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Industry Buzz
Trad climber
OR tradeshow
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 28, 2010 - 06:49pm PT
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Word on the street is that Mad Rock is adding to their hardware line... by buying CCH and producing Aliens. I already sold mine for $80 a pop, but if you act before the deal is finalized you might be able to reel in $100+.
The other big surprise is that they are adding to their market share by picking up Fish Products. Unclear at this time whether they are doing the whole line or just certain products, but for sure it's ledges and bags.
Look for an announcement at the trade show, and new Aliens in '11.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 28, 2010 - 06:53pm PT
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An interesting first post. Or is that first troll?
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msiddens
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Jul 28, 2010 - 06:55pm PT
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maybe both!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 28, 2010 - 08:05pm PT
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I think they just want the adult restraint devices...
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That Darn French Guy
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Jul 28, 2010 - 09:29pm PT
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Why would MadRock buy CCH?
They don't need the tainted name. They can just copycat the aliens : patents have lapsed. I now know 2 separate peeps who've looked into buying CCH that decided not to.
Well...
If madrock wants to build stuff, I still want a simple autolocking device I can rap with. Tell them to build the TRE SIRIUS belay device. Since PMI/TRE stopped selling them, Edelweiss is making a lame-o 1-hole knock-off for sport climbers.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jul 28, 2010 - 11:00pm PT
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If madrock wants to build stuff, I still want a simple autolocking device I can rap with. Tell them to build the TRE SIRIUS belay device.
What that French guy said!
Rgold and I would both buy one.
But the real question is: Why hasn't Petzl ever made a Gri-Gri that would work on two ropes?
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bluering
Trad climber
CA
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Jul 28, 2010 - 11:29pm PT
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Is the OP assuming that Mad Rock will make a better product? It'll prolly be a Chinese Alien! Gaahhhhh!!!!!!
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Jul 28, 2010 - 11:37pm PT
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Don't do it, Russ!!!!!
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adatesman
Trad climber
philadelphia, pa
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Jul 28, 2010 - 11:47pm PT
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Sh#t Ghost, why only one? Hen's teeth are almost easier to find at this point! I've gotten to the point that I've considered machining my own out of barstock just in case either one of the ones I have ever wear out.
@Frenchie- I thought it was Edelrid that had the Zap-O-Mat single rope version of the Sirius? Damn, I miss Gary Storrick's site... :-(
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
Transporter Room 2
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Jul 29, 2010 - 12:22am PT
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cold dead fingers, man!
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Chinchen
climber
Way out there....
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Jul 29, 2010 - 12:56am PT
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Gheyest thread ever.
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Moof
Big Wall climber
A cube at my soul sucking job in Oregon
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Jul 29, 2010 - 01:44am PT
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I knew my investment in "Buy Russ a beer" was going to pay off!
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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Jul 29, 2010 - 01:48am PT
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I sold my friends...
some weed,
then they started seeing aliens,
I also sold my hole for rock and roll,
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Jul 29, 2010 - 12:19pm PT
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whoa! There's a shocker.
Medusa, I'll take any greens and yellows you got. Not paying $100 though. PM me.
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Capt.
climber
some eastside hovel
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Jul 29, 2010 - 12:34pm PT
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I think they just want the adult restraint devices... Funny someone remembers those.Spent a part of a summer sewing those for Russ in a neighbors garage.Man those were good times :)I felt a little dirty tho :o
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jul 29, 2010 - 01:11pm PT
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need a green alien/miracle
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
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Jul 29, 2010 - 03:43pm PT
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I have a full set of mint-condition hybrids (bought 'em - never used 'em).
Any guesses as to how much they're worth?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 29, 2010 - 03:45pm PT
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What you can get for them, minus the cost of replacement with real cams.
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phile
Trad climber
SF, CA
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Jul 29, 2010 - 03:53pm PT
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Hardman, if you pass them down through your family for several generations and climbing becomes a huge mainstream sport over the next 100 years, they will be priceless. I'd store them somewhere safe and be very specific about the language in your will.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Jul 29, 2010 - 04:57pm PT
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Does anyone have a link to any Alien Cams available on the web?
I looked but all I could find were these:
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Cpt0bvi0u5
Trad climber
Merced CA
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Jul 29, 2010 - 05:15pm PT
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Why sell em? Just keep them and use them like they were meant to be. Hell we don't buy climbing gear with the intent of making a pretty penny. Stop worrying about slinging Aliens and go climb with em!
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happiegrrrl
Trad climber
New York, NY
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Jul 29, 2010 - 05:17pm PT
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^funny
I'd like a couple offset aliens, but not willing/able to pay the absurd amounts people seem to be ponying up. HK, you should post them on EBay, and make sure someone links the page to an "Aliens on Ebay" thread. You'll get $125 each, easily.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jul 29, 2010 - 05:23pm PT
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Sh#t Ghost, why only one? Hen's teeth are almost easier to find at this point! I've gotten to the point that I've considered machining my own out of barstock just in case either one of the ones I have ever wear out.
Well if MadRock doesn't take the bait, maybe we should dangle the idea in front of Mal?
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Slakkey
Big Wall climber
From Back to Big Wall Baby
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Jul 29, 2010 - 05:30pm PT
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Got to agree with Capt. Obvious. Why not just use them and forget how much one might make off them etc. after all they are just cams.
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kennoyce
Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Jul 29, 2010 - 06:37pm PT
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Well if MadRock doesn't take the bait, maybe we should dangle the idea in front of Mal?
Allready been done, Mal and Trango don't want them.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jul 29, 2010 - 06:42pm PT
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Allready been done, Mal and Trango don't want them.
Not the aliens/CCH, but a belay device based on the TRE Sirius.
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
Transporter Room 2
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Jul 29, 2010 - 07:51pm PT
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Greed is a funny thing.
I'd rather have the cams. They're not for sale.
Well, maybe if you can match LockerMan's price.
Lol!
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Jay Wood
Trad climber
Fairfax, CA
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Jul 29, 2010 - 09:40pm PT
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I have a set to sell.
blue- red (4 cams)
These are older- the tubing on the loops is thicker and more transparent than the current version.
They are used, with good action. Bought them used a year ago or so. Will throw in spirit biners.
$280.00
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
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Jul 29, 2010 - 09:50pm PT
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I bought my set of hybrids purely as a speculator - with a keen eye on the bottom line...
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Cpt0bvi0u5
Trad climber
Merced CA
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Jul 29, 2010 - 10:47pm PT
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^
that was only with a certain run of them. And I sure as hell hope people aren't selling other climbers gear they know is sketch...
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
Transporter Room 2
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Jul 30, 2010 - 02:13am PT
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Word.
That would be Sketch. Yowza.
Wouldn't do that.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 30, 2010 - 02:16am PT
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Probably that capitalist pig Republican toproper KB-seller FatTrad has a corner on the Alien market. Secretly stockpiling them, manipulating the market with false rumours, driving up the price...
Remember, he got his start in climbing retail.
Although his day job as an undercover operative for the Democratic party seems to keep him fairly busy.
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adatesman
Trad climber
philadelphia, pa
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Jul 30, 2010 - 10:25am PT
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Allready been done, Mal and Trango don't want them.
Not the aliens/CCH, but a belay device based on the TRE Sirius.
I suspect that won't fly on account of Edelrid holding the patent on the design.
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adatesman
Trad climber
philadelphia, pa
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Jul 30, 2010 - 10:39am PT
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Got to agree with Capt. Obvious. Why not just use them and forget how much one might make off them etc. after all they are just cams.
Hmm, I dunno... Maybe because they have a reputation for falling apart?
^
that was only with a certain run of them. And I sure as hell hope people aren't selling other climbers gear they know is sketch...
I hate rehashing this as I'm very much enjoying not talking about it anymore, but the problems were not limited to a certain run or even just cams within the expanded recall dates. A couple years ago I pulled several dozen of them of various vintages (including a dozen brand new ones) to failure and then cross sectioned the heads to inspect the quality of the braze, and the results weren't pretty. Even worse there was no way to tell if the braze was any good by examination of the head/stem junction. Some of the ones that looked great there had horrible contamination and porosity in the joint, while ones that looked horribly underfilled ended up being clean and full.
Trust them if you want, and YMMV.
EDIT- Oh, and the report I sent to the UIAA (at their request) is available here: Clicky! It's a 6.5MB PDF, so you may want to download it before opening.
Dammit! I've gotten sucked into this again. Sigh.
Anyway, here's a pic of 4 non-recall Aliens that isn't included in the report. The two on the left are Blue or Black (don't remember which) and both had the top of the head come off below rating. A bit of porosity in the one on the right, but not too bad. The other two are larger sizes, with the one on the far right being a Red. Clearly there's porosity and contamination issues with both, and the Red had the cable pull out at ~4kN.
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Mike Layton
Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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mammut unvieled an autolocking device that can rap with two ropes! hooray for that at least! gotta wait on it though...save your grigri2 money for that instead
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Burt
Big Wall climber
Las Vegas, Nv
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you can use the gri gri to rap a double rope, why buy another device?
Most of the complaints of the alien comes from guys who spend very little time wall climbing it seems. They are indispensable on a wall. I just bought 2 sets of master cams and 2 sets of master cams hybrids, good cams but not aliens. Some of the lobes are so narrow... scary in the soft rock. CCH had problems, but made a far superior product. Whoever gets them, I hope they don't change much.
Kurt "Burt" Arend
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Pie
Trad climber
So-Cal
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did madrock announce anything? OR show is over
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Looks like Aliens are going to go back up in price. From Rockclimbing.com long time gear maven "vegastradguy" who was at the OR show.
Fun highlights
1) double rope smart alpine from mammut
2) mad rock did not buy cch or FISH
3) grigri 2 will replace the original grigri
4) wild country have replaced tech friends with helium friends (available in the spring) and look for the bigger friends (5,6) in 2012ish...
5) edelrid has some sweet new arcteryx style harnesses that retail well below $100
6) cilogear is revamping the wally to make it easier to produce and look a little more like a cilogear pack.
7) Evolv is revamping the demorto and releasing a new sharma shoe.
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