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| Messages 1 - 38 of total 38 in this topic |
Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 2, 2006 - 02:50pm PT
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Dave Turner is about 3/4 up a new line on Porcelain Wall with another guy named Matt. Chatted with them after Dave's 10 hour lead through the big roof...sounds wild!
Ammons fixing on something burly...not sure if I should spray about it here yet.
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Cheryl
Big Wall climber
Chicago, Illinois
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Don't post yet!
I'm flying out tonight to join Ammon on the route.
There will be plenty of details after the weekend.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 2, 2006 - 03:17pm PT
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werd, good luck!
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Kristoffer
Big Wall climber
Blue Jay, California
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The Monkeys Always Send!
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Fluoride
Trad climber
on a rock or mountain out west
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Lambone don't spray what Am's doing. I know what he's up to as well, but let the masses find out about it from him once he sends it. It's a proud route for his 50th trip up the big stone.
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up2top
Big Wall climber
Phoenix, AZ
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It's that time of year! I miss the magic -- give 'em a monkey call for me.
Ammon -- SEND THAT SH#T!!
Matt, what are you up to?
Ed
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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how did routes ever get to be proud?
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Fluoride
Trad climber
on a rock or mountain out west
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Dirt, if they've got some nasty A4/A5 pitches, they're proud.
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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Whatever it may be, have fun up there, Ammon and Cheryl!!!
“Dave Turner is about 3/4 up a new line on Porcelain Wall…”
Yes, I’ve heard rumor of this ascent. Are Nick and Aaron also up on the P-Wall? Seems strange that someone could find another new line to do on such a blank wall. I am interested to hear what’s new… and to see a topo…
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Fluoride
Trad climber
on a rock or mountain out west
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"Are Nick and Aaron also up on the P-Wall?"
Last I heard they were soloing routes next to each other. One of them was one of yours/EK's. I can't remember the name of the other one. I wanna say it was When Hell was in Session but I'm not 100% sure about that. But they're probably done with them by now.
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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Thanks, B.
More details, anyone?
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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F-man, if it won't go free, it's not for me.
HEHE I rhymed!
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Kristoffer
Big Wall climber
Blue Jay, California
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Nick and Aaron both got off of the porcelain wall like a week or something ago, last time I talked to Aaron he was heading off to send some stuff on the dome with his cousin i believe...
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pyro
Trad climber
Ventura
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like to read about that or even see video of the real hell session.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Happy Birthday to Ammon
He's getting ARRrrrfuly Old.
Peace
Karl
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Seems strange that someone could find another new line to do on such a blank wall.
It's only blank, if you don't have the right eyes. A good eye and some good skills = new line.
This has been the history of walls in Yosemite, and elsewhere.
Those with the vision go right up. And the rest of us stare from the ground, far below, in wonderment: "How in the . . . . . ?"
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 3, 2006 - 12:49pm PT
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Minerals,
I belive your route was soloed by Arron a few weeks ago. Nick did the first second of the Klaus/Takeda route, also solo....
Dave said he is doing his best to follow natural features and their goal is to keep the hole count less then 100. Klaus's route had over 150 I believe. He wanted to be off by Sunday...
"Matt, what are you up to?"
we spent 9 days on South Seas->PO. It was super fun chill wallin, lots of beer, hot coffee in the AM, never left the bivi before 11, rest day on the Island...awesome route!
Brook on belay detail, "Rubber Band Man" pitch. Which we were bummed to find out didn't require the rubber band technique at all... :(
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Bulging sack-o-rivets usually does the trick!
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Kristoffer
Big Wall climber
Blue Jay, California
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Lambone, nice photo, representing in a proud manner mate! the week prior I flew the Jolly Roger up that entire route as well. arrrrgh!
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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So, rivets cure blindness…??? That would make sense, considering that vision cures rivets…
Harding must have been blind, because he drilled up the most blank face that I have seen on that wall…
How much time have you spent scoping the Porcelain, Tom?
Thanks for the reply, Lambone! Did Aaron have fun? What did Nick think?
Good work on the SS!
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Blakeb
Big Wall climber
Ashland, Oregon
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WOW! Webmonkey you sound like a real dick. You should maybe start a thread about what you would like to discuss rather than rain on others parade. How is my post doing on the coolness scale for ya?
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Texplorer
Trad climber
Las Vegas
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Nice photo bone, did that route last year. Did you guys find one of the pitches in the illusion chain to be the toughest?
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Holdplease2
Big Wall climber
Yosemite area
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Congratulations on your climb, Lambone! Maybe I'll see you in the valley before you head out. I'll be, uh, pretending to free climb. ;)
-Kate.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 4, 2006 - 10:29pm PT
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Minerals,
I didn't speak with Aaron but overheard Nicks conversation with C-Mac. The highlihts being a full pitch of beaks and tipped out blades...of which he didn't have enough. Also he mentioned that Klaus didn't leave hangers on the belay bolts so he brought a few of his own but forgot a wrench to tighten the nuts down...so his solo belay anchors were kinda scary and ghetto rigged with duct tape. Nick's wall stories are awesome!
Tex, yeah we thought the Aluetion chain was a crux for sure, more scary then technical though...Brook clpped the bolt below the flake placed an arrow then did two bomber hook moves to get past the flake staright up that seam. My pitch before the Bearing Straights was pretty cruxy for me...right off the belay the thinnest nailing on the route for me anyway. We took whippers on the A4 pitch of SS and the first pitch of PO being gumbies in that expando sh#t. Luckily they were steep and clean whips! pretty fun stuff.
Kate, I am already home, just another in and out wall mission. sorry I missed you, have fun!
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BrentA
Gym climber
estes park
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The low bering str8 pitch was thin when we did it too.
Missed your SS whiipper, I was watching too
Cheers
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Holdplease2
Big Wall climber
Yosemite area
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Right on, Lambone, next time...!
-Kate.
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T Moses
Trad climber
Paso Robles
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I wondered who was over on Porcelain Wall. We could see a light from where we were on Dinner Ledge. It was cool to blink at him and get a response. It looked like he topped out yesterday (Saturday), I think.
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up2top
Big Wall climber
Phoenix, AZ
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Nice job Boney! Looks like a lot of fun. More photos when you get the chance.
Kate -- what about you? Any plans?
Ed
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 7, 2006 - 08:29pm PT
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Hey Ammon and Cheryl, how did it go?
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Fluoride
Trad climber
California somewhere
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Lambone, I don't think they're down yet. I was watching them Sunday fixing up to probably around P3 or so.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 7, 2006 - 08:36pm PT
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that's cool...they just made some mention of doing it in a push so I was curious about that.
cheers
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Elcapinyoazz
Mountain climber
Anchorage, Alaska
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Oh no! SHHHHH! Don't tell anyone! They might get scooped.Ya'll sound like a bunch of 4th graders.
Bro brah one above already leaked it is 2nd ascent. AFter all recent hullabaloo and beer offerings concerning "Miles of Holes" aka "Wings of Steel", and it's status as one of the very few w/o a repeat, I'd say it's the obvious choice. But i could be wrong, after all it's been a long time since I was in 4th grade. Duck. Duck. Goose beyotch.
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Cheryl
Big Wall climber
Chicago, Illinois
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Not a push ascent - Ammon and I were just up there having some fun.
I'll let him tell you about it.
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Nice. Good send, Ammon and Cheryl.
EDIT: my intel was bad
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Cheryl
Big Wall climber
Chicago, Illinois
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We weren't going for the send, we were up there playing around on the opening pitches, just checking things out.
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ricardo
Gym climber
San Francisco, CA
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matt ..
good job on SS ..
.. i also found the illusion chain to be a hard pitch -- did it the same way .. clipped the bolt, slammed a pin, and hooked through it quickly .. as it groaned, and gonged! .. fun!
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Anyone have any info on the Sea of Dreams party?
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Ammon
Big Wall climber
El Cap
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Yep, I was up on WOS. I'm working on the Huber Bro. film and will probably have to wait a few weeks before launching. Mean while I will be fixing more ropes.
It looks like someone else here in the Valley has their eye on the route as well (Yep, 4th grade again, I promised not to say who). Whatever. I was mainly curious about the route, than the idea of getting a second ascent.
So far, the route is really good. I took a 50 footer on the second pitch (the left start). I nearly bailed thinking the flakes were no longer there anymore. I went back up with Cheryl and gave the second pitch another try. This time with nothing but a draw and two talon hooks. It took a while to figure out which direction to hook up the blank face, but I finally figured it out.
The hooking was on dime sized edges and was not enhanced. I'll write more in a few weeks, after the drama unfolds.
[edit] Eric Ericson is on Sea of Dreams, can't remember the other guy (not Tommy T).
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| Messages 1 - 38 of total 38 in this topic |
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