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Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 16, 2005 - 03:49pm PT
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Thie story from Climbing.com; http://climbing.com/news/favresselappat/
written by Chris Van Leuven
Belgian Nicolas Favresse has free-climbed a major new route in Yosemite Valley without any new fixed protection. Favresse, 25, worked for a month on L’Appât (VI 5.13a), the first free route up a big wall about 200 feet right of Yosemite Falls. (L’Appât means the “bait” or “lure” in French.) Favresse climbed the route all free on September 9, leading every pitch.
L’Appât consists of 12 long pitches with all natural anchors, except for two bolted belays on aid climbs crossed by the new line. Favresse did not add any fixed gear, and thus the protection is at times rather spicy. The first five pitches are around 5.10, and as the face steepens the difficulty increases, with pitches of 5.12d, 5.12b, 5.12c, 5.12d, 5.11b, 5.13a/b and 5.10a. The route combines crack and face climbing with some hard, runout face and stemming sections, sometimes with old fixed copperheads for pro. While working on the route, Favresse took 30-foot whippers onto small copperheads, terrifying his belayer.
This was the second trip to the Valley for Favresse, who has redpointed 5.14d and onsighted 5.13d in Europe. Last fall, in a month-long trip, Favresse and his friend Seán Villanueva quickly learned how to trad climb on The Rostrum, Astroman and The Crucifix, and then they redpointed Free Rider on El Cap (VI 5.12d), onsighting 35 of the 36 pitches.
Favresse said completing his new climb “felt really good! This experience taught me a lot and opened my eyes to the huge potential for new extreme long routes.
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Spinmaster K-Rove
Trad climber
Stuck Under the Kor Roof
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Sep 16, 2005 - 03:50pm PT
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Savagery!!!
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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Sep 16, 2005 - 04:28pm PT
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Great jobs, guys! And thanks for not drilling on any of the routes up there! It’s nice to see an example of good style and respect for existing routes in this day and age. I can’t believe that my fixed heads from 6 years ago held whippers! Damn! Free climbing with old fixed heads for pro? Now that’s proud!
Let’s see a topo!
(ps – it’s “Yosemite Falls Wall”… We don’t say the El Cap, do we Mr. Guidebook Author? And while we’re at it, is it Ribbon Fall Wall or Ribbon Falls Wall? Or is it Ribbon Falls Amphitheater?)
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yo
climber
NOT Fresno
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Sep 16, 2005 - 04:33pm PT
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Speaking of which, who's seen the Gallery in the new Climbing? The bald climber from Wyoming who will remain nameless pulling WDD on shiny fatties.
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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Sep 16, 2005 - 04:35pm PT
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F the mags.
Chop the bolts.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Sep 16, 2005 - 04:35pm PT
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Don't you mean "Wet Lycra Nightmare?" hahahahha
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billygoat
climber
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Sep 16, 2005 - 08:54pm PT
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The Wet Denim bolts in the photo are out of reach of the aid line. However, there are ones lower that are not out of reach. It should be noted, that clipping those bolts could very well direct the aid climbers fall towards a block at the base of the seam, thus making the danger worse. Let's also take note of the fact that Skinner has not redpointed that route in a single push.
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WBraun
climber
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Sep 16, 2005 - 09:00pm PT
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"Favresse took 30-foot whippers onto small copperheads"
Yikes! What happens when the small copperhead fails?
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Sep 18, 2005 - 03:58am PT
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a new free route with no new bolts is way more prowd then one with added bolts, IMHO. (maybe that is pretty obvious to most everyone else also, but stating the obvious is my specialty)
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Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
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proudest thing i've read in a while. we're in the 21 century now, good to see people pushing more than their crimp strength.
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rockermike
Mountain climber
Berkeley
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When the head blows you call Werner who sallies up smoking cigarettes and pulling 5.12s all day ...
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Rhodo-Router
Trad climber
Otto, NC
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Where does it go? What's it cross?
Proud accomplishment-- it's enough too make one stop slandering the French.
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flamer
Trad climber
denver
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Hey rodo..did we read the same thing....he's Belgian!!
We can still tlak plenty of trash on those damn frogs......plus they've been climbing harder than us for years and that hasn't stopped us...f*#king french.
josh
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Rhodo-Router
Trad climber
Otto, NC
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Obviously all Belgian climbers are travellers, that place is the east Texas of Europe, topologically speaking. My bad.
I did just run into, get this,
French wide-crack climbers in Vedauwoo.
Asking us where they could get hold of more big cams...
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| Messages 1 - 15 of total 15 in this topic |
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