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| Messages 1 - 8 of total 8 in this topic |
climberweenie
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 12, 2005 - 03:22pm PT
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Lately I've been doing the circuit of 5.9ish longish routes in yosemite. I backed down on 2nd pitch of E butt El Cap yesterday.
I couldn't pull the 10b face move or two after 2 healthy falls trying (re-shaped a #4 brassy that yanked on first fall, nut over belayers head held both times). Could have climbed higher up the crack and pendulumed right to get the new crack system, but want to do the real route when I do it. That face sequence is burned in my brain for a future attempt.
There is a bolt hole (no bolt) in the middle of the couple move face section. If this bolt was there, it would have trivialized the crux (made the climb 5.9A0). I am glad the bolt is not there, because I'll feel more proud when I get it, and there's no convenient cheater way to get past it.
And it motivated me to explore the face climbing opportunities over at glacier apron (some nice stuff over there! very different!)
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Rhodo-Router
Trad climber
Otto, NC
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Jun 12, 2005 - 05:41pm PT
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It's good to hear that. Training until you're ready for something is a dying art, it seems like.
On the other hand, there's a lot of things I waited to get on until they were totally anticlimactic, foregone conclusions. It's ok to get in over your head a little from time to time.
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Khun Duen Baad
climber
Retirement
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Jun 12, 2005 - 05:46pm PT
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You ain't no weenie, bro. You're an up-and-coming bad ass and will soon realize your vast potential.
I chopped that greatly offensive bolt (placed by Walt Shipley, self-admittedly, such that his clients could pull up it).
Apologies for the visible hole; I didn't have any epoxy and was soloing around with a crowbar at the time....
Keep it up.
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Brutus of Wyde
climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
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Jun 12, 2005 - 06:29pm PT
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"Could have climbed higher up the crack and pendulumed right to get the new crack system, but want to do the real route when I do it."
Huh?
The "real route" did involve a penji from higher in the left crack system. As well as some aid through a section that has long since fallen off.
Brutus
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climberweenie
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 12, 2005 - 11:57pm PT
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Thanks for the praise folks! Good day for an ego boost.
Wyde, when I say "real" I must admit I'm talking "supertopo", and I'm trying to do it the "real free". My history knowledge is spotty at best (limited mostly to what I absorb from the '87 guide book).
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Rhodo-Router
Trad climber
Otto, NC
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Jun 13, 2005 - 12:04pm PT
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Seems like there's a lot of possibilities for variations on that line, like the arete below the OW. Know anything about these Brutus?
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GAZ
climber
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Jun 13, 2005 - 03:58pm PT
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Speaking of E Butt of El Cap...isn't it wet from Horsetail Falls?
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jun 14, 2005 - 02:03am PT
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I thought Walt had place a bolt on the face pitch of the East Butt of Middle so his clients wouldn't swing if they fell on the 5.7 move. Not sure though. Why would clients need a bolt on El Cap?
Anyway, for many, many years there was a fixed pin (and I believe the FA party had left a fixed pin) at the crux move of the East Butt of El Cap. Finally, it either fell out or was removed. It actually made the move easier to have no pin since you could use the scar.
Somebody placed a bolt next to where the fixed pin used to be and I heard that Steck even approved of it. Check out the story at
http://tinyurl.com/abse5
Then somebody chopped the bolt and you just have to fiddle with pro to do it. Cheating is still easy enough if you care to french or penji.
That's the history that I know. Is it a retro-bolt, retro-inconvenient, or just stuff happening? It is a typical bolt saga story, where everybody has part of the story but not a whole picture.
PS That's a tricky move. I finally wired it after many years!
Peace
Karl
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| Messages 1 - 8 of total 8 in this topic |
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