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elcap-pics
climber
Crestline CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 22, 2008 - 09:40pm PT
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Break out your jackets, gloves and a warm hat... we are living the varied weather patterns of Yosemite. The night was cold and the day was pretty chilly too. Funny how I almost died just a few days ago in the heat and today folks were bailing from the Captain because they were too cold. Let that be a lesson to you. Be ready for anything, at all times. It was really windy in the valley today and at the bridge too as the wind blew from the east as it rarely does here. I got down to the Bridge around 10:30 and did a sweep of the face to see who was up and who was down. So without further delay here it comes to you straight from Eric's, the construction foreman, pickup truck. The road opens at noon tomorrow.. let the traffic jam begin!
Zodiac: The free climbing Aussey brothers Lee and Ben Cossey were seen this day climbing the first 5 pitches of the Free Zodiac variation. Nothing fixed, nothing previewed, no rapping in, no jugging out, no preplaced gear. High standards these guys bring to the Valley from their native Australia... sort of puts our locals to shame and serves notice things could be different if the local talent adopted that style. Which BTW was taken from the early climbers in this valley. The Ausseys didn't invent it you know. Bivy at the top of 5 tonight.
Steve's ropes still drape the route up to 6.
Lost in America: The Belgians were seen on ZM where LA comes into it. They could be off tonight or really close. They climbed confidently the whole way and were a pleasure to watch.
Trip: I saw the "red shirt team" finish the last corner late today and assume that they are off the route as I write this. They did a good job and will get some nice pics too. Red rules!!!
ElNino: A team is poised to give this route a go in the next couple of days as they have mostly finished hauling loads.
Sea of Dreams: I saw the Curry Village local climbing team of Josh and Ian working higher on the route today. Josh had a nice colorful shirt on and Ian was sporting a sexy floral print which gave the a pink cast to his upper torso.. very modern and courageous for this Robert Redford look a like! Just love that pink Ian!! They may have blasted now as Josh's dad was here and left I think. Smooth sailing swabbies!!
NA Wall: Saw the team I let slide by until the traversing pitches to the black dihedral, climb out the right side of the cyclopse eye this morning and onto the igloo later as I left.
Don't know who they are.
Lower down the party crew of 5 wisely bailed before even getting on the climb as they realized that time constraints would soon halt the climb anyway. They are shortening the partying by doing a much shorter route. I am sure we will hear about them later!
Saw Double E wandering around up there somewhere at the base ... I know that guy is up to something.. my spies are on it and is only a matter of time until I get this whole thing sorted out.
South Seas to Pacific Ocean: Our "local Canadian" PTPP stopped by the bridge with his partner, Mark, on the march to this classic Eastside start to the PO. Porters have been engaged, women, children, pets have been seen scurrying for cover. A comedown in difficulty for this captain of the Captain, rumor has it that he is just looking for a little fun for a change. Always a good reason in my book!
New Dawn Girls Team: Saw the ladies heading for the top of that long route this afternoon. They were on the last pitch as I departed the area at 4pm. Another feather in this teams headdress.
New Dawn Solo: Where did this lad go? I was absent yesterday and he slipped away... but where?
Nose: I arrived to find 4 guys bailing from dolt tower with their ropes blowing straight sideways to the west. They looked cold. Higher the American Alpine club belay testing team were seen crossing into the grey bands with the massive assortment of bags and ledges still intact. You go boys!!
Above them what appeared to be a NIAD team was blowing by camp 5 early in the afternoon and hustling on up in cold and windy conditions high on the face. Around 1 I saw a team of 3 climbing the last pitch to the top. Lower down there were a couple of teams staging to sickle. It was cold up there today folks so if you have a mind to go then take the warm, windproof stuff.
Salathe: A rumored SIAD team was seen bailing from the top of the Ear early in the day with a rapid and orderly retreat. They stopped by the Bridge to chatt and told of wind and cold. The climbing they did was fast and efficient. Warmer weather will return lads and I am sure you will too.
A team was seen coming down toward ECS in the morning... maybe stashers for FR.
Higher up my British friends John and Rob were seen crammed onto Sous le toit ledge with another team who led off toward the roof first. I left as the leading group was half up the headwall and the Britts were at the start of the Roof pitch... better hurry lads or you will have a cold miserable night out in the open.
Out West: Don't know a thing about that place.
In other news: The Aussies had a contingent at the bridge watching Lee and Ben give the free zodiac a go. Included was Lee's fiance Amanda who was voted "Queen of the Bridge" today. The regulars were here from time to time and Nicki hung out all day resting for his push up to half dome where he is set to solo the Queen of Spades, a difficult route with very few ascents last climbed 15 years ago... needless to say the lad isn't counting on much fixed gear!! Double E and partner, Pete and friend, the Party Crew, and many more came and went all day. Beers seemed to be growing right out of the bridge deck and many were held in reserve in the BB's. All in all it was a blustery day but nice in the sun.
I have finished and posted the trip report on our Lurking Fear climb last week and urge all of you to read it... if bored then skip to the last 5 paragraphs and pay attention to the lessons presented as they could save your hide some day. Stormy weather predicted for the weekend so plan ahead.
So that's the way it is at the center of adventureland here in Yosemite for this the 22nd of May 2008. Stay safe.
Signing off for now
Tom Evans
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bigz
Social climber
wisconsin
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May 22, 2008 - 10:19pm PT
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Red Rules! Got the call around 7pm. They are coolin it on top tonite. Shack - thanks for the great pics.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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May 22, 2008 - 11:33pm PT
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RE: Zodiac,
Steve who and why does he have rope fixed to p6? Seiging the Zod?
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yo
climber
I drink your milkshake!
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May 22, 2008 - 11:50pm PT
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bump
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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May 23, 2008 - 12:06am PT
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I wish to assure you that the preposterous myth is true.
I know that in the past, I have been tarred with the epithet, "Pitch A Day Pete". Nothing could be further from the truth. In fact, we have accomplished a full pitch in two days, thus improving our efficiency by a full 50%. Or something. It is, like, hard to do difficult math after a glass or two of shiraz on an empty stomach, eh?
So anyway .... here we are, ready to keep on keepin' on. We might even blast, eventually. I mean, what's the rush, we're on holidays, right? And buddy's name - my partner - is Mark Winey from Minnesota. I told Tom his name, and you'd think that early in the morning he might have remembered, but, well, you know Tom, right?
So anyway - oh my gosh, I began two paragraphs the same way! - remember buddy Blake who flamed me a couple days ago? Well, we met on the bridge this morning, and he's gonna give us a hand schlepping loads tomorrow. Pretty funny, eh? If you had asked me who the least likely person I ever could have got to give us a hand would have been, well, I'm sure you get it. But it just goes to show you - what you read on McTopo is not necessarily indicative of life in the Real World. Here in the Centre of the Universe we practise reconciliation and forgiveness. We're here for a good time, not a long time, so why not try to make the best of each day?
So c'mon down to the bridge tomorrow - be there or be square.
Cheers and beers [or shiraz]
Pete [and Mark]
P.S. ARRRRRRRRRRRRRRR!!!!! We're sailing the South Seas!
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elcap-pics
climber
Crestline CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 23, 2008 - 12:18am PT
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My memory is bad because I know so much that I cant find a place to put it all... I too got flamed by Blake and now he is one of the posse at the bridge! So you are right for a change Capt. Pete. We all can be friends if we just meet face to face and share common ground. Like you and I pete... we both like your girlfriend!! Common ground? I say so!!
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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May 23, 2008 - 12:26am PT
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Me too! You're only, like, a hundred yards away. Bring Mara and come by for a beer, eh? H87. Or better still, a nice glass of wine. We're still awake...
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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May 23, 2008 - 12:29am PT
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Zodiac: The free climbing Aussey brothers Lee and Ben Cossey were seen this day climbing the first 5 pitches of the Free Zodiac variation. Nothing fixed, nothing previewed, no rapping in, no jugging out, no preplaced gear. High stardards these guys bring to the Valley from their native Australia... sort of puts our locals to shame and serves notice things could be different if the local talent adopted that style. Which BTW was taken from the early climbers in this valley. The Ausseys didn't invent it you know. Bivy at the top of 5 tonight.
Steve's ropes still drape the route up to 6.
....kick a$$!!!
Go Aussie's!
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Shack
Big Wall climber
Reno NV
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May 23, 2008 - 12:42am PT
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Hey Bigz,
Jingy took those picks of your guys,
and I'll bet Tom has a bunch of them as well.
Maybe Werner will post those for Tom soon! Hahaha!
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Sebastopol, CA
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May 23, 2008 - 02:17am PT
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Hey, anyone find my navy blue Metolius Rope Bag? The wind took it yesterday evening. Would love to get it back, but finder's keepers applies, so no worries and enjoy.
Related lesson of the day: Don't throw your rope in the wind, and be careful pulling it. We simul-bailed with some very nice but epic-ing Basque NIAD candidates today after their rope shrink wrapped the stovelegs and went out west to who knows where. They cut it, were left with about 40M and were pretty much f*#ked. Several short raps brought them to where we had just decided to rap and were waiting to see how things were panning out for them, which turned out to be nearly grim. So they joined us for a nice rappel. The next party up will find some booty and part of a rope. Beware the wind.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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May 23, 2008 - 10:22am PT
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That's for sure. When you're up on the big wall, you can't let those rope ends go flying. Use your rope bags, and tie backup knots regularly as you're cleaning. If your rope blows horizontally and hangs up, you can be well and truly buggered. Lucky for those guys you guys were nearby. Otherwise what would they have done?
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elcap-pics
climber
Crestline CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 23, 2008 - 10:43am PT
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Good job Jerry... a lesson also that climbers are a brotherhood and you gave up your climb to help others in need. You are the man. This isnt Mt. Everest and we dont leave our brothers to die!!. You are not only a great photographer but a great guy too!! Thanks from all of us!!
Tom
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Sebastopol, CA
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May 23, 2008 - 11:47am PT
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Thanks Tom, but in all fairness, we didn't really give up our climb just for them. It just worked out that we were in the right place at the right time to be of assistance. These guys were top notch climbers but the wind trumped us all. We were still heading up, but when we saw them start rapping down, thought, "what the heck are we doing in this wind? Lets bail too!" Being that they weren't hauling, we thought we'd wait five minutes and let them rap through first, then their epic unfolded. They could see that we were about to bail, and we could see that they were in need of help. Through hand signals we communicated that we would wait and they would come down to us. They had a knife, so cut their rope and came down. Their only other option was to finish the route with a very short rope. It all worked out very smoothly, but could have ended poorly.
So yeah, the brotherhood of climbers is strong. We were talking about that over pizza later. In a tense moment, despite the wind and language barrier, a bond built of necessity is formed and friendships are born. We didn't do anything bold or particularly selfless. Sometimes we help strangers, other times they help us. It all balances out.
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Ottawa Doug
Social climber
Ottawa, Canada
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May 23, 2008 - 02:07pm PT
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Pics and a good story for Bigz and his kid, climbers helping climbers, and PTPP making children and pets carry his bottles of Shiraz to the base. The report is back!
Cheers,
Doug
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tadhunt
Trad climber
Sunnyvale, CA
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May 23, 2008 - 07:23pm PT
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bump
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