Discussion Topic |
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Brian Biega
climber
Truckee, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 14, 2013 - 11:01pm PT
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"Widows Tears just got climbed! Hello, are you there? What are you doing dude? Wake Up!" Voice mail from Paul sets the hook on 1/3/13. Was it our time to finally get a chance to do this climb? Only time would tell. The following day, we were in Yosemite looking up at the route. 3:30 am, 1/5/13 we left the car hiking up prior to Sundays approaching storm. By 7 am we were making our way back down. The first pitch had pulled away from the wall some 4 inches, would not hold a pick and felt like it was ready to collapse. Crap! Had we missed our shot at this great route by 2 days?
We ended the weekend climbing in familiar stomping grounds, the Whiskey Routes. The Sunday storm moved through California and news from the Internet some three days later notes the 1st 300' of the route fell down. Sounds like we may have made the right call bailing before we even got started.
I dream of climbing, even in my sleep, and I could not get the idea of climbing the Widows Tears out of my mind. Oh well, I leave on Friday to climb ice on the East Coast in hopefully Vermont, New York & New Hampshire. How bad could it be. Yes, that bad as the cold weather is still lingering around California.
1/10/13 Another phone call from Paul confirms I am not the only one Jones'n for this route. "Brian, Gilly can't go, Chip can't go, Scotty too. You are going to have to cancel your flight." Warm temps in the East keeps my partner at ease.
Two days later, we noticed a party four pitches from the top as we came into the Valley around 4 pm. The Widows Tears is now getting lapped. After racking up, we put down a couple of beers at the Lodge eagerly awaiting the next days climb. Social Media for the Widows Tears has got every ice climber within 300 or so miles excited. I say to Paul, "See those guys over there? They are going up there tomorrow." "Those guys?" Paul says. Yes, them also, I reply. Could there really be that many people with the same objective?
1/13/13 3:15 am We pull into the Bridalveil Fall parking area to the sight of headlamps shining from within a Mini van. Paul almost hits my car sliding across the icy parking lot knowing we need to go, and go fast. The Mini van races off turning up 140 towards Wawona. We leave the cars wondering what was that all about. Did those guys go to park at the base? Are they getting dropped off? Yikes, did we miss our chance again? As we walk up the road at a brisk pace we start to question our timing, who may have been in the Mini van and what the route would be like with more than one party on it. Now walking parallel above 140 on a old snow covered dirt road following what look to be our foot prints from the way out a week prior. There are no other tracks in sight. What about the people that we saw yesterday, how did they hike in? As we near the trail head below the climb we see headlamps ahead coming our way. A few steps later we turn off of the road and make our way up the steep slope. We continued moving up the steep trail a mere 50 Meters about the other team. Paul yells a Good Morning Greeting out into the dark night. "Top of the Morning to you!" they reply. Within 5 minutes the glimmer of a headlamp only came from our own, only hoping there were no other parties up ahead.
When we arrived at the base, we found a beautiful 70 meter 8.1 mm rope which appeared to have been dropped which I coiled thinking we would bring it with us. Fat chance. Paul anchors in at the base of the route with that nice rope at his feet.
Paul nears the anchor after the 1st pitch.
Top of the 2nd pitch.
Paul takes the next two pitches. Pitch 3 below.
Warming the hands while following pitch 3.
Pitch 4.
Looking down from the 3rd belay.
Following pitch 4.
Moving into the 5th belay.
Looking up at the final pitches.
Sheltered belay before a the rope stretching Shower pitch 6.
This long pitch was filled with excitement. I opened up two geysers when removing my picks giving Paul a good shower.
Paul follows quickly trying to avoid the shower from above.
Paul moves quickly into his next lead, pitch 7.
Paul tells me to take us to the top and into the heat of the afternoon sun.
Savoring the final pitch.
Paul making the final moves to the top of pitch 8.
Great climb!
We mosied down the Pohono Trail stoked for the adventure.
The Pohono Trail ended at Tunnel View and we walked back to Bridalveil Fall parking area.
Cheers!
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
moving thru
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Jan 14, 2013 - 11:08pm PT
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We're all waiting.....
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Stewart Johnson
climber
lake forest
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Jan 14, 2013 - 11:27pm PT
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Brian 10 feet up about to back off on our first attempt on 1/05/13.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jan 14, 2013 - 11:46pm PT
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great tease!
can't wait for more!!
BRAVO!
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
moving thru
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Jan 14, 2013 - 11:51pm PT
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What ascent of WT would this be? The Third??? I know it's not often sended.
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mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
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Jan 15, 2013 - 12:05am PT
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good stuff guys
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john hansen
climber
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Jan 15, 2013 - 12:23am PT
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LL LL
I think this might be 7 or 8 or even higher. Some of the teams do not report.
It has been really cold the last week.
Trade route,,,,,:)
Yeah right. Just dont fall off with it.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
moving thru
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Jan 15, 2013 - 12:25am PT
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OK, ready for the next episode.....:D
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jan 15, 2013 - 12:26am PT
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For those of us not among the cognoscendi, where exactly is this ice climb located?
Thanks, eh?
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Jan 15, 2013 - 12:30am PT
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How long is widows tears is it the longest ice climb in the valley?
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Jan 15, 2013 - 12:36am PT
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The rock up there looks pretty savory too.
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john hansen
climber
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Jan 15, 2013 - 12:41am PT
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PTPP, If I am not mistaken , it is above hwy 41 between bridal vail and the look out. I think it is above the road.
I asked the same question a few years back.
Stewart Johnson, where was that shot taken from? The Reeds pullout?
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John M
climber
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Jan 15, 2013 - 12:45am PT
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John, Thats where it is. You can't see it from the lookout just outside the tunnel.. You can see it from the bridge.
You can see silver strand from the lookout.
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john hansen
climber
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Jan 15, 2013 - 12:53am PT
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It is really not that amazing that a 1000 foot high cliff can go pretty much un- noticed in Yosemite
. An obscure wall in the vally of obscure walls,,
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jan 15, 2013 - 01:08am PT
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I hate you guys! In a good way. Super jealous. Congratulations!
The first pitch had pulled away from the wall some 4 inches, would not hold a pick and felt like it was ready to collapse.
It did fall off! On Thursday! My partner and I were attempting it on Friday and first pitch was screwed. Super thin with water flowing under thin ice. We had to bail about 60 or so feet up. Major first world problem!
What a location though. Hope I have another chance.
it had water flowing under thin layer everywhere. Those screws were useless.
It looked so great above. I am super sad we did not have more days to wait for it to form over the next few cold days.
Some day...
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john hansen
climber
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Jan 15, 2013 - 01:21am PT
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You know,, now that I think about it these are the cliff's on the left , you see while you are driving by the river between the intersection with 120 and Ponoho bridge.
It makes sense that 41 goes out above those falls.
I would say east of the Rostrum.
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john hansen
climber
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Jan 15, 2013 - 01:27am PT
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OK ,, got it above the road, thanks
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John M
climber
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Jan 15, 2013 - 01:30am PT
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Watch the video. You will see silver strand falls. Then check out the pictures above the video. When at the lookout outside the tunnel on 41.. silver strand falls is first, then widows tears is hidden by on outcrop of rock, which is why you can't see it from the lookout, then bridal veil falls.
http://www.world-of-waterfalls.com/yosemite-silver-strand-falls.html
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Jan 15, 2013 - 09:09am PT
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Nice ascent, beautiful pics.
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Jan 15, 2013 - 09:18am PT
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Nice work guys! Perseverance paid off. Congrats on a stellar ascent.
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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Jan 15, 2013 - 09:24am PT
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It's going to take a pretty neat trick for this to not end up the ST 2013 TR of the year! Great job!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jan 15, 2013 - 09:25am PT
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Awesomeness! Thnx!
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Jan 15, 2013 - 09:32am PT
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Yowzaa! TFPU
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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Jan 15, 2013 - 09:33am PT
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Right on, Brian, my Bro.....Looks like ya'll are getting after it.
Woot! Nicely done.
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Prod
Trad climber
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Jan 15, 2013 - 10:01am PT
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Awesome.
Prod.
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Maysho
climber
Soda Springs, CA
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Jan 15, 2013 - 10:03am PT
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Great Job Brian and Paul!! Big Congrats. You guys smoked it so fast! When we did it in 2003, spent 24 hours car to car...no basking in afternoon sun thats for sure...Way impressive.
Peter
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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Jan 15, 2013 - 10:13am PT
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Way to go guys !
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 15, 2013 - 11:15am PT
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Uber Phat conditions!
Thanks for the share!
Ice in the shade, boat drinks in the sun. I love it!
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jan 15, 2013 - 11:15am PT
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Wow! Wow! Wow!
Fabulous ascent and report!
Thanks for the beta on where this is located, guys. I still do knott have it entirely clear in my mind's eye but will have a look this spring.
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10b4me
Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
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Jan 15, 2013 - 11:28am PT
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Great job
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mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
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Jan 15, 2013 - 11:36am PT
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awesome! those great pics really do bring back the memories of that route. good job guys!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jan 15, 2013 - 12:00pm PT
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Did you guys need any rock pro at all? Great report.
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
California
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Jan 15, 2013 - 12:21pm PT
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Oh man that looked so awesome.
Congrats to the two of you!
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jan 15, 2013 - 12:28pm PT
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Hey Berg it's just like that one we did... mmm.. ok not so much .
Freaking stellar climb and huge thanks for Posting.
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roy
Social climber
NZ -> SB,CA -> Zurich
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Jan 15, 2013 - 12:41pm PT
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A fantastic climb. It really looked in great condition - hard to imagine that parts of it fell off the week before.
Cheers, Roy
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ClimbingOn
Trad climber
NY
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Jan 15, 2013 - 01:02pm PT
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Super sick. Widow's Tears is now at the very top of my Valley to-do list. Maybe next year??? We'll see!
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Jan 15, 2013 - 01:06pm PT
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killer.
good pix
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Stewart Johnson
climber
lake forest
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Jan 15, 2013 - 01:13pm PT
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Thanks everyone , i couldn't stop thinking about you guys on the first ascent so many
years ago .True hardmen breaking into the unknown .
As far as gear we brought three cams and a few nuts . 14 screws which we needed
for we dropped a few and a bunch of runners and draws
We managed the route in 8 pitches and give it a WI 4 plus Canadian.
One 70m cord
We spent About 8 hours on the route with a lovely pipe nap in the sun on top.
Cheers Paul Teare
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Jan 15, 2013 - 01:28pm PT
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Truly a bitchen TR. GREAT photos, really gives the feeling of what the route is all about.
The only thing is
It makes the FA all the more impressive when you look at the gear those clowns were using. C'on now! "Let's go climbing" never really holds as much meaning as when you're about to FA a Grade VI waterfall with no prior knowledge of ice. And with only two "axes..."
Still, this is a proud and envious ascent!!
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chappy
Social climber
ventura
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Jan 15, 2013 - 02:21pm PT
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Totally awesome guys. I must admit I salivate even now looking at the photos. It is such beautiful captivating route. It reminds me of why Kev and I just had to do it BITD and why I had to go back for more with Ed.
Good job!
Chappy
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WallMan
Trad climber
Denver, CO
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Jan 15, 2013 - 02:47pm PT
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Hey Brian - congrats on a great looking line! Wally
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Jan 15, 2013 - 03:03pm PT
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Fabulous! Thanks for the TR and pictures (and for the comparison shots from '07).
John
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Jan 15, 2013 - 03:11pm PT
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Excellent job fellas! That looks sweet. Gotta get back there soon.
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Johnny K.
climber
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Jan 15, 2013 - 03:19pm PT
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Awesome stuff!
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aran
Trad climber
berkeley, ca
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Jan 15, 2013 - 03:23pm PT
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Incredible send- way to be there and make the most of conditions! Congratulations.
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lucho
Trad climber
California
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Jan 15, 2013 - 03:47pm PT
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So sick you guys! Awesome and proud send! Congrats!
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slidingmike
climber
CA
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Jan 15, 2013 - 05:41pm PT
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Awesome well done! Brian, it sounds like it was worth delaying your trip east...
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Jan 15, 2013 - 05:44pm PT
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Fantastic Pics/tr. Please consider posting or linking to from the Trip Reports section so it's easier to find in the future.
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RP3
Big Wall climber
El Portal/Chapel Hill
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Jan 15, 2013 - 06:31pm PT
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HECK YEAH! Absolutely fantastic. Threads like this are why I am on the website. Excellent send!
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Jan 15, 2013 - 06:52pm PT
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Whoo hoo!!!!
Great stuff, guys!
There's only a few (ha ha), envious people that read your
report!!!!
Thanks for sharing!
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S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
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Jan 15, 2013 - 06:54pm PT
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Extremely clever way to do a TR,and awesome send!!!!
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Michelle
Trad climber
Toshi's Station, picking up power converters.
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Jan 15, 2013 - 08:09pm PT
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talk about demonstration of how to HTFU! Thanks for doing this so I don't ever have to.
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micronut
Trad climber
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Jan 15, 2013 - 08:18pm PT
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SUper proud send guys. Makin that thing look all Eigery for sure.
Supertopo at its finest. Yall probably poached it from some euro frenchies wearin matching full body suits and headbands. Way to rep-re-zent.
This photo is sooo full of stoke.
Full Value fer sher!
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simply theresa
climber
Yosemite
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Jan 15, 2013 - 09:19pm PT
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Wow. An ascent by Greg and Jason on the 8th, Paul and Brian on the 13th and another party of 3 were on the route today (1/15)? Is that ascents 10, 11 and 12 then?
Congratulations to all!
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Stewart Johnson
climber
lake forest
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Jan 15, 2013 - 09:44pm PT
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we saw a party on the Widows Tears on the 12th also that makes 4 ascents
this year.
no woman has climbed any of these yosemite ice routes
which is unnaceptable and
why im still single!
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 15, 2013 - 10:18pm PT
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Those two guys on the 12th were Kim Dao and Rick Harlin. I talked to the Daoist today he is one of my best buds and the guy I climbed my two el cap routes with way back when. It was so cool to share his story with him in a way that really touched me. My hat's off to all that got it done this time around. What an amazing climb.
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Byran
climber
Yosemite Valley, CA
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Jan 15, 2013 - 10:23pm PT
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That's amazingly cool and a route that I hope to do at some point in my life. That whole area up there is pretty unique and remote feeling. Most people don't notice how big the walls are because they're set back away from the road a good ways. It's basically the shady-side version of the Ribbon Falls Amphitheater. And the rock climbs up there feature some of the mildest temperatures you will find in the Valley during the height of summer.
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Brian Biega
climber
Truckee, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2013 - 10:27pm PT
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Thanks Everyone!
Thanks for having the vision and making the write ups on the FA. It was great to read so much history before going up there and thinking about you guys sleeping on those ledges back then. Awesome!
For posting daily updates of pictures and information on the route.
Making for a pretty easy clip after seeing a buried ice screw on the 1st pitch in the dark.
And to those for breaking trail.
Cheers, Brian
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scooter
climber
fist clamp
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Jan 15, 2013 - 10:29pm PT
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Sliverstrand had a party top out before noon today.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 16, 2013 - 12:20am PT
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When we arrived at the base, we found a beautiful 70 meter 8.1 mm rope which appeared to have been dropped which I coiled thinking we would bring it with us. Fat chance. Paul anchors in at the base of the route with that nice rope at his feet.
Hey Brian, I think that rope belongs to Kim and Rick from their ascent on the 12th. Kim told me about losing a rope near the top under some sketch conditions. If you care about getting it home, send me a PM, or is it still up there?
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Flanders!
Trad climber
June Lake, CA
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Jan 16, 2013 - 01:22am PT
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Great to see your photos Brian ! Good job !
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
moving thru
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Jan 16, 2013 - 01:49am PT
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Yeah, Flanders, think you've met the widow and her tears before....but I could be wrong.
Cheers to yo ascenders, great pics. Cheers. L.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jan 16, 2013 - 03:04am PT
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Great stuff, Brian and Paul! Thanks for sharing.
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Pollock Pines, California
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Jan 16, 2013 - 07:40am PT
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atta boys,
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Dirka
Trad climber
SF
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Jan 16, 2013 - 10:51am PT
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badass!
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 16, 2013 - 02:15pm PT
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Let's keep this one on the first page Bump.
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Jan 16, 2013 - 04:20pm PT
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FUKIN'A BRO
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moacman
Trad climber
Montuckyian Via Canada Eh!
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Jan 16, 2013 - 05:18pm PT
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Nice job lads..............
Stevo
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Brian Biega
climber
Truckee, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 16, 2013 - 07:05pm PT
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Wayno-
We left the rope at the base. Maybe the rangers picked it up? I thought about hiking back up but had to catch my flight.
Chapel Pond, NY
Cheers, Brian
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IV
climber
tahoe
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Jan 16, 2013 - 10:49pm PT
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Can you say Rope Guns? ... not many screws in those photos guys.
Sheesh whata send!
OOOOOY!
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IV
climber
tahoe
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Jan 16, 2013 - 10:52pm PT
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rough it up, stuff it up, balls and all; Tre Bon
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Jan 16, 2013 - 10:56pm PT
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We left the rope at the base. Maybe the rangers picked it up? FYI - The forum protocol is to scream "STOLEN ! ..."
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Stewart Johnson
climber
lake forest
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Jan 16, 2013 - 11:02pm PT
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sorry Biotch, all we did was to find it, coil it, and leave it. there was no theft.its still up there!
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Eric Beck
Sport climber
Bishop, California
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Jan 16, 2013 - 11:09pm PT
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Hi Kevin
Is it true that the entire route fell off a few days after you and Mark did it?
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 17, 2013 - 12:35am PT
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Thanks Brian, I told him it was still up there. If anyone on this forum finds it they can PM me and we can get it home. Awesome send, Brian.
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Chinchen
climber
Way out there....
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Jan 17, 2013 - 12:52am PT
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Kevin Daniels climbed it yesterday.
EDIT: Great job to all.
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Gal
Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
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Jan 17, 2013 - 01:22am PT
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Fantastic, and wow! Looks intimidating to me, great job.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Jan 17, 2013 - 01:36am PT
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Kevin Daniels climbed it yesterday.
The FFA of an ice route is quite an accomplishment.
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Chinchen
climber
Way out there....
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Jan 17, 2013 - 02:22am PT
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Not sure I understand.Sorry. Just reporting...
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gilly
climber
Mohawk Valley,Ca
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Jan 17, 2013 - 01:25pm PT
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How often can one have a FULL BLOWN Canadian adventure in the lower 48! And in Cali. no less.Sometimes if you nail it just right,one doesn't have to travel north. Mt.Chephren,Temple,Howse???
Mates, again..... fine work.
G
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Flanders!
Trad climber
June Lake, CA
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Jan 19, 2013 - 12:00am PT
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How many assents of the Tears has been made over the years ?
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Stewart Johnson
climber
lake forest
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Jan 19, 2013 - 09:33am PT
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afternoons are getting warm, is it still there?
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Jan 19, 2013 - 11:23am PT
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Was all there as of 1-19 at 4pm as was Silver Strand
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Jan 19, 2013 - 12:27pm PT
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I'm still trying to figure out who all has done it this year?
Jason and Greg - 1/3
Kim and Rick - 1/12
Brian and Paul - 1/13
Kevin, Trevor and Kurt - 1/15
The Rangers/Ed ???
Rock and Ice blerb on Mountain Project fails to mention all the parties before Kevin, Trevor and Rick, especially Greg and Jasons
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 19, 2013 - 12:50pm PT
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The rangers had to divert over to the Silver Strand instead because Kevin, Trevor and Kurt were ahead of them at the base that day ......
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Pollock Pines, California
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Jan 19, 2013 - 12:54pm PT
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dude.
i want.
the life.
of brian.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 19, 2013 - 01:13pm PT
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Hey Werner, do you know anything about that rope that Kim and Rick dropped? They already have sacrificed it to the gods but I thought it would be cool if they could get it back.
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 19, 2013 - 01:20pm PT
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Wayno, I know nothing about it, sorry .....
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Flanders!
Trad climber
June Lake, CA
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Jan 19, 2013 - 05:18pm PT
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Werner, is that how you get now ropes ?
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Stewart Johnson
climber
lake forest
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Jan 20, 2013 - 12:06pm PT
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!I believe the rope is still up there coiled at the first belay.
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Feb 12, 2013 - 11:40pm PT
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has anyone climbed that Seton Lake flow?
not to be a doubter, but it sure doesn't look like 1,000+ feet long
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melski
Trad climber
bytheriver
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Feb 14, 2013 - 07:01pm PT
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I really,--really,,hate california,,,blue sky ice,,bikinis,all in one state,,
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Jul 14, 2013 - 02:33pm PT
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Bruce Kay - has anyone climbed that Seton flow and if so, when?
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Jul 15, 2013 - 07:13pm PT
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wow! great info in those links -- thanks
Bruce was also featured on the cover of the 2009 CAJ, climbing a new ice route called Piss and Vinegar at Seton Lake. WI5,9 pitches,420m or 1,400 feet. Being in Canada, and located on a lake, access was of course by canoe.
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Brian Biega
climber
Truckee, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 30, 2013 - 09:39pm PT
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Hi Dan,
Happy Holidays! Any updates on the conditions there in the valley?
Cheers, Brian
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Stewart Johnson
climber
lake forest
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Jan 14, 2014 - 08:34am PT
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A bump for last years best ice route
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jan 14, 2014 - 11:25am PT
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Do you want to make me jealous again? Hope this thing comes in in the next few years!!! Would love to climb it, looks super good.
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dirt claud
Social climber
san diego,ca
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Jan 14, 2014 - 11:59am PT
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F!$#@n bad ass fellas? Thanks for the TR and pics looks really awesome!! nice bump
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Guck
Trad climber
Santa Barbara, CA
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Jan 14, 2014 - 12:53pm PT
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Two of the other parties that went up the WT in January 2013 are Greg Loniewski and Jason Torlano (2013-01-03), followed by Florian Dörlfer and X (I forgot his partner's name) about a week later. Greg and Jason made the trail back to Hwy 41.
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Mustang
climber
From the wild, not the ranch
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Jan 14, 2014 - 09:55pm PT
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Couple of Larry's for sure.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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BBST. Purdy pictures.
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| Messages 1 - 108 of total 108 in this topic |
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