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Dirka
Trad climber
SF
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 20, 2008 - 06:10pm PT
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November Loaf?
Dirka and Berto decide to hit up the loaf one fine day in November. Making sure to bring along plenty of warmies for those late fall temps. Only they should have brought shorts and more beer/water since they stepped into an Indian summer.
Instead of chasing the sun, we seek out the shade for some sweat relief. I have wanted to do Scheister 5.7 for a while, since it goes to the South Summit. Rob is readily talked into the route since it is in full shade.
In an attempt to bring back the fine art of Hex’iry, I convince Bert to place one. After a couple of aborted attempts he fires in a perfect #3. He he he.
It smoothes out to some flared goodness towards the top. A delicious start to the day.
The second pitch is a romp to a 30-foot/slightly physical honest 5.7 layback. Here I am giggling at a perfect #6 hex placement.
The bolt ladder pitch to the summit reads: A0 or 10a mantel. Berto goes for it and proceeds to tell me in very colorful language just how there is “F@#$$$%%^^&&&*^%$$&^$#&^%%*&^(%$%* Way that this is 10A!!!!!!!!!!” He lowers down and I give it a go. I get to the high point and see that there truly are no holds to the mantle and opt for the classic Beached Whale technique (at this point my sunglasses take a ride into oblivion). It works! I agree with berto, it feels more like 10d/11a. But we make it!
Here we both take turns looking a long way down.
We rap the route in 3 pitches with a 60m. Set up a TR on Blue Velvet 10c. Berto’s feet skid and more curses ensue, but then he Zen’s out and fires the remainder with ease. I give a go and have a blast as well.
Oak has some playtime against a vicious stick.
Next up, we hit up a favorite The Fracture 10d finger crack. Berto hits it and takes a couple of whips. I give it a go and burn way to much gas placing needless fear gear, but tough it out for the send. Rob wants another go and fires it!
We round out the day with Pony Express 5.8. I belay as Rob easily floats the climb and the sun sets. He cleans and I lead via headlamp, which is fun in itself. It was a great day and in the spirit of the season we thought that some Panda Express was in order.
-Dirka
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nutjob
Stoked OW climber
San Jose, CA
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Nov 20, 2008 - 06:13pm PT
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I might need to check this place out more seriously at some point. Nice report!
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Mav
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Nov 20, 2008 - 07:01pm PT
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I think I see my #4 on Rob's harness!
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Crimpergirl
Social climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Nov 20, 2008 - 07:17pm PT
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Very cool. Sounds like a lot of fun. Glad to hear other colorful language out there besides my own. :)
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Nov 20, 2008 - 07:54pm PT
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I always though Sugarloaf was a great cliff.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Nov 20, 2008 - 08:00pm PT
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Never been, always pass it and go to the Spires/Leap.
I need to check it out, it looks awesome.
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Kupandamingi
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Nov 20, 2008 - 09:47pm PT
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Was out there myself a week or so a go in the warm weather. Sugarloaf may have less lines than the leap (perhaps the same as the spires), but the list of classic, three star yosemite like climbs can't be beat - dominion, the fracture, taurus, scheister, poney express, hyperspace, fingerlock on Sugar bun. I also did blue velvet for the first time in a few years when we were out last week - can't beat it for sustained fun face climbing (make that move now baby on sugarbun also fun). Some of the new bolted lines on more obscure rocks are semi-manufactured and a detraction from the overall feel of the place, but easily ignorable.
Some photos to further entice
Taurus http://imglarge.mountainproject.com/106046227_efe54e.jpg
Fracture http://imglarge.mountainproject.com/105945550_94b0ca.jpg
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Dirka
Trad climber
SF
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 21, 2008 - 03:13am PT
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Those are some sweet pics. Thanks!
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jbar
Mountain climber
Inside my head
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Nov 21, 2008 - 03:29am PT
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Thanks for the pics. The fracture looks fun. I'd like to give it a go. I'd prolly sew it up pretty good with "fear gear" too. lol Way to crush it!
Edit: Hey Kupandamingi did you see that bear sneaking up on you?!
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona, Spain
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Nov 21, 2008 - 03:49am PT
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Jesus! When did the place burn up? Looks like Phantom Spires did back in the late 80s. By the way, how's the forest doing at the Spires, are they Phantom again?
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Lissiehoya
climber
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Nov 23, 2008 - 07:28pm PT
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That looks like a lot of fun. When are we going?
BTW, you totally did not send me a link to this via email. :( I had to search for it myself.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Nov 23, 2008 - 09:33pm PT
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hey there dirka... wow, thanks for this neat share... say, my computer is downloading slowly, but what i've seen so far, looks great....
thanks again... and for sharing links, too...
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llk
climber
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Nov 23, 2008 - 09:51pm PT
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just about squeezed a loaf, lookin' ta the pics Dirka, good job!
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Nov 23, 2008 - 11:28pm PT
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Neat! Just don't give Crimpie too much competition with the
explicatives!!!
:-)
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Nov 24, 2008 - 12:29am PT
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Hi dirka,
I learned to climb at Sugarloaf. I love that place!
Thanks for the report. Did you put the #11 hex in the chimney of Schiester? Fits perfectly.
See ya,
Zander
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| Messages 1 - 15 of total 15 in this topic |
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