TR: Oski, Bear Mountain, Sedona AZ

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MisterE

Trad climber

My Inner Nut

Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 23, 2008 - 10:51pm PT

Earlier this year

This spring The Doctor and I went on a walkabout for about 5 hours looking for a new 4-pitch Climb on Bear Mountain called "Oski" - to no avail.We took a bunch of pictures and I posted a Trip report, and then I received this modification of one of the pictures in my e-mail:

With a note from Kole DeCou, one of the first ascentionists.It's a fairly new route, and he said were were probably one of the first parties to try and find it unguided. I knew exactly where it was as soon as I saw the picture - David had been within 50 feet of the anchors just before I took that picture, but we just couldn't find them, as they are a bit hidden facing away from the access point.

Present day

David and I left Flagstaff early and pulled into Basha's Supermarket in Sedona for some supplies, and as we are getting into the van, I hear yelling, and a white car speeds off, with people chasing it. The kids aren't going to catch the car, and they are yelling about damaging their car. There is a worried looking family by a car, watching the chase as we pull out.
"Let's chase 'em down, David!" I said gunning hard for the white Toyota. David rolls down the window and tells the kids were in pursuit, and we leave them on gasping on the Highway as we speed off.
This guy really wants to get away, he's gunnin' hard down 179, and cuts off suddenly on a side road. We follow, taking the corner, and see him still too far ahead, and he's got a lead foot.
"Damn, we'll never catch him!" I said, "just try and get the license plate." I floor it, and then he slows abruptly for a monster speed bump in a private community.
We roll up, get the plate and turn off and around immediately and head back. He probably didn't even know we tagged him - I am sure he knew soon enough.
The kids were standing on the Highway, and waved at us when we pulled up. David gave them the AZ plate written on a piece of our topo for Oski, and we were off again. I was pumped from the chase and a little shakey as we headed to Bear Mountain.

This approach is a doozey. About an hour to an hour and a half with four separate hills which are most of the hike, the second and the fourth are steep. Then from almost the top of the fourth hill, one cuts right to a 300-foot North-facing precipice, with a set of anchors as the only assurance there are 3 more like that within range of a 60-m rope.The cairns showing general anchor location:

And David taking the first rappel:

Everything went well, and about an hour later (we spent some time inspecting the route) we hit the dirt, in perfect conditions, probably 55-60 degrees and all-day shade. I was to take the first 2 pitches, a short 5.9 first and the crux 5.11 second pitch, then David would get the chimney-to-fists-pitch, and the final 5.10 lead up the dramatic headwall.

There's this weird start on the first pitch (5.9, 40 feet)...what does it say?
"Start in a tree..."

The second pitch (5.11, 80 feet) is techy, with the business hitting hard in the first 30 feet, then pumpy 5.10 to the anchors. Top of 1st pitch (p2 starts at roof to left):

The excellent clean second pitch:

David finishing the stellar 2nd pitch:

The third pitch (5.9, 70 feet) looked pretty full value - 3-bolt traverse to hands to chimney to fist and wide fists, but there looked like there were good features on the walls:

I mean it's only 5.9!

David leading out the traverse:

The chimneying was fun if a little run out, and the sandstone provided fine body friction.

The 4th pitch (5.10, 80 feet) is slopey slab moves (10-) to a steep headwall of amazing plated holds - 20 feet of slab, then 60 feet of perfect chips interrupted only by a perplexing blank spot below a bulge (5.10). Add to that a sustained finish - Sweet!

Me following pitch 4:

It took us about 4 hours to rap and climb, I guess they're saying it's a grade III. It is pretty heady and committing rapping in 4 pitches in Sedona on a steep wall, but what an adventure and a great hidden gem. The rock is mostly super-clean, and it is well protected, except for the trad pitch.

Hey, Kole - was ours the first "unguided" ascent? LOL!

The line:

Erik

Gear notes:

1 60 meter rope

13-15 draws, at least 5-6 long ones

Gear .75" to 4" double 3", and 1 - 3.5" useful. Leave gear at top of Pitch 2 during rappel.

Jaybro

Social climber

wuz real!

Nov 23, 2008 - 11:13pm PT

Many super heroes don't get to thwart crime and do cool climbs all in the same day.
cool stuff,
thanks.
Jay

Dwain

Trad climber

Apple Valley, California

Nov 23, 2008 - 11:34pm PT

I never get to go to COOL places like that anymore.

:(

Dwain

Brunosafari

Boulder climber

Redmond, OR

Nov 24, 2008 - 12:23am PT

¡excelente!

HighDesertDJ

Trad climber

Arid-zona

Nov 24, 2008 - 12:56am PT

Avast!

Boltgrl

Ice climber

Winslow, AZ

Nov 24, 2008 - 11:26am PT

bitchin' pants, E!

Elcapinyoazz

Social climber

Redlands

Nov 25, 2008 - 08:43pm PT

Tree climbing first pitch with cool pics bump (we did unimpeachable groping in RR Sat, which also started in a tree).

MisterE

Trad climber

One Place or Another

Topic Author's Reply - Feb 11, 2009 - 09:35am PT

Shameless bump!

survival

Big Wall climber

A Token of My Extreme

Feb 11, 2009 - 11:09am PT

Waaay cool Mr E. Good write up, good pix. Nicely done!!

Hey I thought you didn't bump your own threads....

Like I said, when you put many pix in, you feel more invested.

Hope I get to go climbing over there sometime.

Thorgon

Big Wall climber

Sedro Woolley, WA

Feb 11, 2009 - 11:20am PT

MisterE~

Top Notch! Looks like it is well worth the "Slog"!!! Way to go Crime Fighters! The wall looks well featured on the face climbing bit!

Thanks, Man,
Thor

spyork

Social climber

A prison of my own creation

Feb 11, 2009 - 12:12pm PT

Missed this when it came out. Awesome stuff!

drljefe

climber

Old Pueblo, AZ

Feb 25, 2009 - 09:06am PT

bump

Riotch

Trad climber

Kayenta, Arizona

Feb 25, 2009 - 09:24am PT

Wow, sweet Mr.E!

Isn't Sedona great - always an excellent adventure.

The high speed chase sounds like a great warm-up.

I wonder if the hit and run driver ever paid his karma?

bob

climber

Sep 4, 2009 - 08:00am PT

Did this route last weekend. Good sh#t.
1 hr approach to edge of Fay Canyon from rim of Bear Mt. Doozy is the name if you basically try and go as fast as a 22 year old. Gotta show em right? Fug. We were really worked by the time we arrived. Like a mountain highway, but instead of driving it we speed walked it with packs. Sheesh.

Rap in was weird only because of throwing ones self over the lip of an overhanging 400 ft wall is, well, intense. It gave me chills thinking of going over the edge of El Cap from the top. Always gripper. Just don't get to work up to being used to the wall.

The start was indeed a bit funky. Took the opportunity to clip the first bolt from the deadish tree then went for the boulder problem. I chose to start 6 ft to the right of the bolt and used a series of buckets, crimps and such to lurch my way up it.
In two seconds flat I was gassed, but made it. Maybe it was the large amount of beer put down the night before. Maybe not.

My buddy won the toss so he took the crux 11b? Fug, one mega reach, mega reef then pumperificus to the anchors. One mega rest in there somewhere. Again, my ego wants to say it was the beers, but whoa that's a hard 11b, though I don't sport it up so well on steep stuff. Felt like hard 11 to me. We both made it first go by the hair on our chins. (not much)

Next pitch had a cool traverse with bolts to a really nice 5.8 crack. So cool its on that wall. I'm looking back at the coolest belay on the route. Then looking down on the pitch.

Next pitch had some slab moves off the belay that I felt were harder than 10 - but my Sedona friction head doesn't exist at the moment so...........
One hell of a way to finish a climb. After the slabby moves it goes to overhanging jugs to the anchors above the lip of the overhanging wall. Really good sh#t. I think the crux of the pitch is the last move or so.

We soaked up the view, the last of our water and hiked out in 127 degree sunshine off of Bear Mt.

Overall a great experience. Awesome to be climbing in Sedona again. Gotta get the friction down on the sand shtuff!
We found the route very well protected. I don't get the runout description of the crack. Did you not have a 4?
Nice job everybody, especially for the first ascent team! Please give us more like it.
Bob J.

drljefe

climber

Old Pueblo, AZ

Sep 4, 2009 - 10:57am PT

Way to put the cherry on top of an already sick TR, BobJ!
Nice going.

drljefe

climber

Old Pueblo, AZ

Sep 4, 2009 - 05:41pm PT

bump

MisterE

Trad climber

Canoga Bark! CA

Topic Author's Reply - Sep 6, 2009 - 10:19am PT

Yeah, we didn't bring a #4, so it felt a little run-out. I bet you could bring one and leave it at the anchor before the chimney pitch.

Glad to hear you thought it was harder, too. Good job on the send!