 M Synek, Martin, T. Tech, Eileen
15. Matt's Arete 5.11 M.Hind, T. Tech
16. Honkey Justice 5.11 (A1) R. Vogel, , C Bransford, Craig
17. Milk Arete 5.11 C. Bransford
18. Randy The Riveter 5.8 T. Swain
19. Rumblers Below the Foof 5.3 P. Buckey, C. Bransford, D. Phillips
20. Like My Lump 5.10a D. Evans, M. Floyd
21. The Conundrum 5.11c T. Beatty
22. The Todd Squad 5.11a T. Beatty
23. Gordoba 5.10c A. Bartlett, P. Brennan
24. Land of Wonder 5.10c A. Bartlett, D. Evgans, J. Angione, P. Brennan
25. Matt Biondi Chimney 5.5 F. S.
26. Body Shaving For Competition 5.9 J. Angione, D. Evans, C. Fry, T. Burke
27. Icon 5.10c D. Evans, T. Beatty, J. Angionee, T. Burke, T. Beck, C. Fry
28. Johnnie Come Lately 5.10+ D. Wonderly, D. Evans, C. Fry, S. Lennard
29. Glue Rhymes With Poo 5.10a D. Evans, M. Floyd, H. Morrison, M. Rodrigue
30. That's Powell, Not Rowell 5.10a K. Powell, M. Rodrigue, E. Evans
31. Fah-Q 5.10c T. Tech
32. The Da Vinci Code 5.10c T. Tech, T. Pinar
33. Fugly 5.10+ T. Tech, S. Powers
34. Erotic Driving 5.11 (5.10+ A1) T. Tech, B. Shilliday
35. Wierd Wall (Center) 5.10c (T R ) T. Tech
36. Hayfield Crack 5.10+ T. Tech, G. Epperson, T. Burke, Jack
37. Wet Behind, Dry Wallet 5.10c T. Tech, Becca, M. Weber
38. Craig 5.10+ T. Tech, C. Fry, D. Evans, T. Burke, R. Stahl
39. The Green Vinyl 5.10+ T. Tech
40. The Gay Germans 5.10c T. Tech, Locker
41. Celine 5.10+ T. Tech, F. Haney, T. Pinar
42. Martin Luther's Thing 5.10c T. Tech
43. Isles in Sky T R 5.10+ F. Haney
44. Reggie Dome new Route 5.10+ S. Powers, T. Tech
45. Clifton Giblet 5.10c T. Tech, S. Powers
46. Leon Redbone 5.10c T. Tech, S. Powers
47. I Pee in Pools 5.10c T. Tech
48. Nuptial Sac 5.10c T. Burke, T. Tech
49. Udi 5.10+ J. Collela, T. Burke
50. One Eyed Frog 5.10+ T. Tech
51. O W by Ground Ron 5.10+ T. Tech
52. Blow 5.10c F. Haney
53. Baby Pillows 5.10c T. Tech, Cora, Blitzo
54. Get off My Sister 5.10+ T. Tech, M. Synek, Danny, T. Burke
55. Dimpled Chad 5.10c T. Tech, M. Synek
56. Kalkoski Crack 5.10+ M . Kalkoski, G. Armstrong
57. Butt Nugget 2000 5.10+ T. Tech
58. Saving Ryan's Privates 5.10c T. Tech, Matt
59. Potatoe Gun 5.10+ Arturo
60. Mane Resolution 5.11 D. Reinig
61. Buttered Chicken 5.10c J. Wilson
62. K. P. Finger Crack (Galapogas) 5.10+ K. Powell
63. Soapy Tit Wank 5.10+ N. Conway
64. Right Appendectomy 5.10+ T. Michael
65. Phallograph 5.10- B. Chambers, R. Ashbachar, Stephan, T. Tech, Blitzo
66. Knight of the Iron Sausage 5.10b T. Tech, Will, B. Shilliday
67. Crimpergirl 5.10- J. Adams, T. Tech, Blitzo, K. Henderson, Will
68. Blo the Scro 5.10b T. Tech, Will
69. Alleuz, Didieau 5.10- T. Tech, R. Ashbachar, Will , Blitzo
70. Sinking the Bismark 5.10- T. Tech
71. Baby Tool 5.10b T. Pinar, B. Pinar, T. Tech
72. Proper B. T. 5.10b B. Spears, B. Shilliday, W. Stark, T. Tech
73. Oral Sturgeon 5.10b T. Tech, K. Burnham
74. My Balls Feel Like a Pair of Marachas 5.9 R. Adler
75. The Teabag 5.10b T. Tech
76. Jimmy Biggerstaff 5.10b T. Tech
77. D. E. Route (Hayfield) D. Evans, Rico, T. Burke, T. Tech
78. Feck 5.10- T. Tech
79. Pope in a Box 5.10b T. Tech, T. Burke
80. Connected at the Liver 5.10- T. Tech, T. Burke, L . Lavoire
81. Sharon Stone T. Tech, K. Henderson, T. Burke, Blitzo, M. Heinz
82. Krystal Ball 5.10- T. Tech, M. Weber
83. Re-Todd Gore-Dumb 5.10- T. Tech, T. Burke
84. Bemp 5.10b T. Tech, T. Pinar
85. Make a Joyful Noise to the Lord 5.10-0 L. Lavoire, G. Lake, T. Tech, D. Reinig
86. Sponge Worthy 5.10b T. Pinar
87. Black Eel 5.10- T. Tech
88. Milk Face 5.10- T. Tech, T. Burke
89. More Than One Way to Skin a Cat 5.10b T. Tech
90. The Shank 5.10- T. Tech, T. Pinar, F. Haney, S. Powers
91. Peacoat Sleeve 5.10b T. Burke, L. Lavoire, T. Tech, A J Burch, D. Evans
92. All in the Family 5.10b T. Burke, T. Tech, L. Lavoire, S. Snyder, B. Shilliday, K. Bowl
93. Gordon Branch 5.10- T. Burke, K. Bowl, T. Tech, S. Snyder, L Lavoire, T. Pinar, B. Pinar
94. God Speed 5.10- T. Tech, L. Lavoire, T. Burke
95. Booby Love Arete 5.10- T. Pinar, T. Tech, Zack, Lori Butts
96. Reverend Dick Shook 5.10b T. Tech, G. Epperson
97. Open Winfrey 5.10b T. Tech, T. Burke
98. Wind Burn 5.10- T. Pinar
99. Yvonne 5.10b Ryan
100. Lil' Climber Chick 5.10b T. Tech, F. Haney
101. Barry Manilow 5.10- T. Tech, Ryan, Friend
102. Blake 5.10- S. Powers, F. Haney, T. Pinar, B. Pinar
103. Tiptoe to Topanga (F. Lead) 5.10b T. Tech, F. Haney, Jesse, B. Pinar, T. Pinar
104. Black Pearl 5.10b F. Haney, S. Powers
105. Ho Bag 5.10b T. Tech, T. Burke
106. No Glove, No Love 5.10b F. Haney, T. Tech
107. La Bella Kachina 5.10b T. Tech, D. Reinich
108. Tony Carbone 5.10b T. Tech, K. Burnham
109. Jen 5.10b T. Tech, Jenn, Billy
110. God Loves Nurses 5.10b T. Tech, G. Armstrong, Billy
111. The Beating Heart 5.10b G. Armstrong
112. How Deep is Ben's Love 5.10b T. Tech, , Blitzo, Cora, John, Graham
113. Marsupial Lust 5.10- T. Tech, D. Reinich, T. Burke
114. Bury the Pickle 5.10b T. Tech, T. Burke
115. Eat Me Volumne 23 5.10b T. Tech, T. Burke
116. Devil's Butthole 5.10b T. Tech
117. Stink Finger 5.10b T. Burke, T. Tech
118. Butt Nugget 2000 5.10b T. Tech, T. Wolfen
119. Like it or Lump It 5.10b T. Tech, T. Burke
120. Let's F*#k the Crack Whore 5.10- T. Tech, N. Miller, A. Gordon, S. Olsen
121. Lumberjack 5.10b A. Gordon, J. Star, Trevor, K. Potts
122. Shoeless Joe Jackson 5.10- D. Adler
123. Turkey Lips 5.10b G. Epperson, M. Loehr, John
124. Loaded Diaper 5.10- E. Evans, M. Floyd, G. Armstrong, C. Bransford, L. Thompson
125. Power Shopping 5.10- M. Loehr, D. Reinig
126. Burl Ives 5.10- T. Burke, P. Nay, K. Roseme
127. Octapussy 5.10- C. Miller
128. Leather Community 5.10- B. Stokes, C. Bransford, D. Adler, Dan, Page
129. Huh-huh-huh-huh-huh-huh 5.10- T. Michael
130. Lubricated Goat 5.10b B. Elliot
131. Mo Better Births 5.10- R. Thomson
132. Elvis Impersonators and Traveling Priests 5.10- C. Bransford, N. Miller
133. Marv the Mangler 5.9 T. Tech, R. Ashbachar, K. Henderson, Will, M. Lopez
134. Urdu 5. 9 T. Tech, W. Stark
135. Bumpus Hell 5.9 T. Tech, B. Spears, B. Shilliday
136. Eat Beluga 5.9 T. Pinar, B. Pinar, T. Tech
137. Red, White, and Boys T. Tech
138. Guam 5.9 T. Tech, S. Powers, Jade, Locker, K. Henderson, Pooner
139. Big Ass Ellie May 5.9 T. Tech
140. Have a Ball 5.9 T. Tech, Blitzo, Mark Weber, K. Henderson
141. Testicle Festival 5.9 T. Tech, Blitzo M. Weber, K. Henderson
142. May a Dike Grow Out of Your Forehead 5.9 T. Tech, Demetri, B. Shilliday
143. Electric Parade 5.9 T. Tech, Becca
144. Timber Wolf 5.9 T. Tech, T. Burke
145. The Liver is Evil 5.9 T. Pinar, T. Tech, Becca
146. Kidney Boy 5.9 T. Pinar
147. Cat , The Other White Meat 5.9 T. Tech, S. Powers
148. Win Dixie 5.9 T. Tech
149. The Little Man in the Boat 5.9 T. Tech, T. Burke
150. I Love Animals, They Taste Good 5.9 T. Tech
151. Eva Las Vegas 5.10- T. Tech, E. Fitts
152. Oh Frenchie Wee Wee Gee in Sept. 5.9 T. Tech, G. Armstrong
153. The Iron Chef 5.9 T. Tech, D. Reinig
154. Babaloos 5.9 T. Tech, T. Burke, Eileen
155. Ben Gay 5.9 John
156. Sabina 5.9 G. Armstrong
157. Never Shake a Baby 5.9 M. Synek, A. Gordon
158. Rick Rockwell 5.9 Tim
159. Loose Man 5.9 T. Tech
160. Cooter 5.9 T. Tech, M. Synek
161. Copulator 5.9 T. Tech, T. Burke, K. Ogle
162. Bad Cop, No Donut T. Tech, T. Burke, K. Ogle
163. Matt Gay 5.8 + A. Tomaszewski
164. A Trip to the Tip 5.9 C. Bransford, G. Armstorng
165. Ring Stinger 5.9 C. Bransford, D. Adler
166. Loud But Deadly 5.9 T. Burke
167. Blaat 5.9 T. Burke
168. Bee's Swarm 5.9 Dave
169. Montclair 5.9 Dave, C. Bransford, K. Duke
170. Land, you Idiot, Land 5.9 C. Bransford, Dave, K. Duke
171. Hearsay 5.9 D. Reid, C. Bransford
172. Horizon 5.9 D. Reid
173. Cyanide Life 5.9 D. Reid, C. Bransford
174. Bizarre Limbo 5.9 D. Reid, C. Bransford
175. Flaming Doobries 5.9 G. Armstrong
176. Cloth Ears 5.9 R. Powell, I. Katz, J. Jurachek, G. Armstrong, C. Miller, C. Bransford
177. You Are Helga, I am Sven 5.9 D. Wilson, K. Wilson, A. Bartlett, L. Christie, J. Christie
178. Doctor, Doctor, Doctor 5.9 B. Povolny
179. Cling Tenatiously to My Buttocks 5.9 N. Miller, C. Bransford
180. Jake Ass T. Tech, K. Henderson, J. Adams, Will
181. McStain 5.8 T. Pinar, B. Pinar
182. Nic Traverse 5.8 W. Stark , T. Tech
183. Granny Panties 5.8 F. Haney, T. Pinar, B. Pinar, Becca, T. Tech, others
184. Do you Believe in Leprachans? 5.8 F. Haney, T. Pinar, B. Pinar, Becca, T. Tech, others
185. Underware Gnome 5.8 F. Haney, T. Pinar, B. Pinar, Becca, T. Tech, others
186. Screw the Pooch 5.8 T. Tech, T. Pinar
187. Dig for Fire 5.8 T. Tech, W. Stark, L. Lavoire
188. Monkey Gone to Heaven 5.8 T. Tech, W. Stark, L. Lavoire
189. I Eat Crayons 5.8 T. Tech, S. Powers
190. D. Haney 5.8 T. Tech, T. Pinar, B. Pinar
191. Broke Back Burke 5.8 T. Tech, W. Stark
192. Bird Eating Spyder 5.8 K. Burnham, K. Henderson, T. Tech
193. Kentucky Waterfall Corner 5.8 T. Tech,
194. Wonder Valley Crag 5.8 T. Tech, Jade, Blitzo, etc.
195. Liver Brothers 5.8 E. Hawkins, T. Tech, T. Burke
196. Pull on the Flesh 5.8 E. Evans, T. Tech, T. Burke, Jack
197. Eddy 5.8 T. Tech, F. Haney, Friend
198. Colon Bowell 5.8 T. Pinar, B. Pinar, Zack, T. Tech, Locker, Jacob
199. Condom Leaves a Rice 5.8 T. Pinar, T. Tech, Jacob, Locker, B. Pinar, Zack
200. Andrea Yates 5.8 T. Tech, T. Pinar
201. Everyone But Larry 5.8 T. Tech, L. Lavoire, G. Lake, D. Reinich
202. Henry Moore 5.8 T. Tech, K. Henderson
203. Early Retirement 5.8 S. Powers, T. Pinar, T. Tech, B. Shilliday, L. Lavoire, K. Bohl, M. Heinz, T. Burke, B. Pinar
204. Burkulese 5.8 T. Burke, T. Tech, B. Shilliday, B. Pinar, T. Pinar, B. Shilliday, L. Lovoire, M. Heinz
205. Ben Scabby Face 5.8 T. Burke
206. Yum Yum 5.8 T. Tech
207. Air Supply 5.7 Ryan, Friend, T. Tech
208. Boom Boom 5.8 T. Tech, M. Morely
209. Monkey Meat 5.8 S. Powers, B. Povolny
210. Safe Zone Hand Crack 5.8 T. Tech, T. Burke, G. Hiskes, R. Fonda
211. Miss (Brett's Teacher) 5.8 T. Tech, T. Pinar
212. Jelly on Springs 5.8 T. Tech
213. Mr. Simpkinton 5.8 T. Tech, G. Armstrong, K. Burnham, Simone
214. Kill them all, and let God Sort them out 5.8 T. Tech, C. Gorsky, K. Burnham, T. Burke
215. Mini Voyage 5.8 G. Armstrong, K. Burnham
216. El Chivo 5.8 S. Powers, G. Hiskes, D. Reinig
217. Bad Lieutennet 5.8 G. Armstrong, Charles, J. Pereya
218. Teflon Ron 5.8 T. Tech, John , Blitzo, Graham, Cora
219. Darva 5.8 T. Tech
220. Unnamed (left of Port. Pepper Pot) 5.8 T. Tech, M. Senyk, Eileen
221. Reach Around Cop 5.8 T. Burke, T. Tech, K. Ogle
222. Bumpy 5.8 A. Gordon, M. Ross
223. Stephanie Route (Queen Mtn.) 5.8 Stephanie, Jim, Tom, I. Hayes
224. Chicken Poop 5.8 S. Lennox
225. John's Giggley Bum Cheeks 5.8 Frazier, J. Wilson, C. Bransford, K. Lund
226. Rings Around Your Danis 5.8 C. Bransford, D. Adler
227. Waterbabies 5.8 S. Alford, Smith, B. Allen
228. Stairway to Kevin 5.8 R. Vogel, K. Powell, , J. Angione, C. Bransford
229. Prozac Crack 5.8 C. Bransford, K. Powell
230. Keith's 10,000 Girlfriends 5.8 Marco, K. Duke, Keith, C. Bransford
231. Chocolate Covered Raisens 5.8 T. Michael
232. Chicken Pot Pie 5.8 T. Michael
234. Glazed Ham 5.8 T. Michael
235. Pink Dolphin 5.8 J. Mireles, Karen, May, Kim, Brian
236. Man and the Woman 5.8 T. Michael
237. Woman and the Man 5.8 T. Michael
238. Black Tounge 5.8 T. Michael
239. 10 Hits of Window Pane 5.7 T. Tech, Blitzo, Will
240. B. O. # 37 5.7 T. Tech, Blitzo, Will
241. Phil Leggett 5.7 T. Tech, R. Ashbachar
242. I'm Not a Doctor, But I'll Take a Look 5.7 T. Tech, W. Stark
243. Welfare Mothers, Drugs, and Speed 5.7 T. Tech
244. Chicks for Chicken T. Tech
245. Fubar 5.7 B. Pinar, James
246. Dinky 5.7 Blitzo, Chrystal , Tech, T. Burke, Justin
247. Sweeny 5.7 F. Haney
248. Tie Your Mother Down 5.7 T. Tech, D. Evans
249. Lukachukai 5.7 T. Tech, K. Henderson, T. Burke
250. Swing Low 5.7 T. Pinar, B. Pinar, F. Haney
251. Cactus Challenge 5.7 Jesse, T. Tech, B. Pinar, T. Pinar
252. Jesse's Erection Manuel 5.7 F. Haney
253. Safe Zone Crack 5.6 T. Tech, R. Fonda, G. Hiskes, etc.
254. Peta OW (Let's Eat Meat) 5.7 T. Tech
255. Mink 5.7 T. Tech
256. Maids of Honor 5.7 T. Tech, T. Burke, C. Gorsky
257. Stinksteak 5.7 K. Burnham, T. Tech
258. Chicken Run 5.7 G. Armstrong, S. Olsen , Karoosh, Friend
259. Buttress Buttress, Golly 5.7 G. Armstrong, G. Epperson
260. Love Bubbles 5.7 T. Tech, Cora, Blitzo
261. The Wife Beater 5.7 T. Tech, P. Blanchard
262. Return of Bumpy 5.7 T. Tech, T. Burke
263. Son of Bumpy 5.7 T. Tech, T. Burke
264. Swedish Cleaning Lady 5.7 Daniel, Tobias, S. Olsen, A. Gordon, K. Miller, L. Collela, S. Herndon, Matt, T. Tech
265. Coca Cola (Queen Mt.) 5.7 A. Gordon, Jim, Stephanie, I. Hayes
266. Rusty Thinking 5.7 C. Bransford
267. Money Penny 5.7 C. Bransford, K. Lund
268. Keith's Ripped Back 5.7 Marco, Friend, Keith, K. Duke, S. Reid, C. Bransford,
269. Andre the Giant 5.6 Bob Spears, T. Tech
270. Ah Goo 5.6 T. Tech
271. Gyno Groove T. Tech, B. Povolny
272. Whores of Babylon 5.6 T. Burke, C. Gorsky, T. Tech
273. We aim to please, So Please Aim 5.6 T. Tech
274. Unaboober 5.6 A. Bartlett, C. Bransford, C. Gerberdine
275. Gofer a Pokin' C. Bransford, D. Evans. K. Lund, friend
276. Jamie Tolerates Derreck 5.6 D. Reinig, Jamie, D. Adler
277. Onnatop 5.6 C. Bransford, K. Lund
278. Bee Bypass 5.6 C. Bransford
279. Bee War 5.6 C. Bransford, Dave, K. Duke
280. Apply Directly to the Forehead 5.5 T. Tech, R. Ashbachar
281. STFU n00b 5.5 T. Tech, Blitzo, Locker
282. Chicks with Attitudes 5.5 T. Tech
283. Chicks with Dicks 5.5 T. Tech
284. God, Guns and Guts 5.5 T. Tech
285. Pillow Biter 5.5 F. S.
286. Bevis 5.5 T. Michael
287. Praying Monkey 5.5 F. S.
288. Happy Birthday Rrrrrennnnnn 5.5 N. Miller, N. Miller, C. Bransford
289. Southern Cornbread 5.8 W. Stark
290. Fried Okra 5.8 W. Stark
291. Serbian Stairway 5.10- Sonia, T. Murphy
292. I Love My Marine 5.6 T. Pinar, B. Pinar, Cat. R. Ashbachar, Aaron
293. Sokolove 5.5 R. Ashbachar
294. A Dot of Culture 5.6 T. Pinar, G. Armstrong
295. Respect My Peeps 5.7 Will, T. Tech, J. Adams, Beth
296. Snottrockets 5.7 T. Pinar
297. Demon Decons 5.7 C. Gorsky, L. Lavoire, Laura, B. Christle
298. Hot-n-Ready 5.7 G. Epperson, Michelle, R. Ashbachar, K. Daniels
299. Cohn Prop 5.8 5.8 T. Tech
300. Licking the Toad 5.8 T. Tech
301. Nicole Kidman 5.8 R. Thompson, T. Tech
302. My Naughty Little Donkey 5.8 Will, K. Burnham
303. Weiner Inspector 5.7 Will, K. Burnham
304. Man Boobs 5.9 T. Tech, W. Stark, Blitzo
305. Phelp's Chevrolet 5.9 Daniel, Cat. T. Pinar, R. Ashbachar, Aaron, B. Pinar
306. Doke 5.9 T. Pinar
307. An Erection Lasting Longer Than 4 Hours 5.9 T. Tech
308. Bongo Johnny T. Pinar, B. Pinar
309. 5.10b Cohn Prop. 5.10b T. Tech, R. Fonda
310. I Saw Daddy Kissing Santa 5.10- K. Burnham, T. Pinar, Eric, B. Pinar, Matthew
311. The Fetus 5.10- T. Tech, R. Ashbachar, T. Pinar
312. Puss Boy 5.10b T. Pinar, B. Pinar, Biologist
313. Cherry Glazer 5.10- T. Tech, B. Pinar, R. Ashbachar, T. Pinar
314. A Diamond, A Pony, and a Ferrari 5.7 T. Tech, R. Ashbachar, Aaron
315. Michael Paul Glazer 5.7 T. Tech, R. Ashbachar, T. Pinar, B. Pinar
316. Chubs 5.7 T. Tech, W. Stark, Blitzo
317. Tart and Tiny 5.7 T. Tech, W. Stark, Blitzo
318. Keeping the Dragon at Bay 5.10- T. Tech, T. Pinar, G. Epperson, B. Pinar
319. Licking Wood T. Tech, Wendell
320. Uncle Len's Pot Farm 5.10 T. Tech, Mario Sherelli, V. Shrelli
321. Baconator 5.10- T. Tech
322. Cockpit T. Tech, G. Epperson, R. Ashbachar
323. Woody's Whirlpool Bath 5.10- T. Tech, W. Stark, B. Pinar, T. Pinar
324. Meth Mart 5.10- B. Pinar, R. Ashbachar
325. Rim Marcinkus 5.10- T. Tech, Will, Beth
326. I Smell Bacon 5.10- M. Lopez, R. Thompson, Chris, Amelia, Blitzo, T. Pinar
327. Mortal Thoughts 5.10c W. Stark, Wendall, K. Bohl, Friend
328. Tart and Tiny (T.R) 5.10d T. Tech
329. I Love My Marine (Direct) 5.10+ T. Tech
330. The Belt Sander 5.10c T. Tech
331. Funky President 5.10c Will, T. Tech, Beth
332. Dick Cheny 5.10c T. Pinar, Chris, M. Lopez
333. Howling Monkey 5.7 T. Tech, R. Ashbachar
334. Don't Eat the Worm 5.8 Nic, R. Ashbachar, T. Tech, Jared, Ben
335. Little Evil 5.8 R. Ashbacher
336. Rampire (left) 5.8 T. Tech, K. Burnham, R. Ashbachar, B. Shilliday
337. Rampire (right) 5.8 T. Tech, K. Burnham, R. Ashbachar, B. Shilliday
338. Rumpire 5.8 T. Tech, K. Burnham,
339. Buttmilk 5.9 T. Tech, K. Burnham, R. Ashbachar, B. Shilliday
340. Leading with the Dimple 5.9 S. Papp
341. Handful of Dickie 5.9 S. Papp
342. Col. Flagg 5.9 T. Tech, R. Ashbachar
343. Splittail 5.9 T. Tech, R. Ashbachar, Nic, Jarred, Ben,
344. Taller Than Texas 5.9 T. Tech, Nic, Jarred, R. Ashbachar
345. Fur 5.10- Fur T. Tech, R. Ashbachar
346. The Floater 5.10- T. Tech, R. Ashbachar
347. Gizm Prizm 5.9 T. Tech, Dave
348. That's What She Said ( Safe Zone) 5.8 T. Tech, T. Manefesto, T. Pinar, R. Ashbachar, Dave, S. Papp
349. Goop Gobbler 5.8 Dave, T. Pinar, S. Papp, R. Ashbachar, T. Teck
350. Bort 5.10- Blitzo, T. Tech, Karoosh, Locker, R. Ashbachar
351. Slumdog 5.7 T. Tech, R. Ashbachar, D. Cox, Justin
352. I'll Sleep When I'm Dead 5.7 T. Tech
353. My Penis Floats 5.11- T. Tech, E. Wolfe, Skip, R. Fonda
354. The Greedy Goat 5.10+ Dwain, T. Tech
354. Karen Carpender Corner 5.7 K. Duke
355. Gateraid in my Navel 5.10- K. Duke, Allison
356. Inspect Her Gadget 5.8 R. Sims, B. Shilliday, Daphanie, T. Tech, Bruce
357. Good Will Humping 5.9+ T. Tech, R. Fonda, B. Shilliday, Daphanie, D. Cox
358. Beer is Good 5.8 T. Tech,
359. Pheromone 5.9 T. Tech, Kerry, S. Brown, Nate, James, R. Ashbachar
360. The Wild Goose 5.10b T. Tech
361. Arkansass 5.10c T. Tech, Kerry, S. Brown
362. Dirtineye 5.9 R. Ashbachar, Peter, Blitzo, B. Shilliday, T. Tech
363. Miss Wiener Tot 5.10+ G. Epperson, Beth




1. Petrified Bear's Dick Arches Nat. Park 5.9 A2 M. Loehr, M. Floyd 4-98
2. Klondike Bluffs Crack 5.10b Arches Nat. Park Diane Stang 4-84
3. Bluff Cliffs (Route 1) Bluff, Utah 5.9 B. Povolny
4. Serendipity 5.10- Valley of the Gods , Utah FFA B. Povolny 10-82
5. Los Gigantos I IV 5.10 A3 Nav. Indian Res. B. Povolny, D. Evans 4-92
6. Arachnid Mesa Nav. Ind. Res V 5.10+ A 4 B. Povolny, D. Evans
7. Standing Rock, (Round Rock ) Nav. Ind. Res. 5.5 A. Brown 9-82
8. The Whale Nav. Ind. Res. IV 5.10 A1 B. Povolny 3-84
9. Smith Spire Nav. Ind. Res. II 5.8 A 4 D. Smith 10-83
10. Rock Point Spire II 5.9 A3 Nav. Ind. Res. H. Thompson, L. Graf 11-83
11. Los Gigantos Butte III Fiend Without a Face III 5.10 A3 B. Povolny 3-84
12. The Pope The Primal Yawn Route Nav. Ind. Res. III 5.10 A 3 + D. Evans 4-86
13. Tsaile Peak So. Face Nav. Ind. Res. III 5.10a B. Povolny 10-82
14. Many Farms Pinnacle So. Face Nav. Ind. Res II 5.8 A 3 L. Graf 5-83
15. Window Rock III W. Face Nav. Ind. Res. 5.10b B. Povolny, S. Prakken
16. Window Rock III W. Face (var.) Nav. Ind. Res. 5.9 C. Granstaf 1984
17. Window Rock III Diamond Route Nav. Ind. Res. 5.9 S. Prakken 1984
18. Window Rock III So. Edge Nav. Ind. Res. 5.9+ D. Stang
19. Window Rock III N. Ridge Nav. Ind. Res. 5.7 S. Prakken 5-84
20. Window Rock III Larry the Liar Get a Friend Nav. Ind. Res. 5.9+ T. Michael, S. Prakken 5-84
21. Window Rock III E. Face Right Nav. Ind. Res. 5.10c T. Michael, B. Povolny 5-84
22. Pratilus Spire E. Face Nav. Ind. Res. 5.10b A1 B. Povolny, s. Prakken 1984
23. Bentwood Spire NE Face Nav. Ind. Res. 5.10b/c B. Povolny, F. Bentwood 5-84
24. Rattlesnake Arch Buzzworm Nav. Ind. Res. 5.7+ R/ X C. Bransford 4-90
25. Lucky Strike Spire W. Face Nav. Ind. Res. 5.9 A 2 B. Povolny 1984
26. Elephant Butte Elephant Head Route Nav. Ind. Res. 5.9 B. Povolny 12-83
27. Dream of Dead Horses Nav. Ind. Res. 5.10c B. Povolny, H. Thompson, A. Beatie 1983
28. Unnamed Nav. Ind. Res. (Dead Horse Crag) 5.9 (T R) 1983
29. Unnamed Nav. Ind. Res. (Dead Horse Crag) 5.10b (T R) 1983
30. Dark Horse Nav. Ind. Res. 5.9 J. Brown 1983
31. Zen and the Art of Dead Horse Maintenance Nav. Ind. Res. 5.9 J. Brown 1983
32. Mr. Ed is Dead Nav. Ind. Res. 5.10b J. Brown 1983
33. Winnie the Pooh Nav. Ind. Res. 5.9 D. Evans, J. Angione 1984
34. They Shoot Horses, Don't They? Nav. Ind. Res. S. Prakken, L. Graf 11-84
35. Unnamed Nav. Ind. Res. ( Dead Cow Crag) 5.10 D. Smith 3-84
36. Unnamed Nav. Ind. Res. ( Dead Cow Crag) 5.8 D. Smith 3-84
37. Cosmic Carcass Nav. Ind. Res. 5.9 R. Thomson, M. Brown, D. Smith 3-84
38. Unnamed Nav. Ind. Res. ( Dead Cow Crag) 5.9 D. Smith 3-84
39. Troll Meets Mr. Ed Nav. Ind. Res. 5.10a J. Angione, D. Vaught 1-84
40. Where Dead Horses Dare Nav. Ind. Res. 5.9 D. Evans , B. Povolny 11-83
41. Edna's Needle W. Face Nav. Ind. Res. 5.10a A3 H. Thompson 10-83
42. Greig Arch Nav. Ind. Res. Veternarian Route A3 G. Armstrong 4-93
43. Todd Didn't Make Little Green Apples 7 Mile Canyon, Moab, Utah 5.9+ K. Copeland, C. Bransford 3-91
44. The Thumb Fallbrook, (De Luz) , Ca. 5.10c D. Evans 1980's
45. 5.10c Crack Capitol Reef Nat. Park C. Treudau, E. Talman early 1990's
46. New Route 5.10 15-20 pitches Hushe Valley , Pakistan Sally 1990's
47. Waterfall Route I 5.10 Hushe Valley , Pakistan 1990's
48. Waterfall Route II 5.9 Hushe Valley, Pakistan 1990's
49. Waterfall Route II 5.10 Hushe Valley, Pakistan 1990's
50. Pigmy Alien Snow Canyon Utah FFA (pitch 2) 5.9 R. Olevsky 1980's
51. The Green Mile 5.10c Hinterlands ( Idyllwild, Ca.) K. Vaught, F. Bentwood 2004
52. Compound Eyes, 5.11- Suicide Rocks D. Evans 8-80
53. Baby Cobra 5.11b Suicide Rocks D. Hensel, D. Evans 5-86
54. Bedrock 5.11- Suicide Rock B. Gaines, Charlie Peterson 8-97
55. The 5.7 Arete 5.10b R Suicide Rock E. Evans, C. Cole, M. Floyd 1986
56. Edgehogs (pitch 3/4) Suicide Rock B. Gaines, B. Austin 7-97
57. Hog Var. (Edgehogs) Tahquitz Rock 5.10b B. Gaines 7-97
58. The Basset Hound Lake Arrowhead Pinnacles 5.10c M. Loehr, P. Brennan 4-98


Indian Cove , Wonderland South, Pinto Basin, Central Josh


5.0 -5,5


1. Butt Pirate Buttress A. Bartlett


5.6

1. Where's Your Skateboard B. Allen, S. Haber, D. Haber, A. Bartlett, S. Parker
2. Shave Your Bump C. Bransford
3. Hold Your Horses G. Armstorong
4. Morning Wood C. Bransford, D. Adler, D. Evans
5. Shaaaaaaah C. Bransford


5.7

1. Scream Chuck C. Bransford, D. Avery
2. Cuddlebone C. Bransford
3. Eat What You Secrete D. Reid, T. Swain, A. Bartlett, C. Bransford, J. Thacker, M. Tillman, Jennifer
4. Willard D. Houser, D.Nakahira, D. Ziessner, D. Vaught, P. Quinn, I. Carter
5. Invasion on My Fantasy T. Gordon
6. Fertile Crescent A. Bartlett
7. Cow Junkies D. Adler, C. Bransford, K. Lund
8. Angione Crack J. Angione
9. Lucus Palucus C. Bransford, Christie
10. Beak of the Week R. Shahl, To. Burke, D. Evans, J. Angione
11. Yankee Poodle C. Bransford
12. Saltimbanco F. S.
13. Frankie Lee C. Fry
14. Unwahsed Lederhosen T. Abrahamson, C. Bransford, K. Bransford, J. Guiterrez, J. Thacker
15. Political Asylum C. Bransford
16. Large Marge M. Floyd
17. Adult Gerbils, $1.59 C. Bransford, M. Floyd, D. Evans, R. Collins, J. Angione, Matt, John
18. My Senior Project D. Gray
19. Flash Gordon T. G et all
20. Hiding in Honduras D. Nakahira, M. Brown, I. Carter
21. Chongo's Love Child T. Tech, M. Senyk, E. Coleman



5.8

1. Kundalini-Linguini-Weenie T. Atherton, C. Bransford
2. Fluff Boy C. Bransford
3. Iron Lady M. Thatcher
4. All My Children K. Laird
5. Gunny Melville A. Bartlett
6. The First Emperer A. Bartlett
7. The Jedi Mimster G. Burton, A. Bartlett
8. Explosive Diarrhea C. Bransford
9. Squat and Gobble K. Powell, R. Vogel, M. Kelly, C. Bransford
10. Little Red Rooster D. Evans, M. Floyd, C. Bransford
11. Bite Me R. Lynsky
12. Turtle Vein D. Evans, M. Floyd, T. Swain, R. Vogel
13. Porky's Excellent Adventure C. Bransford, M. McCallister, S. McCallister
14. 1-800-DENTIST T. Michael, C. Bransford
15. Oh T. Sartin
16. Wet Bones B. Elliot, R. Collins, C. Bransford, C. Miller, G. Burgess, A. Bartlett
17. Sh#t, It's a Brit H. Morrison, M. Rodrique, C. Bransford
18. Top-Topic L. Maron, A. Orsi
19. Bublinki Vaslov, Pepa, Ivana, R. Bedan, Bergit
20. Cactus Rustler H. Morrison, M. Rodrigue, C. Bransford
21. Raging Intensity T. Atherton
22. Filthy Rich B. Sillasen
23. Spumco C. Bransford
24. Arturo's Special I. Carter, etc.
25. Bakersfield K. Duke
26. Santa Cruz F. Haney



5.9


1. Bivy Kitten C. Bransford
2. Texas Big Hair C. Bransford
3. Fissure of Fish D. Reid, T. Swain, A. Bartlett, C. Bransford, J. Thacker, Jennifer
4. Tell Me I'm Not Dreaming J. Angione, M. Hirschfeld
5. Present for Mama D. Adler
6. Rattled A. Bartlett, B. Allen, D. Haber, S. Haber, S. Parker
7. The Schwee B. Dolge, K. Kuerzel
8. Where's Baldo J. Angione, C. Bransford, M. Floyd, D. Evans
9. Tapeworm Traverse G. Armstrong, Hugh
10. Hobo Chang Ba B. Smith
11. Cobra Cunnilingus B. Gaines
12. Dead Bees P. Brennan
13. Singletrack D. Evans, T. Burke, R. Stahl, M. Floyd, K. Dersling, C. Bransford
14. Czech Cows say Boo R. Bedan, M. Hirschfeld
15. Super Beak of the Desert J. Angione, D. Evans
16. Mucus Lover G. Burgess, B. Elliot, R. Collins, C. Bransford, C. Miller, A. Bartlett
17. Peckerwood C. Bransford, D. Evans, K. Moriyama, D. Adler, J. Angione
18. Have a White One C. Bransford, B. Elliot, A. Barltett
19. The Wet Spot A. Bartlett, B. Elliot, C. Bransford
20. Pepason R. Bedan
21. A Gut Full of Suds D. Evans
22. Rich Bitch B. Sillasen
23. Rich and Famous B. Sillasen
24. Four Car Garage B. Sillasen
25. McStumpy Sandwich A. Bartlett, D. Reid, C. Bransford
26. Satin Finish B. Sillasen, D. Reid
27. Homowack M. Floyd
28. Lil Squirt D. Evans, M. Floyd, C. Bransford
29. 24-Carrot K. Boyd, B. Sillasen
30. Wally George D. Evans, J. Angione
31. Peas on Earth D. Evans, M. Floyd, C. Bransford , R. Collins, J. Angione, Matt, John
32. Ren C. Bransford
33. Houses of the Homeless T. Swain, C. Bransford
34. No Doz T. Swain, C. Bransford, A Osci, R. Thompson, T. Atherton, L. Marin
35. Lickety Dogs T. Atherton, C. Bransford, T. Swain, L. Marin, A. Osci, R. Thompson
36. Just Say Yo C. Bransford, J. Angione, S. Meister, C. Meredith
37. Wayne's World Var. M. Loehr, Wayne
38. Black Rabbit B. Elliot
39. Krooked Kop Kane A. Bartlett
40. Beat the Vulture D. Evans, C. Bransford
41. Turkey Terror (First Lead) A Bartlett


5.10a/b


1. Stud Muffin C. Bransford
2. I Had a Dream D. Evans, T. Atherton, J. Angione
3. Coyote in the Bushes C. Bransford, Gabe
4. The Block H. Morrison, M. Rodrigue, A. Bartlett, T. Atherton
5. Dry Lake T. Atherton
6. Noriega Does Panama B. Gaines, Y. Gaines, C. Bransford
7. Bulkhead Arete A. Bartlett T. Michael, S. Strong
8. School Daze C. Bransford
9. Monster Hole C. Bransford
10. If You Really Loved Me You'd buy me a Turkey C. Bransford, G. Archer, H. Boyd, R. Thompson, R. Bedin
11. Ben D. Houser, D. Nakahire, D. Ziessner, D. Vaught, I. Carter
12. Milk The Dog B. Sillasen
13. Truly Snooty Furniture T. Michael
14. Book of Changes C. Fry, D. Evans, C. Cole, M. Floyd, K. Carrignan
15. The Tony Sartin Crack T. Sartin
16. Iguana Masters E. Evans J. Angione, C. Fry F. Bentwood
17. Pink Thing D. Evans, C. Fry, J. Angione
18. The Fire Glove C. Cole, R. Vogel, S. Gordon
19. Pictures at an Exhibition M. Paul
20. Brittish Bolt Fest H. Morrison, C. Bransford
21. Epperson's Footprints S. Gordon, D. Evans, M. Floyd, C. Bransford
22. Bunking Broncos C. Bransford, T. Atherton
23. Jump Start B. Gaines
24. Solar Oven D. Wilson, P. Brennan
25. Brits in Drag B. Courtney, D. Evans
26. The 4 Dollar Crack T. Sartin
27. Trick of the Tail M. Brown, S. Brown, R. Thompson
28. Oozing for Pleasure C. Miller, R. Collings, G. Burgess, A. Bartlett, C. Bransford, B. Elliot,
29. Jody C. Fry
30. Dr. Garlic Breath M. Rodrigue, H. Morrison
31. Beam Me Up , Scottie I. Carter, M. Brown, S. Gordon, etc.
32. I Slept with L K L. Graf, T. Michaels, S. Strong, B. Povolny, J. Hamlin
33. Don't C. Bransford
34. The Moustache C. Bransford, D. Reid, K. Duke, E. Brogna, C. Allen, S. Ahn, B. Stokes, J. Barbe, B. Dolge
35. Pocket Veto A. Bartlett, M. Schneider,
36. Death on the Nile A. Bartlett, M. Lechlinski, , M. Gingerly, D. Evans, T. Atherton, Josh, Otis
37. Get Vertical in Venice G. Archer
38. Cliff Pounder C. Pounders, Gabrielle
39. Tooth Beaver C. Bransford
40. The Stinkbug D. Evans, B. Sillasen
41. Shady Grove A. Bartlett, A. Roberts, D. Reid
42. No Nose T. Michael, J. Angione, J. Bocks, S. Bocks, D. Dixon
43. Stacy's Mess J. Angione, T. Michael, J. Bocks, S. Bocks, D. Dixon
44. Lips Like Sugar D. Evans, T. Michael, J. Angione
45. Whoa, Hmmmmm, Ahhhh T. Abrahamson, C. Bransford, J Guiterrez, J. Thacker
46. Planet Y K. Duke
47. Retirement D. Hugglestein
48. Stimpy C. Bransford
49. Boner Doner C. Bransford, D. Evans, M. Floyd, J. Angione, J. Regelbrugge
50. Stress Puppet J. Angione, G. Archer
51. I Smell a Rat D. Evans, M. Floyd, J. Angione, R. Bedan
52. Immuno Rejection B. Povolny
53. Barking Spyders C. Bransford, K. Tracy, M. Brown, T. Peterson
54. Teen Steam M. Brown
55. Wait Until Dark R. Thompson
56. Save My Pet Walrus C. Bransford, C. Dillon, T. Sartin
57. Cactus Pricks et all
58. The Little Fireman A. Bartlett, L. Colella
59. Fresno K. Duke
60. Mirage B. Gaines, T. Romero
61. Eat Bertha's Muscles A. Bartlett
62. Tiptoe to Topanga (first lead) T. Pinar, Jesse, S. Powers, F. Haney
63. Happy Meal Et All
64. Prime Time (First Lead) J. Angione, J. Cushner



5.10c/d


1. Simba B. Gaines, J. Janda, T. Atherton
2. Mystic Teflon C. Bransford, T. Atherton
3. Val de Mello C. Bransford, D. Zeissner, J. Thackray
4. Fraud Squad M. Wilson
5. Pet or Meat B. Gaines, C. Bransford, S. McAllister
6. Belay Girl D. Evans, C. Bransford, M. Floyd, S. McAllister
7. Love Comes in Spurt C. Bransford, J. Angione
8. Exiled in Sweden S. Strong, T. Michael, A. Bartlett
9. Moosebaby M. Mandelson
10. Quebec Nordiques C. Bransford
11. Suffering Catfish D. Evans, J. Angione, M. Floyd
12. Cole/Gordon Offwidth C. Cole
13. Eye of Horus J. Angione, M. Hirschfeld
14. One Whole Chicken in a Can T. Swain, A. Bartlett , C. Bransford, D. Reid, M. Tillman, Jennifer
15. Big Brown Eye D. Evans, C. Cole, C. Fry
16. Monkey Spunk S. Crichlow
17. Radio Free Utah C. Bransford
18. 12 Oz. Curls A. Bartlett
19. Lorenz Dry Dock P. Johnston
20. Dhip R. Bedan
21. Halloweenis D. Evans, M. Floyd
22. Against All Todds C. Cole, R. Vogel, S. Gordon, F. Bentwood
23. Grainy Train C. Cole, F. Bentwood, R. Vogel, D. Evans, M. Floyd
24. The Popemobile G. Baines, D. Evans, M. Floyd
25. Washoe Crack D. Evans
26. El Pollo Loco D. Evans
27. Punish the Mosquito D. Evans, C. Bransford, J. Angione
28. Kolopeli D. Evans, J. Angione, C. Bransford
29. The Eating Gorilla Comes in Peace T. Atherton
30. Jingle Balls D. Wilson
31. Strip Search R. Vogel, D. Evans, T. Swain, M. Floyd
32. Bike Across America T. Atherton
33. Hot Dog in a Bun C. Bransford, R. Corbin, S. McCallister
34. This Scud's a Dud D. Wonderly, D. Wilson, K. Wilson, C. Bransford
35. Sleek Beak D. Evans, R. Stahl,
36. Weenis De Milo C. Bransford, T. Sartin
37. Los Tres Bovines A. Bartlett, R. Vogel
38. Go Ask Alice J. Angione, D. Evans, C. Bransford
39. Cool Move, Gritty Rock, Stand Procedure J. Vinci
40. Disobedience School A. Roberts
41. Tortellini Roof J. Angione, T. Michael, J. Bocks, S. Bocks, D. Dixon
42. T-N-T T. Atherton, C. Bransford, J. Angione, T. Beck
43. Planet Z J. Rhoads, Y. Gaines
44. Planet Clare D. Evans, T. Swain, D. Levi
45. Beaver Boulder, Free Route J. Long, M. Lechlinski, M. Gingerly, C. Bransford
46. The Devil Inside D. Evans, J. Angione
47. Visualize Whirled Peas R. Collins, D. Evans, C. Bransford, M. Floyd, , J. Angione, Matt, John
48. Brush Your Teeth with Jesus T. Beck
49. Double Jeopardy D. Evans, C. Cole, J. Angione, M. Floyd
50. Route Right of the Dumbest Climb in the Monument P. Robbins
51. Plum Duff et all
52. Portly Pepper Pot T. Tech. M. Senyk, E. Coleman
53. Ben Dover B. Gaines
54. Circus Midget T. Sartin
55. Fabio D. Evans, C. Bransford
56. Knob Cheese G. Armstrong


5.11

1. Monaco B. Gaines, Y. Gaines, M. Maynard,
2. Gaston's Groove B. Gaines, A. Bartlett, J. Janda
3. Chase Lounge B. Gaines
4. Bonfire B. Gaines
5. Vertical Corrector B. Povolny
6. Sweat Pants T. Atherton
7. Roy's Route D. Hensel
8. Animal Magnetism D. Evans, J. Angione
9. Red Hot Chilli Peppers T. Swain, D. Reid, A. Bartlett, J. Thacker
10. Inauguron D. Evans, M. Floyd
11. Manly Dike C. Cole, D. Evans, M. Floyd
12. Svpada T. Atherton
13. Granny's Chin N. Conway, S. Crichlow
14. Bald Ambition D. Evans, J. Angione
15. Tidy Bowl D. Evans, M. Floyd, C. Bransford, R. Bedan, M . Hoffman
16. Pit Viper B. Gaines
17. Gordon/Bartlett A. Bartlett
18. Alien Life Form Arete M. Lechlinski, M. Gingery, D. Evans
19. Beadwagon D. Evans, J. Angione
20. Coyote Eggs D. Evans, M. Floyd
21. Cleopatra B. Gaines, Y. Gaines, A. Bartlett
22. The Invisible Man D. Evans, T. Beattey, M. Floyd, J. Angione
23. T Gordon Liddy D. Dembrow
24. Nose to the Grindstone D. Evans, F. Ziel
25. Hey, Taxi C. Cole, H. Laegar
26. Baby Fae D. Evans, C.Cole, B. Povolny
27. Pull My Finger , Barbara D. Mayville, T. Atherton
28. Get Shorty B. Gaines, T. Sartin
29. Nebraskian Rump Rangers T. Tech
30. London Calling B. Gaines, M. Hoffman
31. Land Shark G. Armstrong
32. Friction Impossible B. Gaines


Aid Climbs

1. Mexican Hat of Joshua Tree D. Evans, M. Floyd
2. The Woodshed M. Paul
3. Gypsy Boots G. Armstrong
4. Dances with Seals M. Loehr
5. Candy Grabber A. Bartlett, M. Loehr

251 total


Almost at 1000 FA's...........a life-time goal.......(I need to get a life....)























































mojede

Trad climber
Butte, America
Mar 28, 2009 - 03:12am PT
Not quite in Todd's league here, but when you have a large area with a lot of stone, and relatively few climbers...well, you get the idea.

For me, the fulfillment is in the exploration--(and the conquest...).
deuce4

climber
Hobart, Australia
Mar 28, 2009 - 03:20am PT
Holy Gee-F*#king Moley Todd!!! That is one amazing list.

Remind me of Weo if you get a chance, there's some vague friendly memory of hanging out with good friends, but...???

Can you post the list of Desert FA's separately sometime?

What a career!
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Mar 28, 2009 - 03:35am PT
John;....that climb Weo (named after my wife Andrea's cat....)....was that really long (and cool) arete that we did out in the Outer Mongolia area in the N. Wonderland, when we were out there with Timmy O' Neil, Tucker, Grant, and others.......It was a fun day, and a great day........a cool climb, and a wonderful sunny place in a beautiful setting.......basically just a typical fine day at the crags......beer, bolts.....and was there babes? .......
deuce4

climber
Hobart, Australia
Mar 28, 2009 - 03:38am PT
Dang- that was some fun. Funner than fun, in fact.

I think you have the first Supertopo post that should be labeled "Warning High Bandwidth" just for the extensive amount of text!


healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Mar 28, 2009 - 05:06am PT
Jebus - not sure which is more remarkable, your list of FA's or the fact you were OCD enough to write them down. My list certainly isn't anywhere near that long, but it does have a few gems on it that I'm still quite fond of remembering (when I can or do). Hell, I even have one in Glenwood Canyon that now sports an eastbound I-70 tunnel entrance square in the middle of one of the pitches.

I actually think more about the ones that I never got to along the way - mostly in the Blue Mtns. west of Sydney and in a few places that will remain unmentioned as I may yet still rally on one or two. Oh, and a chunk of my rack has spent the winter on the high anchor of a particularly nasty eight roofed job we hope to complete this year which was appropriately pre-named 'Menopause'.
steveA

Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
Mar 28, 2009 - 06:51am PT
I guess what is great about doing first ascents, particularly if you were lucky enough to be in an area before the plums were picked off, is they will be done long after your dead and buried. The vast majority of people on this planet go thru life without leaving any tracks,(except raising offspring-which is great in itself). Im particularly proud of a few I did in the Wind Rivers and in New Hampshire.
steveA

Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
Mar 28, 2009 - 06:55am PT
Hey Healyje
I also climbed in the Blue Mountains with John Ewbank. Boy did that guy pick a bunch of CLASSIC plumbs!
MisterE

Trad climber
One Step Beyond!
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 28, 2009 - 10:10am PT
"Almost at 1000 FA's...........a life-time goal.......(I need to get a life....)"

Amazing list, Todd! I would disagree with the last part of the above statement: You have a great life - and one that has touched many of ours.

Off to do a couple more FA's in Sedona today - I'll post up my meager list of 30 or so later.

Just wow, though, on that list!

Jaybro: I just wanted to differentiate between posterity and chestbeat! (Canadian-Norwegian Glutemus Maximus aside)



rlf

Trad climber
Josh, CA
Mar 28, 2009 - 10:14am PT
To numerous to name, to few of quality to bother mentioning...
Evel

Trad climber
Nederland
Mar 28, 2009 - 10:17am PT
Alas! Hell bound for obscurity...Bouldering areas in PA that have been renamed,graded,etc... Trad lines at the New that have been bolted...Oh the Humanity! Can't take away my masterpiece though. 75 ft of pure finger heaven, took two days with the demo saw and another couple days drilling out the back...toyed with theidea of doing a muriatic acid wash, but in the end settled for bolting the thing and climbing it. Now the fun part, Maybe a prize for whoever can tell the route name,my name,or other details regarding this line. Good luck!
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Mar 28, 2009 - 10:22am PT
Mister E...........throw those new routes down today, in Sedona......there's " a few " new lines left out there, aren't there?.......a few MILLION...... AND;.....it was a pleasure to do that new route with you out on Geo Tour a few months ago....(It was a good one too;....only you got it first try, and it took me about 30 tries!).......Rock on, sir....and keep an eye on JTM too;...she's a good one......stop by when you are in town and help me get to that magic one thousand;...THEN I can retire and get on with my life.....

Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Mar 28, 2009 - 10:29am PT
Most of the worthwhile first ascents will get immortalized in a guidebook, maybe even a
writeup somewhere. It's all those other FAs that get lost to posterity, like the one that
inspired me to start the "Your Worst First Ascent" thread.

'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Mar 28, 2009 - 10:29am PT
Maybe a couple hundred, mostly on the Niagara Escarpment in Ontario. Everything from ultra-classic down to complete crap.

And not one damn bolt in any of them. [unless some wanker added bolts afterwards]
Brutus of Wyde

climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
Mar 28, 2009 - 12:48pm PT
Not a complete list, just stuff I can remember...

High Sierra:
Mt. Whitney: The Hairline V 5.10d C2F
Mt. Whitney: Direct East Face V 5.10d (FFA)
Mt. Chamberlin: Hot Damn! V 5.10+ (R) (FFA)
Temple Crag: Planaria V 5.10 (R) (FFA)
Castle Rock Spire: Cinco de Mayo V 5.10 A3
Castle Rock Spire: Spike Hairdoo IV 5.10 A3 (New Route, First Winter Ascent?)
Regge Pole: E. Face Dihedrals III 5.11a
The Duck: Instant Espresso III 5.10c
Thor Peak: Lucifer's Hammer III 5.10a
Granite Park Spire: White Peregrines III 5.10a

Tuttle Creek Area:
Wind Horse V 5.10 A3
Summer Ridge V 5.9
Zig Zag Dihedral IV 5.9
Beckey Route Red Baron Tower III 5.10a (FFA)
Milktoast Chimney III 5.8
What a Gift 5.10b

Finger Rock:
S. Arete 5.9+ R
Proctologist 5.9
South Face Beckey Route 5.8(FFA)
West Face 5.7

Hoffman Mountain:
Burninator 5.10c
Gold Nugget 5.10c
Seem’s Holy 5.9+ R
Red Tail 5.9
Bear’s Lair 5.8
Shooting Star Chimney 5.8
Woodchuck 5.8,
Golden Tower Direct 5.7 R

Sonora Pass area:
Sirens of the Stanislaus V 5.10 C2
Midas 5.10c/d
Low Balls 5.10 R
Tradman Galoot 5.10a R/X
Etude Ala Hoe 5.10a
Rodeo Sex 5.10a
Vedauwoo Five Seven 5.9
Wagon Train 5.9
Pony Espresso 5.9
Chris Craft 5.9 (FFA)
Mungebagged (aka Behren’s Chimney) 5.8
Chicken Little 5.8
ERTR 5.8
The Ramp 5.8
Big Gulp 5.8
Rodeo 5.8
Coldfinger 5.8
Red Herring 5.8
7-up Crack 5.7
Lactation Corner 5.7
Women’s Militant Aboretum Society 5.7
Kneedful Things 5.7
Girl Howdy 5.6
My Little Pony 5.4

Red Rocks:
Bed of Nails 5.9
Panty Loon 5.8
Balsamic 5.8
Octopus Cave 5.9


Alabama Hills:
My Little Lab Rat 5.10b
Stem Cell Research 5.10a
Slingshot Arete 5.10a
Cattle Drive 5.10a
Choss Whisperer 5.10a
Booty Pageant 5.10a
Lives of the Cowboys 5.9
Short Leash 5.9
Haf n’ Haf 5.7
Little Miss Sunshine 5.7
Penguello 5.7
Overbight 5.6


New Jack City:
(Routes have since been retro-bolted and re-named)
Reverse Osmosis 5.11 R/X
Central High 5.9+
Shady Lane 5.8 X

City of Rocks:
Boothill 5.8

Joshua Tree:
Ipecac 5.10+
Red Line 5.9 R
Miller Time 5.7

tolman_paul

Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
Mar 28, 2009 - 01:09pm PT
I guess I should have kept notes. Probably a couple dozen, mostly in obscure areas and not noteworty. Most of them I don't even recall what I called them.
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Mar 28, 2009 - 01:24pm PT
C2F?
Brutus of Wyde

climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
Mar 28, 2009 - 01:39pm PT
Goes clean at C2 if fixed gear is still in place. It's a supertopo-ism.

Brutus
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Mar 28, 2009 - 02:00pm PT
check
I'm gonna call that cobbler in boulder, I want a rifle scum pad?
Do they come in sizes?
Brutus of Wyde

climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
Mar 28, 2009 - 02:42pm PT
Yup. I take a large, I think Em's are medium.
MisterE

Trad climber
One Step Beyond!
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 28, 2009 - 10:47pm PT
Yeah, Todd - we had a great time that day! Thanks for the invite!

My meager list:

Smith Rock:
Snuffy Smith - 5.9
No Golf Shoes - 5.11b (2p)
The John Galt Line - 5.11a
Lion Zion - 5.10c
Hobbit's Pockets - 5.10c
Equineimity - 5.10c
Tuff It Out - 5.10a
Schleppin' For Hollywood - 5.11d

North Cascades:
The Devil's Club - 5.11b R/X (Grade V, 24p)
Plan 9 From Outer Space - 5.10c (Grade IV, 16p)
Der Diehedral - 5.10c (6p var)

Nason Ridge, Washington:
Gunstone - 5.11c
Roofus - 5.11d
Airborn Ranger - 5.11c
6 others I can't remember the names of...

Arizona:
BP Cuff - 5.11b
Cool Reception - 5.10b
Scrubs - 5.11b
Brain Salad Surgery - 5.11c
Melonoma - 5.11d
No Appointment necessary - 5.11d
The Short Assistant - 5.11c
Free Refills - 5.10b
Timed Release - 5.10d
Pharm Boy - 5.11a
Herbal Remedies - 5.11c
Good n Plenty - 5.11d
Sundogs - 5.11c
Bluto Tastes An Olive - 5.9+
Muppets In Space - 5.10c
Improbability Drive - 5.11c

Bouldering:
Various boulder problems in the campground area of Squamish
Roadside Arete, Leavenworth WA - V3
The Clamshell, Guemes Island WA - V2




SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Mar 29, 2009 - 03:15pm PT
See, I didn't have to list any--Todd did 'em all!



Wow, what an amazing list. I could read that thing for days!
You da man, Toddmeister!
ec

climber
ca
Mar 29, 2009 - 03:58pm PT
Todd, your killing us here!

Say! How about quality vs quantity?

White Punks on Dope, Voodoo Dome, The Needles, III 5.8
Voodoo Chil, Voodoo Dome, The Needles, III 5.9
Crossbones, Voodoo Dome, The Needles, III 5.10
The Romantic Warrior, Warlock Needle, The Needles, IV 5.12b or 5.10 A4
(w/orig. 4th pitch)
Crystal Bonsai, Bubbs Creek Wall, KCNP, V-VI 5.11 A3
Archangel, Cherubim Dome, SNP, VI 5.10 A0
Just a Rock in the Park, Angel Wings, SNP, V-VI 5.10 A3
In the Niche of Time, Tehipite Dome, KCNP, VI 5.10 A3+
Bigger than Life, Mega Dome, Lamont Pinnacles, III 5.10+
Digitally Remastered, Mega Dome, Lamont Pinnacles, II 5.11

'just a few...

 ec



socalbolter

Sport climber
Silverado, CA
Mar 29, 2009 - 07:24pm PT
I've done a few, some better than others.

While the reward in doing an FA is one thing, the real joy comes in seeing others enjoying the routes.

I'd like to take this chance to thank all of those who FA'd the many routes I've enjoyed over the years. Without the gang of you there would be a lot less fun in my world...
ec

climber
ca
Mar 29, 2009 - 09:19pm PT
"No Bolt, no route. Isn't that the rule? Plenty of guys assume that IS the rule." - Rjx

'Hadn't heard of that...I suppose I subscribed to part of it as on several routes in Domeland Wilderness that remained unreported, then showed-up as new routes a decade later (to my entertainment)...but it still was a route we did...

 ec
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Mar 29, 2009 - 10:14pm PT
If it looks like a new route, walks like a new route, and quacks like a new route....it probably is a new route......bolt or no bolt.....(but you never know, do you?)....

Tom

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
Mar 30, 2009 - 02:51am PT
Castle Rock Spire: Cinco de Mayo V 5.10 A3

Brutus sent me a topo of this route. They called an expando aid pitch, "The Piñata". Pretty good visualization, on that one.


My few FAs are on Scott Rock, across from the High School in Cambria. I'm not sure if you can still climb there. Lawyers being what they are these days, the ranchers most likely don't want trouble. If they do, High School Hooker is A2/A3 hooks up the smooth face on the right. The other ones aren't worth mentioning.
dogtown

climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
Mar 30, 2009 - 03:10am PT
That is not a list Gordon.












































































































It's a book!
east side underground

Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
Mar 30, 2009 - 11:00am PT
I'm not in the same league as many here on the taco, with only a few FA's ( mostly small penis routes in the gorge and rock creek)but my fav is the north buttress of Mt. Dade, a sweet high country route also did a line on russell years ago that we thought was a FA but were informed (heckled) by Bartlett in the AAJ that it probably wasn't, it was a obscure dihedral system on the main south-east face, who knows? it was fun thats all that matters eh! Did a cool dike/flake route in the stronghold, Magnus Coloradas anyone ever climb it?
east side underground

Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
Mar 30, 2009 - 11:39am PT
ok Mr. Ayers, I KNOW you are lurking, come on Roy, give us a glimse into All the routes you've done. It's the GLORY Roy, not the MAGESTY (spelling? sorry mind rot). Back when the Sheepshead was being developed, did we do any FA's? All I remember is alot of climbing, alot of dope smoking, and alot of good times!
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Mar 30, 2009 - 01:34pm PT
One thing I wish is that I had kept better diaries climbing. Here are some worth mentioning that I can find or remember…

Joshua Tree:

Seizure .12c, with Charlie Crist 1988
Hang ‘em High 12b, with McCollum and Laeger 1990
No Rest for the Wicked .11d - On Hell Rock with Jan McCollum and Herb Laeger, 5/90
The Route of All Evil .12a - n Hell Rock with Jan McCollum and Herb Laeger, 5/90
Dyno-Soar .12a ffa 1992. (Todd Swain was kind enough to encourage me to free his aid pitch.)
5150 .10b, with Brian Jonas, John Henderson, Karen Tracy and Herb Laeger app. 93

Up in Rattlesnake Canyon is an area we called Indian Country:
(These routes are not in any current guide, but can be found on Mtn Project and Summitpost. Vern Stiefel,
Dave Evans, Bob Passerini, Tom Murphy and Andrew Burch added more new ones there in 03 too.)

A thrilling memory as Vern Stiefel bags the on-sight flash on Last of the Gohegans in fall 2003. Mike Morely belaying, photo by Andrew Burch.

The Last of the Gohegans .11d, with Ken Gohegan 1992
A Good Day to Die .11bx, with Guy Keesee 1992
Squaws in Heat .9, with Vern Stiefel, Bob Passerini 2003
Welcome to Indian Country .9, with Jan McCollum 1992
Trail of Tears .11aR with Jan 1992
Little Big Horn .12a, with Laeger, 1992

Kings Canyon, The Gorge of Despair:

From Afar .11c, with Guy Keesee July 1992. On the South Face of The Cobra
Despairadoes .12a, with Keesee and Chelsea Griffie July 1996. On the East Face of The Silver Turret

Courtright Reservoir:
Voyager Rock:
Doughballs on a Rampage .11a/A2, with Charlie Crist & Brent Ingram 8/88
Seamstress .12b, with Julie Lazar 9/88
By Jupiter, There are Rings Around Uranus .11d, with Herb Laeger 8/89
Eve Of Destruction .10d, with Eve & Herb Laeger 7/90
Cast of Characters .11c, with everyone imaginable 7/90
The Gold Standard .12c with Jan McCollum, Keesee 9/90
Dusy Dome:
Face of a Blue Eyed Dog .12a/b with Laeger & Ingram

Dome Rock:

About Face .12b with Jan McCollum an Laeger 1987
(This pitch was originally climbed by Mike Waugh with almost no pro, and he wandered over right to finish at
Saucer Full of Secrets. No one else would lead it, and with Mikes ok, we went and climbed up through the same lower
Crux and finished straight up the sustained water streak to a new anchor.)
Save The Wails .12a, with Laeger (first route right from Carsonoma)
I did some routes in The Needles with Laeger but they were really his lines.

Church Dome:

Pumping The Nuns .11b/c, with Guy Keesee 7/94 (S Face of The Convent in The Valley of Death)
X-communication .10a/b, with Guy Keesee 7/06 (this and another we did are in a nice shady slot right of the Taj Majal)

Kern Canyon:

Rincon…. (shhhhhh…) I will just say there has been a bunch of good stuff going on up there even recently. Maybe Rob will post up.
Rob climbing Wake Up Call, The Rincon.

I left off some good ones because access got dicey or they are juss’ plain secret. Catch me by the campfire… :-)

Chinchen

climber
Living on the road
Apr 26, 2009 - 12:33am PT
Eric! I was there for Shleppin' for Hollywood and at least on other, I cant remember the other one I helped you put up..? Man I miss climbing with you! Still at it I see!
Jason Chinchen

PM me bro!
Evel

Trad climber
Rocky mountains
Apr 26, 2009 - 12:51am PT
three that come to mind right away: The Nothing Atolls (homage to the Bird, and a blank slab..) Bellefonte Quarry, PA : Ceasars Palace A4+, Suck Creek canyon, and again at the Quarry, the famous Manufractured 5.11. A few others, But these stand out.
hooblie

climber
Apr 26, 2009 - 02:07am PT
thanks for the invitation. awfully proud of a few plums in ynp, but in glen aulen, which at 50 minutes from pavement shorting the cut, is suspended between the meadows, and the grand canyon of the tuolomne. GLOBAL EMBRACE, 11c, on pluto dome. renamed in the literature as primate crossing, and described by chicken skinner as one of the best cracks in yosemite, bad ass by another. best approach to it is on the slab. expect real bolts added to weeping moon, 10.a x. i don't believe in the x'ing the future just because i didn't stop and drill one day.

then there's primate crossing, above california falls, on wildcat point at the head of the grand canyon of the tuolomne. another plum, at 5.12 A1, i freed the aid moves, but not on lead placing pro. it awaits your attention after 22 years. crux is a longish, steeply rising, finger tip traverse, sharp edge, blindly slotted, drop in knife blade crack on vertical smears above a straight in, straight up, tips section. it challenged me to my trad core. come on out and name it what you will. don't leave it to a third party, son of a local comedian with a penchant for reporting to rename this stuff. trip report and photo shoot of this three pitch 'should be classic,' pending, but don't hold your breath. maybe by autumn. looking for a capable, female?, foto subject. or steal it away. lest i sport bolt it....that should stir the pot. happy earth day
Reilly

Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
Apr 26, 2009 - 02:49am PT
How 'bout one on a mountain that basically doesn't exist anymore? Would that be anti-posterity, posterity-proof, or just a figment to cling to as the sun sets?
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Apr 26, 2009 - 08:18am PT
Kevin;.....you are close;.....It's an angelic wife, I live as though I have no bills, and us teachers ;....we gets too much time off..........(My First FA was with Mike Paul in Feb. 1978)......in 31 years, you can bang out alot of FA's.......It' sort of like Blue Diamond Almonds;...a can a week is all we ask......
Nate D

climber
San Francisco
Apr 29, 2009 - 01:50pm PT
bump for hooblie to post any pictures of the Wildcat Point route, or anything near Glen Aulin. Any climbs on pt. 8,886 (or does it have a name)?
MisterE

Trad climber
One Step Beyond!
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2009 - 01:52pm PT
Those look stellar Chief! Way to get after it!

Edit: haha! Jason Chinchen - as I live and breathe!

The Hollywood schlepper himself! PM sent
Bob D'A

Trad climber
Boulder, CO
Apr 29, 2009 - 01:53pm PT
Maybe 1,500...maybe more. At this point it really doesn't matter that much.
coiler

Trad climber
The Rock Monkey Ranch
Apr 29, 2009 - 02:11pm PT
Many: in Cali. Colo. Az. Ut. Grade 1 to 6. Mostly Yosemite, Lovers leap, JT, North Coast etc.

List of Wall FAs:
T-Bag's Hangin' V 5.9 A3+
Spire it Up V 5.9 A3+
Operaton Bravo V 5.9 A3+
The Golden Road (to eternal obscurity) V 5.8 A3+
Monkeys Under Foot V 5.9 A3+
The Wild Apes Route V 5.9 A3+
The North Sea V 5.9 A3+
The New Age V 5.9 A3+
The Age Of Exploration V 5.9 A3+
Early Times aka Silent Skies V 5.9 A3+
Tora Bora V 5.9 A3+
The High Life V 5.9 A4
The Crucible VI 5.9 A4+
The Bagel Race (Var to Grape race (4 pitches) VI 5.9 A4+
hooblie

climber
Apr 29, 2009 - 02:44pm PT
nate d, sorry not familiar with pt. 8,886. spose it's right there on the topo, but we didn't study one. of all the junk i had hauled down there by the end of summer a camera wasn't on the list. i had gotten disgusted with the shots made on belay and had so much regard for eppie's photo's that i resolved to return and do serious photo work from proper vantage points. i'll be going there this summer with dave chung's ashes, my partner for that summer. will share all i know by email request.

i'm seeing an overview type picture posted by offwhite, the 2nd of 3 pics, on the 24th post on tuolmne appreciation thread. glen aulen is highlighted by evening sun, wildcat pt has the shadowed arete cut off by the toe of the intervening ridgeline. it's not at all what your asking for but the foreground is the shortcut over the hogsback and right on out there.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=454299&tn=20
cragnshag

Social climber
san joser
Apr 29, 2009 - 04:20pm PT
Hey evel, I was gonna say Manufractured, but you beat me to it in your 2nd post (I need to work less and goof off online more to catch the new topics early on). I've never done it, but a old friend of mine, the late Cale Shaffer, used to rave about doing laps on it. Cale grew up in PA and that quarry was his local crag, I believe. The 8th man-made wonder of the world.....

FA's- I've done a couple dozen in my life.... mostly Yosemite and the Sierras with a few in Jtree, Arizona, and New Mexico. I can somewhat relate to the Warbler's predominantly climbing FAs or FA repeats. There's just nothing like getting on new rock. I find myself climbing FAs in waves or climbing existing routes in waves. I'm not sure why.... Sometimes it comes down to having motivated partners to share the particular experience.






Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 29, 2009 - 04:52pm PT
coiler,

I have most of your FAs included in my online list (http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/yos/update.htm).
Got more details on these?
> Monkeys Under Foot V 5.9 A3+
> The Crucible VI 5.9 A4+

> The Bagel Race
I'll add this. Got more names and a date for it? Where does it exit/rejoin Grape Race? (Although I heard the Grape Race topo was not too good).
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 29, 2009 - 05:46pm PT
> WHAT drives a person to do hundreds of FA's and claim them? Its NOT exploration, not after the first hundred or so on a given wall, all I can see is its the ego of having one upped the masses.

No, I think it is still about exploration.
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Apr 29, 2009 - 09:41pm PT
Roxjox;.....I read your post, and I see how someone might think or feel that way;..you brought up some good points and expressed them well......sort of makes sense on paper;......but I personally don't feel that way at all. Clint Cummings is correct;...it's about the exploring...(for me, anyways...) I love climbing on unclimbed rock;....it facinates me, and it is so much more exciting than "know" climbs.....I just love the unknown......Where does the climbing go?....how difficult?....what about protection, rating, moves, rock quality,.....there is alot to it...and all of it I find very, very interesting........as far as the ego, granite masterbating, 200 years from now;........I'm way over that.....it's all about the climbing, the mystery, the discovery, the exploration, the unknown, and being out in nature with the homies....I just love to climb unclimbed rock....anywhere, anytime, in any weather, for any reason.....I don't need an audience, a magazine, a photo, or a line in a guidebook.......just the rock....As I get older (and weaker, and fatter, and I suck...)...the ego melts away, and I am just happy as a dog with two dicks just to be out craggin'.........I'm not saying that what you posted might be true for some in some context....but it's not what I do at all.........I appreciate what you say, and appreciate your thoughts and insite. Respectfully;...Todd Gordon ....a hopelessly addicted first ascentionist.......

Jingy

Social climber
Flatland, Ca
Apr 29, 2009 - 10:44pm PT
First Ascent:
High Anxiety V2 (X), Happy Boulders

Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Apr 30, 2009 - 02:25am PT
Roxjox;......thanks for further details into what you are trying to get at......yeah;.....the FA and the bolting and the guidebook issue can get stinky, can't it. I appreciate what you have to say, and agree with you that the whole first ascent scene can get out of hand, and it is fueled often by guidebooks , ego, and some not-so - proud misguided intrepretations .........too bad, for doing first ascents for Kevin and I and many of my friends is mostly an experiece of adventure and exciting exploration and personal discovery and wonderment.........usually far, far from the public eye in wonderful places. Appreciate you taking to the time to elaborate, and climbing's "dirty" side can be irritating and frustrating to all of us. You make some excellent points, and ....I don't really know what or if there are any answers;.......growing pains with our awesome sport, probably. Thanks again, and thank you for your articulate and respectful response to subjects which can easily get heated and "nasty."
Guidebooks and doing FAs are here to stay........and with the good comes the bad too;.......the bad is real;.....that is a given;......but the good side of guidebooks and doing FAs is a happy world too...........I love it , anyways. I have tasted the sour side of doing FAs.....I've pissed more than one person off and lost some valuable friendships over "climbing" related issues.......it's too bad, too......for I find it 99.9% of the time to be a very positive, exciting, and wonderful thing in my life...As for leaving FAs for future generations....in my travels, I keep on finding more and more and more unclimbed rock.....there is alot of it out there still...many generations worth actually;.. our wilderness world, though seemingly shrinking, is still quite wild and wooley....you just have to walk further to get to it.....a treat to those who have the desire, time, and patience to do so... ...thanks again for sharing your thoughts and insight.......I appreciate what you have to say.....(You don't sound strident and pissy......more frustrated and concerned.......)

Evel

Trad climber
the cliffs of insanity
Apr 30, 2009 - 02:33am PT
Cragnshag, at the risk of revealing my identity, I must admit that I did not climb the FA of Manufractured. I'm the sawyer.
hooblie

climber
Apr 30, 2009 - 11:36am PT
rokjox, it's great that you turned the light onto this aspect of the game. many of your thoughts have been my creedo for the best part of my days and you stated them better than i could.

most of my really proud stuff was done in montana and the locals there had established a policy of not publishing since long before i arrived. this i embraced because i wanted to honor established tradition, it fit with my inclination anyway, their recognition was sufficient,it served my purpose to not have the place swamped, and the cozy feeling of a neighborhood gang was very rewarding. as a californian especially i was gratefull to be let into the circle.

the oral reports got around unevenly and thirty years hence its becoming clear that we are a mysterious quantity to the currently active folks. it is indeed quaintly satisfying to have another generation "discover" routes that were done in the leave no trace style, and that should be to our credit if preservation of the wilderness means anything. but to tell the truth i didn't replace the debris to where i found it on the bivy ledges, or rappel solely off of bollards and chicken heads. never the less there's plenty of adventure left in those crags.

so to carry that ethic to an extreme is to engage in hubris and false modesty. this feels like sort of a trap and it can be seen as uncharitable to be furtive when asked to report. this is a dilema i find myself in now since a whole generation of energetic climbers in montana that i haven't even met would resent my posting my proudest achievements. those deeds now stand to be ignored or misconstrued, because what i've learned is that if you don't write history yourself you're acquiesing to have it made up by the guessers.

this is an interesting forum to find myself searching for the right balance between spraying and stifling oneself but from this old guys perspective, mum is not the whole enchilada. i should think that, as i sit here in a rocking chair, it would be ok to speak of deeds done in the glory days. within reason i suppose.

so to send my heart even further out on my sleeve, it's shakin out like this. if you pursue your passion and let the intrinsic rewards alone suffice for the day, there will come a time, when you are clearly a has been, that no one will know that you are not a never was. it's an ok human emotion, though perhaps not the noblest, to let it be known that i spied a vision, on god's rocky globe, that inspired me to scrap tooth and nail, to quiver and squeek with assertion that this passage was worth the nut to associate my being with that definitive statement in stone.

i'm surrounded by people who don't give a crap about that. to seek out a community that gets it seems like an antidote to this state of affairs i've wrought by pioneering in obscurity. i guess i'm copping to the fact that, while bubbling over with what feels like a blessing to be included in the golden age, its not enough, i can't keep a cork in it. so i'll make allowances for others who report fa's too.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Apr 30, 2009 - 11:56am PT
if you don't write history yourself you're acquiesing to have it made up by the guessers.

I agree, having learned that the hard way myself.

Interestingly, it's my impression that there was a trend "away from history" in the guidebooks
of the 1980s and 90s, coincident with the rise of topo guides and then sport climbing. During
this period, more guidebooks seemed to appear without history sections, or just cursory ones.
The stories and people behind the routes weren't in view, as they often had been in the better
1960s and 70s guidebooks.

In the 2000s, for reasons I don't know, history has been rediscovered (or written down for
the first time) by some of the best guidebook writers.
hossjulia

Trad climber
Eastside
Apr 30, 2009 - 11:58am PT
with Karen Wilson leading, Chocolate Decadence, JT 5.7.

If Dona and Karen were at the JT reunion, my bad for not seeking them out. :(
Barbarian

Trad climber
stealth camping and hiding from the man
Apr 30, 2009 - 12:01pm PT
1980 - Yosemite Valley

5.9 + (Old School)

Six Thirty - Manure Pile Buttress w/Julie
Barbarian - Glacier Point Apron w/Barb Lafayette
adam d

climber
CA
May 2, 2009 - 01:55am PT
thought this one was virgin territory til I found a 1/2" angle 30' from the top
(the middle spire is the one in question...New Fork Valley, Wind Rivers)

http://www.flickr.com/photos/adamdale/229540747/in/set-72157594260636668/

got to the summit and found two horrendous 1/4 inch bolts, nothing to sling and not a single crack. Time to downclimb!

When I made it back to that seemingly bomber piton, I found it dangling loose on my rope (which had never been weighted).

kudos to those who find a balance between sharing knowledge of new climbs, separating the ego, and keeping adventure alive.
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
May 2, 2009 - 12:06pm PT
A bunch of FA's at Williamson Rock in So Cal.

Some of my favorites were:

Dancing in the storm.
Wedding March
Our children's children
Second generation
World Beater

I would have to pull out the guide to tell what other routes I have done but probably 30-35 maybe more at Williamson.


A few FA's at Mt. Pacifico.


Keller Peak:
Impossible Concentration

A bunch up in the White Mountains East of Bishop that I never named and a few at Papoose Flats in the Inyo Mountains.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Aug 17, 2009 - 01:53am PT
regaining this thread. some quality insights in here. thx hooblie
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Sep 25, 2012 - 12:23am PT
Yes....exploration,,,,the unknown.

They're not "other people's routes."
2 l l

Sport climber
Rancho Verga, CA
Sep 25, 2012 - 12:34am PT
Pigeon Cliffs
Susanville, CA
good post.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Sep 25, 2012 - 12:59am PT
Todd Gordon, you hit 1000 already, right?

Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Sep 25, 2012 - 01:32am PT
yeah;....got to 1000 last year;......We found a couple more FAs last week;.....Whispering Chickens (5.7) and Chee Spurger (5.10+)......new routes are sort of like ants;...they are everywhere.....


Here's a few more to add to the list;......

364. Stark Naked 5.8 R. Ashbachar
365. 5 Barmaids in my Pocket 5.10b/c F. Bentwood, T. Tech, M. Syneck, G. Epperson
366. Miss Weiner Tot 5.10d G. Epperson, Beth
367. Alien Head 5.9+ B. Pinar, Greg, R. Ashbachar
368. Devil's Bacon 5.10+ T. Tech
369. Candyass 5.5 T. Tech, Will, F. Bentwood, James
370. Leaving Las Vegas 5.10- F. Bentwood, Pete, T. Tech, Blitzo
371. Laffy Taffy 5.7 T. Tech, Pete, Frances, G.Barerra, R. Barerra, D. Cox.
372. Holly Hipkiss 5.8 T. Tech
373. Va Jayjay 5.9 T. Tech, S. Swan
374. Funky Fresh (5.8) Wendall, Turk, T. Tech, Resa, Audrey, Marine, Will
375. The Hammer 5.8 Joyce, Wendall, L. Leichtfuss, tall guy
376. Tucker's dirty climb 5.8 (Rattlesnake) Wendall, Turk, Resa, Audrey, Marine, Will
377. Starbonne 5.8 F. Bentwood, G. Epperson, T. Tech
378. Angel's Desire 5.9 T. Tech, Turk, Resa, Audrey , Wendall, Marine
379. The Chick Magnet 5.9 R. Ashbachar, F. Bentwood
380. The Nee Nee 5.10- T. Tech, Pete
381. Horny Goat Weed (5.10-) T. Tech, G. Epperson, F. Bentwood
382. Beatin' Around the Bush (5.6) T. Tech, Teri, Pete, Kattie, Wendall
383. The Golden Parachute 5.9 T. Tech.
384. See Mop Who 5.10- K. Burnham
385. Dr. Dolittle 5.10- T. Pinar, J. Bridwell, T. Tech, R. Ashbachar, Peter
386. Manichean Jacobin 5.10+ Wendall Smith
387. Invisible Baby Jones 5.10+ Tucker Tech, Will Cass., G.Epperson, Tricia, F. Bentwood, R. Ashbacher, Peter
388. The Kracken 5.10- Tucker Tech, Will Cassalaro, G. Epperson, Tricia, Frank Bentwood, Rhesa Ashbachar, Peter
389. Honeycomb (5.10) Tucker Tech, Mary Moser, Frank Bentwood, Cody Dolnick
390. Sonic and the Hot Dog Water (5.5) Tucker Tech
391. Weapons of Mass Consumption (5.4) Tucker Tech, Tony/Vince/Marion Schiarelli, Cody Dolnick
392. Cougar.com (5.9) Tucker Tech, Tony/Vince/Mario Schiarelli, Cody Dolnick
393. Eine Dicke Frau (5.9) Tucker Tech, German Boy
394. Too Far from Water (5.7) Tucker Tech, Tricia Clay
395. Love Nugget (5.9) Tucker Tech
396. Respect The Pouch (5.9) Tucker Tech, Cody Dolnick
397. Doctor Robert Titzer (5.7) Tucker Tech, Cody Dolnick
398. Sugartits (5.9) Tucker Tech, Cody Dolnick
399. Swink (5.7) Tucker Tech, Will/Stephanie Cassalaro, Max Heinz, Max friend, Cody Dolnick
400. Hooters (5.9) Tucker Tech, Tim Pinar
401. Gym Bag (5.8) Tucker Tech, Tim Pinar, Gina/Rich Barrera
402. Have Another Round (5.7) Dave Cox, Justin Sagle,
403. It's All Gravy (5.8) Tony Moser, Mary Moser, Tucker Tech, Tom/Liz, Wendell Smith, Dave
404. Gobbler Traverse ( 5.8) Tony Moser, Mary Moser, Tucker Tech, Tom/Loz, Wendell Smith , Dave
405. Uncle Blazac (5.9) Mary Moser, Dave, Tucker Tech, Wendell Smith
406. General Delivery 5.7 Tucker Tech, Dave
407. Bologna Ponie 5.9 Tucker Tech, Rich Bararra, Wendall Smith, Cody Dolnick, Kurt Sanders,
408. Montana 5.10b Tucker Tech, Montana Couple, Rich Bararra, Kurt Sanders, Cody Dolnick, Wendall Smith , Gina Barrera
409. Wendall 5.6 corner Wendall Smith, Gina Bararra, Tucker Tech,
410. Montana 5.5 crack Montana Couple, Gina Bararra, Tucker Tech
411. Frank's Sandwich (5.10+) Tucker Tech, Kelly Vaught, Greg Epperson, Todd Gordon
412. Flanders 5.8 Sarah Alexander, Josh Flannagan 4-11
413. Rodeo Doggie 5.10b Kelly Vaught, Frank Bentwood, Tucker Tech 5-11
414. Over and Out 5.10- Kelly Vaught, Frank Bentwood, Rebecca Russel, Tucker Tech, Wendall Smith 6-11
415. The Golden One (5.10) Kelly Vaught, Frank Bentwood, Wendall Smith, Tucker Tech, Rebecca Russel 6-11
416. Wika (5.9+) Kelly Vaught, Frank Bentwood, Rebecca Russel, Wendall Smith, Tucker Tech 6-11
418. The Baboon (5.8) Tucker Tech, Wayne Burns, Tim Pinar, Sam, Kelly Vaught 7-11
419. Gerber (5.7) Tucker Tech, Rebecca Russell 7-11
420. Asshat (5.9) Tucker Tech, Rebecca Russell 7-11
421. Wax (5.10+) Kelly Vaught, Miriam Taylor, Shelby Beardsley
422. Hump-a-mania (5.8 ) Tucker Tech, Kelly Vaught, Dino, Miriam Taylor, Tim Pinar
423. Dino's Crack (5.8) Dino Blanco, Mirian Taylor, Tucker Tech, Tim Pinar
424. Space Shuffle (5.10b), Kelly Vaught, Tucker Tech, Miriam Taylor, Rebeca Russel,
425. I'm With Stupid (5.10b) Kelly Vaught, Tucker Tech, Dino Banco, Shelby Beardsley, Frank Bentwood, Cody Dolnick
426. Paco (5.9) Kelly Vaught, Tucker Tech
427. Medicinal Marajuana (5.8) Kelly Vaught, Tucker Tech
428. Blood Bath (5.10-) Dino Blanco, Kelly Vaught, Tucker Tech
429 Nerve Damage (5.10-) Dino Banco, Frank Bentwood, Nick, Tucker Tech
430. Brain Tumor (5.10-) Greg Epperson, Kelly Vaught, Frank Bentwood, Tim Pinar, Tucker Tech, Nick
431. Going Dutch (5.10b) Tucker Tech, Kelly Vaught
432. Cats at the Door (5.9) Rebeca Russel, Larry Tsang, Tucker Tech, Kelly Vaught, Frank Bentwood
433. Fried Monkey Butt (5.10-) Tucker Tech, Rebeca Russel, Tony Yeary, Steven Powell
434. Boing Loin (5.10b) Tucker Tech, Frank Bentwood, Andrew Jones, Shelby Beardsley, Kelly Vaught , Taylor Diel
435. Quat (5.9) Tucker Tech, Taylor Deal, Mark,
436. Honeysuckle Pickle Bear (5.10b) Kelly Vaught, Mark, Tucker Tech, Alley Welsh, Frank Bentwood,
437. Showers with Dad (5.10b) Tucker Tech, Kelly Vaught
438. Hillbilly Handfishin' (5.11) Todd Gordon
439. Squidbillies (5.9) Tucker Tech, Greg Epperson, Kelly Vaught, Shelby Beardsley
440. Taylor's Climb (Conquistador) (5.5) Taylor Diel, Tucker Tech, Ron Gomez, Andy Gorell, Kelly Vaught, Frank Bentwood, Ron Gomez, Matt
441. I Buried Roberta's Goat (5.8) John Long, Tucker Tech, Greg Epperson, Erin Guinn, Shelby Beardsley, Andrew Jones
442. Bee's Dick (5.8) John Long, Tucker Tech, Greg Epperson, Erin Guinn, Shelby Beardsley, Andrew Jones
443. Muffin Top (5.5) F.S.
444. Milkin' the Hamster (5.6) T. Tech, Wendall Smith , Riuchi, Hiroshi
445. Bedang (5.7) T.Tech, A.Jones, S. Beardsley, L.Murry, A. Gorril
446. Pap Pap Pace (5.7) T. Tech, A. Gorill
447. Groin (5.7) T. Tech, Michelle
448. Raid (5.8) T. Tech
449. Cz. Prison for Politicians (5.8) T.Tech, R. Bedan, Radim's friend
450. Loveumba (5.9) T.Tech, T. Madrid, Nick
451. Mighty Mitt (5.10a) T.Tech, Kelly Vaught
452. Glory Hole (5.10c) T.Tech, R. Russell, S. Beardsley, A. Jones, Marine pastor
453. Thunderwood (5.10) K.Vaught, F. Bentwood, T. Tech, G. Epperson
454. Whitney Houston Crack (5.9) T. Tech, W.Smith, Riauchi, Hiroshi
455. Smoked Salmon (5.9) T.Tech, Riauchi, Hiroshi, W. Smith
456. Narrow Minded (5.10b) T. Tech, A. Gorill
457. Bumpit (5.10) T. Tech, W. Smith, A. Gorill, K. Vaught, F. Bentwood, S. Beardsley, A. Jones
458. Polyamorous (5.10) T. Tech, W. Smith, T. Yeary

I like to climb......
Guangzhou

Trad climber
Asia, Indonesia, East Java
Sep 25, 2012 - 01:54am PT
Chiloe: Writing history in guidebooks and having it rediscovered in the 2000 editions. I have to wonder if the Internet and modern communication has made that more possible.

I wrote a small guidebook in the late 90s, finidng the history was extremely difficult. There were only a couple of route developers who put up most of the routes and they had move to other parts of the country. Took me a few month track two of them down for details. Once I had those two, the third was easier to find. Still, the whole process was started by mail, thanks to postal service forwarding service some letters arrived. From mail cam phone conversations.

Eventually three of us got together at an area we all wanted to climb for a week. We climbed and talked about the crag they developed.

Today, I think I could have tracked everyone down much quicker, but even with modern technology and the internet, tracing people is still quite difficult.

A few years back I wrote a guidebook to climbing on Okinawa. I had established roughly 100 routes across the island, new the main developer of routes prior to me, he had roughly 100 routes done too. (not all were included in the guide for various reasons) Other routes, we could find vague references as to who or when they were put up.

Several times I found myself on a first ascent only to discover some rusted piton halfway up a pitch. Some pitons I was able to trace, others will never be known.


To the original question, I guess I have over 500 routes put up now. I've never really counted or kept track. One partner I had counted what I did in Okinawa and then China and told me.

Not sure how many I want to put up. From a first ascent point of view, I've been very lucky, I keep relocating to places that have untouched rock. Of course, it would be nice to go somewhere where other climbers did the work before me on my next move.

Some of my FA are shot, 15 meters sport routes, other are long 15 pitch trad or aid routes. Most are somewhere in between. All were fun to establish and I had some great partners helping. (Read very patient partners)

Cheers
Eman
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Sep 25, 2012 - 02:02am PT
Eman....

You said it all.

Happy climbing.
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Sep 25, 2012 - 02:21am PT
Climbed a bunch of worthless looking things this summer - all FAs. It was fun.
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Sep 25, 2012 - 10:13am PT
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Sep 25, 2012 - 10:16am PT
All of my first ascents were scraped away by the last Ice Age.
steveA

Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
Sep 25, 2012 - 10:26am PT
Jim,

Good one!
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
Sep 25, 2012 - 08:41pm PT
My first ascents:

North Rib of Mount Dana, Sierra Nevada, III. 5.4, 1982

Pillar Route, Petite Capucin, Sierra Nevada, II, 5.10a, 1979

North Face of the Hound's Tooth, Bugaboos, III, 5.4, 1982
rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
Sep 25, 2012 - 10:49pm PT
I did one first ascent that wasn't scraped away by Donini's last ice age. I'm quite proud of it; it's called Ass Of Dog about 5.3d in JT i think.
splitter

Trad climber
Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
Sep 25, 2012 - 10:56pm PT
donini - all my first ascents were scraped away by the last Ice Age.

This one still remains; FA Torre Egger ('76) with John Bragg!
Gary

Social climber
Monza by the streetlight
Sep 25, 2012 - 11:35pm PT

Tough Shiites, 5.7. Not much of a route, but it was fun. It's always windy at the arete, which is the real crux, sometimes it is really blowing.

Over on mountainproject, somebody followed the line of bolts and claimed a FA.
wilbeer

Mountain climber
honeoye falls,ny,sawdust does not work like chalk
Sep 26, 2012 - 11:11am PT
damn slr,awesome,i hope you skied dana
sac

Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
Sep 26, 2012 - 08:24pm PT

Found this crag... and had some real fun.
Messages 1 - 76 of total 76 in this topic
Return to Forum List
 
Our Guidebooks
spacerCheck 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks

guidebook icon
Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Recent Route Beta