Discussion Topic |
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 26, 2013 - 05:06pm PT
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This blows my mind:
STORY
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 26, 2013 - 05:11pm PT
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Wow!
My favorite part;
""I stood in silence for a few minutes and thanked Cerro Torre, and then descended as quickly as possible back down to Markus," wrote Pucher."
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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Feb 26, 2013 - 05:12pm PT
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Very impressive! I'm going to wait for the ice mushroom to melt.
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Feb 26, 2013 - 05:12pm PT
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Wild!
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adikted
Boulder climber
Tahooooeeeee
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Feb 26, 2013 - 06:23pm PT
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WOAH!!
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Feb 26, 2013 - 06:34pm PT
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Amazing!
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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Feb 26, 2013 - 06:42pm PT
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sled teams
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Feb 26, 2013 - 08:17pm PT
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Didn't chop no bolts and just sent it. Proud.
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weezy
climber
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Feb 26, 2013 - 08:32pm PT
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that poor lonely compressor...out there flappin in the wind with narry a crampon's touch nor a pick's caress in so long.. not since The Decision.
the ragni is like the homely little sister who got her braces off and is all growed up now. with the maestri's wing's clipped, the line of suitors are plowing thru her snowy tunnel in droves. someone's gonna get their heart broken, or lose an eye. one of the two.
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MH2
climber
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Feb 26, 2013 - 08:54pm PT
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kunlun_shan
Mountain climber
SF, CA
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Feb 26, 2013 - 09:01pm PT
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Love that its someone I and most others are probably not familiar with.
Reminds me of Steve Brewer. of course everyone knew Bridwell, but not the other mystery Californian way back when.
Now Markus Pucher. Mindblowing...
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Crackslayer
Trad climber
Eldo
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Feb 26, 2013 - 09:49pm PT
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How do you even do that? This is really rad, no one ever thought this was possible. I wonder how hard the rock pitches were?
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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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Feb 26, 2013 - 09:53pm PT
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kids these days.... something else I tell ya....
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Feb 26, 2013 - 10:08pm PT
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Very wonderful. A thing of great visionary quality. Five hours.
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storminjoe
Trad climber
Westminster
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Feb 26, 2013 - 11:07pm PT
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Inspiring!
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ec
climber
ca
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Feb 26, 2013 - 11:09pm PT
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That took some Pucher Power!
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enjoimx
Trad climber
Yosemite, ca
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Feb 26, 2013 - 11:18pm PT
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"Pucher writes, "[T]he final pitch that leads to the summit, is a vertical and slightly overhanging wall of ice, 50m [164 feet] high. The ice on Cerro Torre is unlike all other ice one usually encounters when ice climbing, it's a strange mix of snow and air and this makes it all rather unstable.""
So, how does one reverse the ice mushroom, even if he had a short rope, there is no anchor at the top, how would you rap? You can't down climb overhanging ice. Is there an easier down climb on a different aspect? Really can't figure this problem out.
Thanks
Badass ascent
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Feb 26, 2013 - 11:24pm PT
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"An impressive performance that leaves us speechless."
I'm feeling that!
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Gersh
Trad climber
San Diego, Ca
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Feb 27, 2013 - 12:27am PT
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Wow! How proud is THAT?
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Feb 27, 2013 - 12:57am PT
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amazing. who made the first solo ascent of this route, and how was that ascent not "free"?
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kunlun_shan
Mountain climber
SF, CA
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Feb 27, 2013 - 01:05am PT
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^ from the OP link - http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/austrian-free-solos-cerro-torre
Pucher's solo of Cerro Torre marks the second time someone has climbed solo to the summit of the mountain: the first being Walter Hungerbühler in 2008. However, Pucher free soloed the entire route, which is the first time anyone has climbed Cerro Torre in this style.
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Feb 27, 2013 - 01:33am PT
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I thought free solo meant no rope?
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enjoimx
Trad climber
Yosemite, ca
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Feb 27, 2013 - 01:34am PT
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Rope for descent.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Feb 27, 2013 - 02:03am PT
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Classic!
Great stuff!
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Feb 27, 2013 - 02:09am PT
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Hmmm...seems like the descent is just as crucial to an endeavour such as this to be exempt from the same high standard.
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andy@climbingmoab
Big Wall climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Feb 27, 2013 - 02:12am PT
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That seems pedantic. Somebody tell Honnold he didn't free solo anything until he downclimbed the same route sans cord.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Feb 27, 2013 - 02:14am PT
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Hmmm...seems like the descent is just as crucial to an endeavour such as this to be exempt from the same high standard.
Absolutley..
Let's string him up like Maestri!
His accomplishment is such a sham....
While we are at it can we please debate
when is it appropriate to place a bolt?
Is it a real ski descent if part of the descent is rappelled?
How many angels can dance on top of your head?
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Feb 27, 2013 - 02:21am PT
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Just saying...get down however you can ....cordless. Keep the spirit of free solo pure - man vs mountain unencumbered!
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Feb 27, 2013 - 02:23am PT
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There's always a way to imagine doing something better than what has been done.
Imagining it however does not diminish what was actually done.
I mean seriously.. why didn't he base jump off the mushroom?
Since when has downclimbing a freesolo been a requirement? Good idea to be able.. but.. cmon
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Feb 27, 2013 - 02:25am PT
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Granted!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Feb 27, 2013 - 03:19am PT
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He was up there by himself? .........amazing!
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 27, 2013 - 10:16am PT
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An absolutely incredible accomplishment. His self-portrait on the summit seems incredibly understated for what he'd just done.
And enough with the free-solo downclimb comments. That's just nuts. (Unless you're just trolling, in which case...enough with the free-solo downclimb trolling comments. That's just nuts.)
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Gregory Crouch
Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
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Feb 27, 2013 - 10:28am PT
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Boggles my mind. The two big rime pitches on that thing were like vertical meringue pie when I was there... and the last one has nearly a mile of exposure... no way I'd have even considered doing them without a rope.
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Johnny K.
climber
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Feb 27, 2013 - 10:44am PT
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There are a myriad of details about Pucher's climb worth recounting, such as the fact that it came about almost by accident, when his friend Markus Steiner fell ill at the base of what was meant to be an attempt to forge a new line up the West Face of Cerro Torre. The solo as a "fallback" therefore... and for his climb Pucher took with him just one rope, a single ice screw and three carabiners! And what's more, during the descent Pucher lent one of his axes to another alpinist who had just lost his.
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Feb 27, 2013 - 11:17am PT
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And what's more, during the descent Pucher lent one of his axes to another alpinist who had just lost his.
Holy CRAP!
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philo
Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
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Feb 27, 2013 - 11:17am PT
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OK, OK, but did he do a sit-start?
Truly an inspiring ascent/descent.
This is a shinning example of the best our climbing world produces.
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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Feb 27, 2013 - 11:21am PT
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The thing to do is just take a helicopter up there and base jump off, and skip the part about soloing overhanging clouds of mixed snow and air. I'll save the heliboogie trip for my 80th birthday.
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Feb 27, 2013 - 11:26am PT
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Methinks Darwin was right, this new breed is showin it's stuff! (take that creationists!)
Impressive!
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Feb 27, 2013 - 11:39am PT
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I wonder what The Chipper thinks about this.
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Snowmassguy
Trad climber
Calirado
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Feb 27, 2013 - 11:47am PT
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Just amazing! Hard to even imagine. I feel inadequate.
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Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
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Feb 27, 2013 - 11:56am PT
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Jeez,
He didn't even have leashes on his axes!
The focus required must be phenomenal.
Steve
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Feb 27, 2013 - 12:03pm PT
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In 1978-1979, Bill Denz of New Zealand attempted Cerro Torre 11 times, solo. He came within 80 meters of the summit but never bagged the full ascent. These attempts were of course on the Compressor Route and were using aid.
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jfs
Trad climber
Upper Leftish
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Feb 27, 2013 - 12:42pm PT
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Pucher's solo of Cerro Torre marks the second time someone has climbed solo to the summit of the mountain: the first being Walter Hungerbühler in 2008. However, Pucher free soloed the entire route, which is the first time anyone has climbed Cerro Torre in this style.
Rock and Ice needs to do their research. Pucher is the second solo via the Ragni. The fifth solo to the summit overall. The first free solo.
Bad ass.
Other solos to the summit:
Marco Pedrini via the Compressor in 1985
Athol Whimp via the Compressor in 1994
Dean Potter via the Compressor in 2002
Walter Hungerbühler via the Ragni in 2008
Markus Pucher free solo via the Ragni in 2013
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jfs
Trad climber
Upper Leftish
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Feb 27, 2013 - 01:28pm PT
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"Athol Whimp"? O'Really? and who might that have been?
riiiiight...
edit: serious question?
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John Mac
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
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Feb 27, 2013 - 02:32pm PT
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No one ever called Athol a "Whimp" to his face!
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Feb 27, 2013 - 03:31pm PT
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Yes, definitely thought Athol Whimp was a fake name. I was about to say he probably got kidded about his name a lot, but then again with muscles like he had...
A free beer if you know the true identity of Onan Goat.
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Gregory Crouch
Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
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Feb 27, 2013 - 05:22pm PT
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Athol Whimp was one of the most impressive human beings I've ever had the honor of knowing.
This past Saturday was the first anniversary of his passing.
I've been preparing an updated eRelease of the Climbing story I wrote about him and Andy Lindblade back in 2004. It's almost ready to go. Should drop in the next day or two, and cost $0.99 -- which is the minimum price on most of the eBookselling services. Andy kicked me down 19 of his best photos to illustrate it, too. I've long thought that was the best piece of adventure writing I've ever done. I've got two other articles ready to drop with it, one of which is also climbing related. I'll start a thread when they drop.
I got off one of my life's great quips when I met Athol in a Chalten restaurant in 1994: "Athol Whimp? And you just soloed Cerro Torre? Ever hear of a guy named Johnny Cash?"
But the Boy Named Sue aspect of his name doesn't make the same impression in En Zed, apparently...
After I'd explained the lyrical connection, Athol's riposte was something to the effect of "Edward Whymper, mate. First man up the Matterhorn. Never bothered him."
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jfs
Trad climber
Upper Leftish
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Feb 27, 2013 - 09:50pm PT
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Looking forward to that article. Haven't read it, but have definitely enjoyed your writing elsewhere.
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 28, 2013 - 12:39am PT
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"Athol Whimp? And you just soloed Cerro Torre? Ever hear of a guy named Johnny Cash?"
Classic!
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Feb 28, 2013 - 01:02am PT
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A free beer if you know the true identity of Onan Goat.
too easy.
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F
climber
away from the ground
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Oct 10, 2016 - 07:59pm PT
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Bump
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