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Michael Hjorth
Trad climber
Copenhagen, Denmark
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Mar 15, 2009 - 10:52am PT
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Edwind Drummond is a splendid writer and his book ”A Dream of White Horses” (London 1987) is one of my favorites. 40-45 short stories and poems. He’s not always a likeable guy and has a somewhat inflated ego - to be noticed in his account of a badly planned Makalu expediton (A Grace Period) and from his rescue from NA Wall (and stalking of R.R.)
I specially love his poem/prose from “Great Wall”, a second ascent after Pete Crew (who is watching him) of this Cloggy-classic:
“AfivefootarmsuspensionbrigingyourlifeinyourhandathreefootarmIdon’thavetofalloffSolestickonicenice. Made it, snug as a nut, my diogt in the peg. While I’m not-resting at the peg he tells me he used it. I’m getting to like him.”
RE. Trollwall: My most overwhelming climbing memory. Not Drummonds Arch Wall exactly, but still. We started on Swedish Route, but due to ice in the cracks shifted to old Rimmond at half hight. 33 pitches, 33 hours. Refrigerator blocks fell repeatedly past us by few meters from the top overhangs. Not bothering us, but setting a special ambiance!
And his Dream of White Horses, Wales. Just nice.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 15, 2009 - 10:54am PT
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Luca,
I am a big fan of Lito's writing. Any chance that you have an english translation of the piece that you mention? Please post if it is a favorite. That's the aim of this thread....
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lucasignorelli
climber
Torino, Italy
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Mar 15, 2009 - 11:08am PT
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Here's it:
I literally know it to memory, having read it the first time while at the very impressionable age of 14, and having being haunted by it since then. If anyone knows Lito, tell him he ruined my life (no big deal, a lot of writers did!)
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lucasignorelli
climber
Torino, Italy
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Mar 15, 2009 - 11:57am PT
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Steve:
posted - see above
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 15, 2009 - 12:42pm PT
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Superb writing! Muy bien hecho, Lito!!!
Luca- thanks for the contribution. I can see why that story would resonate with you, it does with me......cosas Patagonicas.
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dmalloy
Trad climber
eastside
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Mar 15, 2009 - 01:49pm PT
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thanks, you guys, for posting this great and hard-to-find stuff.
Waaayyy back in the thread, people were discussing what was meant by "short" climbing story - I take Steve to mean something that is not a book, so Annapurna or Touching the Void are out, but some of these long magazine pieces certainly qualify.
The one I have not seen mentioned on this thread which I have really enjoyed, and have seen mentioned on other threads, is "Losar" by Voytek Kurtyka, published in Alpinist 4. I won't scan it, as it is the wrong size for a flatbed and I don't want to ruin the binding on my (precious) copy of Alpinist - but if you have not read it, next time you are at a friend's house who has the complete set of Alpinist, grab #4 and plan on settling in for 45 minutes or so.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 22, 2009 - 08:46pm PT
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Another gem from AAJ 1980. Fifty years on....and still sweet!
Bless the persistence of memory!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 26, 2009 - 10:11am PT
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Bump for Bradford!!!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2009 - 11:58pm PT
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Bump for a tale.....
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 12, 2009 - 11:16am PT
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Mountain Lit bump!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 22, 2009 - 12:57pm PT
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And another...
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Pratmaker
Trad climber
Norway
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The Arch wall route in the troll wall has now been freeclimbed in a 36 hours push by local climber Sindre Sæther, Amazing...
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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The Black Canyon with Kor - Ament - I think it's from Mountain 50, later in Games Climbers Play.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2011 - 10:02pm PT
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Literary Bump...
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Ed in a current photo by someone else
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MH2
climber
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The Jean Weber account of the Japanese ascent of Mount Alberta in 1925 as found in Chris Jones' Climbing in North America and 'A Nice Clean Break' from Games Climbers Play.
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Michael Hjorth
Trad climber
Copenhagen, Denmark
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Anders,
I suppose it's dust on your nice picture - and not one the trollspires doing a basejump from the rim! (Which happens!)
Here is one from the Narrow Slab on Rimmon, 1992:
Climber: Peter Harremoës
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Beautiful. Anything but LEB please!
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George Bell
Trad climber
Colorado
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For satire, I agree with Tami about "It's a 5.10 Mantle into Heaven". Another good one is Bob Viola's "Big-Wall Tale of Woe".
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