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Mom
Social climber
So Cal
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 30, 2005 - 01:57pm PT
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Okay, my kids are doing one last climb before heading to places east and weather sets in....
"...it's an easy climb, Mom. We're going to take our time, enjoy ourselves. Lurking Fear is just too easy."
So they are up there; I'm watching the weather forecast for the next 4-6 days and then it hits me.. 'LURKING FEAR'!!!
Please -- someone tell me how this 'just too easy' route got its name????
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WBraun
climber
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Oct 30, 2005 - 02:03pm PT
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I saw Phil and Janet last night in the store, Philip was talking about going up there, the weather is perfect Mom, don't worry so much.
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Mom
Social climber
So Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 30, 2005 - 02:20pm PT
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Werner,
I really don't worry about them.... they are both technically savvy and together make a good climbing pair... moms are supposed to worry; afterall, that's why nothing bad happens 'cause us moms keep it worried away.
But I was just curious regarding how that route acquired its name.... an oxymoron or just more climber humor???
Wow oh wow, I do love watching them climb... just don't get to do it often enough to satisfy me. I never knew such a world (sport) existed until he was initiated into it. I appreciate the passion and ultimate dedication climbing beguiles one into yielding to it.... so much of what happens externally and internally is almost beyond words... mystical in so many ways.
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Mom
Social climber
So Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 30, 2005 - 07:13pm PT
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Cintune - well from reading the story so named, it would certainly seem that the story is appropriately named and perhaps the route too? Interesting story for a climb during Halloween season. Just asked #4 if she has read H.P. Lovecraft and she informs me that HP is an 'amazing' author - (she also owns every Stephen King work)... guess I was born too late or too soon... and too busy making a living and raising children to read much ... we had our own form of horror with sibling rivilary. Thank you for the information... how many other routes are named for horror stories...??
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Link
Trad climber
Yosemite, CA
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Oct 30, 2005 - 07:52pm PT
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"Mom,"
I talked to "son" yesterday about the route, and I saw what was probably them up a few pitches on the wall today (from the meadow). They'll have a blast; fun route, well within their abilities.
-Link
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WBraun
climber
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Oct 30, 2005 - 07:57pm PT
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Lurking Fear Jim Pettigrew and Dave Bircheff first ascent in 76.
Pettigrew named the route Lurking fear for the fear of the unknown.
It was his first new route on El Cap.
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Roger Breedlove
Trad climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Oct 30, 2005 - 08:06pm PT
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Hey Werner,
I thought it was Phil who did 'Lurking Fear' with Pettigrew. I know that the Meyers Guides say it was Dave—you were around, I am sure you would know?
Anyway both Bircheffs were big fans of off beat literature (H.P. Lovecraft for one), and had funny, but sort of down beat views of life, love, and happiness. Phil used to argue that there was no evidence of human progress--just new stuff; no improvement in the human condition.
One of Phil's greatest sayings, "All I want is a new life and a day without fear." was captured in a Sheridan Anderson cartoon that I have. I still quote him. It works in any culture.
Anyway, "Lurking Fear" is a great route name. And it fits with Bircheff and Pettigrew.
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WBraun
climber
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Oct 30, 2005 - 08:09pm PT
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Sh-it Roger I never thought about that and I was there when they went up there I even went to the base with those guys.
Now you got me all confused :-)
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Roger Breedlove
Trad climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Oct 30, 2005 - 08:23pm PT
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Hey Werner, you are supposed to remember this stuff.
Dave was the taller of the two; Phil was stockier. Phil was older by a year or so. Phil also carved stone. Like that's going to help!!!
Remember when Phil brought that huge chunk of marble up to the Meadows and carved all summer. I asked him if I could take a swing. He was very nervous, but I convinced him that I had artistic experience and would not crack it. Luckily, I didn't--my artistic experience lived another day.
I have heard that he made something of a career of his art.
So anyway, how can we find out who was with Pettigrew?
Roger
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WBraun
climber
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Oct 30, 2005 - 08:31pm PT
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Pettigrew is over in Mammoth Lakes. But I don't know his number Roger. Last time I saw Jim, me and Kauk were over there (Mammoth) doing a Ford commercial. We see him and go over to his house and he starts talking about some routes he wants to do in the Valley.
The wife chimes in from the kitchen and says "Jimmy your climbing days are over". Me and Kauk high tail it outa there as fast as we could.
Roger I think you can relate to that?
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Roger Breedlove
Trad climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Oct 30, 2005 - 08:33pm PT
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"Deep down, all of us are married to the same women."
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WBraun
climber
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Oct 30, 2005 - 08:43pm PT
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He he he You got that right!
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James
Social climber
My Subconcious
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Oct 30, 2005 - 09:48pm PT
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I've heard it referred to as Smirking Queer.
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Mom
Social climber
So Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 30, 2005 - 09:59pm PT
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Werner & Roger - you have amazing recollection/memory ... to remember who did the first ascent and in what year on so many routes -- leaves me speechless... (would make some men very happy to have a female speechless)
Re: "Deep down, all of us are married to the same women."
I hope you are not all married to the same woman... Hope that you are all married to a woman who wants her mate to be all he wants to be. Respecting and encouraging the passion activity of one's mate, in this case climbing and all the activities & people it encompasses, is part of what true love does in any relationship. 'He was doing it when you married him; just because you're married, what's different now?' This refers to legal activities only.
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Watusi
Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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Oct 30, 2005 - 10:45pm PT
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Gosh Werner and Roger, I still see Phil here in Josh some times, he's a long time friend of Alan Bartlett...I'll ask him!
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Roger Breedlove
Trad climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Oct 30, 2005 - 10:48pm PT
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Mom: My line is a joke. As you say, true love is built on wanting the best for your mate, and helping him or her achieve it.
I use that line in those moments where three or four couples are carrying on those normal, free ranging conversations, and one of the women will make a comment that defines the edges where long married couples meet. Usually, the women's comment has as at its base a (standard) complaint about her man, always in good sprits, and meant to be shared because it is a shared sentiment.
The guys can all hear the ring of truth (loudly) and are for the moment reduced to their lame maleness.
I wait for a few beats, and quietly, sadly, say, "At times like these, all the guys realize that deep down, we are all married to the same women."
The women laugh, nervously, secretly knowing that they can do no better than what they got--all the men are the same (they are men for crying out loud).
And the men laugh as loud as they can stand the couch for a night, knowing that for a spilt second, their "Master of the Universe" status has been upheld.
Werner laughed. Now we have to see if he shared it with Merry.
Best, Roger
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Mom
Social climber
So Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 30, 2005 - 11:30pm PT
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Roger - and now I laugh too.... for to acknowledge that one 'can do no better' is the epitomy of the sheer & ultimate peace, passion and delight love bestows on those gifted with soul mates. Count your blessings,kiss your mate and all is well with the world. Peace and stay well.
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aldude
climber
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Oct 31, 2005 - 03:07am PT
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I talked to Phil about this route and he assured me he was indeed on the first ascent with his brother and jim. Seems the brothers squabbled and Dave neglected to include Phil's name on the FA out of spite - Phil's version of events. Whatever - It's practically a bolt ladder now and a "proud" FREECLIMB.
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426
Sport climber
Hanging Limb(yeah. it is), TN
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Oct 31, 2005 - 10:46am PT
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"It's practically a bolt ladder now and a "proud" FREECLIMB."
Actually, the original route remains~the crux freeclimbing dodges left to avoid the original ladder on P2 and goes left again below the Window Pane.
You can 5.10 A0 the 'free var.' with pretty mandatory .10...
...Or you can do the original 'bolt ladder'/Window Pane...
Much respect and kudos to the "13c slab climber crew". It's way, way out of my element and looks amazingly blank...
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salad
climber
San Diego
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Oct 31, 2005 - 12:27pm PT
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mom,
be sure and ask em bout the silverfish when they get down...
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Mom
Social climber
So Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 31, 2005 - 09:16pm PT
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Salad - you gotta be kidding --- silverfish? out of doors?? this isn't like snipe hunting, is it?
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426
Sport climber
Owsley County (yeah it is), KY
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Oct 31, 2005 - 09:41pm PT
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No...first, a hideous sound, then truly... a 'lurking' fear.
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BeBe
Sport climber
Phoenix
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Mom-
Glad someone who loves her kids & their sense of adventure & nature on this site.
I wanted to take my niece & nephew climbing in J-Tree over the Thanksgiving Holidays. I thought the big issue would be taking them during a 'family' event.
Oh no. The kids are too young. My niece is 16 yrs. old & my nephew is 13. They have been all over the state bouldering with me, and doing small climbs around the base of other, bigger climbs without any incident. (And, if there were a problem, I am a registered nurse.)
Yes, They are my brothers kids. I know that. And I know I am tranferring here, a bit.
But, how young is too young?
I mean, really, they could be injured more on the way to school.
This also comes from a woman who hitch-hiked her way to J-Tree, alone, Easter 1995, at age 15. And it was the very same brother who dropped me off on the highway to hitch!
Let the slaughter & slander begin!
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Mom
Social climber
So Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 2, 2005 - 02:50am PT
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BeBe - gosh, any of my daughters at the age of 16 would have been more than anxious to go the JT ANYTIME!! with all the guys to look at; my son at age 13 would have wanted to prove that he could DO IT as well as any of the locals... Did you ask your brother to come along? and make it an entire family event? and that you'd get him up a wall too? How young is too young? I couldn't say... but I always figured when my children were teens, the best thing I could do was keep them busy during the day either surfing, swimming, or skiing so that they would be too tired at night to do anything but go to sleep. When they hit about 18 years old they figure out how to conserve enough energy to sneak out and do whatever .... Easter 1996 my 15 year old daughter and 18 year old son and a slew of others kids wore out the days climbing and partying at JT - and not all of us got very far 'up' the wall... Don't take it personally; just ask again; your heart is in the right place.
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Mom
Social climber
So Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 4, 2005 - 09:24pm PT
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Salad -- talked to son this morning... the weather got pissy and colder than anticipated, so called it fair after three days on the route. Asked him about the 'silverfish'... he laughed and asked how I knew about 'silverfish'. Told him about your comment/request... Son told me to tell you, Salad, that the silverfish were there a plenty, as well as many frogs and birds... in fact it was probably the most 'animalistic' route he's ever done on El Cap'. From our discussion, believe the hybrid forms of the silverfish are capable of carrying a stuff bag or two on the wall... perhaps the makings the new Yosemeite sherpas...
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