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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 9, 2015 - 11:31am PT
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or just some help fixing pitches. looking for somebody from the bay to share driving to valley and back while fixing through may, and then blasting mid june. we are 3 strong climbers with about 190 ascents of el cap between us. while it would be nice to have somebody with A3 nailing experience, we are willing to take a psyched noob. or, if anybody wants to just help a day or two, they could get a taste for extreme aid without being in mortal danger while fixing the lower pitches.
Sincerely, Steve Schneider
PS By the way, THE REAL NOSE is a difficult aid route just right of the regular Nose route.
ref: Yosemite big walls reid, page 72
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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what sort of time commitment would you be looking for?
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Topic Author's Reply - May 9, 2015 - 07:21pm PT
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ed, ten day final push from june 15 to june 25, with fixing . ss
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Golden opportunity for anyone in SF Bay Area with the time available! Have fun Steve.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Go for it Ed! It's got your name all over it!
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WBraun
climber
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Aid climb right next to one of the greatest free climbs in the world?
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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The directissima. Very cool. Go for it Ed!
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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May 10, 2015 - 05:23am PT
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I bet someone looses a toenail.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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May 10, 2015 - 06:08am PT
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Steve, I'm a qualified n00b! I've only done 10 El Cap routes. Unfortunately I will be driving my daughter to Oregon around 15 June. If you hear someone yelling at you around the 20th.....it might be me. Hey I hear you had a good chat with Robbie the other day. I just talked to him yesterday. Anyway, go get 'em you big studs!
Peace, Bruce B.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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May 10, 2015 - 08:45am PT
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Damn, if i didn't have a job...
ED you should jump this mother, once in a lifetime chance.
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Gagner
climber
Boulder
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May 10, 2015 - 09:03am PT
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Bruce - How's Robbie?
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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May 10, 2015 - 09:18am PT
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Paul, I'll try to send a PM.
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2015 - 11:39am PT
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the problem with trying to get partners from the bay area is that everybody has full time jobs here, it being so expensive just to live here. still no hits for the whole route, but some people might be able to help me fix pitches in may.
survival, you are not a noob, you are a old, smart, fart like myself.
paul, robbie sounds good, i had not talked to him in 19 years. he has worked the last ten years as a journeyman electrician on the island of lanai. he is 65 now, just recovering from shoulder surgery.
ss
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2015 - 12:16pm PT
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tradhog, we are qualified to have a rip roaring party on any el cap route we want to do...just looking for a 4th person to make up two full climbing teams, as in take a rest day every other day on the wall. ss
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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May 10, 2015 - 02:06pm PT
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Yosemite big walls reid, page 72
damn I love it when you quote the word of the lord!
sorry steve gotta work.
whoever goes will be in the hands of one of the best in the business!!
have fun..
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Gene
climber
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May 10, 2015 - 02:40pm PT
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The spirit is willing, but the flesh is weak.
have fun!
Gene
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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May 10, 2015 - 04:09pm PT
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@TradHog, I assume you missed this line in the OP?
PS By the way, THE REAL NOSE is a difficult aid route just right of the regular Nose route.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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May 10, 2015 - 06:09pm PT
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things don't line up for this for me,
and besides, it would be my first wall, and while psyched, my participation would add an unnecessary element of risk for the experienced team.
but the idea of it certainly has me wishing to be able to commit, right now only a wish...
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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May 10, 2015 - 06:50pm PT
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That lycra should good for at least a pitch or two. Would be cool for you just to tag along for a day and check it out. But it doesn't sound like that's what they're looking for.
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Chris Gibson
Trad climber
Frisco, Texas
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May 10, 2015 - 07:03pm PT
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I'm willing to go and put in the work from beginning to end.
Christopher Gibson
You can also contact me through that other climbing forum.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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May 10, 2015 - 08:32pm PT
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This is like de la Hoya looking for someone to hold the mitts before a fight, better get on it!
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Chris Gibson
Trad climber
Frisco, Texas
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May 10, 2015 - 09:00pm PT
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I'm trying and I am not one to let an opportunity when I see it slip by. What I lack in experience I make up for with cojonas. I've got wall gear with no scratches and a haul bag with no wear. I'm your guy.
Christopher Gibson
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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May 10, 2015 - 09:29pm PT
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Yes eKatQuestionMama, none other than THE Robbie Lesher is who we speak of. I first climbed with him when I was 15, about 40 years ago, damn....
He's been in Hawaii for a long time now. Wish I could see him again.
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Topic Author's Reply - May 11, 2015 - 10:18am PT
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well, i got some help fixing pitches this month, but still waiting for a real adventurer to step up. i left a message for chris gibson just upthread, who says that he is my guy, so...maybe that will work out.ss
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Chris Gibson
Trad climber
Frisco, Texas
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May 11, 2015 - 11:39am PT
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Sent a pm message, with my email and phone number. I didn't see your message so I left my number and email cgibson@friscowilderness.com
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brotherbbock
Trad climber
Alta Loma, CA
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May 11, 2015 - 12:00pm PT
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Why is it called the "real" nose?
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xtrmecat
Big Wall climber
Kalispell, Montanagonia
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May 11, 2015 - 12:10pm PT
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Steve, glad to see this coming together for you.
I am wrestling with myself, and have been for a couple days on whether to reply again this year or not. The wife is not in favor of it at all, but that could change, providing I do some work to prep. I would love to do the final push with you guys, but there are some things you should know.
I have been working like a dog for the last year, and haven't been able to maintain anything even remote to a workout, or staying in shape. Even though my work is blue collar, and very physical, it by no means kept me in the shape I was in. My wife has a concern in this area, and I can't blame her. (Don't care about honesty or airing my laundry on the inturdsnet, especially here.)
I need a project like this to make the needed changes in life, and am willing to commit or bail by Wednesday. If you are still interested in me as a team member, let me know. I am commiting to the lifestyle changes anyhow, just wouldn't mind using this as the excuse.
My nailing experience is somewhat less than you desire, mostly due to my wall experience is almost exclusively the Cap, and Zion in winter. Not ideal places to bash fingers all day long. I also make it my best effort to do only clean climbing, and only have resorted to the hammer when I rip a fixed piece or cannot hook my way through. Just the way I prefer to climb. This doesn't mean I haven't headed or rurped anything, just not a longish stretch anywhere.
I will get on the phone with the boss after I hit the post button, and have the talk with the little woman tonight after her workday ends. The last of the pack of cigareetes will be gone this afternoon, and the bike/cardio training gets underway in about three hours, after I proof the prints to my new house.
If interested in me again this year, you can respond here and we can chat. I no longer have your number in my phone, so I will send you a message with my contact information. No worries if you are going to hold out for any reason, I will not get all but>hurt or bent over it.
Looking forward to this thing getting done either way.
Burly Bob
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WBraun
climber
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May 11, 2015 - 12:58pm PT
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Why is it called the "real" nose?
Because the other "Nose" is not real .....
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brotherbbock
Trad climber
Alta Loma, CA
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May 11, 2015 - 01:18pm PT
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Why is it called the "real" nose?
Because the other "Nose" is not real .....
Yeah don't make a bit of sense to me.
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WBraun
climber
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May 11, 2015 - 01:30pm PT
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If it makes sense you haven't climbed.
Climbing is so senseless .... :-)
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
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May 11, 2015 - 02:08pm PT
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Ian,
Maybe you should delete? What's done is done.
Arne
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brotherbbock
Trad climber
Alta Loma, CA
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May 11, 2015 - 02:19pm PT
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Don't delete man.
People are too sensitive.
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Topic Author's Reply - May 12, 2015 - 09:06am PT
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well, it looks like i have somebody from texas willing to come out and give a tryout, so i do not think i need anybody now...although i can start a waitlist with extremecat on the top of it. thanks for responding people and get out there, steve
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r2d2
Trad climber
East Bay
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May 12, 2015 - 12:13pm PT
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Good luck and be safe Steve!
Jennifer
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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May 12, 2015 - 02:04pm PT
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Texas? You are screwed before you start.
edit: oh, wait; I'm from Texas....
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Brock Wagstaff
Trad climber
Larkspur
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May 12, 2015 - 02:21pm PT
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Hey Steve - Rumor has it your brother Bob is "retired", as in retired from work. Since he did the old standard Nose in 1969 he'd no doubt be up for another go. Have fun and be safe. Brock
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David C
Trad climber
UK
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May 13, 2015 - 01:08pm PT
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Steve,
I have sent you an email
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jul 17, 2015 - 11:31pm PT
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Ha, I just found this post now.
We did indeed find our man: Cristobal Senoret Zobeck, who was Chile's Alpinist of the Year for all the rad stuff he did down on the towers in Patagonia. Man, can this boy climb! You should have seen him flying up the wyde 5.10 and 5.11 cracks on the way up to El Cap Tower.
He also gets our style of ascent:
We had so much fun climbing The Real Nose, we climbed the Unreal Nose a few days later. 15 hours, not bad for our first try, we figured.
Thanks for a great wall, "Tola!" Here's hoping there is some wine tasting in Chile in our future this winter.
Cheers, eh?
Your "hermano" Pete
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jul 18, 2015 - 07:42am PT
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So Pete..you did an el cap wall in 15 hours? Even with a rope gun, thats ...
not quite your normal style..
I wasn't sure you could walk across EC meadow that fast. hehe
Cheers and congrats on your spring season!
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