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Jim E
climber
Mountain Road
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 13, 2008 - 08:26pm PT
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Last weekend while climbing Thin Air on Cathedral Ledge with a student I got to thinking about the tree below the 3 bolt ledge (now the 'no' bolt ledge thanks to local ethics battles - there is now, however, a LinkCam that will be there 'til the cliff falls down).
I remember the first time I climbed the route back in 1980. I was 16, had just gotten my drivers license, and just read the rope soloing chapter of Advanced Rock Craft. I had a fantastic adventure that I was fortunate enough to have survived, but that's another story.
The tree back in 1980 was no thicker than my wrist. Today it's the size of my thigh and then some. Virtually everyone that climbs the route comes in contact with it, some more than others. Thin Air is probably THE most climbed trad route in New England.
In thinking about the tree I was amazed that it has lasted all these years on a route with such high traffic. Trees on other climbs on Cathedral have not faired so well and have fallen in various manners.
The tree is the one to the left of Cowpoke.
photo poached from a Chiloe post.
Come to think of it, I'm not sure what species of tree it is. Pretty shameful considering the number of times I've climbed the root... er, ah... route. If I had to guess I'd say it was ash.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Sep 13, 2008 - 09:04pm PT
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I remember doing it with my long time NE climbing buddy Lawrence, July 1988 is the notation in my book. I think I did it several times... however...
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perswig
climber
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Sep 14, 2008 - 05:29am PT
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"The tree is the one to the left of Cowpoke."
Ten minutes of my life wasted looking for a route description of something new going through Missing Link overlaps before realizing Cowpoke's the dude in the pic. Sigh.
Worth it, though, to find the Farewell to Summer thread after so much malarky recently.
(I'd guess ash, too)
Dale
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sandstone conglomerate
climber
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Sep 14, 2008 - 08:27am PT
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thin air, brings back memories. got any more pics? would love to see them if possible...
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Sep 14, 2008 - 10:23am PT
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Wot's this, a climbing thread?
Yeah perswig, the photo above is sometimes-Wyomingite Cowpoke goin' for it on the oddly named
Lancelot Link, Secret Chimp.
Here's another one from that same day showing the Thin Air tree Jim appreciates, apparently
thriving in its high-traffic home. It's above the head of Cowpoke, who's running out on the sharp
end again (Freedom/Windfall).
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Sep 14, 2008 - 10:51am PT
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Not Jim's tree, but in the spirit of appreciation for a summer day on Cathedral:
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Jim E
climber
Mountain Road
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 14, 2008 - 10:56am PT
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Geez, Larry, is that the same rancid water bottle you've been carrying around since... forever?
Sorry about the 'rancid' comment but I remember sipping from that thing on occasion and almost gagging. Thankful for the thirst quencher but oh the aftertaste.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Sep 14, 2008 - 11:05am PT
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Yup, I've had that bottle since the olde days of hot summer climbing in Eldo.
The rancid comes and goes, though. Now that the bottle lives indoors where Leslie notices it,
instead of staying in the trunk of my car for 6 months, I wash it out now and then.
So of course it smells sweet!
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Sep 14, 2008 - 11:44am PT
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Jim, it looks like I may actually be able to climb a few things in spite of the illness. Finally after three years, I have a chemo treatment that is slowing the disease and NOT making me unable to function.
So I REALLY need a set of doubles specifically for rock-- that is, TOUGH sheath, real fall capacity, soft catch, and oh, say, about 8.5 mm diam and 60 meters long. Um, I love dry coated ropes too, and if you want to go all out, bi-pattern changing at the middle would be nice, but not really that big a deal.
Are you going to make em or not? OR, have you already made em and I just don't know?
I'm really serious about this. I want to buy YOUR ropes.
The life you save might be mine or Stegg's, LOL.
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cowpoke
climber
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Sep 14, 2008 - 11:54am PT
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oh boy, this thread gave me two good belly laughs. first, perswig looking for the new route "cowpoke." then, Jim recognizing the water bottle -- I love that little guy, rancid 'n all.
and, back to the thread topic: following some swinging and monkeying around (after the top pic was taken), Chiloe was left with a grunge-fest lead in which the only "holds" were roots and globs of mud.
on a more asthetic note, there are a few route defining roots at Cathedral. you know, those beauties that look like pull-up bars...perfectly worn from years of grabbin'.
anyone got pics of some of the famous and infamous trees now gone such as the "Refuse tree?"
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perswig
climber
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Sep 14, 2008 - 07:37pm PT
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Oddly, I don't think too much about trees I'm climbing past in summer, but I can remember damn near every twig 4mm and over I've ever tied off and clipped with a screamer on ice, thanking the gods for this one piece of "solid" pro as I sketch and shake.
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TrundleBum
Trad climber
Las Vegas
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Sep 16, 2008 - 04:25pm PT
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I saw Chiloe's post/pic and it took me a while to figure out where the route was.
After a bit I realized it was the 'Missing link' overlaps area of the Ledge. What threw me off was the size of the tree. Last time I saw it, it was a small sapling which I did not expect to last.
So regarding trees on crags, yes the Royal Arches tree has been long gone...
Does the tree on Refuse still stand ?
How about the tree in the second to last Lft facing corner) pitch of Diedre still grow out of the crack ?
( I have a picture of J.Mallory leading past the tree back in the late 70's but I don't feel like dredging it up)
Ok not a tree, but back to Thin Air, is the large lay back flake above the 'Crows nest' belay ledge still hanging in there ?
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Sep 16, 2008 - 05:22pm PT
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TB, that route Cowpoke is leading in my top post is Lancelot Link, Secret Chimp (5.10b).
From where he is, Missing Link heads out left, while LLSC steps right, then up through
the main overhangs.
And the tree on Diedre, that's one I thought of too. I've sure laybacked it a few times.
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drc
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Sep 16, 2008 - 05:31pm PT
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The tree on Diedre was still there as of Sep. 2006. Looked quite healthy so I'd be surprised if it were gone.
I think it's a close contest between Thin Air and Whitney-Gilman for being THE most climbed route in New England.
I have fond memories of climbing in NH (on the one out of 10 weekends when it doesn't rain, not too hot, don't have a paper due on Monay, etc), but man I glad to have Yos as my weekend destination.
That said, I feel that northeastern climbing definitely builds character. The mere necessity of having to jostle with the entire population of Greater Boston for one of a handful of moderate routes instills in one the idea of what a true "alpine start" should be. You think glacier polish is slick? Try the graffiti paint at Quincy Quarry. And freezing your gonads off while having toaster sized blocks of ice fall on your head all winter long takes true dedication.
But that one perfect day when the leaves are turning makes it all worth it I guess.
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TrundleBum
Trad climber
Las Vegas
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Sep 16, 2008 - 07:26pm PT
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Tom Callaghan a Boston area climber told me a horrifying story about how he vented anger upon toping out @ Quincy only to find to young lads with their backs to the cliff as they finnished off cracking the lids on the dozen or so cans of house paint they schlepped up there.
Well horrifying for the young lad he got his hands on any way !
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TrundleBum
Trad climber
Las Vegas
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Sep 16, 2008 - 07:44pm PT
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Ahhh I had the thing scanned:
Diedre say about 78'
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Jim E
climber
Mountain Road
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 16, 2008 - 08:20pm PT
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I don't have my guide book handy to scan it but there's a pic of Women in Love with the tree still there. There is virtually no trace of it today.
I'll try to dig up the book but I'm sure someone already has it scanned.
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Roman
Trad climber
Boston
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Sep 17, 2008 - 10:55am PT
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TB, that route Cowpoke is leading in my top post is Lancelot Link, Secret Chimp (5.10b).
From where he is, Missing Link heads out left, while LLSC steps right, then up through
the main overhangs.
I was gonna say... I DO NOT remember going up those overhangs last time I climbed Thin Air !
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Sep 17, 2008 - 12:11pm PT
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ahhh, fall days in north conway. sweaters in the shade, cool dry days, bolting for bacon and eggs and coffee in the morning, kancajingus highway fall colors on the drive to sundown ledge. thanks for the topic, so many great memories.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Sep 17, 2008 - 12:55pm PT
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kancajingus highway fall colors on the drive to sundown ledge
Here we go, the beginning of kancajingus fall colors, from Sundown's far cliff last year.
(Tree appreciation on topic!)
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