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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 14, 2013 - 11:36pm PT
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The Hossjulia initiated City of Rocks climbing get-together came off starting this past Monday, June 10th. Participants included the following: donini and his 2 German friends Max and Stephi, Fritz, Heidi, Ezra Ellis, and several non-Taco participants: Ralph T, plus several others.
I just arrived home and haven't transferred any pictures to my computer, but there will be many!
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 15, 2013 - 02:39am PT
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Tuesday, day 2 of the get-together: Fritz, donini, and I went to the Decadent Wall for starters, and "Twilight" was first on the bill of fare:
next stop was a route listed in the Bingham guidebook with the name sanitized to "Jay Goodwin Route." I won't list the name by which it is more commonly known to avoid pissing off the management of this site.
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Jun 15, 2013 - 09:30am PT
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Damn, looks like fun.
Still never been to that place.
Rick
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Jun 15, 2013 - 11:11am PT
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Nice looking rock!
Is Donini running it out or is Fritz a questionable belayer? Lot of slack in the rope. ;-)
Looking forward to my visit next Thursday.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 15, 2013 - 11:54am PT
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After being chased off the Decadent Wall by a thunderstorm and lightning, we adjourned to Bath Rock and "Rollercoaster."
Day 3 turned out with a similar weather pattern...dodging showers and lightning. Two German climbers were sharing Fritz's campsite: Max and Stephi were from the Munich area, and knew donini from an earlier meeting in Patagonia.
Stephi made a valiant attempt on "Carol's Crack."
Meanwhile, donini and Fritz were on "Adolescent Homo," a climb right next door...
The showers persisted, but we went through the "Bloody Fingers Corridor," and Max wanted to lead "Bloody Fingers."
There was more climbing in the Bloody Fingers area, but we baile out FAST due to some nearby lightning strikes. Ralph managed to get down very fast and we all shagged a$$ outta' there, muy pronto.
Day 4:
Ezra Ellis arrived that morning, and we dawdled around camp a bit because it was pretty chilly for mid June. Jim and Ezra set off to Bath Rock, West Side where Jim led "Private Idaho" in his usual fine form. The rest of us all bailed into the Sun, where Ralph led the wonderful "Cowboy/Cowgirl Route," 5.5, ***. Since there were 4 of us he split it into 2 pitches.
All 4 of us climbed the first pitch, but I bailed at that point due to a continuing queasy stomach.
After this we took a lunch break, and we all decided to go down to the "Inner City," in order to escape from the wind and chilly conditions.
To be continued...
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 15, 2013 - 11:57am PT
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Spider--
The belay was purely hypothetical on "Twilight," since Jim didn't place any pro on the entire 100' pitch.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Jun 15, 2013 - 01:08pm PT
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Spider,
Donini never places gear, I did a few climbs with him last year in JT and he never placed a single piece. He figures if he can fit his hand in a crack there is no way he is coming out of it. Sounds good to me, I just made sure I plenty of room to run if he cratered.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 15, 2013 - 02:21pm PT
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The saga continues...
I took 116 photos this trip, and all are climbing-related; no campsite shots, but when Fritz chimes in we should have some fun stuff.
4th day afternoon; we all trudged down into the Inner City for wind avoidance and some sunny warmth. Donini and Ezra took off to find some "better routes," (that means waaay harder ones than us mere mortals can climb...)
Ralph, Fritz, Heidi and I contented ourselves with "Raindance," an very nice "full value 5.7" that has achieved "trade route status" at the City.
I then followed the pitch, but didn't really have any good photo options; Fritz and Ezra will both post a few shots of my efforts later.
Here's Fritz getting ready to climb..
Ezra returned from around the rock and informed Ralph that he and donini had left a rope on another climb for him to retrieve; "only an easy 5.10," he said.
There are lots more photos that I could post, but I'd rather let Fritz and Ezra have some fun with their pictures first!
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weezy
climber
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Jun 15, 2013 - 02:57pm PT
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aww man, the cowboy route. one of my all time faves. whenever i'd pull into COR the first thing i'd do is go run up that thing a few times. i miss the city.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Jun 15, 2013 - 04:22pm PT
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I understand that Crimpie and BN are headed that way. . .
Rick--I haven't been either, we should head up there some day. . .
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jun 15, 2013 - 06:36pm PT
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"__ on parade"?
They don't name 'em like that,any more!
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moacman
Trad climber
Montuckyian Via Canada Eh!
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Jun 15, 2013 - 07:12pm PT
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The City is just way too much fun..........Thanx for sharing.....
Stevo
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wilbeer
Mountain climber
honeoye falls,ny.greeneck alleghenys
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Jun 15, 2013 - 07:41pm PT
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Very inspirational,TFPU. Cheers.
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Jun 15, 2013 - 08:32pm PT
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Just back from "The City,"---but it's only a two-hour drive for me.
Kudos to Brokedown for posting story and photos and congrats to him for getting up the first pitch of Raindance. Hope I'm still able to follow 5.7 at age 75.
Unfortunately as he traversed right to left above me, I was shooting right at the sun.
It was an inspirational trip for me. I had met Ralph Tingey last fall at Indian Creek, but had not climbed with him. The man is a very young & happy 70, and considering his brand new hip, is an amazing climber and an incredibly fun person to just be around.
Donini is always both fun and amazing to be around.
It was also fun to climb with "the kids." Max & Stephi from Bavaria and Ezra from ST & Idaho. Ezra had the time of his life for two days of Donini abuse.
I know Heidi has more photos as do I. I'll try to get some photos and story posted.
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Jun 15, 2013 - 08:57pm PT
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Spider! As mentioned above, Donini doesn't "over protect" easy routes, and the belayers main job is to smoothly feed him rope. He put in one piece on Adolescent Homo, one on Private Idaho, and usually clips some, if not all bolts on Sport Routes above a 5.10 level.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 16, 2013 - 12:07am PT
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When Ralph arrived and didn't know where we were, he asked some younger climbers: "Where's all the gray hair?" They sent him unerringly to us over at the base of Bloody Fingers.
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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Jun 16, 2013 - 08:52am PT
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Looks like fun, Tacos!
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
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Jun 16, 2013 - 09:48am PT
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Ezra returned from around the rock and informed Ralph that he and donini had left a rope on another climb for him to retrieve; "only an easy 5.10," he said.
It was way over rated, maybe 5.10b at best, I can't climb 5.10d that easily.....:)
It's ok to sand bag on toprope :)
It was a true pleasure to meet Ralph T, Brokendownclimber (Rodger), Fritz, Heidi and see Doninni again, maybe when Donini hits 80 I'll be able to keep up with him :)
Renny Jackson and his partner (wife?) were also great people @ the camp fire!!!!
I'll post pics later :)
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
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Jun 16, 2013 - 12:03pm PT
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Thanks for the great times Y'all!!!!
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 16, 2013 - 01:31pm PT
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More great photos! Thanks Ezra!
I did a little exposure adjustment and cropping on the one featuring "yours truly."
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Jun 16, 2013 - 08:39pm PT
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It wasn't all wonderful at COR last week.
It was: Magnesium Chloride the City-roads week.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnesium_chloride
The process leaves the roads wet and the soil sticky. Every vehicle visiting COR last week left with a souvenir thick coating of sticky wet dirt. I washed my car twice on the way home, and still have chunks of dirt sticking in the wheel wells and falling off in my driveway.
We had a little distant thunder on Tuesday and got rained out at 1:30 PM. I had just made it to the top of Roller-Coaster on Bath Rock when the heavens opened on me. I rigged a rappel in pouring rain and we retreated to Base Camp.
Wednesday was a little wet in the morning. We were up high in “the city” at Deviant Wall and little thunder-showers kept marching by.
Donini led Adolescent Homos early on and then it rained. After a wet wait for better weather, I followed the wet route. As Brokedown noted, we then went around to the Bloody Fingers side, where Ralph found us.
Donini put ropes up on a recently bolted route that matches up to a 5.7R named Mystery Achievement, and then the classic 5.8 Twist & Crawl. (Classic because the first protection bolt is about 40 feet up).
I hurried up the 5.7, thinking it was going to rain any second, then belayed the recently arrived Ralph up the 5.8 as the thunder picked up volume and the rain started dribbling. Ralph rushed up the route and arrived at the top just in time to note a lightning ground-strike a mile away. He encouraged a couple slightly lost younger climbers to use his rappel rope and got the hell off the rock, as it started raining harder.
It was another 1:30 PM retreat and storms rolled through all afternoon.
Thursday was windy and cold in the shade, but the afternoon was OK despite threatening clouds.
Friday, we went to nearby Castle Rock State Park which is a little lower and warmer than the city and had a great day climbing in the sun. High temp that I noted at 5:00 PM was 63 degrees F.
It was back to warm for this weekend.
Some photos by Heidi, of Donini, Ezra, & Ralph on City Girls 5.10D.
So----for some 5.10D relief, Heidi walked back down and took a "flex-salute" shot of me on 5.7 Raindance.
Then Ralph finally got off his position as the "belay-meister" on Raindance and discovered his next task was to climb and clean City Girls.
He was not pleased, but "manned-up" and climbed the route competently and even seemed to enjoy the challenge.
This photo shows how overhanging the last part of City Girls is.
The day was not over, even though another storm was approaching. While Brokedown & Heidi hiked up and out to our vehicle, Ralph & I hiked over to catch Donini & Ezra on Bumblie Rock. They had just finished a 10a and talked Ralph into hanging around for more climbing, while I hiked out.
Sigh!
Those boys!
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 16, 2013 - 08:45pm PT
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I was playing with a new camera which has a 30x optical zoom, in addition to being a 16 megapixel sensor. (Canon SX500IS).
This feature enables lots of neat stuff to be photographed:
More of Ralph on Flaming Rock, the City Girls Route:
Fritz and Heidi! I know you're holding out on us! Post up!
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Jun 16, 2013 - 08:52pm PT
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Simul-posting! I posted Heidi's photos at 5:39PM and Brokedown posts his and a question at 5:43PM.
Great minds do think alike!
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 16, 2013 - 08:58pm PT
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^^^^
Of course!
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Jun 17, 2013 - 12:13am PT
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Donini sorting gear for the day. Please note the small number of blue Camalots.
Worse yet!
In four days of climbing: I didn't see him place a blue Camalot!
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 17, 2013 - 09:41am PT
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^^^^^
He only needs a few for anchors.
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MisterE
Social climber
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Jun 17, 2013 - 09:55am PT
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Great trip report! Man, I miss the City of Rocks...
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Jun 17, 2013 - 10:26am PT
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Great TR and photos. Looks like ya'll got er done, and in style, nice.
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dirt claud
Social climber
san diego,ca
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Jun 17, 2013 - 10:28am PT
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Looks like everyone is having a great time out there, thanks for the pics and update, hope to make it out there some day.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 17, 2013 - 10:39am PT
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Main thing is...WE ALL HAD FUN!
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philo
Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
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Jun 17, 2013 - 12:51pm PT
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^^^ That much is clear ^^^
Man what a cool trip. I'm diggin on this thread.
I wanted to come and almost did. But luckily I didn't because this happened.
Broken tie rod = Beached Burban.
Glad it happened at the entrance to the parking lot of the crag we went to Saturday. and not on the Interstate. Not a pleasant thought while doing 70mph. There are worse ways to spend Father's day. Wearing dirt for a shirt in a room with no view being one of them.
Glad I can say to you all that it looks like a fantastic time was had.
Glad I "missed" it.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 17, 2013 - 05:25pm PT
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Philo-
Yikes! That doesn't look good! Glad you didn't try to make it given the condition of your wheels; but we all would have appreciated your presence.
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Jun 17, 2013 - 11:26pm PT
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Bump for COR!
I'm back there on the evening of Wed. June 19th to meet and climb with Spider from ST, on Thursday. Any other ST'ers around?
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 17, 2013 - 11:50pm PT
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Next time I go...no more cantaloupe! Ugh! The store-sliced chunks really make me sick for a day and a half; I shoulda' known better!
A great piece of gear for the City is a 70 meter rope! Planning to buy one at the Neptune "Diamond" show...
Fritz-
Wish I could make it again, but tied up with a business deal.
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
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Jun 18, 2013 - 12:32am PT
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Magnesium Chloride at the city of rocks? I hate that stuff. It's bad enough that you have to suck it all winter but now they store so much of it they put it on the gravel roads in summer too. Talk about RUST!
Arne
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Jun 18, 2013 - 12:44am PT
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Arne! Sorry that you and your great wife and climbing-kids weren't there!
It was warmer and less windy than last June!
I still have chunks of Magnisium Chloride dirt dropping off below my car. Turns out that higher humidity makes it softer and more likely to fall off coated surfices.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Jun 18, 2013 - 12:50am PT
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Just finished packing the case of wine. Rolling out tomorrow. Site 24 on Wednesday & Thursday.
Fritz- bring cheese. I'm not bringing a cooler.
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
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Jun 21, 2013 - 10:22pm PT
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spider, sorry I missed you,
lets see some more pics Y'all
you too crimpie and Brass Nuts!!!
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Jun 21, 2013 - 11:45pm PT
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I had a great day with my Swiss guide, Fritz.
COR is okay but there are too many holds. Next time I'm bringing my hammer to clean some of them off.
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Jun 22, 2013 - 01:13pm PT
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Great day with the Spiderman, but I only took one photo.
Late afternoon, after much climbing, we bumped into some Boulderites who knew Brassnuts & Crimpergirl and their camp location.
After actually climbing until 5:00 PM, we visited them. Pente, their desert-cat was in fine shape too.
Thursday night was cold, but way too windy to build a fire, with dried cheat-grass 10 feet from our fire-pit. Brassnuts & Crimpergirl came up for a visit and some Spider-wine, but we all froze out by 9:00 PM.
Spider had to leave early the next morning, and we were both up by 6:00 A.M. for a cold & windy start to what looked like a cold & rainy first day of summer. But that's another story.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Jun 22, 2013 - 02:18pm PT
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Locker, it's pretty tough, but if you come up again next year, I'll lead it for you if you want. ;-P
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Jun 22, 2013 - 03:27pm PT
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Locker! Worse yet it's not bolted. Spider actually put things in the crack that he said would catch him if he fell. Strange schist dooede.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 22, 2013 - 10:04pm PT
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And I missed it!
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Jun 24, 2013 - 03:57pm PT
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The Facebook page for City of Rocks National Reserve had this photo & comment today:
Highest elevation rattler observed at City of Rocks was about 6,300 feet
this one pictured here was photographed just west of Elephant Rock.
Heidi, Brokedown, & I were over on the west-side of Elephant Rock about 10 days ago, checking out the walk-off route. Since it was 50 degrees and windy, I was not thinking about it being rattler habitat.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jun 24, 2013 - 04:35pm PT
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Give that snake some shoulders, legs and a bark.....then move over to keep from getting trampled by people wanting to pet it.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 24, 2013 - 06:04pm PT
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Any snake experts here know what the species might be? I suspect it's a Timber Rattlesnake, and it sure isn't a Prairie Rattlesnake from the coloration.
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Jun 24, 2013 - 08:04pm PT
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Sorry Brokedown. I forgot your scientific nature.
The website said it was a Great Basin Rattlesnake.
From the Idaho State U. website on the subject:
http://imnh.isu.edu/digitalatlas/bio/reptile/serp/crvi/crvi.htm
There are three subspecies of Western Rattlesnake that occur in Idaho, and they are different enough in coloration to warrant additional description.
The subspecies found in the southwestern portion of the state is the Great Basin Rattlesnake (Crotalus viridis lutosus). These snakes have less distinct markings on the head, and less prominent body blotches that are irregular in shape and may have light colored centers (Nussbaum et al. 1983). However, I have encountered juvenile Great Basin Rattlesnakes that have light colored outlines around their blotches and on either side of the dark eye stripe. Great Basin Rattlesnakes have a range of ground colors that varies among individuals. The ground color can be buff-gray, yellowish gray or light brown (Cobb 1996).
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labrat
Trad climber
Auburn, CA
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Jun 24, 2013 - 08:08pm PT
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Cool! I'm arriving on Saturday and I hope my girlfriend does not see one......
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2014 - 06:39pm PT
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This was a great trip, and would have been even better without eating cantaloupe chunks that really made me sick...
Well...I'm really "up" for the upcoming June CoR Taco Get-together. I feel better now--mentally and physically--than any time since 2010. The Dolomites last September did a lot to heal both my spirit and body. So, watch out this year, Fritz!
Yeah, I'll be hanging some with the Texas Buttheads up by Breadloaves (watch out Philo and Gilroy!).
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Gilroy
Social climber
Bolderado
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Can't wait to stretch out a rope over some of that fine CoR granite with you, Rodger! We have been talking about it for too long. Time to get it done...
Keith
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 8, 2014 - 01:58pm PT
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Keith-
You're on! I have plans to lead that 4.8c...or was it 4.8d?
Actually it's right at the Group Campsite: Indian Chief Rock, Flake Route.
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Gilroy
Social climber
Bolderado
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Zawn, BDC! As long as I can handle the approach. :) I bet there's at least a day of 5.fun climbs we can string together, so count on it.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 8, 2014 - 04:01pm PT
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Keith, we can do a long morning or afternoon on just the East Face of Window Rock, with 5-6 climbs there for mere mortals:
Fun Stuff: 5.6
Pure Pleasure: 5.6
Drunken Cowboy: 5.7
Juniper Jam: 5.6
Easy Way Up: 5.5
Masochist Crack: 5.8
Rodger
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